Topic: 6'6" and I bought a 1978 CB750...

[Prez1967]

Hey everyone!!

Years ago I sold my last bike, a 2007 Harley Night Rod Special, and I recently got the itch to get back on two wheels and was lucky to find this gem down the street from my home.



I picked it up yesterday and rode it about 40min home. Bike ran great!

Theres a rust hole in the right side lower exhaust and the horn doesnt work but other than that, its great!

Initially I'd like to make it a bit more comfortable for a guy my size. Some lower bars would help my arms stretch out. Bar end mirrors would be more functional as well. The seat is comfortable, id like to get a cafe style perch but Im not sure a lower seat would fit me to the bike any better. Ive been eyeballing Carpy's 4-1 exhaust but Im not a fan of losing the center stand.

Would rear sets make more room for my 35" inseam? Who makes them for the '78 CB750s?

Is there a. Exhaust that drops weight, adds power but retains the center stand?

Can I add pods to the factory carbs and tune them to run with the new exhaust?

Which bars (clubmans or clipons) will clear the '78 tank and let me stretch my arms out a bit?

Looking forward to restoring this excellent machine over time!!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Lower drag-style bars would give you more stretch.  Clipons would give you more room, but you'll sacrifice comfort.

Any Yoshimura 4-1 replica (MotoGP Werks, Carpy, Lossa) will entail losing the center stand.  You may be able to use the centerstand with Cycle Exchange's various pipes or a Kerker.

77-78K models do not have turn-key bolt on rearset options.  You will need someone to fabricate custom brackets for them.  Cognito Moto makes a rearset bracket (you can select 77-78K) with which you can use universal Tarozzi rearsets.  http://cognitomoto.com/collections/rearsets/products/cb550k-cb750k-rearset-brackets-keep-linkage

Before you swap seats, ask yourself if you are committed to the stock tank.  The stock seat with the hinge is pretty comfy.  You can keep it while losing the luggage rack and huge, bug-eye turn signals.  You can also use the stock seat with a 69-76K tank.  I have a 77K and I can tell you that the stock tank is not a natural beauty.  There are a gazzilion options out there if you use a fiberglass, steel or aluminum custom seat, but you will lose use of the hinged seat.  There are a few options out there that offer used of the hinges (for example, Airtech-Streamlining makes a fiberglass speed-hump seat with mounting points for the stock hinges).

For now, I would suggest taking some of the ugly bits off, while leaving the bike rideable, and then make any significant changes after the summer.

[Prez1967]

Solid advice sir!

My first intent is to remove that luggage rack, lower the bars and get an exhaust/pods/rejet. I think some fresh rubber may be in order as well.

I like the stock seat and dont mind the stock tank for now. Keeping the hinged seat with storage and lock would be a plus... I'll look into an earlier tank if its a simple bolt on. Some lower profile gauges would be nice unless the factory gauges can be pivoted flatter?

Less is more with this project... For now. Eventually a full frame off is in order.

[flybox1]

Hey prez.
I've got the same bike, and am 6'5"
I kept the stock seatpan, and had an upholsterer shape and cover a seat to my design, and went with Norman Hyde M bars for that forward lean(but not so far that I can't stand to ride all.day.
I bought this bike with drag bars, and they were pretty uncomfortable.
Rear sets are a challenge for this model.  There are no direct bolt-ons available.
I'd check out Euro, or superbike bars.  And have a look at the bars forum member tweakin uses on his bikes.  They look comfortable....

Good luck with it...

[Prez1967]

Hey flybox1,

Those Norman Hyde M bars look plenty comfortable while lowering the profile of the bike.  I almost ordered a set of Carpy's clubman bars today but figured I'd do more research first.   I like that for the time being, i wouldnt have to shorten the control wires with the Clubmans.

Found a post today about chopping 6" of the rear fender and remounting it.  Really cleans up the rear of the bike and that would save some $$$ for the time being.

Can a 4-2 or 4-1 pipe be fitted without rejetting? I'm new to these engines...

[dhall57]

Nice K8 prez. Im 5'9 and my 70KO and 76K6 fit me just about right. I can see where at 6'6 you would be a little cramped

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hey flybox1,

Those Norman Hyde M bars look plenty comfortable while lowering the profile of the bike.  I almost ordered a set of Carpy's clubman bars today but figured I'd do more research first.   I like that for the time being, i wouldnt have to shorten the control wires with the Clubmans.

Found a post today about chopping 6" of the rear fender and remounting it.  Really cleans up the rear of the bike and that would save some $$$ for the time being.

Can a 4-2 or 4-1 pipe be fitted without rejetting? I'm new to these engines...

Carpy's clubman bars are nothing special. You can find them all over for $25. Pretty severe angle - hard on the wrists and harder to steer.

[Prez1967]

Hey flybox1,

Those Norman Hyde M bars look plenty comfortable while lowering the profile of the bike.  I almost ordered a set of Carpy's clubman bars today but figured I'd do more research first.   I like that for the time being, i wouldnt have to shorten the control wires with the Clubmans.

Found a post today about chopping 6" of the rear fender and remounting it.  Really cleans up the rear of the bike and that would save some $$$ for the time being.

Can a 4-2 or 4-1 pipe be fitted without rejetting? I'm new to these engines...

Carpy's clubman bars are nothing special. You can find them all over for $25. Pretty severe angle - hard on the wrists and harder to steer.

A friend suggested a company called "Woodcraft" for their clip ons but I think that may drop me too low as well, even though their design looks neat.  I'll check out a set of superbike bars first and go from there.

I removed the luggage rack from the rear of the bike yesterday... every project has a beginning I suppose haha.  The rear fender shouldnt be too difficult to remove and see how I'm going to go about chopping it down a bit.

Looks like my fuel tank is going to need a good cleaning out... all kinds of debris floating around in there.  Any tips on how to remove the fuel tank?

[calj737]

If you  I want a high quality, comfortable seat that fits the stock mounting, here you go: http://www.corbin.com/honda/h7507578f.shtml

You can devise any color or material scheme and have the best of all worlds.

+1 on Norman Hyde bars. Clip-ons and clubmans will have you screaming in pain. For a taller person (6'3" I am) I find a slightly more upright torso, and pegs moved rearward, not up and rearward, just rear, improve my comfort greatly. It also aides substantially in your ability maneuver a bike with better steering posture, CG, and then feet back for weight transfer.

If you do opt for clip-ons, you'll be happier to choose a set that have upswept risers, and are adjustable in their pull back. If you need new cables, get them. Those on your bike may be in disrepair anyway after 20+ years. At least probably need a good lubrication.

[Prez1967]

Norman Hyde "M" bars have been ordered! Along with two different service manuals. 

I'm going to change the oil and clean out the gas tank first chance I get so I can check the overall condition of the reservoirs before I start digging deeper into other sections of the bike. 

Setting the foot controls rearward would certainly create a more natural bend at my knees.  Right now I'm sitting pretty upright... I think if I could move a bit rearward on the seat, that would help as well.

Calj737:  I believe the seat you linked me to is for the F models... Im afraid I dont have that seat pan. I'm thinking of having a local upholstery shop create something on the stock seat pan... we'll see when we get to that point. 

[flybox1]

One item to be aware of with the M bars and the wider K7/8 tank.
If you mount these bars with the ends low, they could contact the sides of the tank.
Either keep the tips up so there is no contact, or add some meat to your steering stops to prevent tank dings.
My welder did this for me, but there are other ways.

[Prez1967]

The Norman Hyde bars came in today and went right on the bike. It seems I have some fine tuning to do as the way I initially set them up have them pinching my thumbs on the tank at full lock and I need to re-route my brake line. Excellent time to flush some fresh fluid into the front brake system.

The seating position is vastly improved (from sitting on it at least) and the factory mirrors seem to be more useful now. Couldnt take it for a spin as it seems I my have let some air into the front brake line when I loosened the banjo bolt to rotate it for clearance.

I also removed the passenger grab handle as the right side was bent and sitting cock-eyed. I need to source some shorter bolts for the rear turn signals now. The seat is also a little lopsided in the rear... That will be taken care of when I have the stock seat pan recovered and hopefully move my seating position to the rear a bit.

Can someone give me a pointer on removing the tank? Id like to empty it and inspect the inside before filling it with some fresh fuel. Would be nice to see how everything looks underneath it also.

[Prez1967]

Because everyone likes pictures...





I'll fish the brake line around a different path later today... how do the other lines look? Should I rotate the bars up? or just work on getting modified stops welded on?

[onetruepunk87]

The tank comes off pretty easily. Open the seat, undo the tank rubber, disconnect the fuel line,  pull the seat back and up to get it off the front rubbers and be mindful there should be a big overflow tube under it that fishes out from between the carbs.

[Prez1967]

Digging more into this bike and reading through my new service manuals is getting me really amped up to work on this bike. 

I'm getting ready to order:

turn signals
side plate and light
headlight visor
gauges (used but in far better condition than mine)

Still debating on whether I should go for a Goldwing front or stick with the CB750 front.  It would be nice to have dual disks but from what I remember, the bike stopped "fine" on the ride home.  I'd be more interested in stiffening the front end and rebuilding suspension to cater to my weight. 

Also looking into relocating my ignition and coming up with some lower profile dummy light setup (i'm really keen to Carpy's setup). 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Digging more into this bike and reading through my new service manuals is getting me really amped up to work on this bike. 

I'm getting ready to order:

turn signals
side plate and light
headlight visor
gauges (used but in far better condition than mine)

Still debating on whether I should go for a Goldwing front or stick with the CB750 front.  It would be nice to have dual disks but from what I remember, the bike stopped "fine" on the ride home.  I'd be more interested in stiffening the front end and rebuilding suspension to cater to my weight. 

Also looking into relocating my ignition and coming up with some lower profile dummy light setup (i'm really keen to Carpy's setup).

The larger diameter fork tubes of the GL and the better brakes will improve both handling and stopping power. It's the best period correct mod you can do to the suspension and brakes. See my build, Tweakin's, Doctor D's and many others. Or don't.

[Prez1967]

Baby steps were made today.

I received my order from Carpy yesterday so I got to work for a little after work today. I wired up the front turn signals. Small snag. When i turned the key to the ON position, the lights came on as normal. I thumbed the (left) turn signal switch, the left turn signal went out and buzzer came on then everything went dead.

I have the tail light off the bike currently and the battery was out before the install. Could either of those be the cause for this issue? My voltage tester is at work so theres no way to test if the battery has power right now. The battery is only a year old... I removed it from the bike and sat it on my work table for the past week.

Rear turn signals will go on when i bring my tap and die set home as the rear fender holes arent big enough for the turn signals to pass through.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Looks sweet, Prez. Really like how these turn signals slim down the front & "hide" up closer around the headlight. Definitely the same feel I'm looking to achieve. To get the old signal ears off, will you have to remove the forks & everything? Will probably be following in your footsteps; especially when putting the rear signals on.

[Prez1967]

Looks sweet, Prez. Really like how these turn signals slim down the front & "hide" up closer around the headlight. Definitely the same feel I'm looking to achieve. To get the old signal ears off, will you have to remove the forks & everything? Will probably be following in your footsteps; especially when putting the rear signals on.

Im not sure whats involved in removing the original turn signal ears... Hoping someone with more experience will chime in before I take unnecessary steps haha

The rear fender holes are elongated from the factory and simply need to be rounded out a bit.  I was distracted yesterday by the power issue and didnt go any further in the rear install.  Already put my voltmeter in the car and should know if its simply a bad battery or if I fried something (not sure how) by tonight. 

I'm currently torn between getting a set of Avons or sticking with the popular Bridgestone Spitfires for this bike.  Anyone have any thoughts on these?

[Prez1967]

So my battery is good. It seems that every time I thumb the turn signal switch left, it blows the bottom fuse in the stack. Thumbing it right functions the right signal just fine. Didnt have time to take it apart to check connections.

I realized that my low beam is out also so I need to place another order with Carpy. May as well throw on his 4-1 while im in there and some other impulsive bits :-)

[AintNoEasyWay]

Haha, you & I are going to very similar roads, Prez. My low beam was out to & I just ordered a new headlight. I do seem to be have charging issues though.

Can't wait to see the new 4 into 1 & other stuff you're grabbing.

[MCRider]

I skimmed your posts so I may have missed this. You've noticed contact between bars and tank. Welded up stops is good.

I drilled the stops, threaded them, and screwed screws into them. Tthe stops on the lower tree that is, not on the frame.  I used 4mm I think, maybe 3mm. Gotta be small. SAE equivalent = ?. 

Head of screw provides the stoppage required. Can be filed down or touched with a dremel, but mine were fine as is.

Whole mod done on bike, very little fuss or muss.

[calj737]

This "screw stop" approach works well, but I'd suggest use socket head Allen bolts in SS, 6mm shank. Red LocTite into lower stem. My opinion a 3 or 4mm screw is too small to withstand any harsh impact from a tank slap or stem slapper.

You could drill thru and nut from underneath, or drill and tap the lower clamp. Either method works.

[Prez1967]

I skimmed your posts so I may have missed this. You've noticed contact between bars and tank. Welded up stops is good.

I drilled the stops, threaded them, and screwed screws into them. Tthe stops on the lower tree that is, not on the frame.  I used 4mm I think, maybe 3mm. Gotta be small. SAE equivalent = ?. 

Head of screw provides the stoppage required. Can be filed down or touched with a dremel, but mine were fine as is.

Whole mod done on bike, very little fuss or muss.

Excellent tip sir!!! I was scratching my head on what to do without resorting to welding.  Thanks!

[Prez1967]

Ordered:

4-1 Exhaust
42mm Pods
Copper exhaust gaskets
Tri-bar headlight with bracket
Headlight Visor
Gas Tank Rubber

Carpy spent some time with me going over my turn signal issue and I think I got an idea of what I did wrong.  What a stand up guy to take time (at 7:30am none-the-less) to talk with a newbie about wiring and answer questions about the products I was about to order.

Exhaust should take about a week or so to ceramic coat and ship out.  He suggested I wait to see what jets are in the carbs currently before I decide which way to go up.  He suggested going up 3 once I determine whats in there now. 

Excellent experience with Carpy and his shop once again!