Topic: CB550 - Issues for beginning rider - Help please!

[TwoTired]

Hey TT, is there a another photo of your Float Level Tool that I can see in its entirety?

It's called a "Machinist pocket scale".  If you Google, you can find one for $1.75 online, or about $4 at sears.

Also, the Parts number you gave me for the gasket set...is that from Partzilla? Cause someone else gave me a link to get a gasket set but the part numbers are slightly different from the numbers you posted in the thread earlier.

16010-323-305 - This is the Gasket Set part number from Partzilla

16010-323-315 - This is the parts number you posted...Different site?

The number I gave is off the package.  I bought mine from Honda parts distribution.  If you search www.cmsnl.com using your 305 number it supercedes your number with the 315.

As far as I know the 315 suffix indicates a more recent number.  I would assume the 305 number is older stock.  I don't know what the package content difference is.   Possibly just a vendor change, or a materials composition change.

[Koonendez]

Awesome! Thanks for clarifying


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[Deltarider]

If you buy the gasket set, make sure you get the 16010-323-315 set and not the 16010-323-305. Honda made an error with the latter.

[Koonendez]

Question...when re-assembling carbs do I need to add any lubrication or grease on new gaskets and rubber bits? If so, what are you using?


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[seanbarney41]

Question...when re-assembling carbs do I need to add any lubrication or grease on new gaskets and rubber bits? If so, what are you using?


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a squirt of wd40 or silicon spray on o-rings is all that should be useful

[TwoTired]

Silicone for orings if needed to get them to slide into proper position.

The bowl gasket/oring is "glued" in with Gascacinch on the bowl side only.  Dry contact with flat on the carb body.

The top punched gasket I install dry.  It's mostly a dust block.

[Koonendez]

Thanks guys. Sorry but just want to clarify the bowl gasket/oring I should glue down but only glue one side?


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[Maurice]

You may glue the bowl gasket, that's only for ease of putting on IMO, so one side only. If you're careful you shouldn't need it which is preferable. Again IMO. Less risk of more gunk going through the carbs... Just carefully put the bowl back on, checking the o-ring is in place all around. When it's new it can be harder as they tend to make the o-ring a bit longer, once used it usually stays in place on its own.

I never use anything and they never leak. 3 bikes and countless removals of bowls for tuning...

[TwoTired]

Thanks guys. Sorry but just want to clarify the bowl gasket/oring I should glue down but only glue one side?

Yes.  That is the way they came from the factory.  But, I wouldn't call Gascacinch sealer a glue, even though it shares some of glue's properties as far as positioning.  It is primarily a sealing aid, and won't be effected by gasoline.

I apply it to the bowl's "trough" with a flat or broken tip round toothpick.  While the sealer is still wet, place in the big oring to give it a coat then remove it (Or, just give it a thin coat on one side) and let it get tacky.  Then install into the groove.  It does behave similar to contact cement, so you can place paper over it and work the oring starting at the corner and slip the paper out as you insert more oring.

[dave500]

if its the non shaped circular o ring just use a dab of super/instant glue in each corner only as you work it around,wait a couple of seconds before you move on to the next corner,works a treat.

[Koonendez]

Ok so finally my package arrived today with 4 sets of spark plugs, 4 sets of gaskets for carbs, and 4 carb insulators.

Here's the problem I noticed right away. The Insulator boots I ordered are shorter than the boots that I currently have on the bike. Maybe by a 1/4".

Remembering that I have 76 carbs, with an intake manifold off a 75, but my engine is a 78 model. Will it work with the shorter boots?

The part number I ordered off Partzilla was 16211-404-000. I am going back to stock airbox if that makes any difference as far as clearance needed for airbox between the frame and the carbs. Please help.

[iron_worker]

If the new insulators are shorter and you're trying to use the stock air box then you may have issues with trying to line up the air box with it's mounting point on the frame.

IW

[Bankerdanny]

The engine year doesn't matter. The manifold year is what's important.

That insulator is for a 77-78 PD type carb setup, and like IW said, they might not work properly with your earlier style carbs if you are using a stock airbox.

[Koonendez]

Got it. Setting up to return and exchange for correct boots.

Did the unthinkable today and started taking apart my carbs for cleaning. They don't look as cruddy as I thought or hoped they would be here are some pictures. Having trouble getting the emulsion tube out of the top but I'm wondering when I should check the setting that they're on before pulling them out. Here's some pictures. TT need your help here!



















The slide is not moving back down and I'm trying to remove the two small screws outside the sleeve assuming I need to remove it all to pull out emulsion tube. Should I be checking for setting here?


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[Koonendez]

#$%*! Pretty much stripped the screw head trying to remove it! Any suggestions??




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[goldarrow]

That arm on the top can come off, move it sideway, then you can pull the slide off the carbs

[Maurice]

Worst case it can be drilled out. There's still enough "meat" on the head, get a good JIS screwdriver.

But, why do you want to remove the needles? To check the height? You could leave them on until you are tuning. With a bit of luck they're at the right height. There's nothing you're going to clean there.

[strynboen]

can you not make threds in the emu tube..m 4 or m 5...and schrev a schrev in it,,and pull it aut..no need to take the kaburettors total apart...waste of time...

[Maurice]

can you not make threds in the emu tube..m 4 or m 5...and schrev a schrev in it,,and pull it aut..no need to take the kaburettors total apart...waste of time...

Man, don't take this the wrong way, I am a big fan of your spelling

It's a great idea, but is the emulsion tube still usable after this, or is it more like a last resort kind of thing?

[Koonendez]

Ok...I've got the slide out in its entirety. Wondering if I even need to remove the slide needle off?

Should I even need to mess with the slide needle at all at this point? Am I just checking for setting here? The needle itself and everything on the slide is very clean

[goldarrow]

Check and compare needle heights across all 4, PO could do funny things.  Emul tubes push from top, will drop down to bottom, use chopstick

[strynboen]

can you not make threds in the emu tube..m 4 or m 5...and schrev a schrev in it,,and pull it aut..no need to take the kaburettors total apart...waste of time...

Man, don't take this the wrong way, I am a big fan of your spelling

i think it still vill work..even you cut threds in the end...the small holes and calebereting are in opsite end..so it vill not thange any adjustings..but vill somone konfirm it..or kill the idea..


It's a great idea, but is the emulsion tube still usable after this, or is it more like a last resort kind of thing?

[Koonendez]

Here's everything I sprayed down



I've got clear passageways through all of these


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[Koonendez]

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[Koonendez]

Thanks Maurice for clarifying.

I've now got all the bits and pieces out of the carb and have sprayed through all the passageways in the needles and I think the first one is ready to put back together now. On next post I will shoot pictures of all the bits I sprayed down with carb cleaner.

Where can I see the size of these jets before I put them back in?