Topic: Cb500F What have I gotten myself into??

[2strokeTrush]

Thanks for the help guys,  I would like to find a decent rear wheel soon. If anyone sees any let me know! Also, what does everyone think Air Filter wise?  Its going to need a new one.

[grcamna2]

Tyler,
I myself would install a paper replacement(O.E. style)element into the stock airbox.

[2strokeTrush]

Tyler,
I myself would install a paper replacement(O.E. style)element into the stock airbox.

Alright thanks, Where do you recommend buying from?

[grcamna2]

I haven't looked lately but you might try an Emgo... I know they're are a few companies that make aftermarket air filters,but I haven't been buying any since I had my repair business.I like OE but they're expensive and tough to find.

[2strokeTrush]

I haven't looked lately but you might try an Emgo... I know they're are a few companies that make aftermarket air filters,but I haven't been buying any since I had my repair business.I like OE but they're expensive and tough to find.

Alright cool Ill look into that!

[NobleHops]

That looks like a custom chopper type rim w/ a big fat 16" tire..,if it was me I'd go back to the stock 18" rear rim and tire.

Yeah I kinda hate it.  Could I run a Avon on that rim still?

You could but I wouldnt. Best route to go is buy a used rim/hub on here or ebay.
Or trade....if you can find a sucker...ha! The 18" rim will improve handling, 'nuff said.

What's the correct width for that bike?

I have a 185 x 18" rim in decent condition that I would part with for the low low college-guy discount price of "free" with free shipping on the sole condition that you promise me you will use it if I send it. I tried to look it up somewhat feebly and failed. See if you can find out from one of the smart guys here or elsewhere if this is the correct size and PM me your address if it's all a go. I may even have the old spokes and nipples from my 400 for this wheel - no idea if they're correct for your hub and it might be a terrible idea to reuse them, but if I have them and you want them I'll send them too.

[Mcwilliams570]

I might have a rim for you too. I am about 50 miles from you in Wilmington De. I have a 72 cb500 parts bike just sitting around in my garage if you need any parts hit me up..

Matt

[2strokeTrush]

I might have a rim for you too. I am about 50 miles from you in Wilmington De. I have a 72 cb500 parts bike just sitting around in my garage if you need any parts hit me up..

Matt

Thanks man, is it just the rim or is it the complete rear wheel?  And do you have a starter and horn?  Right now I'm thinking of those.

[2strokeTrush]

That looks like a custom chopper type rim w/ a big fat 16" tire..,if it was me I'd go back to the stock 18" rear rim and tire.

Yeah I kinda hate it.  Could I run a Avon on that rim still?

You could but I wouldnt. Best route to go is buy a used rim/hub on here or ebay.
Or trade....if you can find a sucker...ha! The 18" rim will improve handling, 'nuff said.

What's the correct width for that bike?

I have a 185 x 18" rim in decent condition that I would part with for the low low college-guy discount price of "free" with free shipping on the sole condition that you promise me you will use it if I send it. I tried to look it up somewhat feebly and failed. See if you can find out from one of the smart guys here or elsewhere if this is the correct size and PM me your address if it's all a go. I may even have the old spokes and nipples from my 400 for this wheel - no idea if they're correct for your hub and it might be a terrible idea to reuse them, but if I have them and you want them I'll send them too.

Thanks man thats really really nice of you!  Ill try and find out what the stock size is!

[Mcwilliams570]

I might have a rim for you too. I am about 50 miles from you in Wilmington De. I have a 72 cb500 parts bike just sitting around in my garage if you need any parts hit me up..

Matt

Thanks man, is it just the rim or is it the complete rear wheel?  And do you have a starter and horn?  Right now I'm thinking of those.

Its a complete rear wheel. I should have a horn and starter will check when I get home from work tomorrow.


Matt

[NobleHops]

What's wrong with your starter homes? Those are a lot easier to fix than it might seem. Check out my thread (sig) and see how I repaired mine. Complete rebuild kit including everything you might possibly need it $18, shipped.

BTW, Matt McWilliams, you kick ass.

N.

[2strokeTrush]

What's wrong with your starter homes? Those are a lot easier to fix than it might seem. Check out my thread (sig) and see how I repaired mine. Complete rebuild kit including everything you might possibly need it $18, shipped.

BTW, Matt McWilliams, you kick ass.

N.

Oh I have been following right along on that thread!   I saw your rebuild and that pretty freakin sweet.  The PO said the starter never worked right and just pops when you hit the button.

[NobleHops]

What's wrong with your starter homes? Those are a lot easier to fix than it might seem. Check out my thread (sig) and see how I repaired mine. Complete rebuild kit including everything you might possibly need it $18, shipped.

BTW, Matt McWilliams, you kick ass.

N.

Oh I have been following right along on that thread!   I saw your rebuild and that pretty freakin sweet.  The PO said the starter never worked right and just pops when you hit the button.

What happens when you try it with a fully charged battery? First things to check are the connections to the solenoid, then from solenoid to the starter and the ground to the frame. Renew those connections with the battery disconnected, make sure they are all clean and tight (fine sandpaper and dielectric grease) and then try again. IF the battery is fully charged and you just hear a little clicking from the solenoid, that could be your culprit. Pull back the rubber hood, grab a big screwdriver and CAREFULLY bridge the two posts on top. DON't touch the metal of the screwdriver while you do this - you are connecting the starter directly to the battery momentarily when you do this and if you are touching the metal you will be sad. If the starter spins normally w hen you do this then the solenoid is your culprit.

If none of that makes any difference and the starter just makes odd noises or gets hot, then get into that. Remove the battery, remove the positive lead to the starter, remove the two bolts holding it in and wiggle it out - there's an oring on the shaft. Disassembly is pretty easy, just go slow and take pictures.

Do this in this order and you wont' chase your tail replacing good parts :-). And don't bother troubleshooting this with a weak battery. Fully charged battery first.

Report back!

[2strokeTrush]

What's wrong with your starter homes? Those are a lot easier to fix than it might seem. Check out my thread (sig) and see how I repaired mine. Complete rebuild kit including everything you might possibly need it $18, shipped.

BTW, Matt McWilliams, you kick ass.

N.

Oh I have been following right along on that thread!   I saw your rebuild and that pretty freakin sweet.  The PO said the starter never worked right and just pops when you hit the button.

What happens when you try it with a fully charged battery? First things to check are the connections to the solenoid, then from solenoid to the starter and the ground to the frame. Renew those connections with the battery disconnected, make sure they are all clean and tight (fine sandpaper and dielectric grease) and then try again. IF the battery is fully charged and you just hear a little clicking from the solenoid, that could be your culprit. Pull back the rubber hood, grab a big screwdriver and CAREFULLY bridge the two posts on top. DON't touch the metal of the screwdriver while you do this - you are connecting the starter directly to the battery momentarily when you do this and if you are touching the metal you will be sad. If the starter spins normally w hen you do this then the solenoid is your culprit.

If none of that makes any difference and the starter just makes odd noises or gets hot, then get into that. Remove the battery, remove the positive lead to the starter, remove the two bolts holding it in and wiggle it out - there's an oring on the shaft. Disassembly is pretty easy, just go slow and take pictures.

Do this in this order and you wont' chase your tail replacing good parts :-). And don't bother troubleshooting this with a weak battery. Fully charged battery first.

Report back!

Thanks for the tip on the starter.  Ill give that a go.  And when I hit the starter it just pops but ill try going direct across the solenoid like you mentioned.

[2strokeTrush]

Bad weather and work tied me up most of today, but got a little bit done on both bikes.  Soaking the tank in Vinegar has really started pulling the Rust out!  Ill post a picture in a few days of what it looks like ( Hopefully ) done!



Strained the first batch, this is not nearly as much as I got out.


This was clear at one point!


Petcock freed up with the soaking I guess!


Really hoping this week I can put gas in the tank an try running her again.  One question though-On the fuel line there is a little brass insert that pushes and holds the line into the Petcock and is inside the line.  Only one of my lines has this, so I can only plug one line into the tank.  My question is where can I find more of these?

[grcamna2]

2 stroke,
Tank work and Vinegar..."what have you gotten yourself into" 
I hope you're able to cut that old fuel line where your old brass outlet tube from your petcock is because they're TOUGH to find.I've done mine by Not trying to remove the little brass tube w/ pliers,but using a razor knife and Carefully(don't cut your fingers !)slicing the old fuel line.. I learned a while back that you have to buy a complete petcock(new or used)just to get that little tube;it's a Precise fit.

[2strokeTrush]

2 stroke,
Tank work and Vinegar..."what have you gotten yourself into" 
I hope you're able to cut that old fuel line where your old brass outlet tube from your petcock is because they're TOUGH to find.I've done mine by Not trying to remove the little brass tube w/ pliers,but using a razor knife and Carefully(don't cut your fingers !)slicing the old fuel line.. I learned a while back that you have to buy a complete petcock(new or used)just to get that little tube;it's a Precise fit.

HAHA yeah not much of a update, just wanting to get this going!  Thanks for the tip on the fuel line.  Sucks I may have to buy a complete Petcock.  Guess the hunt is on!

[2strokeTrush]

Just ordered a new Petcock.  Noob question but how hard is it to replace?  Should i use any sealer when installing?  You can tell i have never touched one before

[grcamna2]

Tyler,
It should just take 1 or 2 jis(Japanese industrial standard)#3 phillips screws that screw into the tank,they can be accessed from inside the petcock.I hope you ordered a new OE petcock because they come w/ all the rubber seals & you install everything dry.Clean the tank where the petcock seal meets up w/ the tank so its smooth and will create a good seal,just make sure there's no more gas in it when you remove it 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Just ordered a new Petcock.  Noob question but how hard is it to replace?  Should i use any sealer when installing?  You can tell i have never touched one before

The petcock is super easy to replace.  Make sure the tank is clean (no gas) as well as the bung.  You should use a petrol-resistant sealant (not teflon tape) to seal the threads of the bung and petcock so you don't get any leaks down the road.  Easy peasy.

[2strokeTrush]

The petcock is super easy to replace.  Make sure the tank is clean (no gas) as well as the bung.  You should use a petrol-resistant sealant (not teflon tape) to seal the threads of the bung and petcock so you don't get any leaks down the road.  Easy peasy.
[/quote]

Tyler,
It should just take 1 or 2 jis(Japanese industrial standard)#3 phillips screws that screw into the tank,they can be accessed from inside the petcock.I hope you ordered a new OE petcock because they come w/ all the rubber seals & you install everything dry.Clean the tank where the petcock seal meets up w/ the tank so its smooth and will create a good seal,just make sure there's no more gas in it when you remove it 

Thanks guys, Ill let the tank soak until the new one comes in but its good to know its not going to be difficult.

[2strokeTrush]

Well today I decided to try and get a little work done on the bike as the weather was close to 60 outside.  Just for fun I started the bike to hear her run, afterwards I felt the pipes and number 3 was cold,  Leaving me to believe the Cylinder is not firing. What could be the cause of this?  Could it be as simple the points or am I in trouble?  Then I went to turn her on again and I have no power to the forward controls, No blinkers or turn signals, headlights or Dash lights.  But when I went direct across the starter it sparked.  SO the bike is getting power somewhere.  Think I popped a fuse?  Where do I check that, besides the fuse by the solenoid that was fine.  The carbs are in need of a cleanup, and the bike doesn't have a constant fuel source yet, and we were using a jump box, not the battery as it is shot.  Hoping these factors may have contributed. Basically I'm pretty upset, as last week I had a sort of running bike with electronics that worked.  Now Im SOL.   Pretty depressed as I was pretty excited about the bike being almost perfect.

Point are pretty dirty and greasy.



The front brakes have no pull in the lever it just pulls in an springs back out with no force whatsoever.  So I took off the MC cover

[2strokeTrush]

Let's see:

1. When you add brake fluid, you'll have to bleed the system. Careful with removing/opening the bleeder. Start soaking it in penetrating oil now, then replace it with a new one.

2. Fuses: left side, under side cover. Check them all.
3. Faulty electrics: could be a bad run/stop switch connection, connections behind headlight, lots of places. Troubleshoot the areas one-by-one and repair and grease all fittings. If in doubt, cut and solder on new connectors.
4. #3 cold - probably the plug cap. Check the fitting at the spark plug, and pull the plugs (keep them ordered) and compare them. Check for spark on that cylinder. Could be a bad wire connection to that plug only

Keep this in mind- you paid $500 and got a great bike; not a perfect bike. It's going to need some work and some elbow grease to make it reliable and safe. Do the 3,000 mile tune up on it. Make a list of things that need attention, and you'll get thru them quickly. Pull down the manual off this site and keep it for reference.

Also, make sure you adjust the valves, clean the points and double check all your bearings. Replace your fork oil too!

Thanks man. I know its gonna take some work just upsetting about it going downhill so quickly.  Ill check what you said about the plug wires, the PO has replaced the coil wires and plug caps though.  How hard is it to adjust Valves?  I have never done that before. 

[grcamna2]

Let's see:

1. When you add brake fluid, you'll have to bleed the system. Careful with removing/opening the bleeder. Start soaking it in penetrating oil now, then replace it with a new one.

2. Fuses: left side, under side cover. Check them all.
3. Faulty electrics: could be a bad run/stop switch connection, connections behind headlight, lots of places. Troubleshoot the areas one-by-one and repair and grease all fittings. If in doubt, cut and solder on new connectors.
4. #3 cold - probably the plug cap. Check the fitting at the spark plug, and pull the plugs (keep them ordered) and compare them. Check for spark on that cylinder. Could be a bad wire connection to that plug only

Keep this in mind- you paid $500 and got a great bike; not a perfect bike. It's going to need some work and some elbow grease to make it reliable and safe. Do the 3,000 mile tune up on it. Make a list of things that need attention, and you'll get thru them quickly. Pull down the manual off this site and keep it for reference.

Also, make sure you adjust the valves, clean the points and double check all your bearings. Replace your fork oil too!

+1 on all the above. 
 I want to add also it's good to file the points after you're done cleaning them,it usually is best to remove everything from the points plate including the points(it's better to find some very 'fine' sandpaper(6-900)to fit between the points to 'dress' them with after you clean them,I use to use special 'flex stone' points files but can't seem to find them anymore) and condensers and then clean the base plate that it all mounts to w/ contact cleaner.I'd then remove that base plate and Service the  advance mechanism just like they tell you on another thread here on the forum.

I just thought I'd also mention,it's a good idea to remove the ignition switch/steering lock unit and entirely service that.I've seen lots of them have loose contacts on the white male plug that goes into the switch which created 'ghost' ignition/power losses & left you wasting precious time scratching your head    . 

[2strokeTrush]

Thanks guys, Im going to try all of this!  I Found Vintage Bike Heaven today though.  Its a huge warehouse called Baltimore Cycle Salvage, and its in a terrible section of town freakin packed with bikes.  Pulled up and they have a 450 twin sitting out front.  Figured I was in the right place.  Ill be making friends with the owner   He said I could bring my bike by anytime and he would help/ teach me what he can, no charge.  Guess this day ended well!