Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right

[oldhatt45]

Ron,

Just took that picture cause I think madmtnmotors commented on it.  LOL

I'm working as fast as I can with all the other stuff going on.
Figure I can get the clutch buttoned up today. 

Then I can finish up the carbs and clean up the Valve cover and finish the gas tank and petcock.
And hopefully then do the 3000 mile tuneup and see what we've got. 

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

I got the Clutch back together today and buttoned up.

I Used the existing plates since they were good with a minimum measurement of 0.1390" on only 1 plate and the average of thickness for the ret of the measurements was 0.1405".

Put new seals in the clutch cover for the kickstart lever and in the center for the clutch actuating shaft.  The old ones popped right out with a screw driver.  Didn't have to use any undue coercion on either one.  Put some oil on both went I put the new ones in and just had to press them in with my thumbs.  Good thing I'm all thumbs, for once in my life.      And I even managed to get them in the right direction as they both have lips and the springs inside the open ends.

Had to decide on the Clutch Springs to use.

                            Spring 1                        Spring 2                         Spring 3                       Spring 4
Old Springs           1.1870"/ 30.16mm        1.1885"/ 30.18mm          1.1885"/ 30.18mm        1.178"/ 29.92mm
These were 305 Dream Springs based on my records

New Standard       1.227"/ 31.17mm           1.2335"/ 31.33mm          1.2340"/ 31.34mm       1.2330"/ 31.32mm
750 Springs  (P/N 22401-323-003)

New 305 Dream    1.3665"/ 34.70mm         1.3625"/ 34.61mm           1.3665"/ 34.70mm       1.3625"/ 34.61mm
Springs    (P/N 22401-425-000)

Since I liked the way the 305 Dream Springs worked and felt before the old gal took her nap, I decided to put in the New 305 Dream Springs.
If I don't like the way they work and feel, I can always change them out for the stock 750 springs.

Put some Hondabond 4 on both sides of the new gasket and put the cover on.

So, tomorrow I plan on working on the carbs and getting them ready to go back on with new boots and stacks to the airbox.

Charlie

[Restoration Fan]

Charlie,
You're getting so close, man.  Quit being a tease and get this baby fired up! 

[oldhatt45]

Ron,

Going to work on the Carbs today and get them cleaned up.  Hopefully will finish them today or maybe tomorrow.
Also need to clean the petcock and check on the Gas Tank.

Day before yesterday, I put the Oil Tank back in place and connected it up. 
Yesterday, I found a bag with 1 washer in it.  Have to measure it but it looks to be either a 12 or 14 mm OD. 
The bag was labeled Oil Tank Washer.
I checked to make sure I had the washer on the Drain Plug and sure enough it was there.
I pulled the Outside Oil Line and inside the fitting there was what looks like a washer inside the fitting.  Maybe a restrictor?
Before I stand on my head to pull the Inside Oil Line, does anyone know if there is supposed to be a washer in that line???
Where else would a washer be?  I looked at the fiche and didn't see any washers that I don't have in their places.
I'm kind of stumped by this.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Charlie

[edwardmorris]

My early K did need both and I too don't recall seeing them on the fiche. They're crush washers of sorts that help prevent small weep at the hose ends IINM

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1686865.html#msg1686865

[Restoration Fan]

There was a washer in both lines for Stella, too.  That's a 78.

[oldhatt45]

Ed & Ron,

Thanks Guys.  Guess I will pull the rear Oil line off and make sure that this washer has a home. 

Charlie

Who has been working on his carbs today.  LOL

[madmtnmotors]

Got a picture of the washer? Did you replace one with a new one?

[oldhatt45]

madmtnmotors,

Here are 2 pictures of the washer.
Outside diameter is 20.12mm
Inside diameter is 12.25mm

Thanks,

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

I think I found my answer, as much as I don't like it.  LOL

I was looking through a thread just posted in the general forum.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151248.msg0.html#new
And what to my wondering eyes should appear, but a washer in the Inside Line fitting to the Oil Tank.  Ugh.
Oh well, better I found it now than at another less opportune time.

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

Today, I finished getting the Gas Tank Cleaned up and also getting the Petcock pretty much cleaned up as well.
Had to order a new Strainer kit for the petcock, cause the Baggy type screen didn't inspire confidence and the washers inside it were kind of chewed up. 

Here is a picture of the cleaned up petcock.

More to follow after dinner. 

Charlie

[madmtnmotors]

I think I found my answer, as much as I don't like it.  LOL

I was looking through a thread just posted in the general forum.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151248.msg0.html#new
And what to my wondering eyes should appear, but a washer in the Inside Line fitting to the Oil Tank.  Ugh.
Oh well, better I found it now than at another less opportune time.

Charlie

I've found the inner oil line (at the tank) is easier to get at by removing the rear wheel, and probably the fender, along with the inner fender.

[oldhatt45]

madmtnmotors,

I agree, but I've never been known to do things the easy way.  LOL

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

So after a good meal, here we go.

After I got done with the Gas Tank, flushing the vinegar and applying a coat of Marvel Mystery Oil, and then cleaning up the Petcock, I went back to work on the Carbs.

Took all the Jets Out (but left the Needle seat alone), took the float and float valve out and then removed the slide with the Needle attached. 
Proceeded to give the number 1 carb body the Ultrasonic using Simple Green HD treatment.  Ran it through 2 cycles (6 minutes each) and it looks pretty good, but not like an edwardmorris job.  Also did the bath treatment to the slide as well in a separate zip-loc bag.   After the 2 cycles I took the carb out to the garage and hit it with the air compressor.  Got air through every passage and orifice.  Also watched the Needle Seat pop about half way out of its chamber into the carb throat.  It never came more than half way out and I'm wondering if this is normal?

Also, On the side of the Carb, there is what looks like a Black Plastic screw, that can only turn about 7/8 of a turn.  It's on the right side of the first picture.  Wondering what that screw is for?
When I was blowing air through one of the orifices, air came out under this screw, kind of bubbling type air.

Anyhow, hoping someone can tell me what this screw Is/does.  The carbs are 086A types.

Also, for future reference (when I get all the carbs cleaned and ready), how do you set the needle clips???  When I look into the top of the slide, there are 2 screws in there holding a bracket that seems to obstruct everything below them.  Are those 2 screws supposed to come out?  Not sure if I want to try doing something stupid before asking. 

Here are a few pictures of the carb I worked on.

Charlie

[madmtnmotors]

I agree, but I've never been known to do things the easy way.  LOL

I usually figure out an easier way after I'm done! 

I was going to suggest taking the mounting bolts out of the oil tank and tip the tank out... then I remembered that I tried that too and it didn't work so well... 

[harisuluv]

Yes the two screws will get you access to the needle and clip.  Use a JIS screwdriver or risk stripping the screws and then good luck trying to get vice grips on that head in that tight of a spot.

The black screw is actually the air/mixture screw.  The black part is just a cap which you can take off.  Underneath is the metal screw which controls the mixture.  The black cap is because of EPA requirements at the time and was an attempt to limit you adjusting them.  I would leave them off til your done and have tuned it or rode it a bit and then put them back on if you want.  Having them on only limits your range of adjustment.

[oldhatt45]

harisuluv,

THANK YOU!!!!!!

I appreciate the answer and information!!!!!!!

One other question.  Do you have to remove the adjustment nuts at the Top of the Slide Rod to access the 2 screws to get to the Needle?

Thanks,

Charlie

[harisuluv]

Your welcome.  Yes, the top cap piece will get in the way otherwise. 

[HondaMan]

If you're fortunate enough to have a set of JIS screwdrivers (like the ones Gordon sells!), the small one fits those screws nicely without having to remove the top of the carb from the slide rod.

Boy, do I like his screwdrivers!

[edwardmorris]

If you're fortunate enough to have a set of JIS screwdrivers (like the ones Gordon sells!), the small one fits those screws nicely without having to remove the top of the carb from the slide rod.

Boy, do I like his screwdrivers!

+2 on the JIS drivers, I love mine too!

When I tore down my first set of carbs, I mentioned to Gordon that the #1 driver in his kit didn't have a stem long enough where I could hold it vertically (parallel to the slide rod). Now this was me just bcitching despite the fact that the one from his kit already worked wonders in getting those pesky little buggers out flawlessly. Gordon sent me a special order extra long stem #1 in like a day or two, and I felt terrible GREAT GREAT GUY, equally GREAT stuff.

Now, I have me a super nice set of long stem fine tuning flat heads for the carbs too along with my JIS kit and the big boy JIS impact driver. No rotten screw is safe from it

[oldhatt45]

THANKS GUYS!!!!!

I do have a set of Gordon's Magic JIS Screwdrivers and I can't imagine what I'd do without them!!!!

I'll have to check on the length of the #1.  I may have to get the longer shaft driver like Edward did.

Thanks also for the information on getting to the Needles!!!!!

I read up on  the carbs and what to do, but all the books and manuals don't show the 086A carbs.
I thought I was missing parts in the slide like the spring, etc. and wondering where the Air Screw got to and started wondering if somehow my carbs got messed up without me knowing about it.

It truly does take a village!!!!  And I'm really grateful that we have this forum and all the Great Guys that pitch in and help!!!!!

Charlie
Who will be working on carbs today.

[oldhatt45]

Yesterday when I was working on cleaning up the outside of the petcock, I went and checked the fiche on it.  Apparently Honda didn't give any specs on the O-Rings inside the actual body.  Does anyone know sizes, etc. for those O-Rings?  The petcock works, but I'd feel better if I had new O-Rings in there.

Thanks,

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

Got Carb #1 Done today. 
I know, I'm slow. 

Ran it through 3 more cycles (6 minutes each) in the Ultrasonic using the Simple Green HD as the cleaning fluid.
Just doesn't seem to come as clean as edwardmorris carbs.  Don't understand what I did different from what he described.

Got the Bowl and Top Cap nice and shiny. 

All the jets for the carb are nice and clean as well.  Thank You harisuluv!!!!  The air screw would still be an unknown if it weren't for you!!!!
Put a drop or 2 of Singer Sewing Machine Oil on the Slide and it just drops in and slides very smoothly (Thanks Rafi!!!!)

I didn't replace the bowl gasket right now for 2 reasons.  First is it is pretty well glued in.  Second is I figured the bowls will be on and off a few more times so why wear out a new gasket.  Will put them in after getting it running or if I have any leaking while getting her ready.

Before removing the air screw, I turned it in and found it to be set at 1 full turn out, so that's where it is now that I put it back in.

After the Simple Green bath I used the compressor and blew out all the passages and had a nice strong air flow from every passage.
SO I'm happy with that.

Tomorrow I hope to get the rest of the Carbs done.  First one is always a learning experience for me.  LOL   

So here are the pictures.

Charlie

[edwardmorris]

No magic mix  , I just did 50-50 Water + Simple Green HD Pro and about 5-6 cycles per carb complete. Followed by a fine machinist's wire through them tricky passages, then rinse with warm water, then finally blew out every nook and cranny with compressed air using a super fine nozzle.

Mineral based oil is best to use as assembly lube as it won't dry out and leave a sticky residue (like them fragrant WD40 style lubes). I love how smooth things operate now even after many months since assembly.

[mrbreeze]

I wasn't in a race when I did my carbs either Charlie. I put each one in it's own Folgers plastic coffee can. Took 2 per day to work and put 1 at a time in an agitator full of carb cleaner (the strong stuff). At lunch I cleaned it and blew it out with compressed air. Then I did the same routine with the other one. Took both carbs home and reassembled. Repeat the whole process the next day. This didn't cut into my work time and gave me a good and organized rebuild of my carbs. Good call on the sewing machine oil. I don't remember what I used on the first go round to lube the slides but I had to do a redo because they were sticking so bad. If you are using quality kits the bowl gaskets will be fine to R&R many times. I heard Keyster kits were bad. I used K&L's from Dennis Kirks. Used everything but the needles and needle jets. Also went with larger than the stock main jets that came with the kit.