Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 97346 times)

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #250 on:** May 14, 2015, 07:03:00 AM »

Nate,
If you plan to use Loctite when you insert the APE studs, make sure you don't use it on the ones that are oil passages.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #251 on:** May 14, 2015, 04:54:37 PM »

The oil holes are the two back center holes only, correct? In the photo below, one has an o-ring & the other doesn't (I have two replacements).

Also, in the photo of my cylinder head, those orange colored rings are removable right? I bought a new set & just want to make sure those are the same thing & meant to be removed. Any tips for how i can get these out? They are jammed in there & I don't wanna do any damage to the exhaust ports.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #252 on:** May 14, 2015, 06:14:45 PM »

Yes, the two rear center ones have oil passages and will need o-rings replaced around them.

The orange colored rings are the copper exhaust gaskets and yes, they need to be removed. Just take a thin, flat-handled screw driver and stick it behind it and pry gently. They'll come out pretty easily. You should have 4 round ones in your Vesrah kit.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #253 on:** May 15, 2015, 11:24:33 AM »

Thanks, Ron. Got those copper rings out no problem. Can't believe how much grime is down in the exhaust & head. I'm gonna tape up/cover the top of the head & intake/exhaust ports then soda blast when I get home tonight.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #254 on:** May 15, 2015, 12:17:34 PM »

If you do soda blast, make sure to clean it thoroughly afterwards. I personally would use vinegar on it after soda blasting because the vinegar dissolves the soda. Then wash it with water and blow it dry thoroughly. You don't want that soda inside the engine.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #255 on:** May 15, 2015, 01:29:52 PM »

Just standard vinegar that I'd buy at the grocery store?

calj737 · « **Reply #256 on:** May 15, 2015, 01:39:22 PM »

White vinegar is all you need. Find it in the laundry aisle or at the Home Center in the cleansers aisle.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #257 on:** May 15, 2015, 01:43:23 PM »

Great. Should I bother taping up the head? Remember the springs, stem seals & valves are all in it already. Or can I just soda blast, vinegar dip, then water dip & air compress dry?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #258 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:03:29 PM »

Made it out to the bike shop on Saturday & managed to get my cylinder dowel hole cleaned up. The dowel now fits in it & I should be good to go.

Also just PMed Elan about one of the oil pump super kits.

Didn't get any replies on my last question regarding cleaning the head, so I'll ask again: Should I bother taping up the head? Remember the springs, stem seals & valves are all in it already. Or can I just soda blast, vinegar dip, then water dip & air compress dry?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #259 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:21:18 PM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on May 18, 2015, 01:03:29 PM

Made it out to the bike shop on Saturday & managed to get my cylinder dowel hole cleaned up. The dowel now fits in it & I should be good to go.

Also just PMed Elan about one of the oil pump super kits.

Didn't get any replies on my last question regarding cleaning the head, so I'll ask again: Should I bother taping up the head? Remember the springs, stem seals & valves are all in it already. Or can I just soda blast, vinegar dip, then water dip & air compress dry?

Hmmm....I'm not sure I would soda blast if the stem seals are in there. I was assuming you had the springs, valve stem guides and valves out of the head if you were going to soda blast it.

If you are going to blast it with those in there...well, in that case, I'd definitely tape up the top of the head so that the springs and seals won't be affected. I don't know if vinegar has any negative effect on the rubber of the valve stem guides but I know I wouldn't want pressurized soda hitting them.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #260 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:24:27 PM »

Thanks, Ron. Yea, that's why I wasn't sure if it was something I should do or not. I may have to find a workaround. I want to paint the head so I need to have it all cleaned up. Any ideas on how to proceed?

calj737 · « **Reply #261 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:57:43 PM »

if you're going to paint, use Oven Cleaner on the alloy. It will degrease it very well and you can rinse it and prime/paint afterwards. Non-abrasive.

It will turn the alloy dark grey, but if your painting....

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #262 on:** May 19, 2015, 05:31:32 AM »

Cool, thanks calj. I'll plan on doing that then.

So the big question remains: to replace the cam chain or not. I've cleaned all my holes out & am ready to install the studs. I imagine it's easiest to install the cam chain, roller, & guide before putting all these studs in. My new cam chain is endless though, & after some replies in SOHC bikes part of the forum, I know there's no way I'm skilled enough to try breaking it & redoing it just so I don't have to break open the cases.

That said, what would you guys do? Just install the new roller & guide & keep the old cam chain?

Or, split the cases just to put in a new chain? If I split the cases, aren't there a couple specific tools I need, for example, one to take the rotor out?

Appreciate your thoughts!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #263 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:44:51 AM »

How many miles are on the current cam chain, Nate?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #264 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:48:27 AM »

Just under 25k.

Is this the spanner that works for our years, Ron? http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0015/ or perhaps a better question, which extra tools did you purchase in order to deal with the rotor & clutch?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #265 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:00:29 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on May 19, 2015, 07:48:27 AM

Just under 25k.

Is this the spanner that works for our years, Ron? http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0015/ or perhaps a better question, which extra tools did you purchase in order to deal with the rotor & clutch?

Yep, that's what my clutch tool looks like.

If there's only 25,000 miles on that cam chain and you're only trying to do a top end, then I wouldn't break open the cases just to replace the cam chain personally. But that's just one idiot's opinion, FYI.

To pull the rotor assembly, you'll need something else. I purchased the Motion Pro Flywheel Puller Bolt. Something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171391547963?lpid=82&chn=ps

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #266 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:07:13 AM »

Haha. To another idiot.

This project has taken long enough. I hate to cut any corners but I really want to ride this summer. Plus, I'm sure I'll redo the engine in a few years when I have the proper resources & means. I'll wait on getting the extra tools to split the case then. Elan is in the middle of moving, so I won't have my oil pump kit until the beginning of next month. Until then, I just focus on getting the top end put back together properly.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #267 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:13:08 AM »

Yeah, I think that's a decent plan. Just finish the top end rebuild and get it going so you can ride this summer. Then, you can always plan to do the lower end rebuild later when it's cold. And you can do that without having to split the top part as well. Just flip it upside down and remove the bottom.

But if you're going to do the bottoms at that point, you can plan on replacing the cam chain, cam chain tensioner pulley, bearings and oil seals. At that point, you should be fully rebuilt on the engine. And you might even want to consider doing the frame mod kit at that point as well.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #268 on:** May 19, 2015, 12:08:02 PM »

Yea, I can definitely see the benefit of the frame mod kits now!

For the cam chain bottom wheel, the pin that fits through the roller has two components, one that locks into a groove in the roller & another larger metal tube piece. They should both face the right hand side if you're looking out at the exhaust, I think. But why do they have holes? Are these just for oiling?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #269 on:** May 19, 2015, 12:15:44 PM »

That's what I assumed when we put ours back together.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #270 on:** May 21, 2015, 05:25:17 AM »

New studs installed. Accidentally installed one with the short end going into the crankcase & had to gently remove it & reinstall. Made sure my oil holes in the back two holes were clear with compressor. Set up the new cam roller, but realized I'll probably have to redo it in order to get the base gasket on. No big deal.

Waiting for some piston circlips to arrive tonight so I can get the pistons back in.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #271 on:** May 21, 2015, 05:47:54 AM »

From BrandEn's Leak Free Top End thread, he states "Now is a good time to remove the four cam tower studs on the head and install the Permatex Thread Sealant to the threads. The holes these are installed are open to atmosphere and can be a source for leaks if not sealed."

So people actually remove the four studs in the head just to put thread sealant on them & then reinstall? Is this something you guys bothered with? Let me know what you think!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #272 on:** May 21, 2015, 01:25:20 PM »

The four studs he's talking about are not the ones that go all the way down through the engine into the lower cases. I believe he's talking about the 4 bolts that are beneath the "rubber pucks" that hold the head down onto the cylinders. And yes, you should absolutely put sealant around those before you put the cam towers onto them.

And I wouldn't say to remove the cam towers just to get to that...but if you're already doing a top end rebuild, you should do it while you're doing the reassembly.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #273 on:** May 27, 2015, 01:45:47 PM »

Yea, that's what I assumed he meant. Thanks, Ron.

I went to walmart during my lunch break today to pick up some oven cleaner, but all the products they had said it wasn't safe for aluminum. Is it still ok to use it on my head, calj737? Appreciate you response.

I'm going to install my pistons to the rods tonight. I bought a ring compressor a couple months ago (http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=79), but I'm not sure I can use it given that the piston rods are still down in the crankcase & not free to move with the pistons.

Dino used the same type of ring compressor in his video here:

But obviously he shows how to do it with the rods already out. Is there a way to use it when your rods are already connected inside the case?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #274 on:** May 27, 2015, 06:49:03 PM »

Just got all four pistons installed on the rods & circlips turned back in place. Any ideas on how to get the jugs back on given that the compressor tool I bought probably won't work since the rods are down in the case?

Has anyone used Hondaman's method of sanding down the inside of metal clamps & compressing that way?

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Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 97346 times)