Topic: 'Easyweld'...anyone have any experience with this?

[nickjtc]

I just found out about this on the UK sohc forum site.

http://www.easyweld.com/

The reviews are rapturous, and it seems to be every home mechanics dream way of doing simple aluminium repars.

Anyone out there have any experience with this...?

[STLrocker]

never used it. looks much more like brazing than welding to me. to be a weld, it must melt the base metal of the item being welded. the two seperate pieces of metal are melted and flow together (with some filler) to become one piece.

 i would think to make it work well, you would need to use joints similar to brazing. no butt joints. overlap material so the filler can flow between it.

[Clyde]

I have used it twice- once to repair/fill a piece of crankcase that had broken away and also to repair the aluminium radiator from a GT750 Water cooled bike. Both repairs worked out well
The rods are not aluminium but some sort of mixture of zinc/lead/tin???
The method is to get the aluminuim hot enough so that when you rub the rod on the aluminium it melts and sticks to the base metal. It does not flow very well and relies on joining where you melt the rod onto the base. However it is very strong and is much harder than aluminium.
In the case of the radiator a 1/4 " pipe had broken of and I used this product to "weld" it up -again no problems. I rubbed both components (sort of like tinning for those who have soldered) and then joined them
It is also slightly darker than aluminium, but this did not worry as I was painting over it anyway.
Easy enough to use but not as good as aluminium welding using TIG/MIG.

Cheers Clyde

[oldbiker]

At an exhibition, I saw a demonstration of this process. The guy stood one piece of alum plate on end on a flat surface and joined them in seconds. He then used a vice and pliars to bend the joint to destruction. The main metal broke but the joint did not. Hope this helps.

[JonnyHonda]

I have used it, I did the article on the UK site, It is tough stuff, and takes a bit of practise, the chaps at easyweld are helpful.

The main problem is getting it to bond to the aluminum casting, a stainless steel brush is used to continually clean the metal as you apply.

I filled a knackered tread hole on a fork tube, drilled it and tapped it out, works a treat, but it did take a few attempts,

Getting enough heat is also a problem, especially with large objects, I'm trying to fill a hole in a crankcase where a broken chain has damaged it (Probably why it was cheap), anyway I can't get it up to temp 'cos the whole casing hot.

If your in the UK drop me an email with your address and I'll send you a couple of sticks.

[Slapguts]

I have used it, I did the article on the UK site, It is tough stuff, and takes a bit of practise, the chaps at easyweld are helpful.

The main problem is getting it to bond to the aluminum casting, a stainless steel brush is used to continually clean the metal as you apply.

I filled a knackered tread hole on a fork tube, drilled it and tapped it out, works a treat, but it did take a few attempts,

Getting enough heat is also a problem, especially with large objects, I'm trying to fill a hole in a crankcase where a broken chain has damaged it (Probably why it was cheap), anyway I can't get it up to temp 'cos the whole casing hot.

If your in the UK drop me an email with your address and I'll send you a couple of sticks.

Same problem I'm having. Have a hole in my case from a broken chain. Any other ideas for a solution?

[Jim F]

If you need any help with hard to weld Aluminum stuff

I can help you guys out

my web site is www.jmfmicroweld.com

I specialize in micro laser and micro tig welding of ferrous and non-ferrous metal,s

here are some examples of carburetor float bowl post repairs

Jim

[rhinoracer]

I've used it. Like everybody said, it doesn't flow as well as lead solder. Takes some practice, melting temp for solder is too close to aluminum for my brazing experienge.

I've turned the base metal to liquid state before being able to apply solder a couple of times. Obviously the base metal part deformed under these temps. Soldered joints are plenty strong.

I tried to repair a large casting and couln't get the base metal hot enough to apply the solder. The solder melted but wouldn't stick to the base metal.

With some practice I'm sure you can master the brazing or welding process, but if you're looking for just one small quick repair i'd have the part TIG welded. It'll be cheaper in the end.

[rhinoracer]

If you need any help with hard to weld Aluminum stuff

I can help you guys out

my web site is www.jmfmicroweld.com

I specialize in micro laser and micro tig welding of ferrous and non-ferrous metal,s

here are some examples of carburetor float bowl post repairs

Jim

Hi Jim, I read your previous post on micro welding. How costly is it?

It's very easy to find used and even new replacement parts for our bikes and your welding process looks expensive, so my question is: On what kind of parts is it more cost effective to repair than to replace?

[johnny-from-bel]

I use it all the time to repair small defects on my sandcasts. It is not for the novice welder.
It is like soldering but at a somewhat higher temp. If done correctly it is very strong, stronger than a soldered connection.
It goes better when the whole piece is hot 150 °C or so. Then just add some more heat with a butane blowtorch. Clean and apply the rod it should melt at the touch of the aluminium without holding it in the flame. Take your time, don't heat to aggressively to speed things up.

Let it cool slowly. It files welll, saws wel. But it tends to stick to the chisel when I turn it on the lathe. Its the next best thing to a MIG or TIG welder.

[Green550F]

Makes decent fill on a flat surface. I've had trouble on vertical surfaces.

Remember it isn't real aluminum! and would need to be removed if welding is needed later or it would contaminate the weld.

[johnny-from-bel]

Makes decent fill on a flat surface. I've had trouble on vertical surfaces.

True it tends to run on vertical surfaces

Remember it isn't real aluminum! and would need to be removed if welding is needed later or it would contaminate the weld.

Commercial aluminium is a Al+Zn+Mg alloy and the rods are a Al+Zn alloy it should not matter to much. Not for our applications. I would not weld something from an airplane with it.

[jonbuoy]

I used a similar product called durafix - I made a tail light box and filled in the holes on my top yolks.  Its hard to get big castings up to temp - I had to use an Oxy torch with a big tip, keep the cone away from the ally or it will melt the casting really fast.  It also polishes up a bit easier than plain aluminum which means you ge shiny patches.  I'm still impressed by it.

[crazypj]

I did a Kawasaki Z1B cylinder head with it years ago (they always crack between valve seats)
Also did a few VW Beetle (aircooled) cylinder heads while experimenting.
 Seems to  work OK
PJ

[jonbuoy]

I did a Kawasaki Z1B cylinder head with it years ago (they always crack between valve seats)
Also did a few VW Beetle (aircooled) cylinder heads while experimenting.
 Seems to  work OK
PJ

Thats good to know - I've been a little reluctant to use it for anything critical like that, I was thinking it could probably be used for filling and smoothing for porting?  BigJim  - that micro tigging is damn impressive.

[johnny-from-bel]

I tried to repair a large casting and couln't get the base metal hot enough to apply the solder. The solder melted but wouldn't stick to the base metal.

Small tip.

put the cast in the oven and heat up to 200 °C.
put it outside and cover with a thick layer of sand, except for the area to solder.
Now heat the solder area with a butane blowtorch.

The sand will prevent the cast from cooling to much. Since you have peheated the cast you do not have to add so much heat.