Author Topic: 1972 CB750K2 (start from scratch) project. Cases back together (Read 100668 times)

Davez134 · « **Reply #100 on:** December 30, 2014, 11:24:21 PM »

Feeling really accomplished right now. Thanks to all ya'll and Hondaman's book, I got my cases together and everything moves so smooth. First time doing bottom end. I had some hiccups, some parts needed to be replaced, but in the end I took my time and know it is done right.

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edwardmorris · « **Reply #101 on:** December 31, 2014, 01:58:24 PM »

Sweet! Did you have any trouble getting the crank bolts torque properly? I'm dreading that they may not go in all the way through smoothly on mine and someone around here cautioned me against running a tap through those. I guess I'll find out soon enough $:-\$

Davez134 · « **Reply #102 on:** December 31, 2014, 03:00:38 PM »

I did not have any problem with the crank bolts or threads. I did not use a tap, but I cleaned the #$%* out of the holes with a nylon brush, dishwasher(still can't believe I got away with that one) and finally compressed air. I was able to get them to seat against case just using fingers to tighten. Cleaned bolt threads really well too.

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #103 on:** December 31, 2014, 04:55:23 PM »

Nothing's better than doing it yourself. Wish I had Hondamans book when I did mine, but this forum is great. Looking good!

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Davez134 · « **Reply #104 on:** January 01, 2015, 09:54:55 AM »

Quote from: rickmoore24 on December 31, 2014, 04:55:23 PM

Nothing's better than doing it yourself. Wish I had Hondamans book when I did mine, but this forum is great. Looking good!

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Yeah, much better feeling doing it yourself. You know that it's done right. The book and this forum are invaluable. Now I just have to wait for a warmer day to paint it. Supposed to be mid 60's here in about a week so looking good!

Davez134 · « **Reply #105 on:** January 04, 2015, 05:12:28 PM »

Well, weather report says it's gonna be almost 70 degrees here in Vegas tomorrow. Scrambled and got all my stuff cleaned, masked and ready to go for paint!

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Davez134 · « **Reply #106 on:** January 05, 2015, 10:01:20 PM »

Paint today. Perfect temp outside. VHT cast aluminum on head. VHT wrinkle plus on everything else...

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Davez134 · « **Reply #107 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:11:50 AM »

Kibblewhite HD studs installed. Case threads were clean and in great shape, so no loctite used, just small amount of anti-sieze. Motion pro stud installer made it very easy, torqued down per instructions.

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edwardmorris · « **Reply #108 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:22:31 AM »

Cool tip! Didn't know of the stud nut thingy. One question though, why the anti-sieze? IIRC these need to stay in place with locktite...I'll see if I can dig up an installation vid where someone actually used red loctite on HD studs

Davez134 · « **Reply #109 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:28:45 AM »

Instructions said only use loctite if threads feel "loose." Don't know how to quantify that, but they did not. Instructions stated to use either lube or antisieze. Didn't use lube cause I didn't want false readings/hydrolock. The threads that go into case on the studs are an interference thread and grab awesome. I just barely touched the threads with antisieze, just enough to provide ease of installing. Hope I did it right.

Also, saw this...reply number 5
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=112239.msg1260853#msg1260853

edwardmorris · « **Reply #110 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:38:39 AM »

Thanks! Saved to notes.

Davez134 · « **Reply #111 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:45:22 AM »

Quote from: edwardmorris on January 06, 2015, 09:38:39 AM

Thanks! Saved to notes.

No problem. Good think there is no limit on search feature, I would have wore it out already

edwardmorris · « **Reply #112 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:50:48 AM »

I wish the google custom search comes back here. Lately, I've been using their advanced search to only search these forums, and now they're throwing that nasty little captcha test each time (type the letters in the pic to proceed crap). I guess somehow I managed to get close to that limit

. I backed off before they start to block me out completely

Edit: From my notes from a while back,

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=101358.msg1132684#msg1132684

it seems like some prefer loctite, others don't, I'll have to dig into it soon.

Davez134 · « **Reply #113 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:26:21 PM »

Well, if mine come loose and top end falls off, I'll post pics

calj737 · « **Reply #114 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:54:19 PM »

Different stud manufacturers recommend different products for installing studs, especially different types of studs.

When using lubricants (not anti-sieze) torque measures also differ. Dave you've done right; follow each stud manufacturers instructions exactly and no "general" rule applies to all studs. (Except to follow the directions!).

Davez134 · « **Reply #115 on:** January 08, 2015, 08:33:18 PM »

None of my friends have any tools to loan for degreeing my cam. Made some today, see if I can get repeatable numbers. If not I guess I'll have to buy some.

Piston stop from old spark plug and brass m6 bolt. Welded a m6 nut inside for adjustment.

High res degree wheel image backed by thin clipboard type material. Hole drilled dead center, 12mm bit to match alternator side bolt shaft

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timbo750 · « **Reply #116 on:** January 08, 2015, 11:54:03 PM »

I am very curious, what is the purpose of the spark plug and brass bolt??

Bootsey · « **Reply #117 on:** January 09, 2015, 01:25:14 AM »

Looking great, that tank & sidecover colour is awesome!

Davez134 · « **Reply #118 on:** January 09, 2015, 05:19:23 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on January 08, 2015, 11:54:03 PM

I am very curious, what is the purpose of the spark plug and brass bolt??

I haven't degreed in a cam yet but have been reading enough to where I'm pretty sure I understand. The purpose of the bolt in the spark plug is to find true TDC. You get a piston (im using #1) near TDC, thread the "piston stop tool" into spark plug hole and turn the motor forward until the piston comes to a stop touching that brass bolt, record that number on the degree wheel. Then turn motor backwards, when it stops against the bolt record that number. The difference in the two numbers is True TDC. (I think

) Once you have found that, you remove and move on from there. I have a Webcam and adjustable sprocket.

timbo750 · « **Reply #119 on:** January 09, 2015, 12:51:44 PM »

It makes sense to me Dave. I have not hot that far yet on my build snd on the car engines I have worked on I have always relied on the manufactures markings.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #120 on:** January 09, 2015, 02:25:48 PM »

IINM, the stock cams can be done using the factory markings, but I'll be running a megacycle on my K3, so this is good learning.

Davez134 · « **Reply #121 on:** January 09, 2015, 02:48:40 PM »

Quote from: edwardmorris on January 09, 2015, 02:25:48 PM

IINM, the stock cams can be done using the factory markings, but I'll be running a megacycle on my K3, so this is good learning.

Yeah, I used stock cam on my last motor, used factory markings. Easy. I'm doing a webcam 41 on this one. I'll post up more for ya if I come across any more good info. Plan on getting it done this weekend.

calj737 · « **Reply #122 on:** January 09, 2015, 05:09:23 PM »

Dave. - the method you're using will work well. If, you get to it prior to assembly, mark the timing plate with true TDC by using a dial caliper on top of the piston while head is off. Then, install degree wheel and adjust cam after installation of the head.

But you're doing a great job post-assembly

Davez134 · « **Reply #123 on:** January 09, 2015, 07:04:54 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on January 09, 2015, 05:09:23 PM

Dave. - the method you're using will work well. If, you get to it prior to assembly, mark the timing plate with true TDC by using a dial caliper on top of the piston while head is off. Then, install degree wheel and adjust cam after installation of the head.

But you're doing a great job post-assembly

Sweet, I'm going to do that! Seems much easier. don't have head on yet. I just got done setting ring gaps and installing pistons. I will find tdc with your method tomorrow when I start up again. Thanks!

Davez134 · « **Reply #124 on:** January 11, 2015, 03:10:50 PM »

So I got pistons/cylinders installed, mls gasket. Found TDC using dial gauge before installing head, as suggested. Man that was way easier than what I had originally planned!

TDC is exactly in line with timing mark

Going to stop here today.

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Author Topic: 1972 CB750K2 (start from scratch) project. Cases back together (Read 100668 times)