Topic: 1975 CB550 K Rebuild & Small Mods from AUS

[MickB]

Bootsey, I've just read your build and subscribed, it's great and very well documented. The engine build is very detailed, excellent.
I'll be be referring to your build as I get more into my build, now that I've got my gearbox sorted.
Hit me up for parts if I can help.
Mick

[Bootsey]

This is where I make Dave jealous again.  I have Speedhut electronic guages on my 650, they are probably the best thing I have added to the bike.  They work great and look even better, the only issue is they were a little costly, but not too bad.

Those gauges do look very slick indeed, I just had a read through that thread. Bit rich for my peasants blood though unfortunately

[trueblue]

This is where I make Dave jealous again.  I have Speedhut electronic guages on my 650, they are probably the best thing I have added to the bike.  They work great and look even better, the only issue is they were a little costly, but not too bad.

Those gauges do look very slick indeed, I just had a read through that thread. Bit rich for my peasants blood though unfortunately

Definately well worth it though.  It took me weeks to save up for it when I did it, and I was single at the time .

[dave500]

a lot better than my 10 dollar kmart bicycle speedo I used?

[Bootsey]

So I'm trying to get the valve cover on. I've got the tappet screws backed out, and rubber bands on the arms. But I still get one arm hard up against the valves, and the cover is not down flush.
Is just a matter of rotating the crank until I can get a little bit of slack on all the arms, then wind the cover down?Or should the cover fit easily without any interference?

Really don't want to bend a valve or crack the cover at this point.




Also, the four bolts (not flanged) on the cover, that don't go through the breather cover, there's 3  (6x40mm) and 1 (6x55mm). I'm assuming the longer one goes in next to the tach mount?
I'm waiting on a allen bolt to arrive to replace the screws.

[calj737]

According to this parts fiche, it's #45 and goes between 1/2 on the intake side

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k1-four-1975-usa_model466/partslist/E++01.html#results

[dave500]

youll never have zero clearance on all the rockers at once,just be sure the rocker tip is going on the stem squarely and screw it down evenly,dont put much pressure on those front four little lugs until its almost home,youll snap them off.

[Bootsey]

According to this parts fiche, it's #45 and goes between 1/2 on the intake side

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k1-four-1975-usa_model466/partslist/E++01.html#results

Thanks Cal. I've had a good look at that fiche, there's a bit much going on in it, too get a clear idea. I also thought going by the picture it should go there too, but it's way too long to actually fit there. I'll keep pondering.

[Bootsey]

youll never have zero clearance on all the rockers at once,just be sure the rocker tip is going on the stem squarely and screw it down evenly,dont put much pressure on those front four little lugs until its almost home,youll snap them off.

Alright, great, cheers Dave. You wouldn't happen to have a photo of a assembled valve cover handy would you, so that I could reference the bolts? All good if you don't.

[dave500]

i generally replace all the bolts/screws with allens,I replace those always distorted aluminium washers with new copper ones where ever they are used aswell,youll find out if the bolt is wrong itll bottom out before it pulls down,be sure those blind holes are well blown out first.

[Bootsey]

Cheers Dave, got it all sorted in the end.

I fitted new o-ring gaskets to the valve cover, and the breather cover.
I fitted new o-rings to the dowels on the end caps. I had previously fitted CB500 rocker arms and shafts to the cover, and when I fitted them, I noticed the two 550 ones, were actually a little longer than the single piece 500 shafts, so I put the old dowel o-rings in between the end caps and the shafts.
Also fitted new o-ring to the tappet covers. If anyone else is like me, and was wondering why there was 12 of these in the Vesrah gasket kit, the other 4 fit on the intake runners.

Now I just gotta get out two seized carb sync screws on the intake runners. Tried an impact driver, heating and soaking, but no luck yet. It's a bit hard to get a decent hold on them, and making sure they don't get mangled of out shape in the vise.
Might have to cut the heads off and drill them out.

[dave500]

snick a chisel into them in the undo direction,then replace them,grind off the excess inside then index each ones head with a prick punch, one dot for one,two dots for two etc,that way they will go back and have a flush fit inside without being mixed up.

[MickB]

Bootsey can you take a photo of the last step to show what you mean

[Bootsey]

Bootsey can you take a photo of the last step to show what you mean

Which bit do you mean mate?

[MickB]

Bootsey the quote in inverted commas - see below. Could you show exactly what you mean?

I had previously fitted CB500 rocker arms and shafts to the cover, and when I fitted them, "I noticed the two 550 ones, were actually a little longer than the single piece 500 shafts, so I put the old dowel o-rings in between the end caps and the shafts".

[flatlander]

Going to do a parts order, wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on the following

- Planning to grab a kit with new points and condensers.
-Drive chain - 530 ? Any particular brand?
- Spark plug boots, they are the original, with no markings - Replace them straight up I imagine? 5kΩ or 10kΩ
- I imagine its a good idea to replace all cables? 2 x throttle, clutch and rear brake?
- Haven't found anywhere to buy swingarm brass bushings? There were some on eBay until recently but they've all disappeared...
-The bike was missing the starter solenoid when I got it, any particular suggestions?
-Planning to change the fuses over to ATC/blade style. Any old fuse block do the job?
-Any other suggested upgrades/investigations on the electrical system?

i'll try to answer at least some of your questions:

- Spark plug boots, they are the original, with no markings - Replace them straight up I imagine? 5kΩ or 10kΩ
you can measure them with a multimeter. but they're so cheap, new ones can't hurt.
i think original ones used to be 10k but 5k will be fine. you can read more here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67096.0

- I imagine its a good idea to replace all cables? 2 x throttle, clutch and rear brake?
depends on their state. i'll be doing it for peace of mind, have the new ones already but am in no rush as the old ones are ok.
rear brake: you have a cable for the rear brake?

- Haven't found anywhere to buy swingarm brass bushings? There were some on eBay until recently but they've all disappeared...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/281371815863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4183112fb7&vxp=mtr
roller bearings could also be a good idea.

-Planning to change the fuses over to ATC/blade style. Any old fuse block do the job?
hondaman on here makes one. in his signature there's a link to his shop.

-Any other suggested upgrades/investigations on the electrical system?
go over the wire harness, clean all the connections - that's probably the most important bit.
i added a relay to provide the coils juice straight from the battery, avoiding any loss when it tries to squeeze itself through the start switch etc. in the original setup.
make sure your charging system is good.

[timbo750]

I am not sure if the 500/550 swing arm bushes are the same as the 750. If so then I got some quality ones on ebay from a guy in germany. Let me know and I will find the link. I heard bad things about the roller bearings in the swingarm and of course I found this out after I got a set.

[flatlander]

the ebay link above is a guy in germany. might be the same.
what bad things did you hear about the roller bearings? i use some now, with a bit under 10k km on them and they seem fine, so far.

[timbo750]

I heard they can flat spot because the shaft does not fully roate. But I think its the needle rollers that have the issue not the shaft. I will try and find the reference to what I was told.

[flatlander]

great, thanks!

[Bootsey]

Cheers for the replies. I ended up ordering a few bits and pieces last week, and found that German ebay seller for the swing arm bushes on another thread, and a set is on the way.

I've read a couple of gripes about the needle bearings too, seems like it doesn't get simpler than the brass ones.

Mick, these are the pieces I was referring to.
The earlier 550 had 8 short rocker shafts, the later 550 models and all the 500's I think, had 4 long shafts.
I replaced the o-rings you can see on the dowel pins. Then I poked the old ones in the hole, so they sit in between the end of the shaft and pin, just to keep pressure on the shaft, and maybe keep it from spinning. The earlier 550 models apparently sometimes ended up wearing the shaft holes. There's a bit of info here.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20408.0

[MickB]

Aaah, now I see!

[Bootsey]

Well the stainless bolts arrived, so they're installed with some antisieze. Gotta adjust the valve clearances next. Man, it's a pain that you can't get the front tappet covers off with the allen heads. Might have to find some replacements there, also need to get some replacements for the intake runners, now that I've got them out.

I've been doing some work on the carbs too, they're pretty filthy.



I ordered some stuff off Amazon a while back, they sent me two lots, and due to the cost of return postage, let me keep it. So if any one wants any or all of it, its free to a good home, if you pay postage. Probably more suited to guys in Oz due to postages costs.

The circlip pliers already have a home, but there's some 3/8 ratchet extensions, impact driver, and valve lapping stick& compound.
First in wins.

[dave500]

did someone run that bike on vegemite mate?try and rescue the factory brass jets,the aftermarket ones you get just aint quite precise as the kiehin ones,for example I had a brand new quality 1mm drill bit,it wouldn't go through a keyster "#100" main jet,but through a genuine jet was like a precision bushing,the non genuines can go either way,youll be rich or lean with the correct jet number,or spot on,who knows?

[Bootsey]

Haha, #$%*ing wish it was vegemite, it'd be a hell of a lot easier to clean. I've got them stripped apart and cleaned fairly well now. Fixing a broken float post at the moment.
Alright, cool. I've got rebuild kits. I double check them with the old ones, and see how they compare.