Author Topic: Oil Light then -clackclackclack- then Dead! (help please) (Read 9645 times)

Nik-bot · « **Reply #50 on:** July 29, 2014, 11:00:05 PM »

the rest of the rockers...

Nik-bot · « **Reply #51 on:** July 29, 2014, 11:01:28 PM »

and the plugs, in case they tell a tale...

trueblue · « **Reply #52 on:** July 30, 2014, 02:06:14 AM »

The rockers show a little galling type of wear, not a death sentence, but not the best either. It is a normal type of wear given the flat tappet design. A little zinc in your oil should prevent further wear. What does peak my interest is the black mark in the cam tunnel, in the picture below. I don't think it is anything to worry about, but it is worth further investigation.

In regard to the rod bearings, I thought you could get access to 2 and 3 OCICBW. I'm not surprised you can't get to 1 and 4.

The other possibility I have just thought of is you could have had a cylinder stop firing and the clacking noise you can hear is the clutch rattling. When that happens it sounds similar to a big end bearing, but the noise should stop when you pull the clutch and engage a gear.

trueblue · « **Reply #53 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:39:49 AM »

The other thing I have come across to cause a knock is if the piston has grabbed in the bore and dragged. It's not very common in petrol engines for it to cause a knock, more so a diesel complaint, most of which have bore squirters which run out of oil first in a starvation situation. It sounds like a big end knock when it happens but not quite as heavy. A compression test will show it up straight away, but as I said not very common with petrol engines. I agree with Cal, put it back together and do a compression test and go from there.

trueblue · « **Reply #54 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:45:24 AM »

BTW Nik, nice busted knuckle in the spark plug photo.

trueblue · « **Reply #55 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:56:49 AM »

Long distance diagnostics are the hardest kind. My sister still rings me up with "My car is making a funny noise, what's wrong with it?" She is over 200km away and that is all the info I get. At least here we get some pictures with the description.

trueblue · « **Reply #56 on:** July 30, 2014, 05:16:28 AM »

Cal, you're a heck of a lot closer than I am.

Compression test will be interesting. The other thing that would be useful is a bore scope. Poke it down the plug hole and have a look-see.

Nik-bot · « **Reply #57 on:** July 30, 2014, 09:14:32 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on July 27, 2014, 05:39:04 AM

...Did you notice anything odd with the transmission while riding? Hard shifting, popping out of gear, won't return to Neutral?

I forgot to respond to the above question. There is a bit of funny business with the transmission. When downshifting from 2nd, it often drops directly into first. This seems to be more of an issue after the bike is warmed up.

Nik-bot · « **Reply #58 on:** July 30, 2014, 09:35:13 AM »

Quote from: trueblue on July 30, 2014, 04:39:49 AM

...I agree with Cal, put it back together and do a compression test and go from there.

That's what I'll do, then!

I'll report back. It might be a few days - my 10-year marriage anniversary is tomorrow so I'll not be out working on the bike.

Nik-bot · « **Reply #59 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:04:35 PM »

Hi All - I'm back. Had a really busy few weeks and could only put in an hour here and there.

To recap: My CB550 lost oil pressure, overheated, and seemed to seize. With the help of this forum, I looked inside but the expected signs of catastrophic failure were not present.

So, I put her back together and fired her up. Here is a video so you can hear the scary sound she makes. Wait until i rev it to around 2,500.

http://youtu.be/lJ3PEXqOrLI

Perhaps hearing this will help you more than my description.

Please tell me what you think and let me know if any additional information/video/etc. could help.

Thanks!

Don R · « **Reply #60 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:15:53 PM »

I'm guessing a rod bearing is gone south, could be a piston. Either way not easily repairable.

brandEn · « **Reply #61 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:24:22 PM »

That sounds like a rod bearing. I spun a rod bearing and thats what it sounded like.

billingstitan · « **Reply #62 on:** August 16, 2014, 07:04:25 PM »

My condolences

trueblue · « **Reply #63 on:** August 17, 2014, 02:31:31 AM »

Definately sounds like a rod bearing, next step would be romove the engine, flip it over and split the cases. After all the previous investigations you have already done, this is your only real option to find the problem. $:-\$

Nik-bot · « **Reply #64 on:** August 18, 2014, 10:50:39 AM »

$:-\$
Given that the full sum of my motorcycle engine experience is present in this thread, I have the distinct feeling that I'm getting in over my head. Is this something for a backyard neophyte to tackle?

70CB750 · « **Reply #65 on:** August 18, 2014, 11:00:54 AM »

What is there to lose? You can only gain - experience and eventually rebuild engine.

Schnell · « **Reply #66 on:** August 18, 2014, 12:51:32 PM »

“Whether you think you can, or you think you can't--you're right.”
― Henry Ford

billingstitan · « **Reply #67 on:** August 18, 2014, 02:16:53 PM »

I would just look for a new engine personally - do your research, find a reputable seller and make the swap. Easy weekend project ... Bearings? Not so much - at least not for me. Tolerances are too tight - too many variables - I can do a lot on these bikes, but the bottom end is where I have to draw the line (that's what she said, lol)

Nik-bot · « **Reply #68 on:** August 18, 2014, 09:08:46 PM »

Quote from: 70CB750 on August 18, 2014, 11:00:54 AM

...What is there to lose?...

Good question! Upon thinking about it, I came to know that what I'm really afraid of losing is the rest of Summer! I tend to take a long time to work through new things. Ten Parts Read/Study/Think to One Part Action. BUT! - I can try to change that...

Nik-bot · « **Reply #69 on:** August 18, 2014, 10:00:27 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 18, 2014, 11:31:52 AM

Is it do-able? Yes. But you do need a few specialty tools and a good deal of organization. A comprehensive manual is necessary too.

Yeah? OK. I'm inspired by that encouragement

. But first...

Comprehensive Manual: Will my Clymer manual do? Lots of stuff I've seen on this forum is not in the manual (assembly lube, methods for torquing during re-assembly, always do this, never do that). If the Clymer is not enough, which should I get?

Specialty Tools: Here's what it seems I'll need. Can you confirm?

piston ring compressor tool
cylinder gauge
micrometer
puller for alternator motor
inside dial gauge

And can I leave the valves alone? If not, it seems that there's a whole 'nother set of tools...

What else should I check while it's torn down?

What should I replace regardless while it's torn down?

~seriously considering it....

70CB750 · « **Reply #70 on:** August 19, 2014, 02:57:42 AM »

You can download shop manual from here:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

Never had Clymer, shop manual is usually better, but every manual I ever had in my hand and used - including T-55 in Russian language

- had mistakes and you still need to use your head to get it done.

Tools:

- ring compressor - I used hose clamp with edges sanded smooth, there are people who do it just with fingers
- cylinder gauge, inside dial gauge and micrometer - you can find it at Enco and/or Grizzly at decent price/quality
- alternator puller, hmm, somebody here makes them and sells them for decent price, but I am not sure now what you need for your bike. Often they are just big bolt with the correct thread, the shop manual should tell you, Clymer likely too.

You can always outsource measurements, local shop could check things for you. Sometimes it is the easier way, since using precision measuring instruments is a skill too and takes time to develop.

Understand, I am not trying to talk you into some adventure here, nobody but you knows your ability - did you ever wrench on something? Setting seat height on a bicycle is not really wrenching - even though technically you are using a wrench to do it

If you decide to do it, take your time, sort your parts - egg cartons, zip locks, containers, sharpie and labels, take pictures. It helps to have it laid out on a work table if you have the space.

Questions: take it one step at a time, ask questions relevant to what you are doing now, there is a lot of people here eager to help you succeed.

What to replace while it's torn down? My crystal ball is little foggy this morning

you will not know till you take it apart.

Good luck!

billingstitan · « **Reply #71 on:** August 23, 2014, 11:50:11 PM »

Do whatev your heart tells ya -

But having just went thru this, those bearings aren't cheap - and the extraneous stuff adds up quick. THEN you are also banking on getting a pretty f'n complicated project right without experience.

Some of these guys can do em in their sleep- but I've seen pretty good mechanics pull apart cases a dozen times trying to get things right.

For me, I knew what my personal limits were - if I was retired I'd consider giving it a shot on this ol 550 engine I spun a bearing on this summer.

But, shoot - I like to wrench alright - but I like to ride a lot more. $579 got me a 77 CB550 engine delivered in four days from a salvage guy w 22000 positive feedback. Only 19000 miles - runs great - and I've had my bike all summer. Still have the other engine on a pallet ... Maybe one of these days I will jump in ... Top ends are pretty feasible, but those bottom ends are complex.

I'm in awe on these guys that can work on them

martin99 · « **Reply #72 on:** August 24, 2014, 12:44:23 AM »

Quote from: billingstitan on August 23, 2014, 11:50:11 PM

Do whatev your heart tells ya -

But having just went thru this, those bearings aren't cheap - and the extraneous stuff adds up quick. THEN you are also banking on getting a pretty f'n complicated project right without experience.

Some of these guys can do em in their sleep- but I've seen pretty good mechanics pull apart cases a dozen times trying to get things right.

For me, I knew what my personal limits were - if I was retired I'd consider giving it a shot on this ol 550 engine I spun a bearing on this summer.

But, shoot - I like to wrench alright - but I like to ride a lot more. $579 got me a 77 CB550 engine delivered in four days from a salvage guy w 22000 positive feedback. Only 19000 miles - runs great - and I've had my bike all summer. Still have the other engine on a pallet ... Maybe one of these days I will jump in ... Top ends are pretty feasible, but those bottom ends are complex.

I'm in awe on these guys that can work on them

Late into this one, not much experience with a 550 but FWIW after listening to the clip I'd go along with rod bearing too.

Now if it were mine, I would just dive in because that's what I've always done. Bit OCD like that, if something breaks I've got to investigate what went wrong and fix it.

Billingstitan has a point though. When I think about it, I've spent countless hours (and $$$) in the garage refusing to let something beat me, when I could have been out riding. As I get older, I'm less inclined to get my hands dirty or waste time, hence this week my car went to the garage for service (first time I haven't done it myself) and I even paid some guys to handwash it whilst I sat inside playing on my phone.

My take is, if you want to learn how to do it then dive in, nothing more satisfying than starting it back up after all the hard work. But if the experience isn't that important to you, a second-hand motor could well be the cheapest and least hassle option. These days I think even I might be seriously considering the latter (Naw, who am I trying to kid?

)

Good luck with it whichever way you go.

Nik-bot · « **Reply #73 on:** July 11, 2015, 04:36:34 PM »

Just from listening to the engine run in my earlier video, the consensus on this forum was that I spun a rod bearing. You guys nailed it.

I couldn't stop thinking about the poor bike in the back yard and decided to tear into it.

The video (link below) might not show it very well, but the the con rod for piston #4 has a lot of lateral movement.

I'll be asking for help as I work through this but so far have been able to find all my answers on this forum and the manuals.

Thanks for getting me this far!

754 · « **Reply #74 on:** July 11, 2015, 05:25:49 PM »

If it's a rod.. It had pressure cold, then as it warms it would start losing it.....

A bit like he described.. Thanks. Would try to see if the big end of a rod is loose if you can reach them..
If the rod bearing did go out rapidly there would be metal in the oil.. I just pour the oil across a piece of inclined carboard..same piece I use under the oil tank of. 750. Then I lay the filter on it to drain out. With the cardboard at a 10-15 degree angle.. You'll see it on the cardboard or the filter housing if it was a rapid failure..

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Author Topic: Oil Light then -clackclackclack- then Dead! (help please) (Read 9645 times)