Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 100042 times)

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #275 on:** June 10, 2015, 04:33:34 PM »

Good news indeed. I'm betting the torque wrench was not "locked down". I would use the original bolts, especially since these are not seen after assembly.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #276 on:** June 11, 2015, 05:30:25 PM »

Borrowed a torque wrench today that automatically locks once you've selected whatever ft-lbs you want. It's idiot proof. Got my nuts & bolts torqued & I'll recheck the torque tomorrow, then start reassembling the head. If I'm lucky I may get to close everything up & start paint prep this weekend. We'll see. Something always waiting around the corner to hold me up.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #277 on:** June 18, 2015, 05:27:12 AM »

Alright, short update. All I have left to assemble/set up in the head is the rocker arms. Received an oil pump rebuild kit from Elan last week so I'll rebuild that in the next couple days as well.

70CB750 · « **Reply #278 on:** June 18, 2015, 05:47:31 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 18, 2015, 05:27:12 AM

Alright, short update. All I have left to assemble/set up in the head is the rocker arms. Received an oil pump rebuild kit from Elan last week so I'll rebuild that in the next couple days as well.

Looking good!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #279 on:** June 18, 2015, 06:10:01 AM »

Quote from: 70CB750 on June 18, 2015, 05:47:31 AM

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 18, 2015, 05:27:12 AM
Alright, short update. All I have left to assemble/set up in the head is the rocker arms. Received an oil pump rebuild kit from Elan last week so I'll rebuild that in the next couple days as well.

Looking good!

Thanks, 70! Never could have gotten this far without this awesome forum or Hondaman's excellent book.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #280 on:** June 18, 2015, 08:15:00 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 18, 2015, 05:27:12 AM

Alright, short update. All I have left to assemble/set up in the head is the rocker arms. Received an oil pump rebuild kit from Elan last week so I'll rebuild that in the next couple days as well.

Very good news there, Nate. Just don't get in a hurry. Take your time and make sure it's done right. Heck, it's almost 100 degrees outside these days anyway so it's even hot when riding on a bike in this weather.

Just make sure it's good to go for the fall time so you and I can go for a ride through the mountains because I'm headed up through there at some point in the fall....probably early October.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #281 on:** June 18, 2015, 08:46:17 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on June 18, 2015, 08:15:00 AM

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 18, 2015, 05:27:12 AM
Alright, short update. All I have left to assemble/set up in the head is the rocker arms. Received an oil pump rebuild kit from Elan last week so I'll rebuild that in the next couple days as well.

Very good news there, Nate. Just don't get in a hurry. Take your time and make sure it's done right. Heck, it's almost 100 degrees outside these days anyway so it's even hot when riding on a bike in this weather.

Just make sure it's good to go for the fall time so you and I can go for a ride through the mountains because I'm headed up through there at some point in the fall....probably early October.

Can't believe how hot it is up here in TN, & I was born & spent most of my life in the FL heat. Really looking forward to you coming up here, Ron!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #282 on:** June 18, 2015, 04:08:08 PM »

Alright guys, here's a newb question for you, hopefully easy to answer. I made a short video explaining what I'm not sure about:

Basically, I'm not sure if my cam is set to the opposite of what it should be. When I set the cam's notch up & the lines are even, then have the timing mark on TDC, I'm able to adjust #4 IN & EX, #3 EX, #2 IN. Shouldn't I instead be able to adjust #1 IN & EX, #2 EX, & #3 IN. If I rotate 360 back to TDC again, I'm able to adjust #1 IN & EX, #2 EX, & #3 IN, but the notch of the cam faces down.

Thanks for clearing this up!

enwri · « **Reply #283 on:** June 18, 2015, 10:28:48 PM »

I confuse myself with the (all tappets in 2 moves method) and if you can see them with the cover off it makes it easier. look for the rockers on 2/3 that are obviously clear of the lobes, I still do the 4 move way. 1-2-4-3
When its on the 1/4 timing mark, one set of cam lobes will be hanging under the cam, (compression.) while its opposite (1 or 4) will be on the top half interfering with the rockers, (overlap).
adjust the ones on 1 or 4, that have the lobes hanging under and away from the rockers. Half a turn of the crank, and another set of lobes somewhere on either 2 or 3, will be hanging under the cam, adjust those, its opposite will be on top interfering with rockers, half a turn (crank) later the 1 or 4 that was on overlap will now have its lobes hanging under the cam, adjust those, half a turn later (crank) the last of 2 or 3 can be set.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #284 on:** June 19, 2015, 02:29:46 PM »

I guess what I mean is: did I install my cam 180 backwards, accidentally install it on the #4 compression stroke instead on #1 compression stroke at 1-4 TDC? I checked again & both my #1 & my #4 rocker arms appear to be loose (I haven't tightened any of them down yet). The lobes of #1 cam point up & slightly outward (upward "V" shape) & the lobes of #4 point down & out (like "^") when I'm at TDC 1-4 & the cam lines match up with the cam tower cap & the notch points up.

Here's a video that demonstrates the rocket arm play

Lucky K0 · « **Reply #285 on:** June 19, 2015, 04:04:34 PM »

Could any of you point me in the direction of Hondaman and his book?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #286 on:** June 19, 2015, 04:15:27 PM »

Quote from: Lucky K0 on June 19, 2015, 04:04:34 PM

Could any of you point me in the direction of Hondaman and his book?

Sure. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

enwri · « **Reply #287 on:** June 19, 2015, 05:54:55 PM »

So that sounds like TDC compression on No.4, so you may have installed it 180 out.
Don't worry, you can fix it
As long as the timing marks on the cam are right, or exactly 180 degrees out, it will be safe to turn over. (or if the tappets are so loose they never push valves down)
if they show anything else you run the risk of touching valves to pistons. if you feel any solid resistance, stop. (You wont unless you left a bolt or something on top of a piston.)
You can't over adjust the valves too far unless you keep screwing the tappet adjuster down after it has touched the valve, and then kept going and compressed the spring as well.

Turn the crank forward 360 for TDC No.1, or adjust them by the book method but start with the No.4 set.

enwri · « **Reply #288 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:01:31 PM »

Did anyone mention your new compression ratio ,or valve clearancing problems with you decked block or head?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #289 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:05:48 PM »

Quote from: enwri on June 19, 2015, 06:01:31 PM

Did anyone mention your new compression ratio ,or valve clearancing problems with you decked block or head?

No, never heard about any issues. They said everything checked out fine.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #290 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:31:43 PM »

Found from another thread on the forum: "When starting those adjustments the trick is to make sure that cylinder #1 is at TDC on its compression stroke, but the manual doesn't really give any info on how to determine this. If #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, both valves will be closed and there will be a little bit of play in the rocker arms. You'll be able to grab the adjusters and move them up and down a tiny amount. Mostly you'll be able to hear them click. If they don't budge, it's TDC on the exhaust stroke. Spin the crank 360 degrees and try again."

My issue seems to be that I can move both #1 IN & EX as well as #4 IN & EX, as you can see in the video I posted. How do I determine which one is one the compression stroke?

enwri · « **Reply #291 on:** June 19, 2015, 08:35:18 PM »

The cylinder with the lobes hanging down /\ is on compression, both valves closed. the ones facing up \/ is supposed to be on overlap. both valves slightly open,( when adjusted properly) exhaust just about to close while intake is just opening.
Rocker arms should all be loose (tappets backed out) for ease of assembly, cam lobe position will tell you what cylinder is doing what.
(lobes up, valves open, lobes down, closed.)

You'll notice that cyl. 2-3 lobes are on the sides, but one of each cylinders rockers will be on the base circle of the lobe, the others will be climbing the lobe. adjust the ones that are not trying to climb the lobe.

say "lobe" enough and it just sounds stupid.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #292 on:** June 20, 2015, 06:46:05 AM »

Ah, I'm confusing myself. If the notch on the end of the cam is supposed to be pointing up while matched to 1-4 T mark, how can you have #1 lobes faving like /\? In order for the notch on the end to face up, the lobes must face like V.

enwri · « **Reply #293 on:** June 20, 2015, 09:23:56 AM »

I had to check my book, think I know what you mean,
This picture is of the end of the cam, notch up, I can see the cam lobes and they are /\ as in No.4 in compression, not No.1.

My book says to then rotate it forward until the No.1 inlet valve goes down and back up, then to stop at the 1-4 mark.
They are assuming the tappets haven't been backed out, and the valve will move at all.

I've never noticed that, I've just had that notch up or down, and looked at the cam to do the rest.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #294 on:** June 20, 2015, 01:14:22 PM »

Alright, so I think I figured it out. I think the cam was 180 from what it should be. I rotated the cam so that #1 cam lobes were facing down. I think this allows the #1 IN & EX valves to be closed, which would be on the compression stroke. Meanwhile, if you look over to #4, the EX lobe has just passed & you're coming up on the IN lobe, for the air/fuel mixture to come in from the carbs.

Once I changed the cam 180 from what it had been, I was able to set the rocker arms as the manuals say. Does this sound right to everybody?

Thanks, calj737 for pushing me to learn this on my own.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #295 on:** June 20, 2015, 02:56:54 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on June 20, 2015, 02:48:20 PM

To confirm this, remove spark plug 1&4 and gently poke a dowel into the chamber, and touch the top of the piston. Compare the depths. Nothing else is absolute proof.

This is a trick from when you assemble a motor, a depth gauge to establish the true TDC of a piston. Use that method, then set your timing marks on the crank. If you establish a mark that you know is accurate on the end of the crank, then when your cam is installed, all you need to do is line up the marks for 1 to be at TDC. You can probe the chamber with a depth gauge and then away you go.

Ok, I'll check again when I get back home. Thanks.

Does anyone have advice on how to remove the center shaft seal in the oil pump? I got a new one from Elan, but the old one refuses to budge at the moment.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #296 on:** June 20, 2015, 05:00:01 PM »

Nevermind, found a method here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,36459.msg1681203.html#msg1681203

Thanks, MCRider!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #297 on:** June 20, 2015, 06:02:23 PM »

Well, not much luck trying the Hondaman/MCRider trick. Definitely scary drilling the shaft seal because it's hard to tell when you're about to go all the way through the seal. Sprayed some PB blaster around it to let it soak after I heated it up a couple minutes with a hair dryer. Guess I'll check it again in the morning. Any tips until then are appreciated!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #298 on:** June 22, 2015, 06:42:16 PM »

Still not able to remove the center shaft seal. My Dad & I put that part of the pump in the freezer for overnight & will try hitting it with a heat gun tomorrow. Maybe that will be enough to get it out. Wish I had just left the original in!

Meanwhile, just cleaned up my spokes & sanded/polished up my forks. Amazing what some sandpaper, steel wool, & a little mothers polish can do to clean things up.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #299 on:** June 23, 2015, 10:26:39 AM »

Alright, center shaft seal is out. I'll get the oil pump back in the engine tonight. Going to do one more check on the pistons as cal recommends above, then I'll close up the engine & strip paint, degrease, & prep for paint. I'm going to spend the next couple nights on that since I've read prep is the most important part. I've degreased the engine a few times since it's been out of the frame, but I have no idea how much clean up there will be after paint strip. Excited about getting everything finalized.

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 100042 times)