Topic: 1974 CB350F - First Restoration

[mark9331]

So this morning I was sitting here thinking... I have been so engrossed in the oil bolt and trying to remove it I have no idea what my next steps are!??!?!  I decided to put a list together of what I think everything that needs to happen to get the bike running/road worthy in no particular order:

• Remove Tires
• Replace Tires/Rim Strips/Tubes
• Install Seat
• Clean Exhaust Clamps
• Install Exhaust
• Install Jets in Carbs
• Install Carbs/Air box
• Install Fuel Lines/Overflow Lines
• Install Battery
• Install Throttle Cables
• Clean Master Cylinder
• Clean/Refurb Caliper
• Install Brake Line/Brake Parts
• Install Rear Turn Signals
• Finish Cleaning Tank
• Install New Latch on Tank
• Install Petcock
• Finish Cleaning Chain
• Inspect Sprockets and Hope they are good

It would also be nice to get the tank and side covers painted however this will not stop me from riding her!

Most of this list is very easy to do I think the hard parts for me will be the front brake and tires.  I am hoping this list is close to inclusive but I might not be able to see the forest for the trees.

[calj737]

Looks like a good, comprehensive list of to-do's. Make sure you remove the old exhaust gasket and use a new one to prevent any leaks at the head. Also, apply some anti sieze to the exhaust stud threads. This will make removal in the future much easier, but not prevent properly securing the nuts.

If you are referring the drive sprocket on the engine, use Blue LocTite when installing the bolts. Very important that these don't come loose!

[mark9331]

So this morning I was sitting here thinking... I have been so engrossed in the oil bolt and trying to remove it I have no idea what my next steps are!??!?!  I decided to put a list together of what I think everything that needs to happen to get the bike running/road worthy in no particular order:

• Remove Tires
• Replace Tires/Rim Strips/Tubes
• Install Seat
• Clean Exhaust Clamps
• Install Exhaust
• Install Jets in Carbs
• Install Carbs/Air box
• Install Fuel Lines/Overflow Lines
• Install Battery
• Install Throttle Cables
• Clean Master Cylinder
• Clean/Refurb Caliper
• Install Brake Line/Brake Parts
• Install Rear Turn Signals
• Finish Cleaning Tank
• Install New Latch on Tank
• Install Petcock
• Finish Cleaning Chain
• Inspect Sprockets and Hope they are good

It would also be nice to get the tank and side covers painted however this will not stop me from riding her!

Most of this list is very easy to do I think the hard parts for me will be the front brake and tires.  I am hoping this list is close to inclusive but I might not be able to see the forest for the trees.

I plan this weekend to get the tires and chain/sprockets complete.... Still Trying to figure out what to do about paint... I read some people doing pretty good jobs with rattle can however I also heard that if you get gas on it is no bueno so need to figure something out.

Tires Came!



The Dos Amigas



Some parts left to install

[mark9331]

Some things I did not think about purchasing that I probably need to purchase....

• Gas Cap Pin that connects cap to tank (Need to remove to repaint)
• Exhaust bolt and double sided threaded screw (one is extremely stuck and I cannot get the bullet style bolt off)
• 1 Clip to hold the emblem on (have 3 1 was missing)

Do you guys have any suggestions where I can get this stuff?  I would not need the exhaust pieces if I could get the bolt off... Any suggestions on that?

I know the clip for emblem is on 4into1 but I was hoping to order all at the same place....

[HondanutRider]

You may be able to reuse the gas cap pin.  The stud for the exhaust connection is likely a standard metric threaded one that maybe a dealer or auto parts place would have.  You just need to have the correct length and thread size (excess can be trimmed off); and the middle portion should not be threaded so that it can be tightened into the engine on the one side.  The clip for the emblem is similar to standard ones used for many years in auto application, so again an auto supply place probably can match up.  Otherwise, you are going to have to replace with OEM or specialty parts from a place like David Silver.

[jamesv220820]

wow your digging into the bike fast.  much faster then me lol.  So are you replacing the rear turn signals with OEM ones or are you going for a resto-mod look

[mark9331]

wow your digging into the bike fast.  much faster then me lol.  So are you replacing the rear turn signals with OEM ones or are you going for a resto-mod look

Doing a resto mod type right now.  The main goal was to get her running ASAP and then worry about getting her the way I want.  I actually just picked some cheap black metal ones off of ebay for $15 that will work for now and get her road worthy.  The old ones are really bad looking.

[mark9331]

Updated list of to do's.  I also found someone that would paint my tank and side covers by next weekend so I should be ready for the big reveal Memorial Day!  If my seat comes.... Still not 100% sure about it being here by then but we will see.

I also have a tentative plan on Saturday afternoon to remove the old tires and put the new ones on.  I also am going to plan to complete the rebuild of the front brake assuming the master cylinder doesn't need anything but cleaning.  If it does need more I will need to order parts.... Rufus from 4into1 probably loves me from this build!

I ordered a gas cap replacement pin from Ebay.  I have not gone to AutoZone or anything to check for the emblem cover but I will do that this weekend (plan to change oil on the other bike).  I will also attempt to get the bolt off before I really look into procuring another one.

• Remove Tires
• Replace Tires/Rim Strips/Tubes
• Install Seat
• Clean Exhaust Clamps
• Install Exhaust
• Install Jets in Carbs
• Install Carbs/Air box
• Install Fuel Lines/Overflow Lines
• Install Battery
• Install Throttle Cables
• Clean Master Cylinder
• Clean/Refurb Caliper
• Install Brake Line/Brake Parts
• Install Rear Turn Signals
• Finish Cleaning Tank
• Install New Latch on Tank
• Install Petcock
• Finish Cleaning Chain
• Inspect Sprockets and Hope they are good

Tank and Side Covers looking all nice and ready to be painted!



Looks ready to ride right?



Rear Pads besides being dirty do they look okay?  They worked nicely before rear wheel removal

[calj737]

You need to re-grease the swing arm bushings and the steering head bearings. I didn't notice those on your list.

[mark9331]

You need to re-grease the swing arm bushings and the steering head bearings. I didn't notice those on your list.

Ah good to know.  I will have to look up how to do that but should not be hard... I hope.  I am guessing I should do that before I put the wheels back on.

[mark9331]

Not a lot accomplished today...  I did drop the tank and side covers off to be repainted so that was my major win for the day.  I started to disassemble the master cylinder and I guess you need air to get the cylinder out so I will be taking that tomorrow along with my tires to get those complete.

• Remove Tires
• Replace Tires/Rim Strips/Tubes
• Install Seat
• Clean Exhaust Clamps
• Install Exhaust
• Install Jets in Carbs
• Install Carbs/Air box
• Install Fuel Lines/Overflow Lines
• Install Battery
• Install Throttle Cables
• Clean Master Cylinder
• Clean/Refurb Caliper
• Install Brake Line/Brake Parts
• Install Rear Turn Signals
• Finish Cleaning Tank
• Install New Latch on Tank
• Install Petcock
• Finish Cleaning Chain
• Inspect Sprockets and Hope they are good
• Grease Swing Arm Bushing
• Grease Steering Head Bearings

[calj737]

You need to re-grease the swing arm bushings and the steering head bearings. I didn't notice those on your list.

Ah good to know.  I will have to look up how to do that but should not be hard... I hope.  I am guessing I should do that before I put the wheels back on.

The swing arm can be done with wheels in place. The front is easiest to do with forks out and wheels off. Be aware, there's dozens of tiny steel ball bearings in the upper and lower bearing race. When you open the steering head by sliding the stem down, those balls like to jump out, scatter about the garage floor like roaches in the kitchen and hide from you. A soft towel laid below helps catch them and corral them.

Do find the process in your manual so it is done properly. It may take an extra set of hands to loosen the front end up and wrangle the forks/steering head while holding the bike very steady. Inspect the balls for "flat spots" or misshapen appearance. They wear after years of improper greasing.

[jamesv220820]

You need to re-grease the swing arm bushings and the steering head bearings. I didn't notice those on your list.

Ah good to know.  I will have to look up how to do that but should not be hard... I hope.  I am guessing I should do that before I put the wheels back on.

The swing arm can be done with wheels in place. The front is easiest to do with forks out and wheels off. Be aware, there's dozens of tiny steel ball bearings in the upper and lower bearing race. When you open the steering head by sliding the stem down, those balls like to jump out, scatter about the garage floor like roaches in the kitchen and hide from you. A soft towel laid below helps catch them and corral them.

Do find the process in your manual so it is done properly. It may take an extra set of hands to loosen the front end up and wrangle the forks/steering head while holding the bike very steady. Inspect the balls for "flat spots" or misshapen appearance. They wear after years of improper greasing.

Ha I still find those little steel balls on occasion in my workspace!

[mark9331]

I mounted and balanced the wheels today.  It was a pretty cool experience as I have never done it before.  Relatively easy but still pretty cool.  The rear tire is more enduro that I would have liked however it will work for a season or two.

The master cylinder was a pain the butt to get apart.  I ended up ripping it apart and ordering a new one as I couldn't get it to budge with air pressure.

I am still struggling to get the piston out of the brake.  Applied about 60 lbs of air pressure to it but it did not budge.  It is not frozen since with a c clamp I was able to compress it.  I read on one of the forums I might need to use 80 to 100 lbs of pressure does that sound right?

Not sure how to clean the exhaust clamps.  You can tell they used to be shiny but they are rusted now.  I tried soak in simple green but that seemed to do nothing.

• Remove Tires
• Replace Tires/Rim Strips/Tubes
• Install Seat
• Clean Exhaust Clamps
• Install Exhaust
• Install Jets in Carbs
• Install Carbs/Air box
• Install Fuel Lines/Overflow Lines
• Install Battery
• Install Throttle Cables
• Clean Master Cylinder
• Rebuild Master Cylinder
• Clean/Refurb Caliper
• Install Brake Line/Brake Parts
• Install Rear Turn Signals
• Finish Cleaning Tank
• Install New Latch on Tank
• Install Petcock
• Finish Cleaning Chain
• Inspect Sprockets and Hope they are good
• Grease Swing Arm Bushing
• Grease Steering Head Bearing

Old Rear Tire on the Changer



Front Rim... The insides were a little rusted so we lined with duct tape and the rim strips to help.



Balancing the Front Tire.  it was perfectly balanced without doing anything.



Front Tire Re Installed on bike after some TLC.  The PO must have not used rim protectors to change the tires since there are scratches but it will work for now.

[calj737]

You can soak the flanges in EvapoRust or have someone bead blast them. Then repaint with high temp exhaust paint.

[krusty]

Using air to get the brake piston out can be dangerous. Using a grease gun is much more efficient and eliminates the risk of a flying piston. Search threads on how to do it.

[mark9331]

You can soak the flanges in EvapoRust or have someone bead blast them. Then repaint with high temp exhaust paint.

Wow I have never heard of EvapoRust and just searched to see before and after pictures.... Definitely going to pick this up and try it!

[mark9331]

Using air to get the brake piston out can be dangerous. Using a grease gun is much more efficient and eliminates the risk of a flying piston. Search threads on how to do it.

That's why I love you guys!!!!!  Tons more experience than me.  I am guessing grease guns are relatively cheap so I will have to try this.

[calj737]

You'll need to make an adapter fitting from the grease gun to the front caliper where the piston is stuck. Standard grease gun fittings may not fit.

If this is not convenient, try soaking the piston-side of the caliper in Acetone. That may loosen up the corrosion holding it in enough to pump it out with the master cylinder (you'd have to reconnect the lines and bleed them if disconnected). Use the hydraulic pressure to push the piston out.

The caliper body is aluminum and the piston is steel. There's a square grooved O-ring that is the hydraulic seal. That groove must be spotless upon reassembly. Use some brake assembly lube to grease the seal. The piston needs to be spotless and smooth with not pitting to function properly.

Good luck!

[krusty]

With the grease gun I used I just removed the nozzle bit then wrapped the thread with plumbers tape. It was then a nice fit gently screwed into the caliper.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You can soak the flanges in EvapoRust or have someone bead blast them. Then repaint with high temp exhaust paint.

Wow I have never heard of EvapoRust and just searched to see before and after pictures.... Definitely going to pick this up and try it!

Evaporust works pretty well -- not as nasty as some other products (more environmentally friendly).

[mark9331]

You can soak the flanges in EvapoRust or have someone bead blast them. Then repaint with high temp exhaust paint.

Wow I have never heard of EvapoRust and just searched to see before and after pictures.... Definitely going to pick this up and try it!

Evaporust works pretty well -- not as nasty as some other products (more environmentally friendly).

Where can I pick up Evaporust?  I went to Walmart thinking it would be there but no dice... Suggestions?

[calj737]

Home centers and Auto Parts stores usually have it widely available.

[mark9331]

Home centers and Auto Parts stores usually have it widely available.

Since I could not find it yesterday I was thinking to myself last night.  I thought about the gas tank and why vinegar would not work on the clamps... So I tested one out and put it in vinegar over night (figured I would be out about $30 if it did not work).  I came home from work today and looked at the clamp.  It definitely was not rust free but it was considerably better than the previous night.  I figured since I had some vinegar left over I might as well attempt to soak them for a couple days and see if I could save myself some money.  I will keep you guys updated on that!

Tonight I already started cleaning the rear tire and going to look up how to grease the swing arm while the wheel is off... I know it is not required to have the wheel off but I thought it might be easier and less messy.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Home centers and Auto Parts stores usually have it widely available.

Since I could not find it yesterday I was thinking to myself last night.  I thought about the gas tank and why vinegar would not work on the clamps... So I tested one out and put it in vinegar over night (figured I would be out about $30 if it did not work).  I came home from work today and looked at the clamp.  It definitely was not rust free but it was considerably better than the previous night.  I figured since I had some vinegar left over I might as well attempt to soak them for a couple days and see if I could save myself some money.  I will keep you guys updated on that!

Tonight I already started cleaning the rear tire and going to look up how to grease the swing arm while the wheel is off... I know it is not required to have the wheel off but I thought it might be easier and less messy.

If you need it in the future, Harbor Freight carries it.