Topic: '75 572 for the Tinman - Powder Coating done

[Blackfin5]

Careful Retro ----the NSA monitors this site frequently.   

[calj737]

Probably more likely the IRS.

[Retro Rocket]

Careful Retro ----the NSA monitors this site frequently.   

Thats ok mate, they probably feel left out, they can join the politicians, they are just as slimey...

Cal, you are probably right...

[calj737]

Well, this is the most current progress so far; powder coater finally gave me back the cases, head, jugs and fork lowers! Also, a few brackets in a test spray 

Going with a fine textured black wrinkle for the cases




Jugs and head are treated with Thermal Dispersion coating to aide in cooling


Some more of the side covers


Anybody who wants to see professionally applied PC and how "thin" it is, here you go:


Mounting brackets in shimmering silver metallic (very subtle sheen)


Frame and brackets will all be in this color


So gotta drop the jugs off to machine shop for boring, head for some milling and porting and other inspection.

Still waiting on the trans to come home, deciding on which MegaCylce cam to use, and a few other bits before I can button up the motor. And I need to get my butt moving on the swing arm fabrication and seat hoop decisions 

[Lostboy Steve]

I love Wrinkle black. I intentionally tried to avoid it on my first build because I'll go overboard, but those cases look great. I wound up doing my luggage rack and sissy bar that same micro texture, it hides any pitting very well.

[calj737]

It can hide pitting if it's applied heavily. You can see on the alternator cover, where I welded up the cover plate holes and milled the profile, the lathe revealed a wee bit of air pockets in my fill. And, you can still see the maching marks.

Me, I'd rather have a pro-applied properly thin coat than a heavy, covering coat. I just need to be more diligent about my machining and welding (damn oil impregnated cast parts :-( )

[Lostboy Steve]

Thats too bad. You could always re-do it.

[Lostboy Steve]

If its a really bad pit yeah it cant be thin. Mine were done very thin, but the rack only had some surface rust so after a blast, it only had little micro pits in some spots. I'm sure if I really examined it they might still show. Its a luggage rack tho, and I am awaiting the first scratch from a bungee cord hook or something. That engine is going to look sinister. I love it.

[calj737]

I'm not re-doing it. It's been powder coated already, and to set it up in the lathe, after drilling out the whole and re-welding it, nah... My buddy will live with it graciously. It's not a show bike, it's a ride bike. Besides, until I point it out, most will overlook it anyway.

Yep, a few polished bits and stainless ARP fasteners, and the motor will look quite sinister indeed. Exactly the attitude we are after.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

That's a great color and texture. All of the crinkle finish I've seen so far here is less refined. That looks really great, Cal.

[Blackfin5]

Cal, looking good!  The silver also visually hides pitting.  I powder coated my 550 cases (thin coat) in that silver and it hides most of the imperfections.  It's still a smooth finish and wipes clean very easily.

[SF]

looks great ss bolts will make it. nice job too

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I'm not re-doing it. It's been powder coated already, and to set it up in the lathe, after drilling out the whole and re-welding it, nah... My buddy will live with it graciously. It's not a show bike, it's a ride bike. Besides, until I point it out, most will overlook it anyway.

Yep, a few polished bits and stainless ARP fasteners, and the motor will look quite sinister indeed. Exactly the attitude we are after.

By ARP fasteners, are you referring to those trick-looking 12-point bolts you used on your build?

[calj737]

Nope. Gonna use their hex flange heads this build. Same product, different head style.

[Stev-o]

Looks like a "show" motor to me!   Nice choice of colors/texture.   

[Lostboy Steve]

I'm not re-doing it. It's been powder coated already, and to set it up in the lathe, after drilling out the whole and re-welding it, nah... My buddy will live with it graciously. It's not a show bike, it's a ride bike. Besides, until I point it out, most will overlook it anyway.

Yep, a few polished bits and stainless ARP fasteners, and the motor will look quite sinister indeed. Exactly the attitude we are after.

By ARP fasteners, are you referring to those trick-looking 12-point bolts you used on your build?

What studs do you use? The dynoman ones with arp nuts?

[calj737]

Yes, exactly. I got my exhaust studs and intake studs and all my ARP bolts thru allensfasteners.com. Put together a spreadsheet with every nut and bolt for engine cases, covers, mounts, frame stud, that I could envision, then ordered every piece all at once. Was over 160 pieces and I'm sure I missed some still.

All the case bolts are flangehead, nuts are too for uniformity. Only place where I'll run a socket head is the alternator mounting bolts (3) and fork lowers for damper rods.

The trick to sorting them all out was I bought a cheap kit of socket heads pre-sorted and labeled and packaged for $40. I used that as a template, then picked thru the parts fiches one by one, and added everything to a spreadsheet. Took me about 2 hours to be certain I got everything. Then when the bolts came in, I repackaged everything into small bags for organization with labels for location. Yeah, I know, I have too much time on my hands.....

[Lostboy Steve]

Yes, exactly. I got my exhaust studs and intake studs and all my ARP bolts thru allensfasteners.com. Put together a spreadsheet with every nut and bolt for engine cases, covers, mounts, frame stud, that I could envision, then ordered every piece all at once. Was over 160 pieces and I'm sure I missed some still.

All the case bolts are flangehead, nuts are too for uniformity. Only place where I'll run a socket head is the alternator mounting bolts (3) and fork lowers for damper rods.

The trick to sorting them all out was I bought a cheap kit of socket heads pre-sorted and labeled and packaged for $40. I used that as a template, then picked thru the parts fiches one by one, and added everything to a spreadsheet. Took me about 2 hours to be certain I got everything. Then when the bolts came in, I repackaged everything into small bags for organization with labels for location. Yeah, I know, I have too much time on my hands.....

...I wish I had that much time on my hands. Listen, not for nothing, you should probably share that list with us since you spent all that time making it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Cal,

Do you have a tried and true method of removing crusty exhaust studs?

[calj737]

Lostboy - can't imagine anyone in their right mind would care OR undertake the replacement of every bolt? I tend to dwell alone in my senility.

Don - yup, stud puller and heat. Works perfectly every time without any breaks. Every other method I've ever seen can break studs or bolts. Stud puller is cheap but invaluable. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Lostboy - can't imagine anyone in their right mind would care OR undertake the replacement of every bolt? I tend to dwell alone in my senility.

Don - yup, stud puller and heat. Works perfectly every time without any breaks. Every other method I've ever seen can break studs or bolts. Stud puller is cheap but invaluable.

Cal,

I saw that APE sells a stud removal tool SP-100, but that's for cylinder studs.  Will that work for the exhaust studs, too?  Do you have another tool source for what you use?

Thanks!
Don

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Also, Cal, do you prep the studs before hand with heat or solvent?

[calj737]

Mine is a Snap-On from 1980 given to me by the rep when I bought my tools. I'd suspect their tool will work for anything 6mm-14mm. They all use the same principle: twisting the shank near the case to apply the force longitudinally instead of in a single direction from the other end of threads (double-nutting). That method tends to put more stress on the shank midway.

When removing, heat them cherry red. Install, I use pre-lube. Prevents re-torque requirements.

I've seen $15 units at HF that look like they'd work fine

[Tews19]

Cal the powder coat on the cases looks awesome! That is by far my favorite look for these engines!

[calj737]

Thank you, brother. I'm really pleased with them too. Gonna use it for my R90 project because I like it so much.