The stock battery is rated for 12AH. It's no coincidence the the charging system is rated for about 12.5 Amps.
@ 3000 RPM and above, the bike should run indefinitely, keeping the battery at full charge (assuming it started off nearly so).
The stock bike normally draws about 10 amps with everything turned on. At idle speed, the charging system can only make about 1/3 of full power. which means the bike draws power from the battery during times of deficit production from the alternator.
If the charging system can only make 4 amps and the bike demands 10A, the voltage falls, and the spark stops. This is why the bike dies when disconnect the battery while the bike is idling.
It also matters if your headlight uses the stock 40/50 watt consumption and not some higher watts(brighter) replacement. It matter if you have replace ignition components with low ohm coils that draw more power, and/or a dyna-s that doubles the power draw of any coil installed on the bike.
The numbers show your battery is certainly unknown and began the test in a dodgy condition with no more than 50% charge state. Even a good charging system will take 5-6 Hours to peak that puppy up to full and will depress the charging system readings until, the battery has increased it's voltage.
Garbage in = garbage out.
Take your battery in to be load tested.
But, either your system is drawing more power than stock battery consumption and components, or your alternator isn't making more power than the battery and bike are consuming.