Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 100134 times)

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #325 on:** June 28, 2015, 06:08:42 PM »

oohhh pretty

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #326 on:** June 29, 2015, 01:04:56 AM »

Nate,
If you want the bare look, you need to sand them down before you put the clear coat on it.

Really nice job on the paint. It looks fantastic!

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #327 on:** June 29, 2015, 02:54:07 AM »

Thanks guys!

So if I sand down the fins before clear coat, I guess I'd have to clean the engine back up, get all the sanded paint off before applying the clear coat. Can I just wipe it down with acetone to get it clean again? Seems like I'd have to rinse it all down again with a hose.

Also Ron, you suggested not to cure in the hot box after applying the clear coat, but the VHT clear coat can has the same instructions for curing paint as the engine enamel can -- 1 hour at 200 F. Is there a reason for not curing the clear coat in the hotbox? Won't the engine reach this temp when it's back in the bike anyway? Maybe I misunderstood your text.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #328 on:** June 29, 2015, 05:27:04 AM »

Ok guys, here's my plan then:

I'll sand the fins tonight, cover the crankcase & other parts of the engine below the fins to try to keep them clean. My concern is how do I remove the mess I've sanded off so that the paint is still clean for clear coat?

I guess once I'm done sanding I'll clean with air and a damp cloth? Should I reheat the paint again to get all the moisture off before clear coating?

P.S. I saved some advice I wrangled from other threads, hope you guys don't mind I repost it here in case anyone else needs help with sanding fins as well:

Quote from: calj737

To polish the edges of the fins after painting, use a dremeled or sanding block to scrape away the paint. Then green, red, then grey scotch brite pads. One direction for your sanding motion and don't press hard.
...
Sand the fins after the final paint job, it will be easier to keep the paint off them while spraying.

While the prep wasn't perfect before priming, at the end of the day, much of it wont show as the backside is covered by the carbs, and not many eyeball between the fins. Bikes tend to be admired from a few feet away, and the whole appearance of the bike will be beautiful.

Use a sanding block when you attack the fins to help avoid the paper from traveling in between the edges. It will make it much easier to control and you'll come out aces!

Quote from: mkoski

Sure, its actually a really simple process. I didn't really read up on it or anything, I just grabbed some coarse, medium and fine emery cloth (sandpaper would work fine!) and sanded the paint off the fin ends with a sanding block. With the way the fins are cast there are a few high/low spots so I did a bit of sanding without the block as well so that the exposed metal was consistent. One thing I noticed is that I didn't get lines as clean as I hoped where the paint meets the bare metal (big jagged in spots). I will sharpen the lines a bit just by going over them again carefully with fine emery paper again.
...
I should mention my method, actually, as it might help some others out. I first went at it with a block and some medium grit emery cloth to remove most of the paint and then hand sanded with fine emery cloth. This brought it to a decent level but it still wasn't quite to my liking. I decided to try using my 4.5" grinder with a hard foam polishing wheel (which is too hard/fast to polish metal properly) and went along the fins with that. It came out gorgeous. The paint is sanded into really nice lines and the bare aluminum underneath is gleaming.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #329 on:** June 29, 2015, 07:14:17 AM »

Your plan sounds solid, Nate. Just cover the stuff you don't want to sand. Use the sanding block and sand the edges of the fins. You're going to be surprised at how little you're going to have to sand to get the edges of those fins bare of paint.

Once you have them like you want them, use air and a damp cloth, followed by air again to blow all of the dust residue away.

Then you can clear coat. If you're using a VHT clear coat that says to cure it, then by all means use your heat box again to cure the clear coat after it has been applied. I was referring to the clear that we used, which did not require a heat curing.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #330 on:** June 29, 2015, 07:32:13 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on June 29, 2015, 07:14:17 AM

Your plan sounds solid, Nate. Just cover the stuff you don't want to sand. Use the sanding block and sand the edges of the fins. You're going to be surprised at how little you're going to have to sand to get the edges of those fins bare of paint.

Once you have them like you want them, use air and a damp cloth, followed by air again to blow all of the dust residue away.

Then you can clear coat. If you're using a VHT clear coat that says to cure it, then by all means use your heat box again to cure the clear coat after it has been applied. I was referring to the clear that we used, which did not require a heat curing.

Excellent. Thanks, Ron.

I've also gotta get my rear wheel off to replace the sprocket and of course to remove my swingarm and replace bushings there. I don't have sockets large enough to deal with the nuts on the rear wheel and swing arm, so I'll have go to get those tonight. Oh, and I totally forgot that I want to paint the angled piece that sits atop the cam cover (it's been covered up with the rest of the cam). Now I'll have to go buy more paint since I used all my primer and black on the engine.

I also need to get some carb float drain tubes. My bike didn't have any when I bought it, and I'd hate to ruin this paint if I get a leak when I first start the bike back up. I think I've seen flybox1 say that you can use windshield wiper tubes or something for this? I'll have to do some searching, but maybe one you knows right off hand of an alternative to the originals.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #331 on:** June 29, 2015, 11:30:26 AM »

Anyone have an idea why swing arms are so cheap on eBay? I was expecting them to be significantly higher.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #332 on:** June 29, 2015, 03:15:55 PM »

If it's a stock bike, they are not worth much without the rest of the chassis. If you are replacing the stock 750 arm, you may want to swap it out for a 550 arm (approx. 1 inch longer). Or, if you are going FULL restomod, check out the MotoGP Werks/CalFab aluminum swingarms (not cheap), or you can have CMR Racing in Canada make you a boxed-style race arm out of chrome-moly.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #333 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:34:35 AM »

Sanded the fins down last night. I was hoping to clear coat today but there are a couple areas I want to touch up with black paint first. Clear coat will have to wait until tomorrow. The closer things get to completion, the harder it becomes not to rush things. It's really hard to resist right now. I just want it back in the bike so I can see whether or not the rebuild was a success. Life lessons...

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #334 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:47:25 AM »

Thanks, cal!

When I spray the clear coat, should I leave the chrome pieces and polished cam cover taped off? I assume I should only clear coat what I've painted, but just want to be sure.

70CB750 · « **Reply #335 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:51:33 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 30, 2015, 09:34:35 AM

Sanded the fins down last night. I was hoping to clear coat today but there are a couple areas I want to touch up with black paint first. Clear coat will have to wait until tomorrow. The closer things get to completion, the harder it becomes not to rush things. It's really hard to resist right now. I just want it back in the bike so I can see whether or not the rebuild was a success. Life lessons...

Is it gunmetal color?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #336 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:59:49 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on June 30, 2015, 09:48:21 AM

Correct, protect what you don't want cleared. Either remove or cover it.

Are you replacing the stock fasteners? I noticed you left them in place and painted them.

Yes, I have all new fasteners from here: http://www.metrocast.net/~spillane/index_004.htm. So I'll replace those after all the paint is finished.

Quote from: 70CB750 on June 30, 2015, 09:51:33 AM

Is it gunmetal color?

Hey 70, are you referring to the clear coat? Not sure what you mean. Here's the clear coat I have: http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP145-Engine-Enamel-Gloss/dp/B000CPIMW6. It's gloss, so I'm guessing this is going to affect the way the black looks. I used VHT flat black for the paint.

I think I'd like it to have more gloss to the finish. What do you guys think? I have to go pick up more black paint this evening so I could always get a different clear coat too.

70CB750 · « **Reply #337 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:01:05 AM »

No the actual color of the engine.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #338 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:03:28 AM »

Quote from: 70CB750 on June 30, 2015, 10:01:05 AM

No the actual color of the engine.

I just used two cans of VHT flat black SP130. It may appear like gunmetal in some areas because of the way the light hits it. Which is okay with me because my tank has a similar stripe down it.

70CB750 · « **Reply #339 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:04:34 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 30, 2015, 10:03:28 AM

Quote from: 70CB750 on June 30, 2015, 10:01:05 AM
No the actual color of the engine.

I just used two cans of VHT flat black SP130.

I see, thank you.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #340 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:16:59 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on June 30, 2015, 10:04:06 AM

I prefer a satin finish on the engine, personally. I like semi-gloss to gloss on the frames. The satin is a bit more contemporary in my opinion.

Good to know. I'll post a photo once the gloss clear goes on so you guys can see the difference.

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #341 on:** June 30, 2015, 11:03:32 AM »

Looks good, I hope someday mine will look that clean

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #342 on:** June 30, 2015, 04:33:46 PM »

Quote from: Desert-SOHC on June 30, 2015, 11:03:32 AM

Looks good, I hope someday mine will look that clean

Thanks, Desert. Been following your thread the past couple days. Get some pics of your carbs up so we can see what you're dealing with.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #343 on:** June 30, 2015, 04:36:44 PM »

Trying to remove my rear wheel, but having a little trouble. There's a bolt on the brake I can't get loose and I'm also not sure how to remove the bolts for the rear axle. Are the rear axle bolts torqued really high? I gave the left side all the force I could with no luck. Nothing ever wants to just come off on this bike.

Here's a video that might help:

EDIT: My Clymer manual also shows the nut on the axle that has the carter pin being on the right side, not the left. I know the PO put new tires on the bike, did he put the axle in backwards??

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #344 on:** June 30, 2015, 06:13:59 PM »

Nevermind that last post!

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #345 on:** June 30, 2015, 11:04:24 PM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 30, 2015, 06:13:59 PM

Nevermind that last post!

LOL....I usually pull the bottom shock bolts and drop the swingarm.

I'll get some pics up soon but World of Warships is in open beta and I'm in closed beta for Armored Warfare. Sometimes there just isn't enough hours in the day!

I'm also waitin on my manual to show up...never played with these carbs, just screw tops.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #346 on:** July 01, 2015, 05:32:30 AM »

Quote from: Desert-SOHC on June 30, 2015, 11:04:24 PM

LOL....I usually pull the bottom shock bolts and drop the swingarm.

The swing arm pivot bolt isn't threaded all the way through, correct?

I got the nut off & undid the bolts that attach the rear shocks, but can't get the swing arm bolt out. I can turn it & see the threads move on the opposite side, but tapping it with the mallet still won't get it to budge. Is it possible the bolt has a bunch of corrosion built up inside?

Also, how do you guys clean up your rear shocks? Maybe a soak in simple green or metal rescue (I have a similar WD40 rust remover solvent).

70CB750 · « **Reply #347 on:** July 01, 2015, 05:34:57 AM »

Could be corrosion or rock hard grease.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #348 on:** July 01, 2015, 09:56:26 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on July 01, 2015, 05:48:55 AM

If you can, have someone rotate the pivot bolt while you rap on it with a mallet from the other end. It's a sure indication of a lack of grease on the rod and there's likely some corrosion between it and the tube. It will come, just going to require some determined persuasion. But don't lose your patience with it and mangle the end of it.

Raise and lower the arm too intermittently while you rap on it.

Great advice as usual, Cal. Worked well although I had to use a dowel along with the mallet to get the bolt all the way out.

Here are couple photos of the corrosion on my swingarm. I'll degrease it tonight while the touch up black & clear coat on my engine are curing.

Need to search the forums on old bushing removal. If I can get those out tonight as well, I'll plan to try & put new bushings in tomorrow during lunch. Once I've got new bushings in, I'll use these Rustoleum paints I bought to try to convert some of the rust & then do another coat to try to prevent rust in the future.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #349 on:** July 01, 2015, 11:22:27 AM »

Ok, for reference, a few threads on removing old bushings:
- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=102742.0
- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,86931.msg977820.html#msg977820
- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=115405.0

I've been looking at some Hagon shocks. From what I've found, people say standard 750 shocks are ~13" from eye to eye. So maybe something like this would work?: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/13-inch-black-chrome-hagon-road-shocks-eye-to-eye-rear-motorcycle-shock-absorbers.html

Otherwise I'll just clean up these old shocks & use them until maybe winter then change out. I think I'm going to get the engine back in & rebuild most of the rear then go out & ride. It's summer, guys!

Come winter maybe I'll rebuild the front end with new forks, springs, steering bearings, drilled floating rotor, etc.

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville (Read 100134 times)