Topic: Stripped rear view mirror mounting: any suggestions?

[rob]

Hi everyone,

The theaded part of the right lever that accepts the rear view mirror on my 81 CB650 Custom is stripped quite badly.  Bad enough that the rear view mirror on that side is essentially worthless.  Anyone have any suggestions on fixing it up?  I was thinking of putting some metal epoxy in the hole and trying to form new threads/glue the mirror in, or else  just taping it down.  Anyone suggestions would be great!

Thanks,

Rob

[Jonesy]

I've seen liquid thread restorer at auto parts stores, but I've never used it and I don't know how much force it can take. You may want to look into a Heli-Coil thread repair kit. You will need to determine the thread size for the mirrors and buy the kit that has the drill bit, tap, coils and installation tool. You drill out the old threads, tap the hole and screw in the coil. The threads will be as good as (if not better than) new. The only difficulty I could see is if the blind hole is deep enough for the tap. You should probably research it further before going ahead with it.

[Chris Liston]

you could try using a tap and die set and rethreading it.  Or go for some bar end mirrors.  

[Dennis]

I was thinking of putting some metal epoxy in the hole and trying to form new threads/glue the mirror in, or else  just taping it down.

Some of the "metalized" epoxies claim to be "tapable" however I have no idea how they would hold up to the high vibration that would be present in a mirror mount. On the other hand what if it didn't work? I don't think that you would be in a very much worse situation than you are now, the epoxy would probably just break out.
As far a taping it, that sounds like an exercise in frustration.
My first thought was a threaded insert, Helicoil or one of the machined type.
Don't know what else to suggest to you!

[rob]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the responses.

These threaded inserts:  I dont know what these are, but I am assuming that I boreout the mount, and insert something that is threaded on the inside, and epoxy it in place, then screw the mirror into the insert?

Thanks,

Rob

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Rob, they're easy to helicoil, just take your mirror to a tool shop and ask for a kit for that thread. (from memory, most mirrors are 10 x 1.5mm, but don't quote me) The kit includes a threading tap, some inserts, and an inserting tool, and sometimes, a drill bit.

All you do is drill out the remains of the buggared thread, re-tap the thread (you'll need either a tap handle, or a shifting  spanner will suffice if used carefully) then use the insertion tool with a little thread locking adhesive like "Loctite" to insert the new helicoil in place.

The whole job takes about 30 minutes, and the cost is probably around the $50.00 mark to do it yourself (and keep the kit for any more sohc-4 emergencies) or probably about the same to get a bike shop to do it. Cheers, Terry.

[Tim.]

DUCT TAPE!

Seriously, either repair it via Heli Coil as mentioned above, or source a replacement on eBay or somewhere.  What's attached to the mount?  Is the master cylinder a part of this structure like on earlier CB's?

[hymodyne]

evening,

I've seen a stick solder type material advertized on television, and may have run across it on the web as well.  supposedly you are able to blend it with aluminium with a torch and  once it cools, it advertized as being grindable.

otherwise, if its the brake side you could drill out the stripped hole, and perhaps insert a threaded plug made from a soft steel machine bolt cut to length, after you've tapped and drilled that out to accomodate the threads of the mirror stem. clutch side, same thing.

hymodyne (aka the black McGuyver)

[SCJIM]

...and i thought i was a string & tape man...

why not just find an appropriate replacement mastercylinder at a junkyard

i mean really, am i the only guy here looking for spare parts ??

or maybe im just spinnin my wheels...

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Hymo, I hope your fixes work better than that "white honky", ha ha! Cheers, Terry.

 

...and i thought i was a string & tape man...
why not just find an appropriate replacement mastercylinder at a junkyard
i mean really, am i the only guy here looking for spare parts ??
or maybe im just spinnin my wheels...

Trouble with most used M/C's is that they need to be reconditioned, repainted etc, so if yours works ok, just fix that damn thread! If you're just looking for spare parts mate, you're better off spending your time on ebay. Cheers, Terry. 

[Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"]

evening,

I've seen a stick solder type material advertized on television, and may have run across it on the web as well.  supposedly you are able to blend it with aluminium with a torch and  once it cools, it advertized as being grindable.

otherwise, if its the brake side you could drill out the stripped hole, and perhaps insert a threaded plug made from a soft steel machine bolt cut to length, after you've tapped and drilled that out to accomodate the threads of the mirror stem. clutch side, same thing.

hymodyne (aka the black McGuyver)

Its called Alumiweld  and it works, you buy it by the pound.  Practice with the first pound and then you will be amazed what you will fix after that. 

[Jonesy]

Another type of thread repair system is called "Keenserts". They look similar to a heli-coil, but after you screw them into place, there are 4 raised spots around the rim of the inserts (also used for screwing them in) that you smack down with a hammer (upsetting the outer threads) to lock them into place.

[mcpuffett]

hi, just had my sump pan drain hole helicoiled at a cost of £15.00 english squid  bloke who did it was called dick turpin   :Di nearly keeled over when he told me  but it is as good as new know  mick.

[Terry in Australia]

hi, just had my sump pan drain hole helicoiled at a cost of £15.00 english squid  bloke who did it was called dick turpin   :Di nearly keeled over when he told me  but it is as good as new know  mick.

G'Day Mick, I don't wanna rain on your parade, but the trouble with helicoiling your sump plug thread is that inside your sump plate there is a cast "channel" for oil and other debris to run out the hole which will be effectively blocked by the helicoil, as it'll sit "proud" of the channel.

Not a real big issue, it just means that anything below the level of the helicoil won't drain away when you do your oil changes. I dropped the sump plate (which had been helicoiled) off my f2 engine and was surprised at the amount of muck therein, caused by the helicoil blocking it's flow out of the plug hole.

In that case I bought another sump plate, but you could probably just drill and re-tap it for a bigger sump plug, as I believe you can buy oversize sump plugs for cars that will do the trick. Cheers, Terry.

[Clyde]

If you are looking for a helicoil or insert, the correct thread is a 10mm  by 1.25mm. (unless CB650s are different to most other Hondas)

[Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"]

the helicoil is the best bet because once you buy the kit you get 10 extra coils and you will use them.

[rob]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the advice.  For completion to anyone who is following this thread, or anyone stumbling upon this thread in the future, here are a few good links I found about helicoils:

http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=233
http://www.toolsnextday.ltd.uk/Helicoil_Kits/helicoil_usage.htm
http://www.streetchopperweb.com/tech/0403stc_thread/

Thanks,

Rob