Topic: 6'6" and I bought a 1978 CB750...

[AintNoEasyWay]

Awesome. Really wanna see how the bike looks with the new headlight/visor/signals. I just ordered a new bulb for my bike because I couldn't decide what I really wanted for a headlight. I started going through Carpy's headlight options & just gave up. So much good stuff on his site.

[Prez1967]

Some notes that may or may not help someone when it comes to wiring two wire turn signals as provided by Carpy

Left side:

Black/White wire to Green wire
Black wire to Solid Orange wire
Remove Orange/White wire

Right Side:

Black/White wire to Ground
Black wire to Light Blue wire
Remove Light Blue/ White wire

It seems that my bike is blowing the third fuse (bottom fuse) in the fuse stack when I flick on the left turn signal.  Clearly I wired something wrong so I'll check it out when I get home later. 

Can anyone tell me what size fuses the three are? Carpy said he believes they are:

5amp
7amp
15amp

Can someone confirm this?

[Prez1967]

Wiring issue resolved with the guide Carpy offered. Turn signals are working A-OK up front now. Still need to drill out frame hole for rear.

Anyone have a write up on front caliper rebuilding and/or any suggestions on a master cylinder replacement? I'll be buying EBC rotor, pads and shoes once they return to stock with Hondaman

[Prez1967]

[AintNoEasyWay]

Nice Prez. Here's what I used to rebuild my front caliper: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=259.msg207521#msg207521

[Prez1967]

I appreciate the link!

I have an email into Slingshot Cycles about EBC brake component availability... also considering this: http://slingshot-cycles.com/products-page/master-cylinders/nissin-matte-black-retro-racer/

[Prez1967]

Im about to pull the plug on a second 1978 CB750K (basket case) for spare parts    The fact that it may eventually find its way into a complete second bike excites me a bit...

I'm also about ready to purchase new tires for mine.  I'm leaning towards Bridgestone Spitfires.  Am I correct in assuming that 110/90 19 (Front) and 130/90 17 (rear) are the sizes I need?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Im about to pull the plug on a second 1978 CB750K (basket case) for spare parts    The fact that it may eventually find its way into a complete second bike excites me a bit...

I'm also about ready to purchase new tires for mine.  I'm leaning towards Bridgestone Spitfires.  Am I correct in assuming that 110/90 19 (Front) and 130/90 17 (rear) are the sizes I need?

I have the Bridgestone Spitfires on my 750 and the Avon Roadriders on my 550.  The Spitfires look more period correct, but the Roadriders seem to have better traction.  So I guess it comes down to your priorities. 

[Prez1967]

I'm down for keeping it more period correct for right now... not planning on dragging a knee anytime soon. 

Do the sizes look ok? will 110 work for the front? or should I stick with 100?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I'm down for keeping it more period correct for right now... not planning on dragging a knee anytime soon. 

Do the sizes look ok? will 110 work for the front? or should I stick with 100?

Sorry, I'm at work so I can't check the tire sizes.

[MCRider]

The front is listed as a 3.25/19 (pre-metric). A 110mm = 4.33 American. Way wider.

Even a 100mm = 3.94 in. Still too wide.

A 3.25in = 82.55mm. Closest thing would be a 90/90-19. Comfortably wider.

[Bankerdanny]

FWIW many people (me included) run 100/90-19's on their bikes. I ran that size on both my 550 and my '77 Goldwing. On my 550 much wider would have rubbed on the front fender.

Per the Avon website, the Roadrunner 3.25-19 is 98mm wide (3.9in), the 90/90-19 is 99mm (3.9in) while the universal 100/90-19 is 109mm (4.3").

[onetruepunk87]

I've got Shinko 712 tires, 110/90-19 in the front and the rear is 130/90-17. They're a cheaper priced tire but I've put 1700+ miles on these and they still have plenty of tread. I can't vouch for how they are in the rain but they have great grip on dry roads.

[Prez1967]

Its been a while since i've studied my motorcycle riding dynamics books... can someone clue me into how a wider front tire will affect handling? 10mm may not be much, but will it be too much?

[70CB750]

Just to confuse you some more, I run BT45s on my bike, great tires.

[Prez1967]

hahahah excellent thanks!

[Prez1967]

Progress has been going slow lately but the parts deliveries have kept coming in.  So far I've received:

Stainless Steel Bolt Kit for Engine
Stainless Steel Bolt Kit for Forks
New Seat Pins
EBC Rotor
EBC Pads
EBC Shoes
All Balls Steering Bearings
All Balls Wheel Bearings (Front and Rear)
Tarozzi Fork Brace
New Hard Line for Front
Nissin 14mm Master Cylinder
Speed Bleeder
110/90 19 Bridgestone Spitfire Front
130/90 17 Bridgestone Spitfire Rear
New Piston and Seal for Front Caliper

I'm waiting for Slingshot Cycles to re-open so I can order a new stainless line for my Norman Hyde M Bars

Waiting for my Order from Carpy to arrive which will include:

4-1 Exhaust
42mm Pod Filters
Tri-Bar Headlight with Trim Ring
Chrome Headlight Visor
New Tank Rubbers

Other parts I'm waiting on are:

Giuliari Style Seat from Motorcycleseatsdirect.com

Assuming I can get the bike back together by August 1st (long work days) I'll only have until the 10th to ride it before I leave for summer vacation.  I'm thinking of just getting the exhaust/pods tuned onto the bike and get the front brake system back together using the factory components that have plenty of meat on them (with new M/C and lines) until this winter when i'll take everything down to the frame. 

Would hate to put on fresh brakes/bearings/tires only to rip the bike apart again in a few months. 

[Prez1967]

More parts keep arriving and its time to start putting some of it together...

I finally got around to mocking up the rear turn signals and plate mount with LED tail light.  Something about the tail light bugs me... it feels a bit to HUGE for the bike... especially for something hanging off the side.  Its already bought so I'll wire it up but I may go to a lower profile, fender mount setup later on. 

I ended up ordering a set of Clubman bars, two piece brake lines and a banjo bolt from Carpy as I got tired of waiting for Slingshot to re-open. 

The Clubmans went on easy enough.  I ended up destroying the left side grip trying to remove it from my Hyde bars so I'll have to order new grips again.  I took this time to install my new Nissin 14mm M/C.  Looks like theres plenty of space for this newer M/C on the bars.  When I tried to install the brake lines and brake light switch is where I hit the snag.  I started a new thread asking for help this morning.  I will wait a few hours and call Carpy to see if he has any pointers for me.  Im sure i'm missing something simple and there'll be egg on my face when he points it out to me.   

Link to brake lines: http://www.cb750cafe.com/products-page/brake-system-parts/braided-hose-brake-kit-2-piece/

Link to Master Cylinder: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-caferacer-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-brake-parts-black-aluminum-nissin-retro-hydraulic-front-brake-master-cylinder-717-654e.html

I cant figure out how to hook up the brake light switch to this M/C.  Again Im sure a call to Dime City will help me out, but it was a head scratcher last night... and I didnt even crack a beer.  I blame the humidity... 

[Tetter]

As answered in your other topic, you have the wrong lines for your bike.

Wiring up the MC should not be so hard though

As you can see on the drawing, your switch has a wire connected to it, while the Nissin, does not. You can see 2 metal pins which is the switch.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k8-four-usa_model14397/partslist/F05-1.html#results

Simply cut the original wire close to the MC, hook up 2 connectors, put these on the pins and presto   it is just 2 wires which make a connection.

[Prez1967]

As answered in your other topic, you have the wrong lines for your bike.

Wiring up the MC should not be so hard though

As you can see on the drawing, your switch has a wire connected to it, while the Nissin, does not. You can see 2 metal pins which is the switch.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k8-four-usa_model14397/partslist/F05-1.html#results

Simply cut the original wire close to the MC, hook up 2 connectors, put these on the pins and presto   it is just 2 wires which make a connection.

Tetter: You da' man! Thank you for your help.  I really like the way Carpy's lines were connecting straight into the master cylinder and brake caliper without the use of a banjo bolt.  I'm thinking of measuring and just ordering one of these: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/goodridge-shadow-stainless-steel-universal-brake-line.html with the appropriate adapters to make a similar setup. 

Any benefit to using a banjo bolt setup?

[Prez1967]

Made some progress in getting the bike back together so I can take it to my local shop and have them make up some lines

Removed center stand, and remounted tank and seat, re-routed condensation collection tube for time being (need to shorten). Really looking forward to seeing how it'll look with the Motorcycleseatsdirect.com seat and a bobbed rear fender.





Just accepted the FedEx delivery with my pods, 4-1 exhaust and headlight from Carpy! Should be fun evening

[Prez1967]

Exhaust and pods are installed... somewhat.

Had an issue fitting the flange on the second cylinder from the left.  Also, it seems the inside pods may be contacting the throttle arm.  Can someone confirm that its the 42mm pods I needed for my '78?

The exhaust will probably come back down today so I can see what I'm gonna do with the problem cylinder.  Also, I left the pinch bolt in place from the center stand that holds a wire bracket and collects some discharge tubes.  When the exhaust rocks, it hits that bolt so it'll have to come off and I'll find a new method for routing those tubes. 

I may get lazy and have the shop thats gonna tune the bike figure all this out. 

I tried to start it yesterday but no dice.  Before I removed exhaust and air box it would crank right over on full choke.  Now it cranks but no fire. 

Glad the bike is finally coming together though. 

Edit: I changed the oil too while I was at it... figured it would be a good idea since the pipes need to be removed to get to the filter.  Amsoil and K&N did the trick.

[calj737]

There are known fitment headaches with Carpy's system. But it can be done, just like the Mac systems.

Hold the flanges loosely in place, starting with the #2 and #3 cylinders. A couple of threads on only, then outer tubes. Once each is lined up and the exhaust gaskets are in place, secure them evenly. You may need to lift the system from the muffler, or at least support it to accomplish this.

You also need a rear support/hangar. Do not allow the system to hang only from the exhaust studs. And I'd recommend you apply a light coating of Anti-Sieze (gray is fine) on the studs before putting the nuts on.

The fitment issues you are encountering is why many opt for the MotoGP or Lossa system. They just seem more consistent with fewer obstructions. But there are many who run Carpy too, so you've just got wiggle it about to get it attach. Easier with a second set of hands.

[Prez1967]

I appreciate the tips... I'll pull the exhaust off again tonight and get to it.  I was curious about the rear being unsupported.  I'll make up a clamp/bracket to connect to the rear peg support. That shouldnt be too hard or ugly haha

Sure would have liked to hear it run.  Hopefully its an easy tune, or i'll just slap the factory airbox back on and worry about the pods at a later date.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Excited to see how the bobbed rear fender will look. Is it from Carpy? I'm thinking of going with the fiberglass one that he sells.

Also, how did you remove the center stand? When checking out my K7, it looked like I had to remove the swing arm in order to pull the center stand.