Topic: Quick verification of timing marks

[Chaser60]

I just want to be sure I have this correct.   The picture shows the 1-4 timing marks on a 75 cb550.   I am doing the static timing method after a long winter build.   I checked and adjusted the point gaps per the manual before doing this static timing.



When static timing is correct, the light should cut out just as the 2nd mark from left circled and with the "F" in the picture is at the groove/mark on the engine.  Is that correct?

So I am curious, what are the two marks to the right for?   

Doing this method and using this mark, the light was going out early.  It was shutting off about midway between the 2nd and 3rd marks.    I rotated the entire back plate to set the left set of points and then made a small adjustment for the right set per the manual.   My only question here, is that you can see in this picture that the base plate is almost fully rotated clockwise in the adjustment slots.   Does this seem ok?

[dave500]

the two marks to the right are the full advance marks,with a strobe as you increase rpm these will move toward the case index mark.

if the points are old and worn its hard to set them correctly,same goes for the cheaper brand new points you run out of adjustment,the easy way is to set the gap at .35mm,then using a strobe bring up the rpm until the marks stop advancing,holding the rpm adjust the plate until the case mark is between the two advance marks,do this for both sets,where the f mark ends up at idle so be it,these engines live at full advance all the time anyway,consider the advance system as a retard system,it lets you start the engine easy with retarded ignition then brings it up to full advance once your under way,the curve only operates up to about 3000 rpm,youll be riding around 4000 rpm all the time anyway,too much get read into setting and adjusting points,use a dwell meter aswell its easier and more accurate than gapping.

[Chaser60]

thanks Dave.  Wow that is like double the gap.   Never heard of that.   I need to get a strobe and see where I am on this thing

[Deltarider]

Wow that is like double the gap.

.35 mm, that's millimeter.

[Chaser60]

DOH !!   Yes Dave quite clearly labeled that MM and I quite clearly read right through it...running too fast at times.  Thanks for catching that and thank you also for not beating the crap out of me...although deserved.

Cheers

[lucky]

thanks Dave.  Wow that is like double the gap.   Never heard of that.   I need to get a strobe and see where I am on this thing

Buy a dwell meter and really find out what is going on.
When these bikes were first made very few people had a strobe light.
The dealer did not even use a strobe.

The points gap and dwell must be within limits at the same time.
You want to keep the points gap small as possible. Try for the middle value.

[Deltarider]

You want to keep the points gap small as possible.

Why would you want that? If not middle value my advise would be to start at the wider side as points tend to decrease their gap over time.