Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 57620 times)

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #150 on:** May 17, 2015, 06:11:31 pm »

Stev-o,

Good question.
I've thought about it but I haven't researched any local Powdercoatering Places and I'm getting itchy to get the old gal up and running.
But, thanks for making me think about it again.

My new 7610-1296 Ikon shocks (Black Bodies, Chrome Springs and Chrome Covers) are supposed to be here tomorrow so I'm hoping to have the rear end done by the end of the week and then get started on then engine, which I hope won't take too long to get squared away and running. I have the 341's off and have also been cleaning them up a little at a time which will take the most clean up time.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #151 on:** May 18, 2015, 02:16:39 pm »

So today, as promised by Dave Gardner, my new Ikon Shocks arrived.
Some interesting stuff.
The Ikon Shocks 7610 series have 2 easily accomplished adjustments.
The obvious one is the Spring Pre-Load at the bottom of the shock.
The other is a rebound adjustment. If you look at the picture showing the top of the shock, there is a Dial with numbers 1 to 4 on it.
Talking to Dave, he said they are set at 1 by the factory as a normal shipping condition.
He also said that for my weight (165 lbs), that the 1 setting will give the most "plush" ride. The 2 setting is a little firmer for a bit more spirited riding but not for hitting the twisty's hard. The 3 and 4 positions are for pushing the bike around the twisty's and are for more cornering performance. He also cautioned that you should NOT set the adjustment in between numbers.

Apparently there are holes at the bottom of the shock rod that line up with holes in the lower body that control the rebound damping and if you set the adjustment between numbers, the holes are blocked off and then you have problems.

So, anyone buying Ikons, be aware of that.

He suggested that I leave the Pre-Load adjustment alone, given my weight and maybe set the Rebound adjustment at 2, given what I told him about my riding style.

Another interesting point is the difference between the OLD Koni (76F-1296) and the Ikon (7610-1296) shocks.
The Ikon's are fatter by 3/8 inches. Also the springs on the Ikons use thicker wire 7.17mm than the OLD Koni's (6.89mm).

Also, I got the swingarm pretty much cleaned up today so, I may have a shot at getting the rear end done this week.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #152 on:** May 18, 2015, 02:17:56 pm »

Here are the other pictures of the Ikon Shocks.

Charlie

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #153 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:26:46 pm »

Interesting. Mine did not come with the dust caps, but I like them without the caps!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #154 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:56:40 pm »

CB750 Café Racer Fan,

It really took me a while to decide on getting the Dust Caps.
I had the old Koni's without the caps and I liked them.
I kept seeing all the Restored Bikes with the caps on the shocks and kind of wanted to see how they looked since it was more of an "original" look. We'll see how long the caps stay on. LOL

Charlie

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #155 on:** May 18, 2015, 09:41:06 pm »

Quote from: oldhatt45 on May 18, 2015, 04:56:40 pm

CB750 Café Racer Fan,

It really took me a while to decide on getting the Dust Caps.
I had the old Koni's without the caps and I liked them.
I kept seeing all the Restored Bikes with the caps on the shocks and kind of wanted to see how they looked since it was more of an "original" look. We'll see how long the caps stay on. LOL

Charlie

I think they look great on resto bikes. But that's the awesome thing about these projects. They leave so much room for us to put our individual stamp on them!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #156 on:** May 25, 2015, 06:22:28 pm »

Been working on getting everything cleaned up on the rear end and I'm getting stuff off the frame so I can paint up the rear end of the frame. So, here are a few pictures of some of the electrical parts. Sorry, not much else to report.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #157 on:** May 25, 2015, 06:30:06 pm »

Couple more pictures of the electrics.
In other threads, I've read that the Regulator is adjustable.
If anyone can tell me, is the adjustment inside the can?
Appreciate any insight. Just in case I need to do an adjustment.

Pulled the Oil Tank off as well. Looked inside and there doesn't appear to be any sludge in the bottom.
Any recommended cleaner to flush it out??

Also, in the thread on Hoses, I found that the 3.5mm and 5.5mm fuel lines are the same as those on the Honda CR-V.
Here is a link for them.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bulk~tube~35x1m~95001-35001-60M.html
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bulk~hose~95001-55003-60M.html

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #158 on:** May 25, 2015, 08:14:58 pm »

IIRC Mark's book has a section on adjusting the regulator with pix. OCICBW, haven't looked at the electrical section in a while.

hsas.69 · « **Reply #159 on:** May 26, 2015, 12:12:54 am »

Yes there is a set of points and a gap on the relay that get adjusted. They are both under the cover of the regulator. Just take it off the bike and two small screws hold the cover on.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #160 on:** May 26, 2015, 04:41:27 am »

Thanks Guys. Forgot to look at "The Book". Duh

Thanks Again,

Charlie

HondaMan · « **Reply #161 on:** May 26, 2015, 07:37:41 pm »

Quote from: oldhatt45 on May 25, 2015, 06:22:28 pm

Been working on getting everything cleaned up on the rear end and I'm getting stuff off the frame so I can paint up the rear end of the frame. So, here are a few pictures of some of the electrical parts. Sorry, not much else to report.

Charlie

Charlie: Follow that black-wrapped cable on the fuseblock: back in there somewhere is the connector for it. Unplug that gizmo and look inside to see if it's got the BLADES or the RECEPTACLES in there. The K5/K6 harnesses sometimes got partly F0 or CX500 harness portions, so their connector genders are not consistent.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #162 on:** June 30, 2015, 12:12:30 pm »

Been a while, but I really have been working on the K6.

Anyhow, Been working on cleaning up the rear end parts and getting ready to do a little painting on the frame.
Have done a rattle can paint job on the swingarm. I think it turned out pretty reasonable.

Also have a few parts out for rechroming that I hope to have back soon (another week or 2).

Today I brought the Carb rack into the air conditioning to see what kind of shape they are in.
Here are a couple of pictures.

More in next post.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #163 on:** June 30, 2015, 12:19:38 pm »

Here are a few pictures after removing the Bowl off of Carb #4.

I don't have any notes about whether I drained the carbs before the 26+ year nap, but I was wondering what you guys thought about the condition of the carbs based on what the pictures show.

Would you do a complete teardown? Or perhaps just put them in the ultrasonic and not take them apart right now?
I do know I'd like to clean up the outside and I do need to clean up the bracket and linkage, so I will definitely take them off the rack.

Also, I do have a complete OEM gasket set with bowl gaskets, etc. that I would replace.

Looking for some opinions.

Thanks,

Charlie

HondaMan · « **Reply #164 on:** July 02, 2015, 06:43:47 pm »

Seeing those, I'd say to simply try this: if you have a "vat" big enough (like a 5 gallon bucket?), fill it with gas and drop the whole rack in, with the float bowls removed. Leave it for an hour or so, then take it out and wash it down with a hose. Check the float heights and see if the float valves all work freely, and put them back on.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #165 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:17:51 pm »

It's been almost a month since my last post, but I've been busy working on the old gal.

Over this time I've cleaned up all the rear end hardware, removed the Air Box and Carbs. Then I painted the frame using the Rustoleum Professional Primer and Rustoleum Gloss Black. Looks pretty close to the original frame color. Pleased with the finish until I can get it Powdercoated in the next year or 2. LOL

The swingarm was in pretty good shape and the grease in the swingarm was still grease.
So it got cleaned up. When I went to take the swingarm out, I got stuck on a rookie thing. Had to refer back to Hondaman's book. What stuck me was that you have to loosen the rear engine mount bolts before the swingarm will loosen up and come out. Almost cost me a couple of end caps off the swingarm. <G> Thanks again Mark!!!!

Also cleaned up a bunch of the bullet connectors. Most all from the electric center to the tail end. So that's done.

Then a few days ago, I had everything ready to put back together.
So, the reassembly started. Another thing that took me a bit to figure out was the reinstall of the rear brake actuator. I didn't remember when I took it off that the actuator and the lever spring had to go on before the swingarm went into position. Was scratching my head a bit before it dawned on me why the rear brake wasn't locking up. LOL Once that mystery was solved, everything went back together nicely.

So, here are a few pictures of what she's looking like tonight.

More pictures to follow

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #166 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:20:08 pm »

More pictures.

I was a bit concerned about the Diameter of the new IKON shocks, but there is plenty of clearance.

So now she is a roller, kind of. LOL

Hopefully I can finish truing the rear wheel tomorrow then start on the Oil pump.

Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #167 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:25:01 pm »

Looking very nice Charlie.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #168 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:26:05 pm »

Thanks Stev-o.

It's not a Rafi, but it's coming along nicely.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #169 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:39:02 pm »

I also posted a thread in the General discussion area regarding the carbs on my K6.

Titled "What would you Do?"
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,149277.msg1703901.html#msg1703901

I plan on doing a couple of things before I start on them like the Oil Pump and the Clutch.
So will keep you guys updated a little more frequently since there hopefully won't be too much cleaning of bits and pieces to do.
(I know, famous last words. <G> )

Charlie

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #170 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:55:25 pm »

Charlie,
She looks awesome. VERY nice indeed.

Ron

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #171 on:** July 28, 2015, 06:59:34 pm »

Thanks Ron.
It's not perfect, but then neither am I. LOL

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #172 on:** July 30, 2015, 03:04:15 pm »

Given that the weather was really hot and HUMID today, I decided to stay in the Air Conditioning as much as possible, so I took the Carbs down to the basement and gave them an external scrub with the ZEP 505 cleaner as recommended in my What Would You Do thread.
Used a stiff tooth brush, a small nylon brush and a small brass brush to get the most gunk off that I could.

Here are a few pictures of the dirty vs the First scrub of the outside of the Carbs.

Pictures shown Before First, After Second.

I think they cleaned up quite a bit.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #173 on:** July 30, 2015, 03:07:31 pm »

Another view.

They look better in person then in the picture (the after shots.

)

Will probably give them another external scrub tomorrow.
After the scrub, I used the old gun cleaning trick of turning the water up as hot as it would go and rinsing off the carbs.
The Hot water rinses then evaporates almost instantly. Would normally give a gun a light coat of oil at this point, but.

Charlie

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #174 on:** July 30, 2015, 07:26:40 pm »

Hey Charlie,
If you remove those covers, the fuel flow will increase greatly!

Ron

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Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 57620 times)