Topic: CB500 K1 Crimpled clutch lifter/clutch actuator arm...

[zipper]

Hi all!

I were trying to replace the clutch cable on my CB500 K1 thinking it were an easy job but unfortunately it turned out to be harder than i thought.
Some (stupid, stupid, stupid) PO crimpled the basket where the clutch cable is attached at. (see attached picture)

I would like to ply it open in some way, but i'm scared that plying it back open would break the metal. 
The best thing i would like to do is to replace the entire part, but i can't find anywhere to buy it from. Used or new, i just  want a healthy part.

Do you have any idea where i could find one?  As far as i've come i found that the part number is 22810-323-000 but that it's unavailable at all sellers i know of.

The part is this one:
http://www.cmsnl.com/products/sled-cluh-lifter_22810323000/


Or.... do you have any hints on how i could ply it back open without breaking it?


Thanks in advance for any help! (i'm a little desperate)

[DavePhipps]

I've destroyed at least 4 of these in my lifetime.
You can use a Yamaha xs650 clevis to replace it. I Used a drill and a file to get the old one out and then drilled the hole a bit larger to accept the pin for the yamaha part.
Yamaha still makes these and they are cheap.
Part 28
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1976-yamaha-xs650-xs650c/o/m147231#sch224762
Also
http://yambits.co.uk/xs650-clutch-clevis-pin-kit-p-21152.html

[DavePhipps]

Also completely remove and check the housing it goes into. They are sometimes broken.
Part 22841-266-000  and they can be a bit of a pain to find.

[Stev-o]

I recently installed a new clutch cable on my CB500, all my parts were fine, but I looked for replacements just in case.

Member here Eastyork offered to sell me the parts you need at a fair price, PM him, hopefully he still has them.

[zipper]

@DavePhipps: Thanks a lot, that was really brilliant! I'll order the spare immediately and convert mine just in case i don't find a spare. Do you might know if it's possible to deattach the bracket/arm from the thread?
By the way you were right for the thread housing. I found out when i removed the crankcase cover because i found metal pieces in the smudge while trying to check the clutch lifter. Luckily enough i found a spare of it from DSS 
@Stev-o: Great, thx! I sent him a pm, let's hope he still has it! 

[DavePhipps]

I've been told you can remove the arm and use one from a ca77 and most early cb twins. I checked it out and it looked beyond my meager capabilities. I n other words I looked at those small metal wings holding the arm on and said to myself"Yep, I'd rip that up beyond any hope of usability". Then I went to the Yamaha shop and ordered the clevis.
The clevis looks to be a bit longer than the Honda one so adjust accordingly.

[zipper]

I've been told you can remove the arm and use one from a ca77 and most early cb twins. I checked it out and it looked beyond my meager capabilities. I n other words I looked at those small metal wings holding the arm on and said to myself"Yep, I'd rip that up beyond any hope of usability". Then I went to the Yamaha shop and ordered the clevis.
The clevis looks to be a bit longer than the Honda one so adjust accordingly.

Yea, i think it was the smartest thing to do to change the pelvis. In that way it's replaceable if it ever breaks again 
However i've now ordered it, let's hope i get it quickly!

[DavePhipps]

Remember to update us when you install.

[zipper]

Sure i will! Still waiting to receive the clevis kit. Can't wait to get it sorted out.

I even got hold of a spare new genuine clutch arm on ebay just to have as spare, in  case i ruin it i have always a plan b.

[zipper]

It took a while but i finally got the parts! I grinded off the old pop that held the holder and then drilled a hole and put the new one in. Wasn't hard at all and it looks good!

I cleaned and lubed everything well when remounting everything. As DavePhipps said i needed to adjust it due ot the clevis being a little longer, and so did i, but there's a slight problem:
The clutch lever is really hard to use and i'm having troubles shifting with the engine on from the first gear and above, it just won't move and i need to really force it to have it go in.
I maxed out the adjusters above the left crankcase and at the lever but it just doesn't feel right, too hard to shift from 1 and above.

Do you have any hints on how to troubleshoot this further?  I were careful at putting back the steel ball when remounting everything... Did i break something or do i need to adjust something else also? (I replaced the clutch adjuster screw thingy also)

[DavePhipps]

Check the shaft going into the engine and make sure it's still in one piece. I got my 500 cheap because you couldn't use the clutch. Turns out the rod was broken.  Also remove the bolt from the outside of the cover, take everything apart to make sure there is nothing broken or binding in the tube that the lifter goes in.

[zipper]

Thanks Dave, but could it really be that If when I'm in gear the clutch engages and disengages the right way? I have a feeling that it worsens as the engine gers warmer, and it were working okay before I changed the clutch cable and fixed the arm. If it ain't broken do t fix it...oh boy how many times I've heard that! 

 Will however take the left case off and check if I find anything odd. *crossed fingers*

[jvandyke]

I realize this is an old thread but so near to my issue I"m piggy back'n on it.
Does it matter which way the actuator arm goes in?  I "think" the round end is cable side, flat is clutch (right)
bit hard to tell from schematic (end of page one, this thread)
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=14273.0
I'm fighting what I believe to be a really still clutch, have just shortened the cable (to accommodate clip ons) and the cable routing and such seems good to me, it's just quite stiff, everything seems free moving and lubed, the actuator isn't broken, the ball bearing seems present in the adjuster although I'm second guessing myself as I type.  I tried to extract it last night (the ball bearing) but half hearted, it fell out last time through..............better check that I guess.
So, anyway, actuator ends?  Which way?  Bike has 13,000 miles and probably I'm the first to lube the adjuster but grease is coming through the zerk and the adjuster moves freely (now) maybe it has the infamous "wear" spot after all.
It was working fine on last ride but by the end of the run my clutch hand was done.  It's that stiff.
Found my answer in this thread.  Domed end toward the clutch.  That's how I put it back despite previous statement.  hmmm, something isn't happy then..........
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,14273.msg1149811.html#msg1149811