Topic: The Patina Bike, Stev-o's '71 CB500

[Stev-o]

Picked this up a few weeks ago from a forum member for $500, thanks Sean.

Had an awesome seat and ape hanger bars, and some nice crash bars!

Here's how she looked when I got er home...




The bike came with original paint on the tank and side covers, Sean was nice enough to pack them up for the shipment from IL.

Took off all those fabulous aftermarket parts, slapped on the tank, side covers, some bars I had on the shelf and an original seat I bought on ebay.

Instant restoration!

[Stev-o]

This will not be a frame off restoration, more of a survivor rider.  There is minor surface rust but nothing major. The exhaust has a couple minor holes, after I get it running I will decide if a repair is in order.

The tank is pretty good, minor rust inside so I will seal it with Caswell epoxy to ensure the little rust flakes dont make it into the carbs.

Speaking of, just pulled the carbs, look how the PO ran the fuel lines?!

[calj737]

More like "Instant Resurrection".

[dave500]

that was too easy like it!thats how the fuel lines run,through those forward holes?

[harisuluv]

King and queen spotted!

[Retro Rocket]

This will not be a frame off restoration, more of a survivor rider.  There is minor surface rust but nothing major. The exhaust has a couple minor holes, after I get it running I will decide if a repair is in order.

The tank is pretty good, minor rust inside so I will seal it with Caswell epoxy to ensure the little rust flakes dont make it into the carbs.

Speaking of, just pulled the carbs, look how the PO ran the fuel lines?!

Gday Steve, do you have a radiator repair place close..? They can clean that tank for you spotless {you probably could too}, without the need for a bloody liner....

[Stev-o]

that was too easy like it!thats how the fuel lines run,through those forward holes?

So the fuel lines run through the carb stay plate?

[riverfever]

That's how mine were Steve-O.

When I pulled them off:


After the rebuild:

[deafcaferacer]

Subscribed.

[MoMo]

fuel line routing is correct Stev-0

[Stev-o]

Good to know, thanks guys. 

Mick - I have talked to a radiator shop, they said they count be responsible for paint, so that is out on this on. 

Ok, CB500 experts......take a look at the left side, everything look normal? The bike came with the cover off, which concerns me. I've read all about the clutch issues on the 500....





Yes, I know, the shifter is not on correct (did you notice?!).  I put it on, the Trans is shifting normally.
I cannot push the clutch rod in, is that normal?

Yes, Lucky, I have the printed manual and will confirm I have all parts and put the cover on and test.

[Retro Rocket]

Good to know, thanks guys. 

Mick - I have talked to a radiator shop, they said they count be responsible for paint, so that is out on this on. 

Ok, CB500 experts......take a look at the left side, everything look normal? The bike came with the cover off, which concerns me. I've read all about the clutch issues on the 500....





Yes, I know, the shifter is not on correct (did you notice?!).  I put it on, the Trans is shifting normally.
I cannot push the clutch rod in, is that normal?

Yes, Lucky, I have the printed manual and will confirm I have all parts and put the cover on and test.

Forgot about paint...  Ask Dave 500 about the 500, he's really knows his stuff..

[calj737]

The rod is rumored to be susceptible to breakage. It's operated by a lever on the left side, so I'm not sure if you can push them by hand or not.

If your rod is shot, let me know; I just made 2 new ones from SS last week (1 for me, 1 spare).

[dave500]

that rod should pull straight out,you wont be able to push it in as your trying to release the clutch pressure plate springs by hand then.

[Stev-o]

that rod should pull straight out,you wont be able to push it in as your trying to release the clutch pressure plate springs by hand then.

Yes, it pulls out, no apparent damage.  Is that the weak link, been reading that they tend to break?

[calj737]

Yep, that's the one. Maybe Dave can explain why there are "grooves" along its length in different places. The parts fiche doesn't indicate any installed pieces on it.

FYI, the shaft appears to aluminum, the rod ends are steel, pressed into the shaft. Curious construction...

[goldarrow]

Yes that rod tends to break, it should be about 10-ish inches long.  The fat adjusting screw on the cover is commonly break and hard to find also

[Stev-o]

Yep, that's the one. Maybe Dave can explain why there are "grooves" along its length in different places. The parts fiche doesn't indicate any installed pieces on it.

FYI, the shaft appears to aluminum, the rod ends are steel, pressed into the shaft. Curious construction...

Yes, I noticed the grooves, first thought was they could hold lube?

Yes that rod tends to break, it should be about 10-ish inches long.  The fat adjusting screw on the cover is commonly break and hard to find also

The cover and associated parts came in a box, I'll be inspecting them later today. 


Thanks all.

[bwaller]

Spend some time on the actuator in the cover. Clean & grease and remember there's a ball bearing inside that contacts the end of the clutch rod.

[dave500]

the mechanism is a sort of cork screw,the male part is steel and has a lever for the cable on it,its only peened on check if its action is sloppy and repeen or tack weld it,the female part is a zinc alloy thing and often its cracked on the end,this allows the male part some up and down movement sometimes this might help snap the rod?the female part is still available new,it has a dust cover aswell that's often missing,you should have a little cast steel fork that locks the female to the cover once adjusted,the ball drops into the hole at the lever end of the male part.

[70CB750]

Patina bike is like 35 year old woman, well broken in, very rideable and you don't have to worry about scratches.

Pardon my BSing, I am bottling wine, it always gets me in mood

[bwaller]

the mechanism is a sort of cork screw,the male part is steel and has a lever for the cable on it,its only peened on check if its action is sloppy and repeen or tack weld it,the female part is a zinc alloy thing and often its cracked on the end,this allows the male part some up and down movement sometimes this might help snap the rod?the female part is still available new,it has a dust cover aswell that's often missing,you should have a little cast steel fork that locks the female to the cover once adjusted,the ball drops into the hole at the lever end of the male part.

Careful dave, this is almost pornographic. Think of the kids. 

[Stev-o]

the male part is steel, its only peened.
if its action is sloppy, the female part is often cracked, this allows the male part some up and down movement
the female part is still often missing, the ball drops into the hole at end of the male part.

FTFY            OUCH!

[Stev-o]

Ok, now that Dave has made us laugh, I have a question.

The crankcase cover and the clutch adjuster came in a box with the bike, took it out and gave it a quick clean up.

I now understand how the assembly works, pretty simple. Removed the clutch adjuster, cleaned and reinstalled. Installed the case protector and seem to have all the parts. Hows it look? [other than still dirty and not oriented correctly]



Dave says the piece [#6] "locks the female to the cover once adjusted", do I install and tighten it, then adjust the cable?

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2559635&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1971&fveh=132829

Thanks for your help

[goldarrow]

When you take it apart for cleaning, be very careful part #5.  When I did mine, it literally broke in between my fingers