Topic: Other Modifications for Engine while installing Engine Kit?

[fitz101]

I will try to keep this short and based off of members responses, I will do the footwork on how to do it Of course, if you feel froggy and put information regarding what you used (gage, oil cooler, etc...) I won't complain

Bike: 1976 CB550
Engine Kit: Dynoman Hot Street 3 (592 cc)
Carbs: Keihin CR29 (do not have the engine finished yet, so I do not know what jets will be used...)
Ignition: Dyna 2000, 3 ohm mini coil and plugs
Cylinder head: Stock valve size but intake ports will be ported and exhaust as well
Location the bike will be ridden at: Columbus Indiana (about an hour north of Louisville Kentucky)
Weather during the summer: hot and humid
Intended use of the bike: Around town and beating the piss out of it on straight. Perhaps the occasional visit to the tail of the dragon. No racing or anything.

Question: With the above information, is there anything I should do while the engine is still in a hundred pieces? I have read about oil bypass, oil coolers, etc... I want to keep this thing together for a long long time and don't really feel like diving back into it again :/  I am favoring an oil cooler due to the hot/humid temps and when winter comes, I will bypass the cooler.

Has anyone ran a oil temp gage on the 550? I'm sure someone has, especially if they race it? Where did you mount the temp sensor and gage used?

If you ask why I went with that kit instead of a more streetable one? I have a street/strip mustang, lived in Detroit and if I dive into an engine, I want to make it worth it! And since it spun a main bearing, I had a reason to go into the engine 

I hope this covers enough info about my intended use to get a few answers. If not, please ask and I will respond asap! Also, I apologize if this should go back in the general forum I am assuming since I am running a performance kit, this topic was more suited for this area

Thanks,

Aron

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

What cam?

[fitz101]

DP335 from dynoman as well.
Copied from the website: This cam is designed for use with ourDP592/61rrace pistons!

Powerband from 6500 to 11,500 rpm with ported head. 

Intake .0335" valve lift
Exhaust .0339" 
Duration at .020" 
285° intake 
295° exhaust
Checked at ZERO valve lash.

Racing Valve Springs required.Adjustable Cam Sprocketrecommended

I also purchased the adjustable cam sprocket.

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[bwaller]

I have a friend that had trouble with that cam. I believe they eventually found out it was a dragrace cam, not ideal for a street bike. His were the full race 60mm pistons but better ask Buzz about it before you pull the trigger.

[fitz101]

Thanks for the information. I already purchased the kit, so I'm locked into that cam. I talked with Buzz for a bit about that package as well.

I will update once it's put together and running if I have any issues with it. If so, then we definitely know that cam is not suited for the street at all.

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[bwaller]

I should have thought about this further before replying. It wasn't the pistons at issue, but the oversize valves that tangled. He ended up with 70hp so he knows what he's doing. He felt there was too much overlap. Stock valves might make a difference.

[SF]

interested

[fitz101]

@Bwaller Yeah, I was torn on going with larger valves but the size increase was so small, I figured it wouldn't be much gain. So I opted to keep them stock and save machining cost for the valves.

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[Big Jay]

Were the seat throats opened up?

[fitz101]

I really don't understand where you are indicating. I am not doing anything to the valve seats at all (maybe lap the valve seats if anything). As far as porting and polishing, it will be throughout the entire port. Especially around the valve guide itself (I've seen people call this the football area?). I've never done cylinder head work on one of these before, but I've done plenty on small block ford heads if that makes you feel better on the inside

[bwaller]

Without any other changes, just 1mm oversize both valves and boring the throats yielded 5.5hp so that was a big deal for me. 

[fitz101]

Oh man! Unfortunately that upgrade may have to wait till next year. Dropped a pretty healthy amount of cash already on the bike this year

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[MRieck]

I really don't understand where you are indicating. I am not doing anything to the valve seats at all (maybe lap the valve seats if anything). As far as porting and polishing, it will be throughout the entire port. Especially around the valve guide itself (I've seen people call this the football area?). I've never done cylinder head work on one of these before, but I've done plenty on small block ford heads if that makes you feel better on the inside

Jay is talking about boring the seat/throat area out to 90% of the oversize valve OD. As Brent indicated he picked about 8% HP increase even with just 1mm OS intake valve.

[fitz101]

Copy! After his gain, I will do that next season. I won't be able to swing the addtional maching costs and valve cost at this time 

As far as my initial questions go, no recommendations from anyone running something like mine? Don't get me wrong, thats cool cause it's cheaper! But I figured there would be some chit chat about doing something else because of the new engine mods

[bwaller]

Well since you asked...what about the bottom end? You're installing new components for a stronger top end, have you checked all crank/rods brgs? You mentioned it turned a bearing, what caused this and what's the crank like? Unless you know for certain it's a low mileage example I'd replace chains as well. Is the camchain guide & tensioner soft enough & not cracked? The oil pump should be checked closely and measured for wear. If there was a bearing issue likely some of that material passed through the pump.

You should go through the gearbox with a fine tooth comb as well, gear bushings etc. The 550 clutch often slips under extra power. I like Honda springs and clutch components but it takes good plates/discs to manage nearly double the stock power.

[fitz101]

Well since you asked...what about the bottom end? You're installing new components for a stronger top end, have you checked all crank/rods brgs? You mentioned it turned a bearing, what caused this and what's the crank like? Unless you know for certain it's a low mileage example I'd replace chains as well. Is the camchain guide & tensioner soft enough & not cracked? The oil pump should be checked closely and measured for wear. If there was a bearing issue likely some of that material passed through the pump.

You should go through the gearbox with a fine tooth comb as well, gear bushings etc. The 550 clutch often slips under extra power. I like Honda springs and clutch components but it takes good plates/discs to manage nearly double the stock power.

Oh gosh, now I feel bad as I didn't put that in my original post, please don't beat me up too bad Got all excited about putting this bike back to gether and ordering parts! That's my excuse as to why I forgot to put in the first post 

I ordered a new cam chain (about 12,000 on the original, but since I am going in...). The guide and tensioner looked good when I tore the engine down (no cracks that I recall). The main bearing that spun did a little number on the crank and rod as well. So, I picked up a set of rods (stock off of fleabay) that have clean non damaged bearing surface The crank will be fixed by the machine shop I've used on previous engine builds. The clutch is going to be rebuilt and another plate installed (kit off of dynoman).  I am contemplating taking the gearing to Liberty Gears (Detroit based company that builds drag transmissions) and having them polished and cyrogenically froze (yeah, might as well cause it sounds cool too! and it makes them stronger..bwhahaha). The bottom end will receive new bearings across the board as well.

I will take note on the oil pump for inspection too! The root cause of it spinning the bearing was not determined. I have a sneaky suspicion that it was caused by a faulty oil light and it burning a small bit of oil (maybe ran a bit dry...  ) however....

I appreciate your help bwaller! Like I said, not my first rodeo on an engine build. But it's my first time on a SOHC Honda engine

[bwaller]

Just another suggestion, take it or leave it. Having the transmission gears (2nd through 5th) undercut is a positive mod.

[fitz101]

This sounds like a good idea. Will likely get that done :-)

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[SF]

I really don't understand where you are indicating. I am not doing anything to the valve seats at all (maybe lap the valve seats if anything). As far as porting and polishing, it will be throughout the entire port. Especially around the valve guide itself (I've seen people call this the football area?). I've never done cylinder head work on one of these before, but I've done plenty on small block ford heads if that makes you feel better on the inside

Jay is talking about boring the seat/throat area out to 90% of the oversize valve OD. As Brent indicated he picked about 8% HP increase even with just 1mm OS intake valve.

Would this only be a result of using CR's?

[fitz101]

Christmas came in March!!

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[fitz101]

The wrist rocket and marbles were not part of this order :-)

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[fitz101]

Not honda related, but still performance related :-)



Even got a newspaper from Japan with the Keihin carbs :-P

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