Topic: Front Forks CB550F

[Wollongongwolf]

Tomorrow I hope to take the front forks off to change the oil and polish off the oxidisation. Should have no problems with this part.
What I really want to know, what is the best way to hold the front wheel of the ground to get it off and stay up while removing the wheel and forks? Would hate to see the bike go face first onto my garage floor.
I have a stand that lifts for my dirt bikes, but the 550 is too low to get the stand up under it.I see  that the case protrudes below the frame, can I chock it up from under there or will the weight of the bike damage it?
Any hints or pics from an expert who has no lift to do the same job would be great, got a few ideas, but best ask you good people first.
Also was going to loosen the fork caps, undo the drain bolt and drain the old oil out while I got them off, then top them up with fresh stuff.Is this  a perfectly accepable method without pulling the whole fork apart?
I also had dry hard dirty and crusty oil all over one fork leg when I got the bike a few weeks ago, so thought the seal had gone. I took the boot off and seemed to be no oil in there, so confused on that. But did notice there was no brake fluid, but that is on the other side? even more as could not find a leak in the brake system.
So I think when I drain the oil ,will measure what comes out and will confirm a leak or not.I have done fork seals on my dirtbikes and what I can see looks pretty similier to my XL350R. I have a workshop manual(Haynes) so think I can do it, but have one question on that job, so if you know forks, let me know and will ask away just in case I need new seals.
thanks all for your patience with all my stupid questions.

[flatlander]

i did my fork recently, also without a lift. also on a 550f. found a really strong crate that i put under the engine. i think it's good to do this with 2 people, in case something goes out of balance - i had a friend helping me.

"the case protrudes below the frame": i guess you mean the oil pan? should be fine if the surface holding the weight is big enough, propping up the whole area and not just one or two small points. worked for me, at least.

your drain method sounds right for changing the oil. unless you want to pull the whole forks apart as i did, that's the way to go. to be honest, once you go there i'd take them apart and replace the seals at least. then you know they're good. i'm happy that i put in new springs as well - can highly recommend that as an upgrade.

[RodPlunger]

I cut a piece of 2x4 to fit just behind the oil filter housing and to sit on the frame. Then I used a floor jack to lift up and hold the front end while I disassembled it. I have a 4-1 exhaust that won't really allow for a lift to sit directly to the frame. This pic kinda shows what I mean, but I wasn't particularly taking a pic of the lift.

I second taking the whole thing apart. It's really not that complicated. And then you know what you got.

[Wollongongwolf]

 Good info Flatman. Well the question I need to ask is usually the instructions are to use a rattle gun to undo the bolt at the botom of the forks. If you don't the nut just spins on the part it connects to inside the lower fork.
When I did my XL350, I saw a video online(youtube XL600R same as XL350), says to leave the fork cap on tight, undo the bolt on the bottom first as the fork cap keeps it under pressure to allow you to do this. It should do the same with the 550 fork I think. Did you do it the way I just described?

[RodPlunger]

Yes, you can crack all of the bolts just enough while it is still in the triple trees that you can just take them off easily after you have pulled the forks. The springs hold enough tension in everything to give you torque.

[Wollongongwolf]

Thanks Rod, I have no floor Jack. Was thinking about doing the same with a bit of 4x2 etc with the car jack out of the car. Was thinking of getting a piece around 600mm or 2ft long, jack it up then prop up both ends with some bricks or pavers. So similar to your idea. The pipe is off at the moment as I am weighting for a new set to arrive. These are heavy bastards compared to my dirt bikes, so feeling my way about and working out all the tricks. Yes was thinking about new seals anyway, but will have to order them, so will have to keep the forks on till they arrive I guess, my wife don't like her car outside and mine is not going out either.
So good to have you blokes here to help,so if I have trouble with the forks, I know you are all here to get me out of trouble, thanks again

[dave500]

id fully disemble them for cleaning,its the only way,they werent made yesterday!plus its more satisfying that way.

[Wollongongwolf]

Great Rod, worked with the XL that way and the very bad video I saw on line for a Honda four, fork looked similar to the XL. The guy who did the Honda four took the cap off first, took the forks out and then undid the bottom bolt with a rattle gun. Being the worlds worst mechanic, need to check these things out before I attack, but learning new stuff all the time and enjoying it, even though do get nervous that I could brake #$%*, thanks.

[Wollongongwolf]

I know your right Dave, when I did them on the other bikes, cleaned them right out, but being lazy as I want it on the road, but looks like I will order a set, pout. Good things come to those who wait I suppose!

[dave500]

dont do half a bloody job!

[Wollongongwolf]

Seals ordered from Pyramid Parts, $15.45, will be pacing the garage floor till delivery!

[Stev-o]

I used a ratchet star attached to the rafters of the ceiling and lifted the frond end off the ground. It's a little bit safer than a bike sitting on a jack and allows more room underneath.
I currently have my K4 apart for the same reason, new oil, seals, springs and head bearings. Do it!

[Deltarider]

My seals after some 130.000 km are still not leaking thanks to the gators. Honda should not have changed that.