Topic: Inconsistent drive chain tension as rear wheel is rotated

[jorwesflow]

1977 CB550K

I pretty regularly tighten the drive chain tension (just yesterday actually), probably every 200-300 miles. That's about how long it takes for it to loosen to start slightly slapping the swingarm during de-acceleration/downshifting. Every time I tighten it again, I struggle with getting the slack in the chain right. It's very inconsistent as the wheel is rotated. At some points while hand-rotating, there is no slack at all, then at other points, there's more slack than the specifications require. So what I end up doing is finding a happy middle ground between the too tight/too loose.

Also, just yesterday, I noticed what sounded like a clanky, maybe kind of grindy noise while letting off the clutch and accelerating out of first gear. Seemed to be coming from the crankcase area.

Not sure if these two things are related... Do these symptoms point to anything?

[dhall57]

Time for new chain and sprockets.

[Wobbly]

Chains stretch out unevenly. If you no longer can keep it within specs because of that, a new chain and sprockets are indeed required.

[MoMo]

ditto to the two previous posts

[lucky]

New chains AND new sprockets all at the same time.
BUT.... There will always b a little tiny bit of tight- loose.
It is just the nature of round things that are not perfect.

But you cant get 99% of it out.

[jorwesflow]

Time for new chain and sprockets.

ditto to the two previous posts

New chains AND new sprockets all at the same time.
BUT.... There will always b a little tiny bit of tight- loose.
It is just the nature of round things that are not perfect.

I thought this might be the case, but the rear sprocket still looks perfect—i.e. no hook-like wear in the teeth like I've observed with friends' bikes that need chain/sprocket replacements. Regardless, ordering the parts now!

[Adam_F]

Just replaced both sprockets and the chain on my 550 and I still have subtle tight spots and slight noises as well.  Hopefully your new parts take care of it for ya. 

[MCRider]

Time for new chain and sprockets.

ditto to the two previous posts

New chains AND new sprockets all at the same time.
BUT.... There will always b a little tiny bit of tight- loose.
It is just the nature of round things that are not perfect.

I thought this might be the case, but the rear sprocket still looks perfect—i.e. no hook-like wear in the teeth like I've observed with friends' bikes that need chain/sprocket replacements. Regardless, ordering the parts now!

I'm in agreement so you know your problem. In the future be very careful about lubing the chain evenly all the way around. But it happens to the best of us.

I'm in the camp that you do 2 chains per sproocket set. The reason bing the most efficient use of money. Lets say you start with all 3 new. Then in 5000 miles ready for a new chain. You put it on old sprockets and it lasts 4500 mile losing 10% to the old sprockets. 10% of a new chain still cheaper than a new set of sprockets. Even if you lose 20%, still cheaper. Probably. Not a safety issue. Some ride quality issue I suppose.

TETO

Test: Setup: On the centerstand, push up on the bottom row of chain, dead center. If the new chain on old sprockets, can be pulled away from the sprockets (at 3 Oclock on the rear sprocket) then need new chain. IF new chain on old sprockets can't be pulled away, then keep the old sprockets at lesat one more chain.

If new chain can be pulled away from old sprocket, time for sprockets.

[jorwesflow]

I'm in agreement so you know your problem. In the future be very careful about lubing the chain evenly all the way around.

What do you suggest for chain lube? I have a can of this foamy, sticky, gooey stuff. Kind of messy. And flicks around and gets on other parts of the bike for a few miles after an application.

[MCRider]

I'm in agreement so you know your problem. In the future be very careful about lubing the chain evenly all the way around.

What do you suggest for chain lube? I have a can of this foamy, sticky, gooey stuff. Kind of messy. And flicks around and gets on other parts of the bike for a few miles after an application.

I use ORing chains which need very little lube. For that I use Hondaline Chain Wax.

550s, I understand have to use non Oring chains so maintenencae is a little more persistent. Still, a squirt on both sides of the sprocket as the chain passes thru will get it where it needs to go. I think Chain Wax products are good. Honda, Maxima, BelRay, etc.

ITs sticky and doesn't fling off. But you'll need to clean it off occasionally and start over. Wipe down with WD-40 is good.

JMO

[jorwesflow]

550s, I understand have to use non Oring chains so maintenencae is a little more persistent.

non O-ring? I just bought this which says it's o-ring: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350919361766

[MCRider]

550s, I understand have to use non Oring chains so maintenencae is a little more persistent.

non O-ring? I just bought this which says it's o-ring: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350919361766

I'm not a 500/550 guy, but all I've read here says ORing chains will rub the crankcases of 500/550s, to an obscene amount. Check around.

That price for that tensile strength seems awful good.  But otherwise seems to be a reputable seller, maybe he knows something new?

[Stev-o]

550s, I understand have to use non Oring chains so maintenencae is a little more persistent.

non O-ring? I just bought this which says it's o-ring: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350919361766

I'm not a 500/550 guy, but all I've read here says ORing chains will rub the crankcases of 500/550s, to an obscene amount. Check around.

+1 oring chain is wide and can rub on the case.

[MoMo]

I've seen several 550/500 with damaged cases from o-ring chains

[jorwesflow]

+1 oring chain is wide and can rub on the case.

I've seen several 550/500 with damaged cases from o-ring chains

I just read up on several threads discussing the issue. I'll be getting a refund and going with a non o-ring for both the 550 and 750. I don't feel like messing with offset sprockets and other stuff to compensate for the extra width of an o-ring chain. I know I read that later 1970's 750's can take the wider o-ring chain, but not sure about a '71. So when in doubt, I'll just go with OE spec parts.

[krusty]

A point to remember. Lube your chain AFTER a ride, while it is still warm.

[Deltarider]

For those who master German, here you'll find someone who went the 520 O-ringroute (pics!).
http://www.cbfourclub.de/cbfourum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6174&start=15#p40226

New chains AND new sprockets all at the same time.

It's one of these wisdoms you can't go wrong to repeat and very few will challenge it.
I will. In over 100.000 kms I've always done two chains on one set of sprockets. Back then it was common practice for a bike that had no more than 44 hp at the rearwheel (if you're lucky). My dealer, who owned a 500 himself, instructed me likewise. Don't you think he would have sold me an extra set of sprockets if it had been necessary?
New chains and sprockets all at the same time may be a good advice for bikes with more power but any 350/400 or 500/550 should be able to do two standard chains on just one set of sprockets unless you're too late to replace the chain ofcourse. Some even flip the sprockets over. No problem for a bike that has such modest power output and such oversized chains.

[trueblue]

An o-ring chain is a great thing.  But to run it on the 500/550's you need to drop back to a 520 chain and sprockets.  I run an x-ring on my 650 (they had o-ring from factory) and my chain only needs adjusting every 5000miles or so.  I give it a quick squirt of lube every 2-300miles ish.  In my opinion it would be worth the effort. 

[Wobbly]

The 77 750K7 comes with O-ring chain. Are you sure that the 77 550K3 did not?

[Deltarider]

The 77 750K7 comes with O-ring chain. Are you sure that the 77 550K3 did not?

No. Some markets had the endless type, some had the chain with the joint.

[Wobbly]

The 77 750K7 comes with O-ring chain. Are you sure that the 77 550K3 did not?

No. Some markets had the endless type, some had the chain with the joint.

I believe that they all had endless chains--but I wasn't talking about that. Rather,  I was wondering if the 550K3 did not have O-rings already because Honda introduced them that year (the 750 K and F models both had O-ring chains from that year on forward). Thus, the O-ring chain might indeed be the proper replacement chain for him.

[jorwesflow]

Just bought this for the 1977 CB550: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350918993146
and this for the 1971 CB750: www.ebay.com/itm/301009589599

Tell me I'm ok 

[Stev-o]

Just bought this for the 1977 CB550: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350918993146
and this for the 1971 CB750: www.ebay.com/itm/301009589599

Tell me I'm ok 

Very cheap price for the set.  Personally, I wouldnt buy the cheapest chain out there...

[PeWe]

About chain lube... avoid all kind of lube that act as sticky glue. This will kill the chain and sprockets very quick. The chain will look lubed but is not when the sticky lube cannot flow as it should to cover the surface where the chain is in contact with the sprocket and constantly scratch off the lube and need of new lube coming flowing.
I have got motorcycle chains/sprockets plus bicycle chain sprockets destroyed due to bad chain lube.

Uneven stretched chain depending on a rotating wheel is usually as the other has answered, replace sprockets and chain.
Both sporckets must be centered on their axes. I cannot see how to not get that as long as correct sprockets are used.

[Deltarider]

About lube. It's a long time ago I changed my chain. I'm more on a pedalbike nowadays.
Here's a question. Most chains come new a bit oily. Is this already the lube needed for say the first 300 kms or should you start lubing yourself rightaway and before you even start riding. I seem to remember I bought a chain once that came packed in this beige lithium grease. That one for sure was ready to go. Are there still chain brands that come like this?