Over the last few days, I've managed to get a few things done.
I got the Headlight relays done and installed and Tested and life is good with those.
Adjusted the Clutch and it now has the correct (according to the Manual) freeplay of about 3/4" travel of the clutch lever.
Can't find my grease gun, so I haven't done the swingarm. I will find that darn thing if it kills me.
Rechecked the cam chain adjustment. OK
Rechecked the Valve tappets. OK.
Put in the new correct AGM battery sYTX14AHL-BS (terminals on correct sides as opposed to the ySTX14AH-BS). Battery Stuff was excellent and old one on it's way back to them.
Today I put in the new Points Plate with new Points and condenser. The original screws for the Breaker Plate were messed up, so I used 3 5X12mm 0.8 pitch hex head bolts. They worked out nicely. Put some anti-seize on them jut to make sure all is OK.
Hooked up the Vacuum Gauges to the Carbs (086a's) closed the choke (all the way up), and hit the starter. OK, it fired right up.
Idle a little high so turned the main Idle screw down a bit and gradually reduced the choke over about 30 seconds. Idling at about 1100-1200 rpm. Fairly steady.
Steadied out the flutter in the vacuum gauges. Readings were from a low of about 12" of mercury to about 17" of mercury at 1100-1200 rpm.
Then started the fan. Next I checked the temp of the exhaust at the first bend in the header pipes. 2 & 3 were about 150 F. #1 was only about 120 F, #4 was about 140 F.
Checked the timing with my Borg Warner Timing light. 1/4 was about 3-5 degrees retarded (before the "F" mark) at idle. When I opened the throttle advance went to the Full advance mark, so ok there. Did the same routine with 2/3 and got the same result. Did not appear to be any flutter at all. Also, I checked the runout on the breaker shaft and it was OK (0.000).
Went to try and adjust the air screws on each carb. (Started at 1 full turn out.) Went as far as 2 full turns out on carb #4 and then #1 and no difference in vacuum. (Idling at 1100 - 1200 rpm)
Would think there is a problem.
I put on Brand new Insulators (carb to head) and tightened the heck out of the clamps. Also put new Airbox to Carb rubber stacks on. Both came in Honda bags and were ordered as Honda parts from a reliable parts dealer. Stock Airbox with a K&N filter.
When I cleaned the carbs, I had done 6 to 8 cycles of (480 seconds) using heat and a 50/50 mix of Simple Green HD and water. When done with Ultrasonic, Carbs were rinsed out with water then used the air compressor to make sure all passages were clear and dry. Did the same with all the jets as well. I did not touch the slide adjustment or the clips. They still have the original factory Yellow paint on them and all parts were separated so there was no mixing up of parts from one carb to another.
Also, when I twist the throttle Open, the engine responds with a nice smooth snap with no hesitation and returns to idle just as nicely. With the throttle open, it seems very smooth with no popping. Will need to recheck tomorrow. But I still have a lumpy idle and an occasional pop at idle. Also, after running for maybe 10 minutes, the exhaust temps (measured with my el-cheapo HF infrared heat gun) were showing about 180 on 2 & 3, 150 on #1 and about 165-170 on #4.
Wondering if its ignition related? like wires and plug caps??? Tomorrow I plan on measuring the resistance of the plug caps. Was looking at the fiche for new plug caps and all I see are the Noise Suppression type.
Anyone with any ideas?
?
Charlie