Author Topic: Two 550's and a 500. Home stretch now (Read 46819 times)

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #275 on:** August 22, 2015, 09:38:45 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 22, 2015, 09:24:40 PM

Brake leak: quite possible that you didn't get the deal groove fully cleaned. Or, possibly you knocked the seal and fluid is leaking past.

Brake switch: check that the Gr/Yllw wire from the front brake switch has continuity to the rear light connection.

Horn: there should be power delivered to the horn form the harness, the Lt Gr wire from the LH switch provides the ground. The Clutch "cancel" has nothing to do with this function. Check for presence of 12v at the horn (Br or BLK) and then continuity to ground on Lt Gr.

Running on cylinders 2&3: quite likely an issue with left side coil that serves cylinders 1/4. Either points, condenser, or small possibility that the coil is an issue. My money is on your condensers.

Thanks Cal,Ill plan to disassemble the caliper and clean again, going to use my dremel tool this time. Any input on the best replacement condensers?? Ill order some right away, And the horn isn't a issue right now just the starter electric starter button, If i go direct across the solenoid she turns over so i know the starter is good.

calj737 · « **Reply #276 on:** August 23, 2015, 05:06:36 AM »

Only TEC brand ignition parts if you value your hair

The START button is Yllw/Red wire coming from right. Coming off the solenoid, the YLLW/Red should have continuity to ground if you disconnect it from the harness. Pushing the button at the switch completes the Ground and allows power from the battery to transfer to the starter motor (the 2 studs on top). Your solenoid might also have a thin BLK wire beside the Y/R and that is the 12v power to the relay.

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #277 on:** August 23, 2015, 05:23:28 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 23, 2015, 05:06:36 AM

Only TEC brand ignition parts if you value your hair

The START button is Yllw/Red wire coming from right. Coming off the solenoid, the YLLW/Red should have continuity to ground if you disconnect it from the harness. Pushing the button at the switch completes the Ground and allows power from the battery to transfer to the starter motor (the 2 studs on top). Your solenoid might also have a thin BLK wire beside the Y/R and that is the 12v power to the relay.

Awesome Cal thank you. On my 74 with the 77 motor the electric starter will not work unless the clutch is pulled in that why I ask about the clutch cancel system that all. The bike this motor came from was the same way with the clutch needing to be pulled for the starter to work. But i know this is a wiring thing not a engine thing. I thought I had read somewhere that you could make a jumper inside the headlight bucket to connect the two wires, thus bypassing this.

I ask because I am running a 74 harness with this 74 motor so I assumed it would be setup the same way as it was when I found it with the clutch to activate starter.

calj737 · « **Reply #278 on:** August 23, 2015, 05:28:30 AM »

The Clutch Safety Switch is Dk Grn/Red coming from LH switch, to RH, then back to the Starter Safety Motor.

I dint use the SSM, so I've never bypassed it. Here's the color diagram I use for a stock 74
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CB550.jpg

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #279 on:** August 23, 2015, 05:42:50 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 23, 2015, 05:28:30 AM

The Clutch Safety Switch is Dk Grn/Red coming from LH switch, to RH, then back to the Starter Safety Motor.

I dint use the SSM, so I've never bypassed it. Here's the color diagram I use for a stock 74
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CB550.jpg

Thanks man, Ill get in and look around! My plan is to rebuild the carbs this week the correct way and then see where we are after that. Did you watch the video by chance? Just curious if you had any input on that ticking strange noise or could that be related to only running on 2. Anxious as to what that may be since this motor had a top end rebuild. Really hope it nothing major.

calj737 · « **Reply #280 on:** August 23, 2015, 07:43:03 AM »

If it's only firing on 2 cylinders, I'd expect it to rattle like that. Until you have all 4 running, impossible to diagnose engine noise.

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #281 on:** August 23, 2015, 07:56:38 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 23, 2015, 07:43:03 AM

If it's only firing on 2 cylinders, I'd expect it to rattle like that. Until you have all 4 running, impossible to diagnose engine noise.

Ill get her on 4 and report back. I appreciate you being Patient with my questions!

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #282 on:** August 23, 2015, 09:43:44 AM »

Electric Starter working! Yellow wire was corroded behind the bullet connector as if it filled with water at some point and sat there. Simple trim back and replace connector. Thats one down

Stev-o · « **Reply #283 on:** August 23, 2015, 03:54:35 PM »

Good job. Next....

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #284 on:** August 23, 2015, 05:03:12 PM »

I think you're going to find Cal is right regarding 1 & 4 cylinders. I don't believe in coincidences very often so the fact that the 2 cylinders that share a spark from the same coil aren't working tells me there's a problem somewhere between the coil and the spark plug. Check to make sure the wires to the back of the coil are making solid connections. I SWORE that mine were right but then when I pulled them off to re-attach them, I realized that one of them had been pinched and was causing the short. Once I fixed that issue, those two cylinders started right up.

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #285 on:** August 24, 2015, 07:32:10 PM »

Found the front brake issue tonight, Seal is broken. Not sure how it happened but I can only assume it was during installation the lip of the piston must have grabbed it. Anyone have any tips for not repeating this process?

Stev-o · « **Reply #286 on:** August 24, 2015, 07:47:39 PM »

Have t seen that issue before, not sure how you did that?!

calj737 · « **Reply #287 on:** August 24, 2015, 08:31:47 PM »

First, make sure the groove is spotlessly clean. Lubricate the seal with brake fluid before installing. Then coat the piston too and push together. Slick is nice!

bryanj · « **Reply #288 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:30:40 AM »

Super clean, lots of fluid and a slow easy push. If it don't slide in real easy take it out and start again

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #289 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:19:51 PM »

Been in a bit of a rut recently between the front breaks and the motor this past few weeks, I had my Carbs rebuilt by a local shop who I should have gone to the first time. Fresh rebuild kits and fuel lines and they look great! This turned out to be the cause of only running on 2 cylinders. Good new is she's firing on all 4 now.

Bad news is that while starting the bike up to test everything I am again hearing the top end tapping noise. I am thinking its a valve hitting the top of the piston. Sounds like its the number 1 cylinder. From what I read this is most likely the cause or possibly the Cam Chain is loose but I doubt it. The carbs also need to be vacuums synced. I attached a video so you can try and hear the noise I'm talking about. Have not run it anymore since.....

And since I had everything available to do so, and was feeling down about the ticking noise and not being able to ride I decided to see what she would look like with everything back on

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #290 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:28:43 PM »

Wow!! Gorgeous bike!!!!

calj737 · « **Reply #291 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:29:10 PM »

Tyler - use the "Mechanics Stethoscope" and locate the noise. It could easily be an exhaust leak too. If your valves are properly adjusted, they're not hitting the piston. Especially at idle. That's nearly impossible with a half decent running motor by the way...

More likely cam chain, vacuum synch or an exhaust leak. But the screwdriver in your ear will tell you best which it is.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #292 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:30:00 PM »

It might just be a loose cam chain.

goldarrow · « **Reply #293 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:37:57 PM »

Check valve clearance again

bryanj · « **Reply #294 on:** September 07, 2015, 11:31:00 PM »

That sounds like exhaust gasket leak to me

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #295 on:** September 08, 2015, 07:49:19 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 07, 2015, 08:29:10 PM

Tyler - use the "Mechanics Stethoscope" and locate the noise. It could easily be an exhaust leak too. If your valves are properly adjusted, they're not hitting the piston. Especially at idle. That's nearly impossible with a half decent running motor by the way...

More likely cam chain, vacuum synch or an exhaust leak. But the screwdriver in your ear will tell you best which it is.

Cam chain is tight, and I replaced all the exhaust gaskets so I don't know how there could be a leak. I will check the valve clearance again though. Bike starts right up but that noise has me worried....

calj737 · « **Reply #296 on:** September 08, 2015, 08:01:14 PM »

Just because you replaced the gaskets, doesn't mean the flange is snug.

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #297 on:** September 08, 2015, 08:05:40 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 08, 2015, 08:01:14 PM

Just because you replaced the gaskets, doesn't mean the flange is snug.

that makes sense, Ill check that out tomorrow as well. Just sucks because Im so close and this is holding me back, but i would rather be careful and not mess something up inside the engine.

bryanj · « **Reply #298 on:** September 08, 2015, 10:29:54 PM »

I said it before, i sold a 550 and later fitted an aftermarket exhaust for the buyer, when he brought it back for a service i spent 2 hours repeatedly doing the tappet clearances to find that one exhaust flange just needed nipping up by about 1 turn on each nut( that had new gaskets as well)

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #299 on:** September 09, 2015, 09:41:37 AM »

Quote from: bryanj on September 08, 2015, 10:29:54 PM

I said it before, i sold a 550 and later fitted an aftermarket exhaust for the buyer, when he brought it back for a service i spent 2 hours repeatedly doing the tappet clearances to find that one exhaust flange just needed nipping up by about 1 turn on each nut( that had new gaskets as well)

Alright I'll check that out to!

News:

Author Topic: Two 550's and a 500. Home stretch now (Read 46819 times)