Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 97331 times)

enwri · « **Reply #200 on:** March 08, 2015, 01:42:47 AM »

A quick add on about blasting, do the rocker cover as well first, and don't forget to fit the oil pressure sender as well to block that little hole. very important.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #201 on:** March 08, 2015, 08:51:54 AM »

Engine is on the stand now.

I dremeled off part of the stud, calj, but still no luck with heat. I'm really afraid of shearing it now! Although I should note, I think my propane torch may be due for more propane, I was never able to get the stud red hot. Maybe I didn't hold it at the base of the stud long enough or maybe it needs a refill. Will try again this afternoon after I take out some frustration at the gym.

calj737 · « **Reply #202 on:** March 08, 2015, 10:47:27 AM »

Poor the heat at the base of the stud where it enters the engine

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #203 on:** March 14, 2015, 11:06:24 AM »

Nate,
Did you ever get that stud out? If not, one option is to find a local machine shop and take it to them. They removed the broken bolt I had in mine for just $25. That isn't very much to pay if they can relieve you of a major headache.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #204 on:** March 15, 2015, 05:03:41 PM »

All, just heading back from spring break in NOLA. Getting back to work tomorrow evening. Starting to consider paint for the engine & dgilling's recent engine paint job is exactly what I'm looking to do.

Thanks for the heads up, Ron. I figured that as was a possibility but had no idea what prices I would be looking at.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #205 on:** March 16, 2015, 06:43:02 AM »

Hey guys, I'm gonna order paints off Amazon today. Here's dgilling's paint job I mentioned last post: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137018.msg1658620.html#msg1658620.

I'm going with mostly black & will sand the fins the same way. Would everyone recommend going with VHT self-etching primer then VHT engine enamel flat black? Are these the only two things I'll need other than an obvious clean & prep materials (which I believe I already have)?

P.S. I have a new set of bolts for the engine, is it ok to paint over old screws, then remove them to be replaced or should I be worried about paint peeling when I remove the old screws?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #206 on:** March 16, 2015, 10:35:30 AM »

Nate,
If you're going to leave the old screws in to keep paint from getting in the holes, just make sure to back them out a bit. If you do that so that they're somewhat loose in the hole but still blocking the paint from getting in, you should be fine, I would think.

Also, if you're painting it in pieces, I'd go with soda blasting and painting on top of the cleaned case after that, but it sounds like you're just going to be painting it with it all together. In that case, prep the surface and then you can use the VHT primer under the VHT paint.

Ron

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #207 on:** March 16, 2015, 10:53:19 AM »

Sweet. Great idea for the bolts, Ron. Thanks. Did you guys put any clear coat over the VHT paint you used on your engine?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #208 on:** March 16, 2015, 02:27:06 PM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on March 16, 2015, 10:53:19 AM

Sweet. Great idea for the bolts, Ron. Thanks. Did you guys put any clear coat over the VHT paint you used on your engine?

No, but we painted ours when it was apart and then we were able to bake the pieces in the oven to set the paint.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #209 on:** March 16, 2015, 06:08:01 PM »

Got that last remaining stud out after getting a new MAP refill for my torch. Thanks guys!

Now on to bigger & better things. I need to set an engine wrap up date that will push me to really work on this thing every night. I think I can make a lot more progress that way.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #210 on:** March 16, 2015, 06:11:26 PM »

Attaboy! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help. Knoxville ain't that far away, if needed!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #211 on:** March 17, 2015, 06:53:56 AM »

Got my engine wrap up date set, it's pretty generous because I have so much else going on at the same time. April 16th, almost a month from today. I've got all the parts I need, except gotta order a few more piston circlips & a cam chain tensioner gasket.

Also just ordered my VHT primer, paint & clear from Amazon.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #212 on:** March 20, 2015, 04:43:55 PM »

Just out today, Moto Channel posted a new Kott Motorcycles build. Worth watching as he makes use of a GS750 tank & hides all of the electrical components beneath. Pretty great idea & thought it'd be worth sharing:

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #213 on:** March 24, 2015, 05:51:23 AM »

Went on a trip & managed to pick up a sinus infection as soon as I got back. Missed out on a lot of free time during spring break to work on the bike, but got back in the garage last night & cleaned up the base gasket area around the rods. Lots of old residue to clean off & the best/safest method I could come up with was a straight razor with some lacquer thinner. Also cleaned out my stud holes with a soft brush.

Will be back at it tonight, cleaning the rest of the engine.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #214 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:03:06 AM »

Wiped the engine down with ZEP degreaser last night. Hard to get all the nooks cleaned out. Tonight's plan, in no particular order, is:

1. Go over pistons once more, attach & oil rings (see hondaman book for degrees), clean piston pins
2. Clean cylinder head o-ring ring seats, use heat on remaining dowels
3. Tape up holes & soda blast engine

Going out of town again this weekend so trying to get a lot done during the week nights.

No doubt having this engine stand sure makes the work much faster/easier.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #215 on:** March 25, 2015, 06:31:04 PM »

Used the cheap air compressor soda blasting method to clean my cylinders up tonight. I've got two dowels left in the cylinder holding back my progress. Hit them with a MAP torch this evening for a good while & tried to pull them out with pliers to no avail. Any other ideas?

Pistons are ready for the new rings. I'm not sure which ring goes on top & which on bottom. Both have R's etched on the top of them. One seems to be darker than the other & has a larger space/gap for spreading.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #216 on:** March 25, 2015, 07:04:08 PM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on March 25, 2015, 06:31:04 PM

Used the cheap air compressor soda blasting method to clean my cylinders up tonight. I've got two dowels left in the cylinder holding back my progress. Hit them with a MAP torch this evening for a good while & tried to pull them out with pliers to no avail. Any other ideas?

Pistons are ready for the new rings. I'm not sure which ring goes on top & which on bottom. Both have R's etched on the top of them. One seems to be darker than the other & has a larger space/gap for spreading.

Shinier one goes in top slot. Darker one goes in middle and 3 oil rings go in the bottom.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #217 on:** March 31, 2015, 09:05:44 AM »

Ashamed to say it but I'm still stuck on removing these dowels that are in the front of the jugs. They're the cause for the headache that happened trying to separate the jugs from the cases. The machine shop I took my engine to removed the jugs, but left the dowels in the jugs. The MAP torch with PB blaster & pulling with pliers isn't working. Any suggestions for other techniques I could try? This is all that's holding me up at this point!

calj737 · « **Reply #218 on:** March 31, 2015, 09:07:34 AM »

A left hand bit of "just about" the same size ID of the dowel. Heat the dowel, then slowly turn the left hand drill bit out. Might be just enough friction to grab it and loosen it.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #219 on:** March 31, 2015, 09:52:37 AM »

I have a set of needle-nose channel locks we used. We covered the teeth of the channel-lock part with black electrical tape so it would minimize the marring of the dowel. Then, we locked onto the dowel vertically with one part on the inside of the dowel and another part on the outside.

We soaked with PB Blaster for about a day and then hit it with a propane torch the next day until it was cherry red. Then we pulled left and right, followed by up and down on the dowels.

The downside to this method is you run the risk of deforming the shape of the dowel potentially but ours came out before that happened.

calj737 · « **Reply #220 on:** March 31, 2015, 09:55:51 AM »

yeah, I'm suspecting his dowel will be trashed after extraction and need replacement...

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #221 on:** March 31, 2015, 10:03:12 AM »

Thanks guys. Yes, I already have replacement dowels on hand & ready.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #222 on:** March 31, 2015, 11:00:57 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on March 31, 2015, 10:03:12 AM

Thanks guys. Yes, I already have replacement dowels on hand & ready.

Oh, in that case, then lock some regular channel locks onto that puppy vertically. Hit it with the heat then start tugging to beat the band.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #223 on:** April 22, 2015, 05:24:38 AM »

Still alive up here in Knox. My spring semester has been a barrage of work with the bike left neglected. Just one more week of school & I'll have the month of May off.

I managed to get one of the dowels out by heating & using a spline extractor, but the other one absolutely refuses to budge. I think I'm going to give in for fear of doing any damage & take it to a machine shop for removal.

Davez134 · « **Reply #224 on:** April 22, 2015, 08:19:17 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on April 22, 2015, 05:24:38 AM

Still alive up here in Knox. My spring semester has been a barrage of work with the bike left neglected. Just one more week of school & I'll have the month of May off.

I managed to get one of the dowels out by heating & using a spline extractor, but the other one absolutely refuses to budge. I think I'm going to give in for fear of doing any damage & take it to a machine shop for removal.

Since you already have replacements and don't have to worry about ruining existing dowels, give this a try. Using a small diameter drill bit, drill through the dowel, across the diameter (parallel to deck surface) and leave it there. Then, apply some heat, insert something from other side of the hole, rest it against the drill bit and give it a few taps. The impacts may loosen the dowel up and it will fall out (did for me). Worth a shot, as you wont run anything that isn't already trash anyways.

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Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 97331 times)