Topic: to restore the finish on an all-black Honda: paint or powder ?

[grcamna2]

I just got a 1981 Honda CB125S that came all black from the factory,it's been sitting outside all it's life and I want to put a very durable black coating onto everything.
I was considering painting everything w/ rattle can(I live in an Apt. & work out of a storage locker w/ no electricity..)and then clear after I get lots of parts sandblasted.
I was also considering having most of the parts powder coated including the tank,I hear powder is a much more durable coating and very resistant to scuffs and scratches.I can afford a bit of powder coating I think;could I get it done at an 'industrial' type powder coating place? I won't be too concerned w/ how sparkly it turns out really..,I just want a nice uniform black gloss that's as close to mine as possible.
                    What do you members think? What're the 'pro's' & 'con's' of both  ??

[grcamna2]

Hey Cal,
 How do you like powder coating ? Have you done both types? paint & powder ?

[faux fiddy]

I've got a pottery kiln that I picked up and it needs repairs, but once that's done I would like to get the cheap powder kit from Harbor freight.

The Kiln is large enough to fit a tank in.

All I really know about it is to make sure to mask anything you don't want coated or you have problems, and I think there are threads here where people were disappointed with their preofessionally coated parts that they had to tap holes or had clearance problems because the coating is thick and wasn't supposed to be on mating surface.

[grcamna2]

I love powdercoat for it's durability and near flawless finish. Had LOTS of things coated. Also have many tanks, fenders, seats and other bodywork painted. Wider variety of specialty finishes and paint effects with paint, but probably not a factor for you.

I have used powdercoat as a base layer on tanks I then painted. After doing some extensive metal on the tank, and then stripping it chemically, I bead blasted it and handed it to the powder coater. He did a light blast on it, then powdered it. Made for a perfect "enveloped" finish to prohibit rust. I chose that method because I wanted to get into every nook and cranny with full coverage, something I felt easier with powder.

Lastly, I gave me a perfect finish to use as a reference for final bodywork under the paint. Can't hide anything from flat black powdercoat on metal.

Paint on anything can be great, depends on the painter and the product.  Power costs more than DIY paint, but there's a lot less effort on you.

That's what I needed to hear man,thanks. I like the protection idea,this bike has had the opposite all it's life;I think the PO thought it was 'yard art' and it's a real shame.I really don't think he ever washed it. I want that protection because I may have to park it outside a lot also.Do you recommend that I install small 6mm bolts into all the threaded holes & possibly wooden dowels,etc.  into round holes(steering head,swing arm,etc.)that I don't want coated/painted? I'm not sure how much heat will be inside that 'oven' and I don't want to do have problems w/ fitment later on. What's the best stuff to use to mask things off ? 

[grcamna2]

I've got a pottery kiln that I picked up and it needs repairs, but once that's done I would like to get the cheap powder kit from Harbor freight.

The Kiln is large enough to fit a tank in.

All I really know about it is to make sure to mask anything you don't want coated or you have problems, and I think there are threads here where people were disappointed with their preofessionally coated parts that they had to tap holes or had clearance problems because the coating is thick and wasn't supposed to be on mating surface.

I appreciate the information fiddy.

[grcamna2]

OK Cal,
I guess I can try to PM Powderman and see if he'll give me a 'ball park' figure once I break the bike completely down;I need the 'tech' assistance part so I make sure to protect all my non-powder surfaces...  I was considering trying to find an industrial type business in hopes of getting a 'fleet rate' but maybe that won't be the best idea?...

[faux fiddy]

@Faux - most surfaces need only a beadblast of fine grit glass to be powdercoated. I know that my guy also pre-bakes parts to drive out impurities and grime before application. And of course, then cleans the surface thoroughly with a chem wipe.

Good point- A friend had some truck ("Wagon") wheels done and there was a bit of grease or something in the seams that wasn't cleaned out properly.  He paid good money for it, and it blistered and fell apart, and was delivered to him that way. I think he should have b1tched a little more about the quality or price or something.

[grcamna2]

Does that coating help the pistons run smoother or w/ less friction 

[grcamna2]

OK Cal,
I guess I can try to PM Powderman and see if he'll give me a 'ball park' figure once I break the bike completely down;I need the 'tech' assistance part so I make sure to protect all my non-powder surfaces...  I was considering trying to find an industrial type business in hopes of getting a 'fleet rate' but maybe that won't be the best idea?...

That "fleet rate" quality is why people complain about their jobs. Powderman probably won't want you to tape or mask anything; it's his portion of the service, and the mark of his professionalism.

I would prioritize the components against your budget for PC, then if you can't do the whole project as you want, paint what is a lower concern for you.

As an aside, if your tank does get powdercoated, you can not have a liner installed beforehand. The heat compromises it. Line it afterwards for best results. And if you are going to park this outside, I would line it regardless (personal opinion).

@Faux - I always remove wheel bearings and bushings when powder coating for that very reason. The baking cycles will draw out the grease/oil and destroy the finished results. That's why my guy pre-bakes and chem wipes. Let's him avoid that failure.

Purely as an example of how well a pro can PC, this piston is coated on the dome with one product, and the skirts with another different product. And the underside is different still from the skirt. Thickness? Read the etching in top. Results speak for themselves.

Cal, I'll remember these tips,especially about the tank liner because I was considering that also.

[grcamna2]

The Cermet on top reflects the thermal event back up, the Dry Film Lubricant is a friction modifier to promote a slippery(er) surface to reduce wear, and the underside is treated in an oil dispersion coating to shed oil from remaining in contact with the piston to lower oil temps.

Everything is done for thermal control in my engines when I fully rebuild them. The lower the oil temp, the longer life in the engine. The hotter the spark, the better the HP and leaner the burn. The DFL is there to aide in longevity and improve rpm cycles.

That's hi-tech stuff man    Thanks