Author Topic: Where's my 5th gear? SOLVED!!! (Read 21392 times)

flybox1 · « **Reply #150 on:** March 13, 2015, 05:19:33 PM »

If you don't mind...I'll measure this one right now.
.707"w
.990"L - insertable length not including ball.

Corrected.

Bailgang · « **Reply #151 on:** March 13, 2015, 05:36:26 PM »

I've got the .707" but where you getting the .099" from?

scottly · « **Reply #152 on:** March 13, 2015, 05:37:33 PM »

I'll pull it out tomorrow. In the mean time, you might want to check to see if the F's used a different part number, if you haven't already.

Bailgang · « **Reply #153 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:00:25 PM »

I've got 2 of them in my hands right now just tell me what measurement you need. At the moment I'm not sure where you're getting the .099" from.

scottly · « **Reply #154 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:08:13 PM »

Scott, do you see any witness marks where the switch contacted the drum? If so, how deep into the drum did it run?

Bailgang · « **Reply #155 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:21:56 PM »

Quote from: scottly on March 13, 2015, 06:08:13 PM

Scott, do you see any witness marks where the switch contacted the drum? If so, how deep into the drum did it run?

If you're talking about the witness marks on the side of the switch where it contacted the drum I'm coming up with approximately .128" on both I have here.

scottly · « **Reply #156 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:34:09 PM »

Thanks; that's exactly what I meant. What is the distance from the top of the part that engages the drum to where the switch seats in the case? .990"?

Bailgang · « **Reply #157 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:44:11 PM »

I see Flybox has corrected the .099" to .990", that makes sense but it's the .707" diia that worries me now because yes that's the dia of the part of the switch that goes into the case and the o-ring seals up to but the end where the witness marks are is .590" dia

flybox1 · « **Reply #158 on:** March 13, 2015, 06:46:59 PM »

Quote from: scottly on March 13, 2015, 06:34:09 PM

Thanks; that's exactly what I meant. What is the distance from the top of the part that engages the drum to where the switch seats in the case? .990"?

Yes...I've measured .990" length, and the smaller tip section is .590"

Bailgang · « **Reply #159 on:** March 13, 2015, 07:04:10 PM »

Quote from: flybox1 on March 13, 2015, 06:46:59 PM

Quote from: scottly on March 13, 2015, 06:34:09 PM
Thanks; that's exactly what I meant. What is the distance from the top of the part that engages the drum to where the switch seats in the case? .990"?
Yes...I've measured .990" length, and the smaller tip section is .590"

OK it's making sense now. Just curious though, do you know what size o-ring you're using on that switch? It should be an 18x3mm. Those switches can be real fussy on the size of o-ring you use.

flybox1 · « **Reply #160 on:** March 13, 2015, 07:16:59 PM »

Yes, I'm using a Honda 18x3mm o-ring....
A tight fit. Oring needs to be inserted first into the case, then the switch is pressed in.

scottly · « **Reply #161 on:** March 13, 2015, 07:20:28 PM »

.128" is a fair amount of engagement; if the switch was that far far being fully seated into the case it would be noticeable. Scott, are the switches you are looking at from a late F?

Bailgang · « **Reply #162 on:** March 13, 2015, 08:16:04 PM »

Quote from: scottly on March 13, 2015, 07:20:28 PM

.128" is a fair amount of engagement; if the switch was that far far being fully seated into the case it would be noticeable. Scott, are the switches you are looking at from a late F?

Right now I'm wishing I stayed out of this because I fear I'm just confusing matters. The .990" is the length from the point where it sets flush to the end not including the ball. The .128" is how much of that .990 that actually protrudes into the drum at least that's how long the witness marks are so if I'm understanding your question right then there is .862" from where it sets flush with the case to the top of the witness marks. Sorry for the fuzzy pic but the black marker line my pen is pointing to represents the depth/length of the witness marks. Am I making any sense? If not I'm just going to shut up and go to bed.

flybox1 · « **Reply #163 on:** March 13, 2015, 08:30:51 PM »

Scott. Your measurements are correct. I get the same on my end.

scottly · « **Reply #164 on:** March 13, 2015, 08:36:05 PM »

Quote from: Bailgang on March 13, 2015, 08:16:04 PM

Right now I'm wishing I stayed out of this because I fear I'm just confusing matters.

You aren't confusing matters at all. Thanks for your input into this on-going mystery!

Bailgang · « **Reply #165 on:** March 13, 2015, 08:45:52 PM »

I'm going to shut up and go to bed anyhow, I've got a long day tomorrow.

scottly · « **Reply #166 on:** March 14, 2015, 04:36:45 PM »

I got the same measurements as you guys. The switch must be pulled out about .125" from fully seated before the drum is allowed to move. I also measured from the case seating surface to the OD of the drum (with the drum slid to the outside) and got .858", which jives with Scott's .862" measurement of the witness marks.

scottly · « **Reply #167 on:** March 14, 2015, 05:23:15 PM »

I suspect your improvised clamp isn't up to the job. The stock part is .110" thick.

flybox1 · « **Reply #168 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:46:01 PM »

Quote from: scottly on March 14, 2015, 05:23:15 PM

I suspect your improvised clamp isn't up to the job. The stock part is .110" thick.

The clip is good. It holds it firmly. Once tightened, the switch won't even spin.

Bailgang · « **Reply #169 on:** March 15, 2015, 04:10:35 AM »

Well it's do or die for me today, depending how quickly I get motivated I should have mine running by lunch time or early afternoon and with temps expected to be in the mid 60's I'll have plenty of time for a good ride as well. All I can say is that if my latest efforts haven't taken care of my 4th gear issues then I'll be saving up and eventually give cycleX a call for an under cut trans.

HondaMan · « **Reply #170 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:34:39 PM »

Here's something to keep in the back of your mind(s) when R&R the Neutral switch: up until the F1, the O-ring was [formerly] listed as 3.2x18mm, and became 3x18mm after that. Lately, many parts fiche show only the 3x18.

Here's the skinny I know from experience: if the 3.2 is used and the switch is not fully seated because it is hard to do...the shift drum may develop some lateral movement and/or the Neutral light will not go out when shifted into gear. Accompanying the latter, the O-ring starts to leak after a short time.

My assembly hint: clean the daylights from the Neutral Switch body, especially around the O-ring seat area, and lube it up like a bearing before trying to pop it back in.

And, I have made clamps from cutoff washers, flat pieces of steel, and flattened lock washers, and all worked after the PO lost his and brought me his engine(s) to save.

flybox1 · « **Reply #171 on:** May 09, 2015, 07:27:18 PM »

Charging issues fixed, I headed out. Perfect day for riding. 78F and humid.
Riding around, I still could not get 5th to engage, and just figured I'd just cruise the side streets, but then I found a long downhill and decided, with no clutch engagement, id try it....I shifted, and got 5th. I was doing a happy dance in my seat.
So....
With clutch, no 5th engagement.
Without clutch....it drops in.

So....any hint as to what is going on?

scottly · « **Reply #172 on:** May 09, 2015, 07:39:58 PM »

It only goes into 5th when coasting down-hill? What happens if you roll the throttle on after shifting into 5th?

flybox1 · « **Reply #173 on:** May 09, 2015, 07:45:18 PM »

I can get 5th anytime, if I'm not using my clutch.....when I roll on the throttle....the bike goes like it should!!!

scottly · « **Reply #174 on:** May 09, 2015, 08:41:48 PM »

If you apply slight pressure to the clutch lever while rolling on the throttle in 5th, does it pop out of gear?

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Author Topic: Where's my 5th gear? SOLVED!!! (Read 21392 times)