Topic: NEW Cal Fab swingarms for the 750

[creepxstreet]

It would be awesome if they made a version for eye-to-eye shocks.

I think clevis mounts make the most sense as the closest "bolt on" option. Is there some advantage to eye to eyes over clevis mount? Every shock choice out there nowadays comes in either option.

[Elan]

It would be awesome if they made a version for eye-to-eye shocks.

I think clevis mounts make the most sense as the closest "bolt on" option. Is there some advantage to eye to eyes over clevis mount? Every shock choice out there nowadays comes in either option.

Maybe. It always seemed to me that there's more options in eye to eye, especially browsing used oem take offs.

[creepxstreet]

I think that once you're running a swing arm like this, you won't be interested in running own take offs.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Is there a swingarm for the 750 F0 through F3 Model's?

+1 Wonder how many it would take to get that price?! Group buy?

[Cougars750F0]

Is there a swingarm for the 750 F0 through F3 Model's?

+1 Wonder how many it would take to get that price?! Group buy?
I'm  interested  but  not  for  a while because my shop was burglerised. The good news is that the  bikes were not stolen!  I got there before it was all gone.

[Retro Rocket]

It would be awesome if they made a version for eye-to-eye shocks.

I think clevis mounts make the most sense as the closest "bolt on" option. Is there some advantage to eye to eyes over clevis mount? Every shock choice out there nowadays comes in either option.

Maybe. It always seemed to me that there's more options in eye to eye, especially browsing used oem take offs.

With high quality shocks like Ohlins you can get both clevis and eye to eye on any twin shock....

[Wobbly]

As a side note/alternative: the German company K&J makes really nice swing arms for all CB750 Fours. They are bolt-on parts, and street-legal in Germany--pass the German TUEV inspection, which is extremely difficult to pass. Thus, they have been thoroughly tested. Not cheap--but if you are thinking Ohlins, that better not be a concern anyhow. Your choice of chrome, paint, or powder coated. I thought you might find them interesting.
http://www.krueger-junginger.de/Stahlschwingen-2011.pdf

http://www.krueger-junginger.de/html/kastenschwingen.html

[Retro Rocket]

Wobbly, no offense mate but, this thread is about the cal fab arms , there are other companies making aluminium arms for the Honda's as well, mainly in Japan and the US, I started this thread to show the Motogpwerks arm no one elses, These arms are extremely well built and would pass any Government inspection, they are better than the original calfab arms which were built for racing. I know about the German arms I have that link, I prefer aluminium,  those arms are steel, just like the Dresda ones Carpy makes.... Feel free to start your own thread if you wish to show other arms.....

[Retro Rocket]

Is there a swingarm for the 750 F0 through F3 Model's?

How much longer is the FO arm Cougar..? I think the FO-F1 have a different length arm to the F2-F3's.  These arms are 20mm longer than a stock K so they should be fine for the early F's..

[Retro Rocket]

It would be awesome if they made a version for eye-to-eye shocks.

For what Shocks Elan...? All the good model shocks on the market for these bikes are eye to clevis..?

[Retro Rocket]

Got mine and it's on the bike already. Going with a cbr f3 rear wheel, brake, and 160 tire. The cbr assembly fit perfect with no spacers and I'm going to need 2 small spacers to center the arm in the frame. With the arm centered, the wheel is offset 3/8s to the right and I will need a 3/8s offset sprocket. Bike already has a complete gsxr 1000 front end on it.

I called Chris on Saturday to confirm fitment after getting it in and seeing that it will require spacers and he said his mockup bike was a 72. My bike is a 75 K. I'm not sure if or when the swing arm dimensions changed or if my bike is just a little goofy. It won't take a large spacer probably 3/16 an inch on each side. I'll be back at the shop later this week to finish those and mount foot controls (thinking high mids like a pro flat track bike) and I'll be able to get solid measurements.
Here's my bike.

Gday mate, I just measured 2 stock arms, one on a K2 frame and one on a K6 frame and they both measured around 226mm {they are both in frames so the measurement is within half to a quarter of a mm}, My calfab arm measured the same at just a fraction over 226mm, measuring the pivot tube from end to end....

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

How did you do the measurement? I can check my F/F1 arm also (unmounted). The Cal Fab would need a brake stay mount welded on.

[Cougars750F0]

Is there a swingarm for the 750 F0 through F3 Model's?

How much longer is the FO arm Cougar..? I think the FO-F1 have a different length arm to the F2-F3's.  These arms are 20mm longer than a stock K so they should be fine for the early F's..

I can't measure it rite now  my F0 is in a protected  storage  facility until I  an get my  new shop  up and running.

[Retro Rocket]

How did you do the measurement? I can check my F/F1 arm also (unmounted). The Cal Fab would need a brake stay mount welded on.

On the pivot tube..?  I used a tape measure in MM one of the swingarms {in the K@ frame} doesn't have the collars on it so it was easy, the other i just measured in frame and it was so close to the K2 that i assumed it to be identical, the calfab was easy, took it out the box....   Jerry, for length, measure from the centre of the pivot tube or bolt {same measurement}  to the front of the axle slot, for width, just measure the swingarm itself, not the bushes or with the collars or caps or whatever you want to call them, just the width of the actual swingarm pivot tube... Thats what i measured....

[MRieck]

As a side note/alternative: the German company K&J makes really nice swing arms for all CB750 Fours. They are bolt-on parts, and street-legal in Germany--pass the German TUEV inspection, which is extremely difficult to pass. Thus, they have been thoroughly tested. Not cheap--but if you are thinking Ohlins, that better not be a concern anyhow. Your choice of chrome, paint, or powder coated. I thought you might find them interesting.
http://www.krueger-junginger.de/Stahlschwingen-2011.pdf

http://www.krueger-junginger.de/html/kastenschwingen.html

I have to say this swingarm is for an F. I have the last JMC swingarm on earth made for an F so I don't give a $hit. I have to be honest and say they should use a tube like modern bikes for the axle........just saying.

[seanbarney41]

Wobbly, no offense mate but, this thread is about the cal fab arms , there are other companies making aluminium arms for the Honda's as well, mainly in Japan and the US, I started this thread to show the Motogpwerks arm no one elses, These arms are extremely well built and would pass any Government inspection, they are better than the original calfab arms which were built for racing. I know about the German arms I have that link, I prefer aluminium,  those arms are steel, just like the Dresda ones Carpy makes.... Feel free to start your own thread if you wish to show other arms.....

If anybody out there is looking for a swingarm, I would strongly advise against the Carpy Dresda copy.  I bought one used from a member here and it is total garbage...flimsy, just as heavy as the stocker, axle adjusters are too small for the box section so that it crushes when you tighten the axle, absolutely no performance advantage.  It looks very similar to the KJ arm, but the KJ arm has more bracing on the pivot tube, and I am sure, the KJ must be a higher quality piece...sorry Retro about the off topic, really just all the more reason to consider the
MotoGPWerks piece.

[Retro Rocket]

Wobbly, no offense mate but, this thread is about the cal fab arms , there are other companies making aluminium arms for the Honda's as well, mainly in Japan and the US, I started this thread to show the Motogpwerks arm no one elses, These arms are extremely well built and would pass any Government inspection, they are better than the original calfab arms which were built for racing. I know about the German arms I have that link, I prefer aluminium,  those arms are steel, just like the Dresda ones Carpy makes.... Feel free to start your own thread if you wish to show other arms.....

If anybody out there is looking for a swingarm, I would strongly advise against the Carpy Dresda copy.  I bought one used from a member here and it is total garbage...flimsy, just as heavy as the stocker, axle adjusters are too small for the box section so that it crushes when you tighten the axle, absolutely no performance advantage.  It looks very similar to the KJ arm, but the KJ arm has more bracing on the pivot tube, and I am sure, the KJ must be a higher quality piece...sorry Retro about the off topic, really just all the more reason to consider the
MotoGPWerks piece.

No problem Sean...

[creepxstreet]

Back on track here, when are you 2 other guys getting your swing arms in and riding them?

[Retro Rocket]

Back on track here, when are you 2 other guys getting your swing arms in and riding them?

I have 3 different aluminum swingarms, I have to decide which is going on which bike as I'm only keeping one. I think i may use the calfab arm first, I'm waiting on some frame work to be finished before i can get the frame powder coated and fit the arm, I'll post here as soon as its in...   I just re read your original post, if your wheel is offset you need to adjust your wheel spacers, or are you referring to the sprocket carrier poking out further  ..?  If it's just the sprocket carrier, all you need to do is shave 3/8ths off it, I've done this before and it works well...

[creepxstreet]

The wheel is only 1/8 inch more offset than what we measured the stock rear wheel to be offset at. I also need a 3/8s inch offset front sprocket to get chainline straight.

[Retro Rocket]

The wheel is only 1/8 inch more offset than what we measured the stock rear wheel to be offset at. I also need a 3/8s inch offset front sprocket to get chainline straight.

Thats what i'm saying, you need to center the wheel, the stock rear wheel shouldn't be offset at all....?  the easy way to get the chain line right is to take some material off the sprocket carrier, it has to be perfect as well....

[creepxstreet]

I couldn't find any solid info on stock wheel offset. 1/8 inch more can't hurt too much and there were no tracking issues previously. If it's all #$%*ed up I'll redo it. I'm not sure how much I can take off the cush drive face or how much tire to chain clearance. It's something I'll be paying close attention to though.

[Retro Rocket]

I couldn't find any solid info on stock wheel offset. 1/8 inch more can't hurt too much and there were no tracking issues previously. If it's all #$%*ed up I'll redo it. I'm not sure how much I can take off the cush drive face or how much tire to chain clearance. It's something I'll be paying close attention to though.

You won't find any info on "stock wheel offset", there shouldn't be any offset, it should sit dead center .... I've seen this problem before and its usually down to a poorly spoked rear wheel or using the wrong spacers, allowing the wheel to sit off center. Do you have a build thread..?  We should be discussing this there....

[johno]

Sorry to butt in Retro but the poor bloke is stressing about his offset .
Creepstreet jump on my thread Salt lake racer oz style, halfway down the page and I'll explain how the model changes the swing arm.
cheers johno

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

How did you do the measurement? I can check my F/F1 arm also (unmounted). The Cal Fab would need a brake stay mount welded on.

On the pivot tube..?  I used a tape measure in MM one of the swingarms {in the K@ frame} doesn't have the collars on it so it was easy, the other i just measured in frame and it was so close to the K2 that i assumed it to be identical, the calfab was easy, took it out the box....   Jerry, for length, measure from the centre of the pivot tube or bolt {same measurement}  to the front of the axle slot, for width, just measure the swingarm itself, not the bushes or with the collars or caps or whatever you want to call them, just the width of the actual swingarm pivot tube... Thats what i measured....

OK so we're on the same page here. For the swingarm length I got 430mm from the center of the pivot bolt to the front of the axle slot and the width of the swingarm tube only without bushes is 230mm.

Can I get a second verification measurement from someone?