Topic: 1977 CB750 K7 Resto-mod, Knoxville

[enwri]

in case you have problems clear tubing.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,149344.msg1703658.html#msg1703658

[AintNoEasyWay]

I was under the impression that the raised portion of the counter sprocket goes to the engine, that is unless you have one with the it on both sides.

I thought that the raised portion of my sprocket was facing out when I removed it last night. Can anyone else confirm? Maybe a PO put it on backwards.

I am trying to find some torque values for the bike. I'm not sure what to torque the bolt on this sprocket down to. I don't know if I should follow the standard torque for that size bolt given in the Honda manual since the sprocket turns so often. Any thoughts?

I also need to go back & torque the pan screws on my cam cover down since I wasn't able to find any value for those. Pictured below are standard values from the '78 CB750 manual Ron was kind enough to share.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Are the carbs upside down when you measure the level? It depresses the springs in the needles too much when they are. Tip them on their sides so the floats will hang and just touch the needles without depressing the springs.

You will never really know which float level is best until you clear tube test them individually.
It doesn't take much of a difference in float buoyancy, or a difference in the spring in the end of the needle valve, or maybe even bent floats, to make a big difference in the final level.
Make sure the upper vents are clear and fill the carbs really slowly.

Have to add, setting by the float level was good enough when everything was brand new, newer replacement/aftermarket parts may change things though.
My levels are closer to the 14.5 to keep the level a few mm down from the bowl edge.

Enwri, yes that's with the carbs sitting down flat. I'll put them at an angle tonight & measure again. I'd forgotten that they shouldn't be depressing the needles at all. Good call. Do people just set the bike on the center stand for the clear tube method?

[enwri]

If you check them before they go on, you can adjust them easier if they need it, but yes, the centrestand is better than the sidestand.
The carbs are worth taking time to even up, 4 carbs is like having 4 separate engines sitting side by side and getting them all to run at exactly the same revs.
Closer you can get them, the smoother everything feels.

The slide height, or throttle opening makes the most difference, I've found after fiddling with mine that the throttle adjuster screws can make a difference at less than a sixteenth of a turn.

[enwri]

I was under the impression that the raised portion of the counter sprocket goes to the engine, that is unless you have one with the it on both sides.

That's what I thought as well.
Torque to whatever that size bolt takes I suppose, really don't want the head popping off from overtightening either though., I put locktite on it as well,

[AintNoEasyWay]

I was under the impression that the raised portion of the counter sprocket goes to the engine, that is unless you have one with the it on both sides.

That's what I thought as well.
Torque to whatever that size bolt takes I suppose, really don't want the head popping off from overtightening either though., I put locktite on it as well,

Now that I think about it, kind of makes sense. You would want room between the sprocket & where it sits against that part of the cases. Still can't find it in any diagrams though.

[Desert-SOHC]

I was under the impression that the raised portion of the counter sprocket goes to the engine, that is unless you have one with the it on both sides.

That's what I thought as well.
Torque to whatever that size bolt takes I suppose, really don't want the head popping off from overtightening either though., I put locktite on it as well,

Now that I think about it, kind of makes sense. You would want room between the sprocket & where it sits against that part of the cases. Still can't find it in any diagrams though.

When I asked a question about it, cause mine was backwards and moved on the shaft.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,149142.msg1701179.html#msg1701179

[AintNoEasyWay]

I was under the impression that the raised portion of the counter sprocket goes to the engine, that is unless you have one with the it on both sides.

That's what I thought as well.
Torque to whatever that size bolt takes I suppose, really don't want the head popping off from overtightening either though., I put locktite on it as well,

Now that I think about it, kind of makes sense. You would want room between the sprocket & where it sits against that part of the cases. Still can't find it in any diagrams though.

When I asked a question about it, cause mine was backwards and moved on the shaft.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,149142.msg1701179.html#msg1701179

Yep, just checked at lunch. Definitely put it on backwards. Nice catch!

[Desert-SOHC]

Every now and then!!   

[AintNoEasyWay]

Well, I thought I'd be able to get everything together by tomorrow, but just realized my EK 630 chain didn't come with a master link. I'm hoping I can find a place here in Knoxville that sells one. I'll look around tomorrow.

Tried sanding some rust from my shocks but it's pretty painstaking & i'm not getting great results (the one on the left in the photo below is the one I partially sanded). I was considering getting Hagons, but I think I should save money instead just to make sure everything goes right when I start the bike up. If I have to wait for a master link to come in the mail, maybe I'll dissemble the shocks & soak them in rust remover? Not sure how difficult they are to take apart.

Can I just soak the entire shock in rust remover or would that be a bad idea?

[enwri]

Isn't that the joiner on the end of the chain? the one with "japan" and the clip on it?
 Not sure about exposing the bright chrome shaft and the seal to rust converter.

[Desert-SOHC]

That looks like and "endless chain" to me with a rivet link, and go get some Navel Jelly, paint brush it on the rust and let it sit for 15 minutes or so....wash it off and the rust is gone.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Okay, didn't quite get to start up today unfortunately. So many odds & ends to take care & it ended up taking all day. Naval jelly didn't do much for the shocks. I ended up spending a lot of time sanding them down the best I could for now. I've got a master link for the drive chain but still need to put the rear wheel on & then connect the chain. Still need to attach the exhaust too. Then it will be carbs/air box & start up.

I'll be cleaning bikes all day tomorrow for another guy here in Knox that has a ton of vintage bikes. But if I've still got some energy tomorrow night when I get home, I'll try to at least get the rear wheel & chain set up. If I can get that far, Monday night should definitely be first attempt at start. I'll throw up a video.

[Desert-SOHC]

Sorry to hear the Navel Jelly let you down.....how bout classic coke and aluminum foil. I haven't ever tried it but my buddy swears by it.

[Restoration Fan]

Skip all that work crap.  Get some Metal Rescue and put those shocks in it.  Take it out every 3 or 4 hours and wipe the "sludge" off and then put them back in.  Within 24 hours, they're good to go.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Skip all that work crap.  Get some Metal Rescue and put those shocks in it.  Take it out every 3 or 4 hours and wipe the "sludge" off and then put them back in.  Within 24 hours, they're good to go.

Hey Ron, that's what I was asking last page. I wasn't sure if soaking it in dust remover (I don't have metal rescue, but WD40 makes an equivalent soak that I have: http://wd40specialist.com/products/rust-remover/). I just wasn't sure if this would do damage to the seals or internals of the shocks.

[Restoration Fan]

Hey Ron, that's what I was asking last page. I wasn't sure if soaking it in dust remover (I don't have metal rescue, but WD40 makes an equivalent soak that I have: http://wd40specialist.com/products/rust-remover/). I just wasn't sure if this would do damage to the seals or internals of the shocks.

I don't know if the WD40 one damages seals but I know the Metal Rescue doesn't.  You can get it at a Home Depot near you.  I just entered a couple of different Knoxville zip codes and it was showing Home Depots near those that carried it.

Go to this site and enter your zip code.  It'll give you the nearest Home Depots that carry it.  It'll cost you about $25 for a gallon but you can re-use it over and over.  Just strain it through a paper towel filter between uses to get it back clear.
http://www.metalrescue.com/storeselection.aspx

[Desert-SOHC]

Less work......even better.....and check that out, its even available in California. Where nothing is legal

[AintNoEasyWay]

Carbs & rear wheel are on the bike. But I put the master link clip in the drive chain on backwards & can't manage to get it back off now. Doh!! Any suggestions for removal?

Once I get that switched to the proper direction, I'll throw the exhaust on & try a start up.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Riveted link or clip style? If it's clip style, use a flat blade screw driver and twist it open while you "tap it away". Easier if the rear wheel is locked in place to help you apply pressure and not wrestle with a moving chain.

Clip style. I tried this but maybe my largest screwdriver is too small. I still have slack in the chain so I'll try moving the wheel further back. Thanks, cal.

[enwri]

The 630 is big enough to do with pliers.

[AintNoEasyWay]

The 630 is big enough to do with pliers.

Exactly what I needed. Thanks enwri!

[Desert-SOHC]

I have a really big flat head screwdriver that I use to push the clip back off. Get it in position on the center stand and put it in first, then just tap the screwdriver when it in place and it pops right off.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Switched the master link clip around once I got the right size pliers. Dealt with a bunch of other odds & ends tonight making sure everything is good to go before I put on the oil tank, air box, & exhaust. My dad has been out of town but I'd like him to be around for the start up. I think he'll be able to come by Wednesday night, so we'll try to crank it then.

[Restoration Fan]

Awesome job, Nate.  Looking forward to hearing her fire up!