Topic: Optical ignition system from Cycle Exchange

[arncruz]

Has anyone used the optical ignition system for  a CB550F from Cycle Exchange?  I'm contemplating this system over the stock system.  It's expensive though $350 so I wanted to get some opinions.

Thanks

[calj737]

My understanding is that it is the same system resold by C5, manufactured by PowerArc. The system resold by C5 indicates the need to use "their" coils and wires for complete function. That's okay by me, as the price complete is equal to a Dyna system.

Two specific advantages I'm told are the PowerArc does not remain charged at all times (easier on electrical system) and the timing curves can be programmed. That's an extra module, but, may be worth it. I haven't bought mine yet, but it is planned for my 500 build. There are a few threads on here about it, also search "PowerArc" and "optical ignition" to uncover them.

I've only seen positive feedback about the core system, and been highly recommended to the C5ignitions.com setup. I don't know the difference between it and CycleX version (if any).

[goldarrow]

I only know that a member here ran CycleX power arc and it failed during GZ ride back in April, I read that customer service was great.   Don't know if it was free replacement though. 

[gto_ron]

I have it on my 750K6 and can recommend the system as a good investment and worth every penny.

best regards

[arncruz]

Thanks guys.  I compared the optical ignition system and the dyna 2000.  I'm not so good with anything electric so I don't know if the two systems are equal replacements for the original system.  I included the pictures of the two systems.  If the systems are equal replacements for the original one, the optical one appears to be the cheaper route.  But it seems like the dyna 2000 system is more popular. Any thoughts on this. 

[scottly]

What other mods are you planning? The ignition systems you are looking at are expensive, and may not give any greater performance than cheaper electronic ignitions.

[calj737]

I think the Dyna tends to be more popular just due to the breadth of shops that resell the system. But, the Dyna systems are more taxing in the charging system, and the coils stay pretty hot while running.

I'm told, the Optical unit only charges 50 DBTDC, so it should use less current, and that discharges three sparks per combustion cycle. I'm not technical enough to sift through that, but I'm told it's better... (I missed my stay in the Holiday Inn this week  ).

I've seen people who use any and every system complain of failures, but that doesn't dissuade me from any of them. I've got Dynas on some bikes now, Boyer on some, but I'm going to use this PowerArc on the next due to its programmable curves, and that is due to the fact the motor is very non-stock.

[arncruz]

Scottly,
I'm a noob at best and just want to make a reliable weekend rider.  The engine when I bought the bike was in bad shape.  Oil leaking after each ride.  Clattering coming from the engine.  Stalling when I stopped.  I have a sport bike that I just got a year ago but I love these older hondas and wanted a project bike I could make my own.  In addition to the ignition system, I plan on upgrading the carbs, wheels, and tires.  I'm keeping the same brakes with new pads, headers, .  Keeping the bike basically as is but a little lighter and make it more reliable.  I don't plan to take it to the track.  My budget is limited and I'm spending the biggest amount of it on the engine.

[bjbuchanan]

Get yourself a Hondaman ignition box. This will reduce point wear to zero and never need readjusting because they basically become switches now. Only like 85$, great investment. I have one, as well as many other people and they are awesome.

Save your cash for other stuff. Most of the Electronic ignition is crap and the ones that aren't are very expensive for the minimal gain (I don't count modified engines, they are a whole diff animal). The advantage most people are paying for is not having to set their points after a couple thousand miles, not much work at all to begin with. Most of the 'improvements' people see from EI setups can usually be obtained from getting a quality set of points and gapping them properly.

You want a low buck hop up? Get the hondaman box, go on ebay and get a set of Andrews Coils, the orangey red ones that are 5 0hm and made for our hondas. They go used all day long for like 60-80$ and go fantastic, they are quality coils and come with replaceable wires.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0;nowap
http://www.sohc4shop.com/catalog/index.php

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xandrews+coils&_nkw=andrews+coils&_sacat=0&_from=R40

While you are ordering your hondaman box pick up the plug and play blade style fusebox too

[PeWe]

I returned to points (TEC complete plate). Dyna S consumed too much power despite 5 ohms coils. Headlight on daytime. I use the Dyna coils with the points that made the bike to run much better since I got ign spot on, on all cylinders.
During my igntion session I fried a Pamco due to crappy Ultimate coils that broke direct. Very fragile ign wire post.

My experience and conclusion:
No reason for electronic unless you have a race bike and need different advance curves like Dyna 2000 offer. Black Dyna coils, TEC points is OK.

Hondaman module is hopefully waiting in my postbox when I arrive home after a holiday with my family.
My engine is midified with 836, ported head, Smoothbore carbs

[arncruz]

bjbuchanan and PeWe, Thanks so much for the comments.  I will probably go this route that you guys are recommending since it is cheaper and I'm not really going to take this bike racing any time soon.   

[bjbuchanan]

It's a solid proven setup you can use on almost all builds, you will be pleased

[arncruz]

bjbuchanan,
Thanks for the advice!  You saved me probably a good $200. That money will go to cut-offs and tires.  Do you have any advice about carbs?  The ones that came with the bike are done and I don't think a rebuild kit would fix them either.  I want to get ones that are plug-and-play type of carbs. 

[AJK]

bjbuchanan and PeWe, Thanks so much for the comments.  I will probably go this route that you guys are recommending since it is cheaper and I'm not really going to take this bike racing any time soon.

I agree with BJ. If you are staying with a stock motor, just grab yourself a hondaman box or a pamco unit. The hondaman box will draw milli-amps through the points instead of amps, so your points will probably never wear out or pit. But yet at the same time, your spark will be beefed up due to the transistorised electronics in the box, with no adverse affects on your electrical system. Easier starting and improved economy.

[arncruz]

Before I get the hondaman box do u guys recommend replacing the old points and condensers?

[calj737]

Fresh points and condensers whether buying HM ignition or not.

[Tews19]

Snap a pic of your carbs. Carbs hardly ever become " to gone" to fix/repair/ clean. The rubbers will go but everything else should be salvageable. 

[calj737]

Do you have any advice about carbs?  The ones that came with the bike are done and I don't think a rebuild kit would fix them either.  I want to get ones that are plug-and-play type of carbs.

Send your carbs to Harisuluv. He can rebuild them or provide you a set of fully rebuilt carbs using yours as cores for other projects.

[dave500]

ive never liked optical triggers,they never have been commonly used from car manufacturers,the lucas "opus"system comes to mind though which quickly got nicknamed "hope less".

[arncruz]

calj737,
What does he charge for this service - rebuild and set up carbs?

[flatlander]

calj737 and dave500:
do you know what advance curve(s) the boyer has, when the rev limiter kicks in and  how much current it uses?
compared to dyna2000 and powerarc i seem to have a hard time finding technical info for the boyer (apart from marketing blurb) but might be looking in the wrong places...

[Deltarider]

Fresh points and condensers whether buying HM ignition or not.

For a transistor ignition module like Hondamans you don't need fresh points as long as they are mechanically sound. Condensors you don't need at all if you go transistorized ignition, but you can keep them there (dis)connected in the event you would have to switch back to conventional Ketter.

[dave500]

calj737 and dave500:
do you know what advance curve(s) the boyer has, when the rev limiter kicks in and  how much current it uses?
compared to dyna2000 and powerarc i seem to have a hard time finding technical info for the boyer (apart from marketing blurb) but might be looking in the wrong places...

forget about a tailored curve,or what curve it has,people read too much into that and it doesn't really apply to our old Hondas, it mostly applies to a slower revving longer stroke old school street driven V8 automobile engine which will benefit from such finesse,the boyer units have no rev limiter?i think the boyers are one of the lesser current hungry units?,im surprised their not used as much as the common failing dynas?i guess being English they get associated with lucas rubbish?

[flatlander]

well i like low tech if it works. no rev limiter is better than one that's set somewhere where you don't want it. and as to the advance curve you're right, but would still be nice to know from when on it's on full advance as that's pretty much the only thing that matters for these hondas.
whatever it does: i gather your happy with yours, dave? hardly anyone here seems to be using them which is enough to make me curious

[dave500]

we don't use the word "curious"here much,for reasons I don't have time to explain,i don't know why not many more use boyer ignitions and I care less for the answer,if the ignition advance system of any engine was more considered an ignition retard system used for starting the engine and less thought was given to trying to be precise with the first few thousand rpm range of its use in advancing the ignition timing there might be a lot less #$%*ing about with #$%* that doesent really matter?you dig?= do you understand?