Author Topic: 72 CB350 Build For The Wife (Read 80713 times)

dusterdude · « **Reply #100 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:49:34 PM »

Im glad that pos was of some use to you

Harsh · « **Reply #101 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:53:00 PM »

Me too. My heart sank when the tap broke. All I initially thought was that I now have to hunt for another part.

dusterdude · « **Reply #102 on:** August 16, 2014, 04:39:49 PM »

I understand that

Harsh · « **Reply #103 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:04:07 PM »

Not sure if this will show up well via pics, but in person you can really tell a difference. I decided to try and document my polishing process a bit more. All I did today was wet sand the part. Tomorrow I will hit it with the buffing wheels.

Start:

After 320.

After 600.

After 1200.

After 2000.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #104 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:08:31 PM »

Very nice! Are you going to give it a go on the ribs??

Harsh · « **Reply #105 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:11:19 PM »

Not sure what I am going to do in the middle. Sanding/polishing them would be exceptionally difficult. Cleaning the wheels on the 750 is a pain in the arse so I can't imagine trying to get in there occasionally with some metal polish. I am thinking about hitting the middle with a brass wire wheel to clean them up and powder coating the middle whatever color I do the frame in. That way a simple spray and wipe would suffice.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #106 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:47:18 PM »

The PC will definitely be easier to clean than porous oxidized metal. +++1

Stev-o · « **Reply #107 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:48:06 PM »

Looks real good, Harsh.

Harsh · « **Reply #108 on:** August 18, 2014, 09:33:31 AM »

Wire wheeled the center part then moved onto the polishing. Again, not sure if the differences will show up via the pics, but when looking at it in person you can see a change.

After black compound

After rouge compound

After green compound

Harsh · « **Reply #109 on:** August 18, 2014, 04:13:02 PM »

Yah she is pretty awesome. Especially for putting up with my antics for the past 24 years. WOOT WOOT

And the polishing continues. Moving to the front hub and wheels.

Before

After. Now that I have seen the pic it looks like I still have a little bit of work to do. It doesn't look nearly as bad when looking at it though, but I guess the camera pics up on things.

Wheels. They were spotted with rust and the insides had a fair amount of it. I used a brush dipped in Prep-N-Etch and coated them. I let it sit for a little bit then hit them with some 0000 steel wool which polished them up nicely.

I had to give the frame a good coating of Prep-N-Etch today as well. When I went in the garage this morning there was some flash rust on it. I guess the extra moisture in the air last night took its toll. The frame is no longer nice and shiny, but it is now sealed from the elements enough until I can get it powder coated.

Harsh · « **Reply #110 on:** August 19, 2014, 03:09:53 PM »

Here is the daily update.

Sanded and polished the brake side of the front hub. What a pain this was. All of the nooks and crannies wore my fingers out.

Took the forks apart. The insides were nasty nasty nasty. Getting the locknut at the top loose proved to be a bear because the rod kept spinning. I wound up having to slide in a pair of needle nose vice grips to hold the rods while I unscrewed the nut. The nut only has two flat side to it and is fairly thin. I didn't have anything to slide in so I had to go to the store and buy a cheap 19mm wrench and grind it down to the point where it would slip in between the spring and the top nut.

In order to get the snap ring out I had to slide off the fork cover. Great googly moogly that was tough. I just kept working my screwdriver around and slowly worked it off. Both the fork cover and the top nuts had a lot of rust. A soaking in Prep-N-Etch and some lights scrubbing with some steel wool and they cleaned up nicely. They are a bit pitted, but should work.

Tomorrow I will move onto getting the fork lowers polished up.

Stev-o · « **Reply #111 on:** August 19, 2014, 08:58:15 PM »

Polishing looks fantastic.

Harsh · « **Reply #112 on:** August 20, 2014, 02:46:21 PM »

Thanks Stev-o.

I am almost done with polishing stuff.

Completed the lower fork tubes today. Removing the casting marks around the screw bosses was a nightmare.

Also shined up the front fender. It was in pretty good shape so just some light polishing was needed. The inside however was nasty. Filled with dirt, grease, and rust. I forgot to take a picture of it before I started, but oh well. After I scrubbed the dirt and grease off it it there was a lot of rust so I treated it with...you guessed it Prep-N-Etch. All clean and ready to rock.

I met up with my buddy Cal and picked up all of the stuff he media blasted for me. He also had my new (to me) head that his machinist did a proper job on clearing out the cam chain tunnel for the KA cam chain slipper.

dusterdude · « **Reply #113 on:** August 20, 2014, 03:42:39 PM »

Cool stuff

MoMo · « **Reply #114 on:** August 20, 2014, 03:51:06 PM »

Head looks good!

The Mrs. should be quite happy with your work

....Larry

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #115 on:** August 20, 2014, 06:53:30 PM »

Calvary Cal comes through!! That is some solid work!

Harsh · « **Reply #116 on:** August 25, 2014, 03:14:36 PM »

Placed a number of orders for parts so I am mainly waiting on them to arrive to move forward. I was going to replace all of the cables, but none of the aftermarket stuff matches up to the dimensions of my cables and the OEM stuff is stupid expensive. The inners of the cables work just fine it is just the sheathing that is ugly and sun faded. I lubed of and cleaned the cables then decided to hit them with a coat of PlastiDip. That stuff worked like a charm.

Worked on the new head today. Doing it once was a pain, but having to re-do all of the the fin sanding & polishing proved to be a frustrating all day endeavor. Regardless I got it done. I forgot to lap the valves to the new head before I cleaned up for the evening so I guess I will do that tomorrow before I do the final cleaning and paint.

Got the head cleaned and painted today. I am glad that is done with cleaning the fins is a royal pain.

Also took apart the gauges to prep them for some overlays I purchased. Just as I was about done cleaning them when the overlays arrived in the mail so on they went.

Before

After

I also cleaned and painted the needles. They were very faded.

This is what I used on the tips.

Stev-o · « **Reply #117 on:** August 25, 2014, 06:55:09 PM »

Nice work, Harsh. Work n the head but be a pain but sure looks great. Do you just sand the edges?
Would like to do this on my RD.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #118 on:** August 26, 2014, 10:40:54 AM »

Stev-o, you're RD came stock w/ that exact color scheme as Harsh made his into; how can you improve on that ?

Harsh · « **Reply #119 on:** August 26, 2014, 01:01:38 PM »

I start off by filing the edges to get the bulk of material removed and the edges flat. I then move onto sanding using as small block of oak to keep everything flat. I start out at 320 then 600 then 1200 then 2000. Then I polish, black then rouge.

Well I tried to assemble the engine today, but failed. Everything seemed to be going smoothly until I tried to get the rocker boxes on. I could get one side on with some gentle caressing from the palm of my hand, but the other side absolutely would not go on. I tried putting the opposite side that I was working on first to see if that did anything. Nope. I tried to get them both on at the same time. Big helping of nope. I tried to adjust the rockers to their loosest state. Nope. I noticed that there was no slack in the cam chain at all. I pressed on the slipper as hard as I could and no matter what position I had the crank in the chain didn't move. So I decided to take everything apart and see what the deal was. I didn't see anything out of order.

Unfortunately, when I took the head off the corner of the gasket tore off so now I need to source a new head gasket. I looked on Bore-Tech's site, but they don't sell a stock head gasket and they are out of stock on the top end gasket kit. Other than going to the dealership I really have no idea where to look for one and they probably want as much for the one gasket as a whole top end kit costs.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #120 on:** August 26, 2014, 02:12:27 PM »

Harsh, I never installed a KA slipper cam chain tensioner but I imagine it'll be on the 'to do list' sometime in the future once I wear out my Polish made PA6 rollers.
I have a Vesrah(OEM quality) top end gasket set w/ all top end gaskets including the stock size head gasket made in Japan for my CB350K4 twin(my spare) that I'll sell to you for 25 shipped if interested. I can send it out 1st thing tomorrow morning USPS Priority Flat Rate envelope
Bill

Harsh · « **Reply #121 on:** August 27, 2014, 06:41:49 AM »

Holy crap...the dealership wants $53 for the head gasket. I didn't pay that much for the entire kit from Bore-Tech.

Bill you have a PM.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #122 on:** August 27, 2014, 11:31:51 AM »

She's on the way to you Harsh,should be there this Fri. at the latest.

Harsh · « **Reply #123 on:** August 27, 2014, 02:19:03 PM »

Thanks Bill.

I sanded and painted the outer covers for the gauges and polished up the back covers a little bit. Once done I assembled them. This took a little bit of ingenuity. In order to get the ring back on you have to have something solid to tap against. So off to Lowes I went. I finally found something that would work...a 4"atrium grate. The inside ribs have to be ground down a little bit in order for the bottom of the case to rest on the lip of the atrium. I wrap some painters tape around the case just to protect it a little bit. Once that is complete is a simple task of tapping over the ring. if you just start in one spot and start working around you will have very little ring available to tap down when you get about 2/3 of the way around. To help combat this I tap over the ring at the 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, then 3 o'clock. After that I move around the ring sort of like you install a tire until everything is as flat as can be. My wife has a little hammer that work great for the initial tapping, but once I get the four corners down I use a brass drift to aid in tapping down the ring.

Ribs ground down a little bit

Finished

Now the speedo side requires you to cut out a notch so that the trip reset can poke through. A few seconds with my hand saw and it was done. If you have removed the rubber gasket on the speedo make sure you orientate it correctly since it has a notch. After that it is the same process.

My fork seals came in today so I put the forks together as well. I may end up taking them apart again to swap out the springs, but I will see how they feel once everything is back together.

MoMo · « **Reply #124 on:** August 27, 2014, 04:22:48 PM »

Did you have the cam chain tensioner in when you were trying to install the cam ends?...Larry

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Author Topic: 72 CB350 Build For The Wife (Read 80713 times)