Topic: help needed to fit relay kit to headlight

[Scott]

Hi there
I have CB750 K2.  I bought the relay kit from Hondaman and have just started to fit it.
Is there any instructions on the forum somewhere please.
I have the wiring diagram sent with the kit, but I am having trouble understanding it.

I think I have the wires from the relay to the headlight globe connected correctly.

The wires I'm stuck on is the green wire that links terminals #85 together on the relays. I don't know where that should connect to in the wiring harness.

Also the black wire that links terminals #30 on the relays. I'm not sure where I should connect that to in the wiring harness.

Thanks for any advice
Scott

[LesterPiglet]

Black and green are standard Honda colours and I'm sure Hondaman would not complicate matters. So connect them to any green and any black.

[Scott]

Thanks Lester makes sense but I'm just spinning out a bit here and don't want to let the smoke out of any wires

Anyone know if  green wire is earth on these bikes and black wire 12v +
If this is the case can I run a fused wire from the battery straight to my relays.
+ to terminal #30
- to terminal  #85

Once again thanks for help
Scott

[HondaMan]

Thanks Lester makes sense but I'm just spinning out a bit here and don't want to let the smoke out of any wires

Anyone know if  green wire is earth on these bikes and black wire 12v +
If this is the case can I run a fused wire from the battery straight to my relays.
+ to terminal #30
- to terminal  #85

Once again thanks for help
Scott

You can do that, but I would be curious 'why'? The Black wire circuit in the headlight should be enough to power the headlight.

I've seen some folks add the 3-fuse block that I make into the K2, using the K3/4/5 battery box to hold it in place, then use the extra fuses for things like what you're describing. The K2 only had 1 fuse, which powered the whole bike, in U.S. and Euro models. I understand, though, that in AUS the K2 was the 'model designation' until 1975, or something like that?

[Scott]

Is there meant to be one green wire and one black wire from the relays not hooked up to anything.
These wires I am talking about are the ones that link the 2 relays together (terminal #30 and terminal #85)

Thanks
Scott

[Scott]

Also I ended up running a fused figure 8 wire straight from the battery because I can't find anywhere in the head light bucket to plug in the green or black wires.

I may have mixed something up.  But I tried the relays with out the headlight assembly and they both clicked at the appropriate time, then I plugged in the head light assembly and both low and high beam work as they should running through the relays.

So it's just the "spare" wires that are "piggy backed" off the ones that I ran my figure 8 cable to.

[petejohno]

Scott said "can I run a fused wire from the battery straight to my relays"

Hondaman said "You can do that, but I would be curious 'why'? The Black wire circuit in the headlight should be enough to power the headlight."

In your book it states an option to "run a separate wire to a 15amp fuse to reduce keyswitch load"
This is what I was going to do as well. I am confused.

[HondaMan]

Scott said "can I run a fused wire from the battery straight to my relays"

Hondaman said "You can do that, but I would be curious 'why'? The Black wire circuit in the headlight should be enough to power the headlight."

In your book it states an option to "run a separate wire to a 15amp fuse to reduce keyswitch load"
This is what I was going to do as well. I am confused.

That particular

Scott said "can I run a fused wire from the battery straight to my relays"

Hondaman said "You can do that, but I would be curious 'why'? The Black wire circuit in the headlight should be enough to power the headlight."

In your book it states an option to "run a separate wire to a 15amp fuse to reduce keyswitch load"
This is what I was going to do as well. I am confused.

On bikes where the wiring is in bad shape, or the connectors corroded, or splices cooked from previous abuse, the 'simple' fix was to run a new wire, separately fused, to brighten up the headlight. Today we also have the nice new option of getting a brand-new wiring harness, which wasn't even available when I wrote the book.

Sometimes the wires were cooked by someone using a very strong headlight, or the Dyna S ignition and 3-ohm coils together, or both. This is commonly found to have overheated the splices in the Black and Green main feeds to the headlight bucket, often also damaging the keyswitch (especially the K0-K1 types with the round Brown connectors). At the time of the book writing (2006-2008) the EMGO switches were the only keyswitches available, and they are only rated for 8 amps, not the 12 amps used by the 750. This makes the Red wires melt right off the backs of those switches. So, to reduce the loads on the switch, running the separate "hot" wire to the headlight, around the key, was the first common fix for the problem. Later I came out with the now-popular Keyswitch Saver Relay Kit, which lets the keyswitch power a relay that then powers the bike. If the Black and Green main wires in the harness are not damaged, this makes for a brighter headlight, too.

Sorry that it now sort of generates confusion!

[petejohno]

Thanks Hondaman, that explains it well.

[alacrity]

Hondaman is THE man, among men, seriously.

[MCRider]

I hooked my HondaMan Hlight relay up in minutes. My bike is a K2. Every wire had a home, and the light went back in the bucket (Chrome aftermarket) without resistance. I was so proud of myself!