Topic: CB550 Valves/Timing

[akpasta]

Hello,

Working on a tune up 1974 CB550. I set the timing first because my feeler gauge broke and no one was open to get another one. Bike ran well, but valves were loud, still needed to be set. Then I got a new gauge and set the valves. Think I got the valves set very close to one another, spent like 2.5 hours doing it (it's touch and go as you prob know). Then I fired her up. She ran quiet and nice-sounding but sputtered #$%*ty, it's not right.

I know all the instructions say start with valves, then timing, but does setting tappet gaps change the timing enough, or did I mess up setting the valve tappet gaps? I didn't have my static test light on me to check the timing or else I could answer my own question.

Thanks.

[Kenzo1979]

If you spent 2 1/2 hours setting your Valves, I would hope they're fine.  Just go back and double check the ignition timing.  Did you sync the carbs yet.  If not, once you've gone through the ignition timing again, I would sync the carbs.  Sounds like timing or carb issues to me.

[akpasta]

Maybe. I have the motion pro, double-sided .002"/.003" feeler gauge, which, honestly, #$%*ing sucks for setting the deep exhaust tappets on the cb550. I feel like I'm not getting an accurate reading, and I think I overcompensated and over-tightened some of them, which probably would produce the "farting" i'm getting out of at least one of the cylinders.

I'll try again.

[Kenzo1979]

Ok, well I would loosen them all again.  This time be sure to tighten the right ones.  Bring the T mark around to 1-4 and make sure you're setting the right ones, either cylinder 1 OR cylinder 4 will be at TDC.  If your setting cylinder 4 when really cylinder 1 is at TDC, you're in trouble.  That's kinda hard to screw up unless you have the adjuster screws backed WAY out on all.  And make sure you're using the correct gauge for intake and exhaust.

[akpasta]

Ya, it can be really frustrating/time-consuming because the clearances are so exact and easily shift when you tighten the lock nut. I'll go over it again.

[LesterPiglet]

I have the motion pro, double-sided .002"/.003" feeler gauge, which, honestly, #$%*ing sucks for setting the deep exhaust tappets on the cb550. I feel like I'm not getting an accurate reading...

What's wrong with ordinairy feelers?

[akpasta]

Nothing, they're better. Where can I find some? I live in a large city you'd think a shop would have some, but it seems every moto shop in town sells sets that don't go small enough, or they only have the crappy motion pro ones.

[Kenzo1979]

Pretty sure I got a metric set that had the right sizes at pep boys.  Also they shouldn't shift that much if you're countering the 10mm wrench with the flathead driver.

[Duanob]

I am positive you have a manual but just in case here is the Valve adjusting page;

[LesterPiglet]

I got mine at an Auto shop.

[akpasta]

I'll call around. I have a manual, but oddly enough, the one that people always link to on this web site seems to be missing the page that comes after that page. The next page of the pdf skips from the last step on the valve adjustment page you reference, to step 5 of carb adjustment... what's up with that?

[akpasta]

Not a single auto or motorcycle shop in San Francisco carries feeler gauges that go down to .002". Looks like i'll have to make due with the motion pro one I have...

[TwoTired]

Try a hardware store tool department.

[Kenzo1979]

How bad could they be?  Breakem and bendem if u have to.

[akpasta]

My buddy I share a garage with claims to have a set! Hopefully they're small enough.

The motion-pro ones look like this, that's why they suck for deep recessed valves. Not a lot of room for error, and if the gauge breaks at the rivet when you're bending it into the valve, you're #$%*ED.

[flybox1]

^ these motion pro feelers work fine, and if you're having to jam them in there, and feel they might break or break at the rivet, the feeler is not in the right spot or there is no gap, or you're hamb-fisting it.  Be aware that when you tighten the nut,  everything turns, reducing the gap.  Get the feeler in there , leave it there, and slowly tighten the adjuster till it just grabs the feeler, but still could pull out.  leave the feeler in the gap, and tighten the lock nut.  If the feeler is stuck now, you spun everything.  You need to hold the tappet adjuster screw in place accurately.   check with the next larger feeler.  Go/No go.  Done.  Next valve.

2 1/2 hrs?!?!?    30 min max, even when having to leapfrog the bike a few times