Author Topic: 1975 cb550 first build (project gaijin) (Read 5946 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 18, 2014, 04:35:16 AM »

Adv- you asked a bit ago about solving that "gap" between the seat and tank. I don't see any possible remedy short of a completely custom seat that cinches up tight to the rear of the tank, and "climbs" the back of it, or cutting and re-welding your hoop. Or a custom tank. I think the hoop mod is probably the easiest remedy if you must fix it.

Personally, I'd live with it. Once you paint and coat the frame and tank to your final scheme, it will go away a great deal more. This issue is the only thing the gives me the stick about 550 tanks. I have a few early models and the opening at the rear is problematic for mounting or custom seats. The later tanks seem to wrap the top down much farther, and have a really nice, "rectangular" line to them. But I don't prefer the gas door from them. Heads or tails?

I'll be spending the late fall/early winter cutting, re-welding, and glassing my 550 to fix my gap, which I never would have done except it have to re-paint it anyway. This "issue" is one I've tucked away as a caveat for the 500/550 when I go custom on them.

adventure_prone · « **Reply #26 on:** August 18, 2014, 08:31:05 PM »

Made my upper rear shock mounts today.
Before and after

In the shock

I'm going to weld on both sides of the plug then grind the back half somewhat flush. Made it long so I can get a good bead on it, I'm happy with the way they turned out. One less thing that needs to get done

calj737 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 19, 2014, 03:34:56 AM »

That's a hearty looking piece, as it should be. Quick question, what threading did you use? They look pretty coarse compared to stock metrics on there now.

adventure_prone · « **Reply #28 on:** August 19, 2014, 06:08:32 AM »

Thanks I think it should be good enough. I went with a 1/2-20 thread, just cause I had the hardware on hand

calj737 · « **Reply #29 on:** August 19, 2014, 06:12:24 AM »

Blasphemer! Installing SAE threads on a metric machine! The punishment for heresy is forfeiture of your bike, you know? Please finish it up soon so I can come along and add it my collection

adventure_prone · « **Reply #30 on:** August 19, 2014, 06:59:13 AM »

I'll let you re thread it when it gets to your place lol gotta trade me your '74 though

Tews19 · « **Reply #31 on:** August 19, 2014, 07:15:06 AM »

Quote from: adventure_prone on August 18, 2014, 08:31:05 PM

Made my upper rear shock mounts today.
Before and after

In the shock

I'm going to weld on both sides of the plug then grind the back half somewhat flush. Made it long so I can get a good bead on it, I'm happy with the way they turned out. One less thing that needs to get done

Some really nice work there. I'm sure you could sell those on the site. I'm curious how will you attach to the frame?

calj737 · « **Reply #32 on:** August 19, 2014, 07:57:27 AM »

I'd think, with no disrespect to Adv, that most members would require metric threads. Not all lathes will turn them, so I suspect thats exactly why ADV had to use SAE.

1/2-20 is a very strong thread, just will confuse some folks if they attempt to replace the acorns with metrics.

Tews - simple enough to pass the slug end thru the frame mount, then weld from both sides (ADV, your plan?)

Turning steel on lathes (or alloy for that matter) makes a really pretty part in my opinion.

adventure_prone · « **Reply #33 on:** August 19, 2014, 08:21:15 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 19, 2014, 07:57:27 AM

I'd think, with no disrespect to Adv, that most members would require metric threads. Not all lathes will turn them, so I suspect thats exactly why ADV had to use SAE.

Metric wouldn't be an issue. Just limited on the number of metric dies I have to choose from.

1/2-20 is a very strong thread, just will confuse some folks if they attempt to replace the acorns with metrics.

Tews - simple enough to pass the slug end thru the frame mount, then weld from both sides (ADV, your plan?)
yes sir that's it exactly
Turning steel on lathes (or alloy for that matter) makes a really pretty part in my opinion.

750mors · « **Reply #34 on:** August 19, 2014, 08:57:04 PM »

Coming along really nicely Adventure! Loving it!

adventure_prone · « **Reply #35 on:** August 20, 2014, 01:31:21 PM »

Decided I wanted to do the gulf light blue and orange livery on the bike. So I do a Google search for paint codes and now I'm mad.

the frame on this bike is basically the same in the rear as mine

adventure_prone · « **Reply #36 on:** August 20, 2014, 08:50:23 PM »

Suspension slugs installed. Starting to get excited

need to find a wiring diagram so I can start cleaning up the stuff I don't need

calj737 · « **Reply #37 on:** August 21, 2014, 04:45:40 AM »

Here you go-

Are you planning to run a pipe beyond that header? Might have some tuning issues without some backpressure...

adventure_prone · « **Reply #38 on:** August 21, 2014, 04:58:19 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 21, 2014, 04:45:40 AM

Here you go-

Are you planning to run a pipe beyond that header? Might have some tuning issues without some backpressure...

Thanks for the diagram.. I'm looking for one now, my buddy just replaced his stock muffler on on his bmw s1000rr, so I might find a way to slip that on. The issue I'm coming across is the cognito moto Rearsets are perfectly in the way to run exhaust up the side. It'll have a muffler on it before I ride it

calj737 · « **Reply #39 on:** August 21, 2014, 05:05:05 AM »

The problem is the Mac header; it exits the the collector without redirecting the pipe to a muffler outboard of the frame. Differing years of 550s had different brake pedals for that reason. The MotoGP header and exhaust has a very subtle "S" from underneath to aide in clearing the frame for that reason. Still might have the occasionally conflict, unless you raise the rearsets too.

Might see if an exhaust shop can bend you up a small offset pipe and that has the transition from pipe to BMW slip-in welded on too. Could even bend it up a tad too if you prefer.

Or, since you weld, you can buy from here the components and cut and weld them to your hearts desire.
http://www.c5ignitions.com/exhaust-kits.html

adventure_prone · « **Reply #40 on:** August 21, 2014, 05:20:54 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 21, 2014, 05:05:05 AM

The problem is the Mac header; it exits the the collector without redirecting the pipe to a muffler outboard of the frame. Differing years of 550s had different brake pedals for that reason. The MotoGP header and exhaust has a very subtle "S" from underneath to aide in clearing the frame for that reason. Still might have the occasionally conflict, unless you raise the rearsets too.

Might see if an exhaust shop can bend you up a small offset pipe and that has the transition from pipe to BMW slip-in welded on too. Could even bend it up a tad too if you prefer.

Or, since you weld, you can buy from here the components and cut and weld them to your hearts desire.
http://www.c5ignitions.com/exhaust-kits.html

Yup I hate this mac header. But I'll just make it work for now, I might be able to cut off the muffler of the back half of the mac and rotate it to get me a little closer to the area I want

adventure_prone · « **Reply #41 on:** August 21, 2014, 09:27:46 PM »

Welded up the battery tray
I don't like the look of it at all. I think it kills the lines of the bike but I'm not sure what I can do about it, the electronics have to go somewhere sadly haha

question for people using electronic tray. What are you using/doing to make sure your stuff isn't hitting each other and shorting stuff out?

Side note, I was messing around with exhaust placement I'd love to do something like this but I just don't have the room to do it lol look awesome though!

calj737 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 22, 2014, 04:43:18 AM »

Isolate your wires into a block connector, use heat shrink tubing along their paths, and screw mount the components to the tray bottom. You can even place grommets between the tray and the component for extra measure.

Re: your exhaust idea, you could get there but you'd probably need to drop to a 16" rear and use a flatter slip-on.

adventure_prone · « **Reply #43 on:** August 22, 2014, 08:55:29 PM »

Redoing the electronics tray all together. I'm going to build a box that fills the entire upper triangle. Then splitting the box into to compartments upper half for electronics and lower half for storage

adventure_prone · « **Reply #44 on:** August 26, 2014, 05:39:16 PM »

I hate wiring so much...

calj737 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 26, 2014, 05:51:02 PM »

Quote from: adventure_prone on August 26, 2014, 05:39:16 PM

I hate wiring so much...

Time to step up to the best thing in the world then...

MotoGadget M-Button in headlight

And the "brains" of the whole affair

adventure_prone · « **Reply #46 on:** August 26, 2014, 08:13:02 PM »

I found this which I think I'm going to start copying tomorrow

This SHOULD be the bare minimums to run

calj737 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 27, 2014, 04:17:52 AM »

If you do plan to run a gauge, then use the BROWN from the headlight switch to power the instrument light.

Also, it's advisable to move the ground wire for your headlight out of the bucket and to the frame, behind the steering bearings.

Tews19 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 27, 2014, 11:09:29 AM »

Cal that looks like a piece of art! I'm sure you could start producing that set up and members would start buying them. Is the moto part itself pricey?

calj737 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 27, 2014, 12:24:15 PM »

$340 for the M-Unit. About 1 hour to install and move all the wiring. Endless features and reliability. Priceless!

News:

Author Topic: 1975 cb550 first build (project gaijin) (Read 5946 times)