Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right

[oldhatt45]

Was getting ready to put the carbs back on the Stay Plate and was cleaning off some Gasket sealer and noticed that I have a piece missing.

Need to ask for help in getting a replacement.  These are 086A carbs on my CB750 K6.

It should be in the empty hole next to where the Number 5 is stamped.
Don't even know what the part is called?

Thanks,

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

OK, so I found out that the "Open" Holes in Carbs #1 & #4 are supposed to be open without any brass fittings in there.
So that's a relief knowing that I didn't blow them across the garage and into unknown territory when I was cleaning them. 

Thanks to those that Helped me out.  Harisuluv and Davez134.

So I have managed to avert disaster yet again.   

More to follow shortly.

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

So, after my panic of this morning, we received information from Houston and solved the problem.

I then set bout cleaning up a few small pieces and cut new Fuel Line.
3.5mm for the Fuel Vents.  These 2 pieces that come off the inside of carb 2 & 3 and are held together by a little white clip.
5.5mm for the Fuel Line that comes from the Gas Tank.  Needed to cut 3 pieces and use the new little spring clips.

I put the carbs back together on the cleaned up (a little bit) stay plate.  Adjusted the choke lever connecting arms.  And then took it apart again so I could put in the plate for the return spring.  LOL  Well I needed the practice anyhow. 
So, with the spring return plate in place between carbs 2 & 3, I put some anti-seize on the mounting screws for the carbs and locked that all down. 

Choke works fine and the slides work fine as well.  All buttery smooth!  When I assembled the carbs, I used a drop of Singer Sewing Machine Oil on each of the slides and the choke mechanism. 

Also put new O-Rings in the Fuel Connectors.  The carbs all got New Bowl Gaskets and the standard new Float valve gasket.  Also replaced the O-Ring on the Bowl Drain Screws.  Not much else to replace on these carbs except jets which I did not replace, but cleaned up in the Ultrasonic using the Simple Green HD and some water. 

When I took the carbs apart for cleaning I checked the Air Screws.  The #2 & #3 carbs were all set at 1 & 1/8 turns out.  That is where I put them when I reassembled them and the #1 & #4 were set at 1 turn out and that's where they are.  So they should be close.  I do need to check the float levels and will likely do that next week.

So tonight the free world can sleep easy knowing that my carbs are ready to be put back on the K6

Charlie
Who is getting closer and closer.   
And may just get to ride before the end of the season.   

[Stev-o]

Good job, Charlie. Glad to hear I can sleep easy tonight!

[mrbreeze]

When you get your float heights set go back over them with the clear tube method. This will ensure that they are all uniform. Lots of info about that.....use the search function. Sounds like it's coming together Charlie!

[oldhatt45]

mrbreeze,

Good tip.
Thanks for reminding me about the clear tube method for float heights.

Was just putting a list of things left to do, so this goes on it.

And hopefully it will come together.    Soon.

Charlie

[Davez134]

Oh yeah, looking good! Nice rack 

[Restoration Fan]

Nice job, Charlie!

[oldhatt45]

Today with every expectation of getting some significant stuff done, I went out to the garage and put the new strainer in the petcock.  I then was going to put the new gas tank latch on and opened my freshly cleaned and waiting gas tank.

UGHHHH!!!!!!  The tank was a MESS! 
I had done the vinegar soak for a week and flushed it out with warm water than used the compressor to dry it really good.  Then put in some Marvel Mystery Oil shook it, rolled it to get the whole tank coated and let it sit.

What I didn't do was to use baking soda in the water to neutralize the vinegar!!!!!!'
BIG Mistake!!!!  Went out and bought 4 more gallons of Vinegar and it's now soaking again.

What a demoralizing event.

SO after that, I got the Oil Tank hose off, only to find out that it already had a Crush Washer in it.
Ughh.  Another task that didn't turn out the way I expected.  So I put the Oil tank back on and got it all squared away.

Then I did something that couldn't possibly get me into anymore trouble today.  Started cleaning up the Tappet covers.
And promptly ran out of the red drill mounted Scotchbrite pads after getting 4 tappet covers done.

Decided that today just wasn't my day so I went out and played with the Dogs for the rest of the afternoon.
And it rained!!!! 

I should have gone antique shopping with rb550four!!!   

Charlie
Who is currently having a Corona and writing my tale of woe.   
 

[Stev-o]

Confucius say:

"A bad day work on bike is better than a day shop for antiques"!

[Restoration Fan]

Charlie,
If you have a polishing wheel on your bench grinder, take a larger sized prescription pill bottle.  Then, take the cardboard from a toilet paper roll and put that inside the bottle with about a millimeter or two sticking out.  At that point, you should be able to screw your tappet cover onto the pill bottle top (the cardboard just kind of takes up any slack between the pill bottle and the tappet threads).

It lets you hold onto the pill bottle and polish the tappet covers without burning your fingers.  Rafi (edwardmorris) taught me that trick and it worked like a charm on the tappet covers for Stella.

Ron

[oldhatt45]

Today after calming down from the gas tank mess and letting the tnk sit overnight with Vinegar in it, I decided to use the Prep & Etch method.  So here is what I did and what I used.

Material needed:
1. One Gallon Klean & Strip brand Prep & Etch
2. One Gallon Acetone
3. Box of Baking Soda (like the Arm & Hammer you use in the Refrigerator)
4. Container of Marvel Mystery Oil or a Quart of ATF (for after coating tank)
5. 2 or 3 of the Gallon Size empty (and cleaned) plastic jugs
6. An empty 5 gallon plastic bucket
7. Rubber stopper for petcock bung (1/2" - 5/8" tapered)
8. Rubber stopper for Tank Fill Lid (If you are or have taken the Tank Lid off)
9. Water (like from a garden hose is good)
10. Rubber Gloves (for those that are conscious of their skin and keeping it)

Procedure:
1: Remove the petcock
2: Drain the old gas or whatever else is in there, as much as possible into the 5 gallon can.  Then empty and clean out the 5 gallon can.
3: Put the small rubber stopper in the petcock bung.
4: Pour in 1 gallon full strength phosphoric Prep & Etch (home depot around $15)
5: Give it a couple good shakes, let sit about 5 minutes, shake more, let sit another 5 minutes, repeat until the tank
    looks  like gray metal.  In my case it took between 30 and 60 minutes of this.  My tank was not too bad.
6: While the Prep & Etch is working, prepare the rinse solution.  Put 1/2 gallon of water in each of the 1 gallon plastic
    jugs.  Add a cup of Baking Soda and shake.  Then add  the other half gallon of water and shake again.
7: Drain the Prep & Etch into the empty 5 gallon Jug.  Rust was gone as far as I could tell.
8: Rinse with baking soda & water.  Slosh it around real good.  DO NOT SEAL THE TANK UP TIGHT!!!! When doing this
    rinse the first time, it will likely bubble up while neutralizing the Prep & Etch.  And your tank could build up pressure
    and spew liquid all over the place if you do.
9: Drain the Baking Soda & Water into the empty 1 gallon jug.
10: Rinse Again with the other gallon of Baking Soda and Water.  Slosh it around reall good getting sides, top, front and
      back.   Again, DO NOT SEAL THE TANK!!!
11: Drain the Baking Soda and Water into the empty 1 gallon jug.
12: Now rinse 2x with just water (from the garden hose).
13: Pour in about a quart of acetone and slosh around. This will cause the water to evaporate. 
14: Drain the Acetone out into another empty plastic jug.
15: Hit the inside of the tank with air from your compressor.  Probably around 5 minutes should have the tank dry.
16: Pour in the bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and slosh it around.  You can leave it in until you fill the tank with gas. 
      When you fill with gas, put  couple of quarts of gas in and slosh around then drain and then completely fill the tank
      with gas.

My tank looks really god now, but I was not quick enough with the Marvel Mystery Oil to avoid a little flash rust, but it looks like when I go to add gas, it will wash right out.  Let's just say I'm pleased with the results from this method and it was fairly quick.

Will post again in a few days if the tank starts to rust again.

After completing this, I started cleaning up the Valve Cover.  Only got about half done, so tomorrow will try to do more.

Charlie

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Gas Tank Redemption! 

[oldhatt45]

And No Dueling Banjo's!!!! 

The only thing I neglected to mention Is that in the above procedure, you need to work fairly quickly from step 8 on!

And then I just went to the mail box and my new Joker Machine Oil Pressure Gauge arrived!
Way Cool!!!!!

Charlie

[Stev-o]

No Joking?

[oldhatt45]

Nope!!!!

It is Purty though!!!!
Can't wait to see it actually read around 60. 

Charlie

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

They used to be local here in Southern California before moving to Havasu City, Arizona.  Super nice people and you got to "shop" in their huge aisles of stock bins like a kid in a candy store!

[oldhatt45]

Hey Guys,

I managed to corral the second ugliest CB750 seat on the planet as a test to see if I like it. 

It came without the hinges and latch.  I'd rather not remove these parts from my original seat.
So, if you have a set of hinges and a latch for a CB750 K6 I'd be interested in purchasing.

Let me know,

Thanks,

Charlie

[Stev-o]

I'll have parts for you from the third ugliest seat as soon as I can get it off! [no key]

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

Thanks!!!!  Just pm me and I'll send my address and what ever you want for the Seat Hinges and Latch.
(Parts that mount on the seat bottom.)  DOn't need to worry about the key because the lock is not being changed. 

I really appreciate it!!!!

Charlie
PS:  Been watching your post on that old gal.  Hope you decide to bring her back to life!!!!!

[Stev-o]

Stev-o,

Thanks!!!!  Just pm me and I'll send my address and what ever you want for the Seat Hinges and Latch.
(Parts that mount on the seat bottom.)  DOn't need to worry about the key because the lock is not being changed. 

I really appreciate it!!!!

Charlie
PS:  Been watching your post on that old gal.  Hope you decide to bring her back to life!!!!!

Oh, she will!  Give me a month.....

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

I don't know how you do it that quickly.
I guess I will never be a professional. 

And I just get kind of anal about certain things and getting them just so.

Can't wait to see her all spiffed up!

Charlie
PS:  And A BIG Thank You!!!!

[HondaMan]

Charlie,
If you have a polishing wheel on your bench grinder, take a larger sized prescription pill bottle.  Then, take the cardboard from a toilet paper roll and put that inside the bottle with about a millimeter or two sticking out.  At that point, you should be able to screw your tappet cover onto the pill bottle top (the cardboard just kind of takes up any slack between the pill bottle and the tappet threads).

It lets you hold onto the pill bottle and polish the tappet covers without burning your fingers.  Rafi (edwardmorris) taught me that trick and it worked like a charm on the tappet covers for Stella.

Ron

Dang both you and Rafi!
I was avoiding polishing my tappet covers because of burned fingers. Now I have no further excuse...

Charlie: would you like me to post a pic of the K6 I just finished, here? It's even got a Vetter!

[oldhatt45]

Hondaman,

WHY HELL YES!!!!!!!!
(And not meaning to sound pushy, maybe a quick rundown on what you did to her?)

As far as the polishing goes, it's an anal thing.  LOL  And only for those that have more time than money.  LOL   

Charlie

[edwardmorris]

....................
Dang both you and Rafi!
..........

LOL Charlie, us compulsives seem to keep making extra work for others 

Here's a ref just in case you need it