Author Topic: Seeley SH7-519 (Read 5126 times)

Humble Pie · « **Reply #25 on:** June 26, 2014, 08:43:06 AM »

Quote from: scottly on June 25, 2014, 05:15:42 PM

Here is a pic of the aluminum foot rest plates Tim mentioned:

Those look similar to Triumph pass. peg mounts

scottly · « **Reply #26 on:** June 26, 2014, 10:38:50 AM »

Look at the bottom of the frame tube on the left side; the kick-stand mount was attached to a "doubler" to reinforce the tube. The Seeley mount was rather fragile; mine was halfway ripped off the frame when I got it, so I cut what was left off and made a mount that attached with the lower rear motor mount bolt.

Humble Pie · « **Reply #27 on:** June 26, 2014, 10:41:20 AM »

Quote from: scottly on June 26, 2014, 10:38:50 AM

Look at the bottom of the frame tube on the left side; the kick-stand mount was attached to a "doubler" to reinforce the tube. The Seeley mount was rather fragile; mine was halfway ripped off the frame when I got it, so I cut what was left off and made a mount that attached with the lower rear motor mount bolt.

Yep just looked , broken off, some of it still there ,, will hand file it clean and just use the centre stand

scottly · « **Reply #28 on:** June 26, 2014, 10:48:38 AM »

Here's a pic that show my fabbed kick-stand mount:

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #29 on:** June 26, 2014, 05:14:59 PM »

What state are you in HP? Rules vary pretty substantially state to state about getting titles to a bike purchased without one.

Your bike is doubly unusual since it is an aftermarket frame. My guess is that originally it used the title from the bike that donated the engine.

Since it's a kit of sorts you may actually find it easier to title then a regular bike

Swoop · « **Reply #30 on:** June 27, 2014, 04:39:26 AM »

Very nice find. This should keep you busy for awhile...but it will be worth it.
Scottly...did you fab the rearset brackets for your Seeley...and if so, would you have any drawings that you could share?

Thanks
Steve

Humble Pie · « **Reply #31 on:** June 27, 2014, 11:31:36 AM »

Motors no good but prehistoric multispark might still be

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #32 on:** June 27, 2014, 11:52:47 AM »

That looks similar, although not quite identical to the one I put on my GL.

scottly · « **Reply #33 on:** June 27, 2014, 06:00:18 PM »

Hey Steve, sorry, but I didn't make any drawings other than on the plates with layout dye and a scribe.

Pie, I think the "6" on the Gerex is actually a stylized "G". The unit I posted a picture of is a series II.

Humble Pie · « **Reply #34 on:** June 27, 2014, 10:06:37 PM »

Quote from: scottly on June 27, 2014, 06:00:18 PM

Pie, I think the "6" on the Gerex is actually a stylized "G". The unit I posted a picture of is a series II.

Yes , I do believe you are correct

Humble Pie · « **Reply #35 on:** June 28, 2014, 05:46:10 AM »

So guessing the best course here is to completely file this piece off ( had tough weld it up and keep it there for added strength but , open wound and no real way to clean anything that may be in the gaps ),,19 on swingarm so guess that goes with 519. I cannot believe how light this thing is, and I love this huge clunky tank, though I wonder what 5 .5 gal. of fuel feels like when riding

Tim2005 · « **Reply #36 on:** June 28, 2014, 07:13:52 AM »

I'd really avoid welding it up- these frames are bronze welded (brazed) so any heat could affect the joint next to it, and I recollect there are complexities with welding this type of tubing (Reynolds 531) too, which mean that you can't use most types of welding without making it liable to cracking.

Yeah, 19 is from the chassis number (the 5 is usually on there somewhere) and if you've got the original engine plates you'll find it stamped on the back of them too. Yes, incredibly light, feels more like a 400 to ride, and yes best to not brim the tank if you've a twisty road to ride and you don't need the near 200 miles range.

Humble Pie · « **Reply #37 on:** June 28, 2014, 08:54:20 AM »

Quote from: Tim2005 on June 28, 2014, 07:13:52 AM

Yeah, 19 is from the chassis number (the 5 is usually on there somewhere) and if you've got the original engine plates you'll find it stamped on the back of them too. Yes, incredibly light, feels more like a 400 to ride, and yes best to not brim the tank if you've a twisty road to ride and you don't need the near 200 miles range.

Yep 519 L and R , would the tank have a number ?

Tim2005 · « **Reply #38 on:** June 28, 2014, 02:43:24 PM »

Good question but no, I've never found a number on the tanks.

754 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 29, 2014, 10:46:44 AM »

Whatvis wrong with the motor? Any speed equipment inside it ?

Humble Pie · « **Reply #40 on:** June 29, 2014, 04:25:46 PM »

locked up ,,few broken fins here and there,will be opening it up tomorrow

scottly · « **Reply #41 on:** June 29, 2014, 05:19:07 PM »

I stripped my tank to bare metal, and never found a number. It looks like your rear axle adjusters are missing? I'm also curious about what's inside the motor.

Humble Pie · « **Reply #42 on:** June 30, 2014, 05:56:26 AM »

Yes adjusters are missing but look easy enough to make, Saw Seeley swing arm on ebay for a Norton,, than had them

Humble Pie · « **Reply #43 on:** June 30, 2014, 08:54:50 AM »

Opening motor ,, chrome rocker cover ( saveable ),, R5 cam, strange chrome rocker arms ?

BPellerine · « **Reply #44 on:** June 30, 2014, 06:01:21 PM »

probably polished rockers not chrome and you will have to pull the cam and look under the washer on end of cam for id or along the shaft between the lobe area.bill

Humble Pie · « **Reply #45 on:** July 02, 2014, 06:09:52 AM »

Quote from: BPellerine on June 30, 2014, 06:01:21 PM

probably polished rockers not chrome and you will have to pull the cam and look under the washer on end of cam for id or along the shaft between the lobe area.bill

On the shaft near the sprocket is where I found 'R5', successfully got broken casting of and area cleaned up, now to bead blast it and repaint .

ekpent · « **Reply #46 on:** July 02, 2014, 06:42:16 AM »

You probably know but most all the stock 750 cams had an R number stamped on them in different denominations believed to be depending on the casting mold. When its officially out you can look for other markings and check to see if it is a hypo regrind. Be interesting to see if the pistons are stock or not.

Humble Pie · « **Reply #47 on:** July 02, 2014, 08:16:07 AM »

Lower end is stock, and spins free. Cam also has an F and V on it,,seems the only fancy bits were the ignition and polished rockers. So off to find a good solid running motor.

Super score NOS top bearings $20 for 6 sets

Humble Pie · « **Reply #48 on:** July 02, 2014, 01:30:25 PM »

Quote from: scottly on June 25, 2014, 05:03:24 PM

LOL The stock style shocks have a clevis on the bottom, while the Seeley has the clevis on the swing-arm. You need shocks with eyes on both ends.
Here's the scoop on the steering head top bearings: When I took both bearing parts to a bearing house to replace them, the guy matched up the numbers etched on them, which should have been a 2" OD outer race, with a 1" ID inner race. The outer race fit into the frame fine, but the inner race wouldn't fit the Honda stem. That's when we figured out that Seeley had opened up the ID to 1.024" (26 mm). That shouldn't be an issue, as tapered bearings are now readily available that fit the Honda stem.

What is the difference between the SA and non SA bearing ?

scottly · « **Reply #49 on:** July 02, 2014, 08:16:47 PM »

Hmm, don't know off-hand what SA means, but the 1 in 7100 refers to an ID of 1.00", so it won't fit the Honda stem.

News:

Author Topic: Seeley SH7-519 (Read 5126 times)

Swoop