Author Topic: CB550 - Issues for beginning rider - Help please! (Read 23803 times)

TwoTired · « **Reply #175 on:** June 05, 2014, 03:03:35 PM »

Quote from: Koonendez on June 05, 2014, 01:07:06 PM

The main jet I don't believe is stock. It has an imprint that says K 1.8 on them.

Probably the float valve seat. Main jet sit in the body to support the emulsion tubes.

Cross head screws are pretty intolerant of the wrong cross head driver size. I believe that is why many curse the screw as they have failed to provide the correct driver, or use a driver that has long since worn out. Allens forces the use of the correct driver. So, for many, this becomes a cure-all for their own lack of discipline, imo.

Anyway cross head rivers must fit in a way that they completely engage, the screw head features and with enough pressure to never let them "cam-out". Philips was originally introduced in production to prevent unskilled workers from stripping threads, as it was easier and cheaper to extract a buggared screw head than repair stripped threads in the parent body.

SohRon · « **Reply #176 on:** June 05, 2014, 09:15:02 PM »

Just logged in to this thread for the first time and it sounds like you're getting some good info. Sorry to hear about your tank, especially since it appears you may have decided upon an acid treatment after reading my build thread. The Prep & Etch worked well for me, but I only left it in for two hours, not two days... If I had seen this in time I certainly would have cautioned you against leaving it in your tank for that long. I'm not surprised that you developed problems, although the pinhole was probably already there and the tank treatment just uncovered it...

In this, as in everything, be sure to follow procedures as they're presented for the best results!

Good luck with your project.

Koonendez · « **Reply #177 on:** June 05, 2014, 09:34:17 PM »

Thanks for joining in SohRon. The tank was corroding there anyhow and if anything the process showed me damage I wasn't aware of. Tank is welded back up and going through a Metal Rescue treatment while I continue battling the carbs.

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SohRon · « **Reply #178 on:** June 05, 2014, 09:57:57 PM »

Good to hear it!

Koonendez · « **Reply #179 on:** June 06, 2014, 07:10:41 AM »

Victory! The stripped head FINALLY came out this morning!

So TT...here's the info on the slide needle.
#272304
Clip is on 5th notch from the top
1.25" from tip to fattest diameter

Considering I am running a 4-to-1 exhaust with very, very little back pressure and reverting back to stock air box (or closest I can get to it), what clip setting should I set this needle to? Until I hear otherwise, I am going to move the needle position up to the 4th groove from the current 5th setting and give it a try.

Jet Sizes:
Main Jet: 120
Slow Jet: 40
Valve Seat: 1.8
Throttle Valve: 2.5 / 103

TwoTired · « **Reply #180 on:** June 06, 2014, 09:55:29 AM »

If you can use a stock air box, even with a UNI foam filter, the 4th groove should be ok. I expect the main should be 105 or maybe 110 at the largest. To restore proper throttle response, you will have to fine tune the max # of turns out from seated that will still net you reliable power with up to 1/2 remaining throttle twist.
These recommendations are just a prognostication. The only real way to zero in on proper set up parameters is with either a dyno, or test track runs with plug reads to indicate combustion parameters consistent with present changes. The bike ain't gonna adjust itself. And, that is simply the price you pay for running non-stock.

FYI: The needle is a standard K needle.
For the record, my measurements for this needle are:

Jet Needle and taper (Throttle valve)   #2.5 - 4th groove
Jet needle number   272304
Jet needle OAL     5.57cm
Jet needle diameter at tip     1.25mm
Jet needle diameter at 1mm   1.63mm
Jet needle diameter at 2mm   2.06mm
Jet needle diameter at 3mm   2.49mm
Jet needle diameter at 4mm   2.52mm
Jet needle diameter at 5mm   2.55mm
Needle jet orifice     2.60mm

Koonendez · « **Reply #181 on:** June 06, 2014, 10:57:13 AM »

Awesome. Going to finish the rest of the carbs and set clip on 4th groove. In the meantime I'll look around the boards to see how I can retrofit a stock airbox with a uni filter. Thanks for the help TT and everyone else that chimed in.

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Koonendez · « **Reply #182 on:** June 06, 2014, 11:00:12 AM »

Is there a diagram somewhere that can show me where all these orings belong? Does the gasket set come with extra o rings in each set? There are much more orings in the set than I see in my carbs

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Deltarider · « **Reply #183 on:** June 06, 2014, 12:19:10 PM »

There are two (at least) ment for the T-joint between the carbs (where the fuel tube is connected)

TwoTired · « **Reply #184 on:** June 06, 2014, 12:37:20 PM »

Quote from: Deltarider on June 06, 2014, 12:19:10 PM

There are two (at least) ment for the T-joint between the carbs (where the fuel tube is connected)

Each fuel inlet tee gets 4, two on each side of the Tee. And of course, there are two tees. If you don't separate the carbs and they aren't leaking, probably just leave them alone.
There will be extra of these, because if you separate just one carb from the bank you need 4 orings for both sides of the fuel tee connection. If you have four carb gasket sets, there will be two extra of these in each set.

The smaller fat one goes on the drain screw. That should leave one for the main jet and one for the float valve seat. I recall the smallest one goes on the main jet. It's been a while, though.

Koonendez · « **Reply #185 on:** June 16, 2014, 07:15:47 PM »

Alright guys, carbs have been cleaned and reassembled with clip position moved up to 4th position.

These are the only components I've gathered together from eBay along with my own stock parts. I don't have any of the hardware or foam element pieces. Can I get this airbox to work with what I've got?? Thanks in advance.

Koon

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TwoTired · « **Reply #186 on:** June 16, 2014, 07:50:17 PM »

Pretty close.
Do you have the other L bracket for the filter box top mount?
Any hoses?
Foam for the oil separator?

Did you get the collars that keep the plastic from compressing between bolt connections?

Is that plenum for an F bike or a 77-78K model. The rubber couplers are different. Same goes for that air horn. The screen plate at the entrance is slight different size.

I'd get a new filter element. From economy use the UNI NU-4055. But, the stock ones work great.

Koonendez · « **Reply #187 on:** June 16, 2014, 08:59:49 PM »

Seems like there's a lot I need to scrap together. I think I'll just put pods back on for now until I can manage to get these specific bits. I've searched eBay and can never find the parts I'm missing like the brackets and hardware along with foam element pieces. Frustrated.

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Koonendez · « **Reply #188 on:** June 16, 2014, 09:02:10 PM »

Don't have the L bracket. I have a breather hose. No foam. No collars. The plenum is from a 77-78 K model.

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Koonendez · « **Reply #189 on:** June 16, 2014, 09:24:06 PM »

Hey TT any suggestions on bench syncing these carbs before I set them back on the bike? I assume the light method is the best option but if I'm putting pods back on for now, what should they be set at?

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TwoTired · « **Reply #190 on:** June 16, 2014, 11:19:28 PM »

Filtration has no effect on carb vacuum balance.

Koonendez · « **Reply #191 on:** June 17, 2014, 08:09:32 AM »

Plugs I am replacing. 1-4 left to right.

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Koonendez · « **Reply #192 on:** June 17, 2014, 09:44:56 AM »

Does anyone have a picture for correct throttle cable routing? I have done a search and can't seem to find one. Thanks

Koonendez · « **Reply #193 on:** June 17, 2014, 11:23:28 AM »

Ok I've got cables installed but I'm certain something is wrong as it is very difficult to get WOT and the pulley is barely moving.

This is also embarrassing but I can't figure out where my fuel lines should be entering the carbs. Of course I didn't take a picture and the clymer is pissing me off. Please help this hopeless guy. Thanks

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Koonendez · « **Reply #194 on:** June 17, 2014, 11:27:39 AM »

Found fuel line ports. Ughhh.

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Koonendez · « **Reply #195 on:** June 17, 2014, 11:38:48 AM »

Routing poorly? Installed incorrectly? Can't get more than maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn on throttle

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steakCB550K · « **Reply #196 on:** June 17, 2014, 12:02:36 PM »

@koonendez

See page 146-147 of the manual for cable routing.

Koonendez · « **Reply #197 on:** June 17, 2014, 12:09:46 PM »

Figured out I installed the cables incorrectly on the grip. So I'm getting full wot on turn now. Looking at page 146-147 and I'm seeing. Tire replacement

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TwoTired · « **Reply #198 on:** June 17, 2014, 12:40:05 PM »

Look at end of chapter 14 in the Honda shop manual. However, if you have stock length cables and non stock bar positions. You may have to get creative with routing.
Keep in mind that a cable will have the least resistance when straight, or with the largest bend radius you can wrangle.

Maurice · « **Reply #199 on:** June 17, 2014, 12:57:00 PM »

Looks ok. Just make sure bars can go lock to lock without throttle cable binding, keep testing throttle operates properly as you go lock to lock. Nothing like maneuvering the bike into a parking spot in a crowded place and going WOT...

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Author Topic: CB550 - Issues for beginning rider - Help please! (Read 23803 times)