Topic: RE Torqueing for Dummies

[Blackhole]

I am looking for some re torqueing for dummies help...a quick step by step type of thing that would answer things like ...
Do you loosen the nuts before re torqueing?
If so how much?
Do you step it down or do it all at once...in reverse order of course.
I just dont want to take the bike apart and try again for a fourth time

It is a 78 CB750K

I have read a bunch of posts but it seems like everyone has there own way of doing this or not doing it at all.
Thanks for the help

[donny]

  I am no pro, but go to YouTube...there should be plenty of how to videos.

[Stoli]

I recently did the research on this and like you, found there were a lot of techniques but after reading a lot, I concluded that the recommended way was to loosen (all the way) in reverse order (as if you were removing the head), then retorque. And the recommended way to retorque was in 3 or 4 increments up to your max.

[Kevin D]

 I was coached by an expert to tighten down the head, then let it sit overnight. Then, loosen each nut about 1/2 turn, in proper tightening order, and retorque to the proper torque.
 
On my own I got my hands on the best torque wrench I could find.
 I retorqued twice.
 overtightened stock studs a bit to 18ft/lb.
 Used viton x-rings on the center rear oil supply studs.

 Six years/15000 miles no leaks

[Blackhole]

Did you loosen them all at the same time or one at  a time and now after watching some You tube videos I have questions about regular order or reverse?  Which should it be?

[madmtnmotors]

I was coached by an expert to tighten down the head, then let it sit overnight. Then, loosen each nut about 1/2 turn, in proper tightening order, and retorque to the proper torque.
 
On my own I got my hands on the best torque wrench I could find.
 I retorqued twice.
 overtightened stock studs a bit to 18ft/lb.
 Used viton x-rings on the center rear oil supply studs.

 Six years/15000 miles no leaks

+1

Of course, I only went to 15lbs, also leak-free. Also agree with the quality torque wrench.

Did you loosen them all at the same time or one at  a time and now after watching some You tube videos I have questions about regular order or reverse?  Which should it be?

You would need a lot of wrenches to loosen them all at the same time!    Not to mention a few more fingers.... 

My logic led me to loosen them in reverse order, in steps (about 1/4 turn at a time) until they all are loose. Then re-torque.

Easy-peasy. 

[madmtnmotors]

If you do feel the need for greater torque, upgrade to HD studs and nuts.

+1

[Blackhole]

Remember this is "Re torquing for dummies" and I just want to get this right tonight...so I loosen the bolts "one at a time " in reverse order untill they are all 1/4 to 1/2 then torque them to 15 ft/lbs in the correct order.  Do you step it up or go right to 15 ft.lbs?  Thanks for the help

[PeWe]

Most important: Use a torque wrench that is correct. Many click wrenches are incorrect and you need to know how to use a click wrench. If you handle it too quick and abrupt the torque can be snapped far too high even if the wrench is checked and correct.  I remember + 25-30% when I was shown this at my job many years ago

Oil in the threads and under the nut. No oil will end up in less torque pressing the parts together, thread/nut friction will consume that force.

HD studs will not withstand plenty of torque. Good thing with these is the rigidity, not flexing and keep torque better.

I over torqued a HD stud that snapped with a wrench that was incorrect, not checked. It was an expensive one (not in use and therefore not calibrated for a while) from my jobs lab, not cheap junk.

I bought new from eBay. Hazet
I torqued the head, from center out to the ends in increments of 5 ft lbs to appr 15 ft lbs, then increments of 2 to 20,65 ftLbs (28Nm) Same torque I applied on my Honda OEM studs back in the days several times without snapping them.

Kibblewhite HD studs, max 22.5ft lbs according to the instruction. (with an exact wrench. +5% is + 1ft lbs)
The small 6mm bolts followed each time, 10-12Nm.

Next day 24 hours later I torqued the head again nut by nut from center to the ends by loosen each nut 1/4 turn, direct followed by torquing same as the day before 20,65 ftLbs (28Nm). I marked most of the nuts with a marker before, stripe nut-head. This showed that each nut was tightened appr. 2mm more in the outer radius.

Cam / tower bolts also re-torqued just for sure one day after. Not by loosen them. Just to be sure that the towers were bottomed due to the new rubber pucks with extra sealer under plus the thicker 4-orings under the cam towers.

Do not use too much sealer under the pucks. It will creep out from the towers and must be removed. Theoretically possible that a flood of sealer can clog the oil channels into the cam towers that the 4 small o-rings are there to seal.

Clogged cam towers oil channels will ruin cam tower + cam + rocker arms/shafts plus maybe more when metal particles enter the engine everywhere.....

- Taking the crank cases apart to?

[Blackhole]

Thanks guys...here we go.