Author Topic: Valve adjustment question? (Read 2835 times)

77F2cb · « **on:** August 13, 2005, 05:29:11 AM »

I was doing some research on valve adjustment technique, and came across this page:
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/vlvadj/vlv.htm

It's different than any of the manuals I have. Does it work?

Thanks!
Dave

Bodi · « **Reply #1 on:** August 13, 2005, 07:51:55 AM »

The procedure works OK for SOHC4 engines.
There's a statement that all inline multicylinder bikes fire at 180 degree offsets. Not true. But true for the Honda SOHC4.
One big problem is suggesting turning the engine over using the ignition points cam. This is a VERY BAD IDEA! The large nut looks like it's strong but it is not, the advancer assembly is fairly delicate and if you break it off you are thourougly screwed. It's more work and a bit of a pain but remove the alternator and turn the engine with the rotor attachment bolt. This baby is plenty strong enough.

Philly550K1 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 13, 2005, 08:46:41 AM »

Quote from: Bodi on August 13, 2005, 07:51:55 AM

One big problem is suggesting turning the engine over using the ignition points cam. This is a VERY BAD IDEA! The large nut looks like it's strong but it is not, the advancer assembly is fairly delicate and if you break it off you are thourougly screwed. It's more work and a bit of a pain but remove the alternator and turn the engine with the rotor attachment bolt. This baby is plenty strong enough.

huh? i thought that's what that "special washer", as my manual refers to it, was there for. is the 750 different in this respect? how do you line up timing marks if you're turning the crankshaft from the left/port side of the bike?

-jc

77F2cb · « **Reply #3 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:39:21 AM »

Quote from: Bodi on August 13, 2005, 07:51:55 AM

One big problem is suggesting turning the engine over using the ignition points cam. This is a VERY BAD IDEA! The large nut looks like it's strong but it is not, the advancer assembly is fairly delicate and if you break it off....

This just can't be true! 1. There is NO force applied to the advance assembly when turning the 23mm nut, and 2. My "Honda" Service Manual tells you to use that 23mm nut to rotate the crank for timing and valve adjustment. 3. I know lots of people that have been doing it for years.

Bodi, did you ever brake it?

liquidplumber · « **Reply #4 on:** August 13, 2005, 10:21:05 AM »

I've used the 23mm nut to turn the engine, never had a problem with it.

kghost · « **Reply #5 on:** August 13, 2005, 01:46:59 PM »

I just use the kickstarter.

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #6 on:** August 13, 2005, 02:57:59 PM »

Put the bike on the centre stand, put the bike into gear, turn the back wheel. Easy

Buffo · « **Reply #7 on:** August 13, 2005, 06:35:33 PM »

it is perfectly safe to turn the moter over using the "special washer" to time and check/adjust the valves.

heado · « **Reply #8 on:** August 13, 2005, 06:50:25 PM »

I have owned five different 750s and have always used the 23 mm bolt never ever had a problem and definetly never broke one.

Dennis · « **Reply #9 on:** August 13, 2005, 07:16:33 PM »

I use the "back wheel technique" that SamCR750 describes.
That "special" nut looks a little too fragile to me.
Sometimes I even remove the spark plugs!

kghost · « **Reply #10 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:02:43 PM »

Well, I can tell no one has taken that apart or broken one.

Its not a nut. Its a nut shape on a spline. That "nut" is held on two tabs by the nut inside of it.

Actually the "nut" is what your supposed to use to make small ajustments to engine position.

kghost · « **Reply #11 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:07:09 PM »

Quote from: Bodi on August 13, 2005, 07:51:55 AM

One big problem is suggesting turning the engine over using the ignition points cam. This is a VERY BAD IDEA! The large nut looks like it's strong but it is not, the advancer assembly is fairly delicate and if you break it off you are thourougly screwed.

Wrong See above post and blow up the picture below

Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8" · « **Reply #12 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:14:14 PM »

I just use the kickstarter. Any problems with that?

kghost · « **Reply #13 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:17:21 PM »

No, I use the kickstarter, then the nut for fine tuning, the point was........

Thats what the nut is for, and its not really a nut.

Dennis · « **Reply #14 on:** August 13, 2005, 09:38:20 PM »

Yeah, I know exactly what it is
I just feel better turning it from the rear wheel.
Kick starter is ok also, just a little better control from rear wheel.
Still looks very fragile to me!

77F2cb · « **Reply #15 on:** August 13, 2005, 10:23:30 PM »

Quote from: kghost on August 13, 2005, 09:02:43 PM

Well, I can tell no one has taken that apart or broken one.

Its not a nut. Its a nut shape on a spline. That "nut" is held on two tabs by the nut inside of it.

Actually the "nut" is what your supposed to use to make small ajustments to engine position.

Had to take it apart to install the Dyan-S, and it's not like I yank it around. When adjusting the valves or checking the timing (statically, but the Dyan is never off) you have to move it pretty slow anyway to get the marks. I have never put much force on it....How thick is that end of the crank? That rod coming out, 1/4, 5/16s? I'll bet it's pretty stong!! It sure seems it would be hard to see the marks (or get as close to them), or valve position from the rear wheel, or kickstarter.

No one has answered the original question. Does the procedure work (thoughts)?

Dennis · « **Reply #16 on:** August 13, 2005, 10:35:58 PM »

Sorry, I do mine by the Honda book.
I can't answer that.
Didn't even look at his procedure.

Bodi · « **Reply #17 on:** August 14, 2005, 09:23:51 AM »

True, you don't force the advancer. I have had to fix bikes where the owner has torqued that "special washer" right off. It does break, and you're pretty screwed if it does. Just be aware that it is way weaker than anything with a 23mm hex head is normally.

kghost · « **Reply #18 on:** August 14, 2005, 09:26:36 AM »

Its just cast. I wouldn't do a superman on it. But its there to rotate the crank.

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Author Topic: Valve adjustment question? (Read 2835 times)

77F2cb

77F2cb

Buffo

heado

77F2cb