Topic: Modern sportbike fork oil service procedure/interval?

[DH]

Thought maybe I'd have to service the front fork oil on my 08 cbr600rr. Only there isn't any drain plug for servicing. The factory manual makes no mention of it, only gives the repair procedures for for front suspension/seals,. Is anyone here familiar with this sort of thing? Bike has 20,000 miles, all put on by me and has been well cared for. Do I just let the fluid go until a seal starts leaking and I have to take the thing apart? That doesn't sound like a good idea

[flatlander]

servicing? taking things apart? no man, you just chuck it and buy a new one.

[sorry can't be of any real help with that modern stuff...]

[Steve_K]

20k miles is time to change the oil.  You will need front and rear stands and a manual.  The oil comes out of the fork caps.  The compression damping screws need to cared for.  The is a right way to do it and the manual will tell you the right way.  You can damage the damper adjuster or get the clicker thing off.
Not hard, just alot of steps.
Steve

[DH]

20k miles is time to change the oil.  You will need front and rear stands and a manual.  The oil comes out of the fork caps.  The compression damping screws need to cared for.  The is a right way to do it and the manual will tell you the right way.  You can damage the damper adjuster or get the clicker thing off.
Not hard, just alot of steps.
Steve

I have stands for frt and rear.
I've not seen the procedure in the service manual (factory manual), but will look again.
Is fluid suctioned out using a special tool?

[Steve_K]

I take the forks out of the triple trees and hold them upside down over a pan and pump them to drain the oil.   Under the fork caps there is the rod to adjust the damping, take care not to damage.  I do not remember if that needs to be remove to take the oil out.  I had to because i was changing the springs.

I don't think you could remove all the oil with suction.  You will be surprised on how dirty the oil will be. 

I plan on doing other work when I change fork oil.  The fairing will need to be removed and that is a good time to bleed the brakes and check the pads.  Even the gas tank should come off to avoid dinging it. 
Major service time, check values, air filter ect.
Winter project?
Steve

[DH]

I take the forks out of the triple trees and hold them upside down over a pan and pump them to drain the oil.   Under the fork caps there is the rod to adjust the damping, take care not to damage.  I do not remember if that needs to be remove to take the oil out.  I had to because i was changing the springs.

I don't think you could remove all the oil with suction.  You will be surprised on how dirty the oil will be. 

I plan on doing other work when I change fork oil.  The fairing will need to be removed and that is a good time to bleed the brakes and check the pads.  Even the gas tank should come off to avoid dinging it. 
Major service time, check values, air filter ect.
Winter project?
Steve

Already changed air filter and bled/fluid change. changed coolant with genuine Honda a/f This'll be a learning experience. I HATE removing those fairings. They are never the same fitment again. I haven't checked the valve clearances yet, cause I'm lazy and as a rule,  don"t "beat" on it much.
A check is all I can do, I don't have the tensioner release tool if cams have to come out to add shims. Gonna need pads all around soon, so guess I'll have a go at the fork oil then.  Thanks for the heads up Steve, Appriciated

[grcamna2]

I take the forks out of the triple trees and hold them upside down over a pan and pump them to drain the oil.   Under the fork caps there is the rod to adjust the damping, take care not to damage.  I do not remember if that needs to be remove to take the oil out.  I had to because i was changing the springs.

I don't think you could remove all the oil with suction.  You will be surprised on how dirty the oil will be. 

I plan on doing other work when I change fork oil.  The fairing will need to be removed and that is a good time to bleed the brakes and check the pads.  Even the gas tank should come off to avoid dinging it. 
Major service time, check values, air filter ect.
Winter project?
Steve

+1 on removing each individual fork leg & pumping the old oil out;I can almost say for certain you'll need to remove the top spring cap/damper clicker and the main fork spring on those cartridge forks to do it right and then once you have pumped All the old oil out you should re-fill ea. fork leg and use a fork oil measurement device to measure the fork oil level and exactly match ea. one to each other, fork-fork.The OEM service manual will give you the sequence and service specs & if you have any question as to correct fork oil to use or correct fork oil level;if you have aftermarket fork springs like Progressive's w/ thicker tighter wound coils you may need to use a slight bit less fork oil per each leg and match'em.
I've found if I have a choice between a slightly lighter more synthetic fork oil it works better for me than a heavy,standard fork oil...imo; I've had good all-around success w/ standard ATF fluid as lots of Honda's came stock w/ that.

[DH]

I take the forks out of the triple trees and hold them upside down over a pan and pump them to drain the oil.   Under the fork caps there is the rod to adjust the damping, take care not to damage.  I do not remember if that needs to be remove to take the oil out.  I had to because i was changing the springs.

I don't think you could remove all the oil with suction.  You will be surprised on how dirty the oil will be. 

I plan on doing other work when I change fork oil.  The fairing will need to be removed and that is a good time to bleed the brakes and check the pads.  Even the gas tank should come off to avoid dinging it. 
Major service time, check values, air filter ect.
Winter project?
Steve

+1 on removing each individual fork leg & pumping the old oil out;I can almost say for certain you'll need to remove the top spring cap/damper clicker and the main fork spring on those cartridge forks to do it right and then once you have pumped All the old oil out you should re-fill ea. fork leg and use a fork oil measurement device to measure the fork oil level and exactly match ea. one to each other, fork-fork.The OEM service manual will give you the sequence and service specs & if you have any question as to correct fork oil to use or correct fork oil level;if you have aftermarket fork springs like Progressive's w/ thicker tighter wound coils you may need to use a slight bit less fork oil per each leg and match'em.
I've found if I have a choice between a slightly lighter more synthetic fork oil it works better for me than a heavy,standard fork oil...imo; I've had good all-around success w/ standard ATF fluid as lots of Honda's came stock w/ that.

Mine are stock untouched. I never even played with the adjustments, for fear I'll skew the adjustments. I need to probably have someone set it up for my weight too.. Never worried much about it, because I don't ride it aggressively. Any special tools? (for fluid change procedure)?I have a factory manual for it.

[grcamna2]

The factory Honda manual will tell you if you need any special tools,I don't think you will.Progressive makes a fork oil measuring/oil siphoning tool(you can just use a small ruler,no problem) and you'll need a fork seal driver(if your seals are already leaking,but you said they were fine),but no I don't think you'll need any spec. tools,a second pr. of hands to hold back the spring while you remove/install the top fork nut and clicker assm. will help.

[Steve_K]

Having bike with adjustable damping is for me a real treat.  I suggest pen and pad and record damping settings.  The owners manual should have the stock settings.  It is measured in turns or clicks turned out from bottoming out.  Be gentle when screwing in.  Start at the front or rear and find a road where you can ride the same bumps over and over again.  Adjust rebound or compression only and test the feel.  Get one right and move to the other damper.  The manual should give a ballpark figure for adjusting the springs.

It's fun and I enjoy doing it when the shock and forks are in good condition.  Useless if the shock or forks need to be rebuilt.
Steve

PS  It seems that Japanese bikes had very light test riders.  I  am likely taller and certainly heavier than the test riders and need more spring tension.