Topic: CB550 Switch Housing Paint Questions

[Chaser60]

I found an earlier post on a complete tear down and refurbishment of the left and right switches.   Unbelievably detailed and complete.   The switches I am working with are in good working order, but the overall color and finish on the outside is kind of all over the place.    See the pic below, including the master cylinder.  Pics dont show it well, but the top half is very different color than the bottom half on the switches.

I believe these were originally gloss black anodized. I don't really want to strip these completely down and remove all the springs, pins, "guts", but would like to get them back to gloss black and orange letters.   I have these off the original bar because I am going with the lower rise bar from CB400f. 

So my questions are; Has anyone successfully masked and painted these switch housings, master cylinder and bracket parts?   What did you use to clean and paint?   Any tips on masking to keep over spray out of the electrical contact areas?   

[Muckinfuss]

Many years ago we used to clean up switches with Prepsolv, then spray with gloss auto lacquer.  When done, we would then use One Shot to wipe into the recesses.  One Shot isn't lacquer, so the mineral spirits used to clean away the extra off the lacquer didn't affect the finish.

[Bru-tom]

polish em up

[flybox1]

dismantling them isnt as bad as you might think.
I did both of mine a few weekends back.  you'd be surprised at all the crud inside.
if you want to do a decent job, you'll have to take them apart. 
I wire wheel'd mine to rough it up a bit, washed with acetone, etch primer coated and a few coats of gloss black.
sorry, no pictures with me of the tops.  but they turned out nice.

[Bru-tom]

could one slap the entire assembly into an ultrasonic cleaner? that could make your job way easier. Then lube it up with dielectric grease afterwards...

[Bootlegger56]

I just clean mine up real good with steel wool and wipe them down with mineral spirits.  You can disassemble or tape up the switches and buttons.  I have done it both ways.  Complete disassembly and cleaning is recommended.  I use Fil-Stiks to fill in the letters and just wipe off the excess.  It holds up well, comes in just about any color, is easy to use and is easy to repair if needed.  Just heat it up a little and it rubs right in to the recesses. 

[dave500]

id do the "RUN"in green and the "OFF"in red,seems more logical?

[NobleHops]

Beware that rotary switch, if it's like the one I did, there's a little ball bearing beneath it. Have it over a cake pan when you disassemble to contain it. A speck of grease on it will hold it in place when you reassemble.

Agree on the disassemble if the action isn't crisp. Cleaning out the crud and contacts and lubing very lightly with silicone dielectric grease made mine work like new.

Great tip re the fil sticks. Will try that, seems easier than what I did. I've used model master paint, thinned and brushed in then squeegeed over top with a clean finger. For raised letters, a cigarette filter dampened with the same paint can be used well. Hold flat and dab till it's like you want.

Post pics!

[Chaser60]

Thanks everyone.   Will take them apart, clean and paint.   Have some other stuff to get done first so those side projects will have to wait a bit.   

[calj737]

Bill - I was hoping you'd dive in to getting a DIY anodizing kit from Eastwoods and redo your switches... Then, I could come out and do mine 

[Chaser60]

That would be awesome and I sure owe you some paybacks from all the help and advice.  However...I am still not recovered from the "works" toilet escapades in the tank to get that rust out...I think I am done with chemicals for a while.  So ready to start turning wrenches and screwdrivers.