Author Topic: To pod or not to pod!  (Read 7766 times)

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Offline zstoldt

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To pod or not to pod!
« on: June 18, 2014, 07:35:53 PM »
Hey guys, new member here.

I bought this CB750 and I decided I like it, so I invested in some K&N pod filters. When I bought it and drove it home, it only had two pods on it and the other two carbs were open.

Will I absolutely have to jet the carbs when I put on the new filters or does that depend on how well the bike runs with increased air flow?

Thanks, Zak

I'm new to working on bikes so feel free to educate me!

Here are the pods I purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7H3ZY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also, there is gasoline leaking out of the two carbs that don't have filters on them. Is this normal or is it a bad sign? What could be wrong?

« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 07:37:31 PM by zstoldt »
-Zak

Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2014, 07:41:12 PM »
Pods.  Jetting is the stopgap fix.  Problem is you lose laminar flow through the carbs and mess up the air pulses causing fuel to not draw in correctly.  99% of the time you will have to re-jet to get it to run, but never as good as the airbox if you go straight pods.  Ideally, if the filters meet your CFM per cylinder need, then you should be able to run factory jets if you put proper runners between the filter and the carb.

Essentially think of it like this.  Cylinder is drawing same volume of air, therefore it needs same volume of fuel.  The rejetting is so instead of a smooth fuel draw, you drag in big globs of gas in burps.

Personally something I am fully intent on doing, but if you have time, try yourself is get correct diameter aluminum tubing and some couplers.  Put them on carb, about equal length of the factory box runners.  Radius the filter side of tubes and then put filters on them.  If feeling frisky for fab, you want the heat shield or else the inner carbs will draw in lots of hot air.

(edit, going to grab some pics so it is more apparent)
« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 07:43:30 PM by RJ CB450 »
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Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2014, 07:57:42 PM »
Okie, pics.  Note the intake on the open carbs.  All square.  As air rushes in, much like air say going over the back of a semi, you get vorticies.  There isn't the proper shape or length to stabilize the air.



Now if you look at the standard high performance replacements, note the shape of the air intake.  They are gradually radiused to ensure smooth flow.  Aftermarket, they are velocity stacks when bolted on.



Now the wierd part of the market that I find is that K&N or aftermarket don't sell velocity stacks for their pods....  There are a few people who make them independently for other bikes, but nothing I have seen for the old stuff.  Not that hard either with modern CNC laythes.....

Now one big difference between bikes and cars is that bikes have the one carb per cylinder causing intake pulses.  Air has inertia so the length allows air movement even when piston is not on an intake stroke either from velocity, or vacuum through the carb.  A car that isn't I/R has all the intakes drawing through common carbs which creates a constant and smooth airflow.
74 CB450 K7 Supersport, 82 CB650sc Nighthawk, 1982 CBX 1000, 2015 Tiger XCx.... And some ol minibike with a 5hp Briggs.

Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2014, 08:12:42 PM »
A car that isn't I/R has all the intakes drawing through common carbs which creates a constant and smooth airflow.
Huh??? Fuel is heavier that air and doesn't travel as well as air around corners, which most car manifolds have lots of.
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Offline Stev-o

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2014, 08:15:54 PM »


Will I absolutely have to jet the carbs when I put on the new filters...


What size jets do you currently have?
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Offline zstoldt

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2014, 08:19:07 PM »


Will I absolutely have to jet the carbs when I put on the new filters...


What size jets do you currently have?

I'm not sure what size my jets are or how to tell. Sorry for my complete lack of knowledge...

I know where the jets are, but I don't know how to tell what size they are. Do I need to remove my carbs and open them up to tell?

Thanks!
-Zak

Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2014, 08:22:11 PM »

Huh??? Fuel is heavier that air and doesn't travel as well as air around corners, which most car manifolds have lots of.
[/quote]

Which is why on most of the old v8s, the outside cylinders ran leaner than inside.  That is why dual quads, or six packs are better for high performance.  Mmm.... high rise dual holley 640s on tunnel ram....

Well, back to topic, the happenings after the carburetor matters not.  But the air draw through the carburetor is what matters in this discussion.  When you have multiple pulses in sequence, you end up with a smooth flow.  Whether it is water, air or an AC->DC rectifier.  Because our motorcycles have I/R carburetors, we get pulses.  Can see it when syncronizing carbs if you have a sensitive setup.
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Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2014, 08:26:09 PM »

I'm not sure what size my jets are or how to tell. Sorry for my complete lack of knowledge...

I know where the jets are, but I don't know how to tell what size they are. Do I need to remove my carbs and open them up to tell?

Thanks!

Usually they have the number stamped on them, but not always...

Now, I don't know what your carbs are like since I only have CV carbed bikes.  But mine are all accessible through the float bowls.  Toughest part is if the screws are glued in or can get a driver there.  Might need a carb adjustment driver.  That is a driver that has a geared end at like 90 degrees so you can get into tight places.  The JIS crosshead screws are a pain in the arse and I needed to use an impact driver to get mine out.
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Offline Stev-o

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2014, 08:31:47 PM »
There should be a number on it, such as this...





Not sure what RB is talking about, I use a stubby screwdriver.
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Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2014, 08:39:40 PM »

Well, back to topic, the happenings after the carburetor matters not.
Bull#$%*!!! What happens BEFORE the venturi matters not, or very little, with regards to "ram" tuning. Any pressure wave is reflected at the first obstruction on the path back from the intake valve to the carburetor, which will be the venturi in this case.
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Offline Stev-o

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2014, 08:55:46 PM »


Essentially think of it like this.  Cylinder is drawing same volume of air, therefore it needs same volume of fuel. 


What? This does not make sense.  Essentially. 
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Offline zstoldt

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2014, 09:21:53 PM »
Thanks for all the answers guys!

I bought a nifty screw driver that can bend sideways!

I am supposed to get the pods tomorrow, so should I put them on right away and see how it runs or should I be doing something else first?

I'll post some more pictures tomorrow when there is daylight in Indiana.

-Zak
-Zak

Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2014, 09:36:12 PM »
Zak, just put them on and see how the bike runs. Pull a spark plug and see if it's black or white: black and sooty=too much fuel, bone white=too little fuel.
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Offline zstoldt

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2014, 09:39:55 PM »
Zak, just put them on and see how the bike runs. Pull a spark plug and see if it's black or white: black and sooty=too much fuel, bone white=too little fuel.

Okay, thanks Scottly!
-Zak

Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2014, 10:17:05 PM »
First of zstoldt, sorry to bring debate into your thread.  Scottly says true.  Start with trying it out.  But at the same time, I have never seen a direct to stock carb pod setup regardless of re-jetting that actually ran proper.  Lots of people can get them working, but working is not running.  It is interesting because in my vintage car groups, people run IR sidedraft webers all the time.  And nobody would dare run without their stacks.  It simply never works.  But with vintage bikes, outside of the race built and mesh over velocity stacks, I never see people with their horns and pods....

Bull#$%*!!! What happens BEFORE the venturi matters not, or very little, with regards to "ram" tuning. Any pressure wave is reflected at the first obstruction on the path back from the intake valve to the carburetor, which will be the venturi in this case.

I never said ram tuning doesnt matter.  It doesn't matter in this topic. Removing the airbox and their runners, then replacing them with pods affects airflow into the carb.  Thereby disrupting the whole system.  The physical properties of the ram had not changed.  Which carries into the second quote.

What? This does not make sense.  Essentially.

Makes perfect sense.  An engine is an air pump.  Plain and simple.  It's rotational speed is governed by nothing more than power vs load.  Engine is 750cc, it will draw in 750cc of air.  Depending on the restriction, the density of this air changed.  At density it needs a volume of fuel for proper mix.  Airbox and filter do create a vacuum, changing the atmospheric pressure before the carburetor, but not a whole lot. 

The acceleration of the air through the venturi is what creates the real vacuum to make this work.  Throttle and choke also create vacuum cause when you have an air pump with restricted inlet, you get a vacuum pump.  When the air is turbulent though, this gets disrupted.  The key to the jets working is a smooth airflow over the port.  When you have ugly pulsing and turbulent air, it doesn't work right. 

Try it for yourself.  Take a bottle and put a piece of dry ice in it, or hot water, or whatever.  Blow pulses over top of the bottle neck and watch the CO2 draw out of it.  Do the same thing, blowing same amount of air, but blow giving the rasberry.  Doesn't work for crap.

So pods.  They do not change displacement, they do not change the ram.  They do not change the airbox vacuum (significantly), they do not change choke, throttle or jetting.  They only change the airflow in.  So if the amount of air the engine is drawing in for a set RPM/throttle position has not changed, then why would the fuel it needs change?  It really doesn't.  With exception of pods without sufficient CFM, every pod conversion I have seen has mentioned needing larger jets.  This means that the fuel draw isn't working as efficiently.

For your carbs, if you have mechanical sliders, then it really isn't so big of a deal cause you can adjust those.  With vacuum sliders, then it causes all sorts of problems.  Pods on the CV carbs without the horn just run terrible.  Nothing wrong with pods, they just need to be tuned.  In fact, the first CV carbs had essentially a pod filter.  They just had the horn built into them.  Hundred dollar a piece air filters for my 450...



Single air filter for the carb, Keihin carburetors.  CV carbs weren't found on the SOHC4s outside of the 81 and 82 650 if I remember right.  Key is laminar flow.  Cars, boats, bikes, paint guns, bug sprayers, car wash soap sprayer.  They all work on the same mechanic to draw in fluid.  And they all stop working if they do not have proper flow.  Is fluid dynamics.  The fact it is a motorcycle carb doesn't change this.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 10:22:51 PM by RJ CB450 »
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Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2014, 10:34:06 PM »
  Airbox and filter do create a vacuum, changing the atmospheric pressure before the carburetor, but not a whole lot.


This is the key point: some oem airfilter setups Do produce a significant pressure drop. My CV carbed FT500 required an increase in main jet size from 140 to 185, and it is still a bit lean, measured on a dyno with an A/F meter, after replacing the stock airbox/filter with a K&N WHILE retaining the stock carb-to-airbox rubber "stack". Turbulence at the carb entrance IS NOT the issue. BTW, I have DCOE Webers on my CB750. ;)
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Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2014, 10:50:40 PM »
Let me just say that, if you have limited knowledge of carburetors, and aren't good at tuning, stick with the stock air box, pods will keep you up at night, they are a pain in the butt to tune and will NEVER  be better than the stock set up on a stock Honda 4  with factory carbs and intake system, its all designed to work as one, regardless of what anyone says...
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Offline RJ CB450

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2014, 11:03:16 PM »

This is the key point: some oem airfilter setups Do produce a significant pressure drop. My CV carbed FT500 required an increase in main jet size from 140 to 185, and it is still a bit lean, measured on a dyno with an A/F meter, after replacing the stock airbox/filter with a K&N WHILE retaining the stock carb-to-airbox rubber "stack". Turbulence at the carb entrance IS NOT the issue. BTW, I have DCOE Webers on my CB750. ;)

That is a fair leap in size.  Without knowing more on the bike, is tough to comment.  Sounds like something more at play than just a filter change.  Exhaust? Cams?  Engine wear? Too late to go into the discussion.

Restriction is an issue that some have on the 650s.  Some people remove the intake duct because it is restrictive and do re-tuning.  Big difference is that the air remains constant through the powerband.  When you have a poor entry, the dynamics become much more wild I guess is one way to put it.  I need to get my 450 assembled so I can start on my next project.  This discussion comes up so much, I want to get a junk bike to build a custom and do A/F mapping, flowbenching, etc to get some quantitative data for this debate.  Things like air pressure after the filter, etc.  With an airbox and proper flowing air filter, it should be near atmospheric inside the airbox with a good air filter.
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Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2014, 11:06:42 PM »
Stock 750 air filters have more surface area than 4 pods, from what I've seen, while the smaller bikes have less area stock than 4 pods. If an increase in jet size is required, it means the motor is processing more fuel and air. If a smaller jet is required, as may be the case with pods on a 750, the motor is not operating as efficiently. 
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Offline scottly

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2014, 11:12:11 PM »
  Sounds like something more at play than just a filter change.  Exhaust? Cams?  Engine wear?
Nope, the only change was the filter. The exhaust was changed later during testing, but did not noticeably affect the tuning. 
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Offline KeithB

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #20 on: June 19, 2014, 04:14:53 AM »
I have worked with a 750 with pods, a 750 with stock box and now a 550 with stock box.
I will not go back to pods on a stock carb set.
Yes, you can get them to "work" but I have had better overall results with the stock air intake setup.
RJ CB450 and TwoTired have (not this thread) make excellent arguments for the stock air box.
Considering the OP doesn't even know how to check jet size, I suggest he stay away from tuning for the time being.
Just my $.02 worth...
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Offline martin99

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2014, 06:24:43 AM »
As I read it, this bike already had pods when the OP bought it so for all we know it may already have been rejetted. In that case, switching to a standard airbox without changing the jets back to stock will bring just as many problems. So we really need to know what jets he has.

As the K&Ns are on the way, I'd go with the try-it-and-see suggestion first.
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Offline zstoldt

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2014, 06:53:15 AM »
As I read it, this bike already had pods when the OP bought it so for all we know it may already have been rejetted. In that case, switching to a standard airbox without changing the jets back to stock will bring just as many problems. So we really need to know what jets he has.

As the K&Ns are on the way, I'd go with the try-it-and-see suggestion first.

The K&N's should be here today. I'm going to try them out.

If I get bad results, I will check my jets.

Expect some pictures later today.

I did some research on tuning. Do you guys have any rules of thumb or tips when tuning carbs?
-Zak

Offline lucky

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2014, 07:41:36 AM »
What year is the bike we are talking about?

Then we can talk about jetting.

Offline lucky

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Re: To pod or not to pod!
« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2014, 07:44:47 AM »
Let me just say that, if you have limited knowledge of carburetors, and aren't good at tuning, stick with the stock air box, pods will keep you up at night, they are a pain in the butt to tune and will NEVER  be better than the stock set up on a stock Honda 4  with factory carbs and intake system, its all designed to work as one, regardless of what anyone says...


I agree completely.
If you have no or very little experience use the stock parts or you will become very frustrated.
There is no way a stock bike will run right with pods and stock jets. NEVER.