Topic: Classic KONI 76-1296 shocks

[Markcb750]

I have a set of these classic performance shocks that with the help of some friends and forum members I have managed to return to operational condition.  

They have two adjustments, one can only be adjusted with the shock disassembled, compression, the other can be adjusted with the shaft bottomed out, rebound.

Anyone have a suggestion for how much compression damping I should dial in?  How should it be set relative to the rebound damping?

Thanks


Mark


* BTW these shocks do not have the external damping adjustments of the current Ikon 7610 shocks.

[turboguzzi]

in a nutshell, compression force should feel very light compared to extension/rebound when you pump the shock by hand (without spring of course)

if you disassembled and changed oil, i think that only a test ride will let you understand if you are in the ball park.

unless you have access to a shock dyno, that is....

TG

[Markcb750]

Thanks Turbo, that is the way I have the first set up, wanted some conformation before I put the second together.


My shock dyno is my butt as you guessed!

[Markcb750]

Just waiting for the springs to be returned from powder coating.
Chroming the springs was $75 each, seemed crazy so off to powder.

The shrouds and (missing from photo) progressive springs are from a 1970 BMW
The bottom spring spacers are SS turned on Nikkisixx's lathe.
The upper bumpers are from an old set of CB 750 stock shocks.

[Markcb750]

Here they are ready to install

thanks to Wookie for the replacement piston!

[DH]

I have a set of these classic performance shocks that with the help of some friends and forum members I have managed to return to operational condition.  

They have two adjustments, one can only be adjusted with the shock disassembled, compression, the other can be adjusted with the shaft bottomed out, rebound.

Anyone have a suggestion for how much compression damping I should dial in?  How should it be set relative to the rebound damping?

Thanks







Mark, how difficult is it to make the compression adjustment once the shock is disassembled? I have a set of these, and one of em works good, while the other one will "freefall" for an inch or so before compression dampiing begins. Any suggestions?
Oil level is equal (new oil) and shocks have been apart and cleaned. They were gummed up when bought NOS a few years ago, still cant get the one to work right..

[Markcb750]

Have you made sure the control orifices in both the piston (1) and compression damper (4) are cleaned out?  I found I could not get consistent operation until I cleaned out these holes.

There are three steel washers spaced by three tiny spacers on the bottom damper. From a fresh disassembly they alternate starting with one against the damper body.

I found the best setting was with the center screw snugged then backed off until the outer washer was clear a few thousands from the damper body.  It took several assemble & test with small adjustments out each time to find this position.

You can create a lot of compression damping by turning the screw in just 1/4 turn, more then I wanted for street riding. Turboguzzi's comment confirmed this for me.

I found they work best with the shock body about 80% full with oil before the shaft & piston is installed.  I used 10w fork oil; what are you using?

[DH]

thanks for the information. I'm new to rebuilding shocks, and only have an old koni parts diagram to go by. I will check the areas you mentioned for problems/restrictions. I'm using ATF (Valvoline max life). I started with 10w fork oil, but lost a lot of it dis assembling/re assembling, thus the ATF.

[Markcb750]

I have heard others say they use ATF.

I had to thin the nose of a 7mm socket on a grinder to make a tool to remove the locknut on the compression damper. 

[rangelov]

ATF should work.  ATF is highly detergent oil.

Dexron is equivalent to SAE 7.5.

Type F is equivalent to SAE 11.

FWIW, some service manuals recommend ATF as front fork fluid.  Not necesarily Honda.

HTH, Dimitar

[Phil]

As a point of interest - Bel-Ray used to offer a special "shock oil", as opposed to fork oils. It was called LT100, if my memory serves me well. ATF, etc. is different from fork oils and rear shock oils I think. I also recall racers in the '70s and '80s mixing fork oils together in the belief that SAE 10 + SAE 15 = SAE 12.5, and diluting them! I would be interested to know what people like Maxton use and I doubt it is ATF!

[rhaagusa]

Just want to let you all know I have any early KONI parts and service available. Robert Haag/ Konimon  rahaagusa@ yahoo.com

[rhaagusa]

Just want to let you all know I have any early KONI parts and service available. Robert Haag/ Konimon  rahaagusa@ yahoo.com

[simon#42]

nothing wrong with blending oils at all although the lighter the oil you can use the less aeration you get . this is why ohlins , wp , maxton usually use either 2.5 or 5 wt oil and alter the damping holes and shim stacks to suit .
on a low powered bike tg is right you want as little damping as you can get away with , on very high powered bikes i would increase the rear compression damping to stop the rear of the bike squatting to much when accelerating .

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Koni sponsored me with shocks in early road racing days. Have 4 or so shocks from the day. Would need rebuilding, blew the oil seal at Road Atlanta or Roebling Road. Long time ago. Can post some pics, one has a bent rod from someone trying to take me out in turn 7 @ Road A! Bill

[ratrap]

Just want to let you all know I have any early KONI parts and service available. Robert Haag/ Konimon  rahaagusa@ yahoo.com

You email address bounces!!