Author Topic: Vast assortment of Russ Collins products (Read 11386 times)

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #25 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:02:40 PM »

yeah, for those types of prices I would gladly just hang on to them.. I got many years to figure it out.. As being one of the younger guys on here i'm sure

But you guys have been awesome and a great source of information.

And don't forget, this was all to rebuild this bike and bring it back to life..just happen to come with alot of amazing stuff

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #26 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:03:51 PM »

And yes, I am aware that Jr(sorcerer) is here..

Just spent two days reading all 97 pages of his rebuild thread

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #27 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:06:37 PM »

Quote from: TreyAllen on April 27, 2014, 07:03:51 PM

And yes, I am aware that Jr(sorcerer) is here..

Just spent two days reading all 97 pages of his rebuild thread

How good is that....

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #28 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:18:36 PM »

I would say it's "golden"

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #29 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:36:37 PM »

Well, good luck, $250.00, damn, I sold 3 yrs ago to 754 a RC Weber setup complete with a better manifold for $275.00. And yes that was too cheap.I just bought Webers complete with that same RC manifold for $500.00. And you still want 2.5 times what was suggested! Wow. The rods are gold in color, not material!

Keep us posted with your build, but if you're going to use these parts check them carefully! Yours or someone's life is riding on it. And as an engine builder, if Im spending $1000.00 for rods, you can bet I'd rather have one NEW set of Carillos than two of the 30 year old rod sets you have or the two sets like Jr.got. Ask Mike Rieck, Jay, Kenny any of the people building these, old is old!

Bill

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #30 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:43:35 PM »

You guys just asked for prices

I also added a OBO, witch no one has given a better offer..

Obviously there is a demand for this stuff, either for use or nolstagia.. Either way, I'm going to keep it all for now except the weber manifold and i'm sure it will go for $100 to $200..

But, AGAIN.. thanks for all the pick ups and advice.. this is gonna be a sweet project and i have some awesome stuff to hang up around the shop!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #31 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:49:32 PM »

It will! Take a hundred I'll buy it now!

Bill

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #32 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:56:33 PM »

I'll think about it Bill

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #33 on:** April 27, 2014, 08:07:19 PM »

K, just let me know, I'll pay shipping. And I'll put it to good use.

Don R · « **Reply #34 on:** April 27, 2014, 09:21:26 PM »

If you are really going to Bonneville with a cb750 turbo you're going to need a few spare parts. I'd hang on to them.

scottly · « **Reply #35 on:** April 27, 2014, 09:41:53 PM »

Quote from: Don R on April 27, 2014, 09:21:26 PM

If you are really going to Bonneville with a cb750 turbo you're going to need a few spare parts. I'd hang on to them.

I was just thinking the same thing, Don.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #36 on:** April 27, 2014, 10:01:54 PM »

Yeah, I wasn't too hot to sell anything yet..So you are very right sir..
And the goal was to have two motors, possible even one turbo set up, one without..

But I can promise you.. I will be at Bonneville this year on a Turbo750..

And I am always looking for some type of supercharger for a 750, would possibly trade the *ARD + other things for one

scottly · « **Reply #37 on:** April 27, 2014, 10:31:26 PM »

Trey, what are the bore diameters on the different jugs?
Have you identified any of the cams yet? Most, but not all, performance cams have numbers stamped into one end of the cam.
Have you measured the stroke of any of the cranks?
Do you have the throttle linkage for the RC Weber manifold?
If you expect to get top dollar, or even use the parts yourself, you must first figure out what you have.

BTW, aluminum rods are best suited for short-term, high output racing applications, as they tend to suffer from fatigue over time.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #38 on:** April 27, 2014, 11:01:40 PM »

Well found Trey, don't sell any of that stuff unless you need to, I sold lots of RC stuff last year and (almost) wish I didn't. Don't look at what's cast on the cams, take the bolt out of the end of the cam, remove the thrust washer and read the numbers/letters that have been stamped on the end. Cheers, Terry.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #39 on:** April 27, 2014, 11:20:49 PM »

Thanks Terry,

P8586 34b is the first one

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #40 on:** April 27, 2014, 11:28:58 PM »

No worries, and the only exception to the above rule is if you find "POP Y" stamped/cast on your cam, that means it was made by a certain Mr Yoshimura.........

johno · « **Reply #41 on:** April 28, 2014, 01:38:44 AM »

Trey,
100% supports Don advice on two motors if you go to the salt !

5 to 9 miles of full throttle is the most engine destroying fun earth, makes a hard day on the dyno or a blast over 400 yards look like a warm up.

Thinking if you have the time and the engine is set up on the dyno use a basic engine while you do the rookie runs to get qualified on day one, get as many GPS track runs you can on the first one or two days, get really tuned into gearing, handling, then second arvo and night swap the engines and gearing , then get out on the big boy track day 3 , you will be so tired from camping and partying , sunburn etc that you wont be worried about getting into a bit of a tank slapper around 170mph

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #42 on:** April 28, 2014, 04:41:17 AM »

Agree, figure out what you got and what YOU might need. I'm hoping you make the salt with a T/C 750, or any 750! K. This forum your best friend for help etc. Good Luck! Bill

saltcitycafe · « **Reply #43 on:** April 28, 2014, 05:50:38 AM »

That is awesome, I am building a 71 and I am long time salt junky. I am 35 and have been out there fore probably 25 of that lol. If you need some pit crew help for the first weekend let me know I will be out there.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #44 on:** April 28, 2014, 06:50:19 AM »

Yeah, most would consider this a long shot, I'm fortunate enough to work on these old Honda's for a living, so I have about 100 days to build, and build, and build!!

I'm gonna NEED all the help/advice I can get.. I look very forward to meeting all of you this year out at the flats, and anyone that's willing to help me make this dream happen is more than welcome to be a part

Stev-o · « **Reply #45 on:** April 28, 2014, 06:52:51 AM »

Trey - how soon do you need the frame? Not sure if I'll have time this week to make it down to NB? I could meet you in S. Aus or Buda any day though.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #46 on:** April 28, 2014, 06:55:33 AM »

It's whenever Stev-o, This project had a modified 72' frame. I just wanted that other one so I can start a street bike.

I can meet up if you like, but I figured you'd like to come down and look around to find something ya like/need..

just let me know bud!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #47 on:** April 28, 2014, 07:28:46 AM »

Steve's going shopping!

kmb69 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 28, 2014, 08:46:00 AM »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on April 27, 2014, 06:58:40 PM

Besides everything mentioned here you can get brand new Carillo rods for under a grand with warranty, Cycle x super rods for under $600 and fresh machined cranks from APE and Cycle X for a couple of hundred dollars up too $500 and thats warranted parts. Last Year i bought a second hand set of Carillo rods {better than 40 year old golden rods} and after receiving them they were no good to use ....

Check this whole page out to give you an idea...

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Cranshfts%20and%20Connecting%20Rods%20Page.htm

Like Retro, I don't get the clamor for this 40 year old performance stuff unless it's nostalgic for the mantle. Yes, it was the bomb in the day but today's current offerings from JMR, Cycle-X, and APE are vastly superior IMO. My .02

dragracer · « **Reply #49 on:** April 28, 2014, 09:09:33 AM »

Quote from: kmb69 on April 28, 2014, 08:46:00 AM

Quote from: Retro Rocket on April 27, 2014, 06:58:40 PM
Besides everything mentioned here you can get brand new Carillo rods for under a grand with warranty, Cycle x super rods for under $600 and fresh machined cranks from APE and Cycle X for a couple of hundred dollars up too $500 and thats warranted parts. Last Year i bought a second hand set of Carillo rods {better than 40 year old golden rods} and after receiving them they were no good to use ....

Check this whole page out to give you an idea...

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Cranshfts%20and%20Connecting%20Rods%20Page.htm
Like Retro, I don't get the clamor for this 40 year old performance stuff unless it's nostalgic for the mantle. Yes, it was the bomb in the day but today's current offerings from JMR, Cycle-X, and APE are vastly superior IMO. My .02

I agree 100%. But then I just drag race- modern electronics and up to date rods/pistons give the best bang for the buck. On the other hand, there is a market for all of the parts this young man has on hand. Someone out there will buy it and maybe even pay the prices he is asking. You guys did a great job of explaining to him what the marketability is for members on this forum and I'm sure he appreciates the advice. Try to temper the responses a bit fellas- we don't want to run him off. Lol.

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Author Topic: Vast assortment of Russ Collins products (Read 11386 times)