Topic: CB550 Safety inspection didn't go well....

[Peter From Barrie.]

Turns out....
-needs a new chain.
-fork seals.
-front disc pad (that's where the fork fluid ended up.
-head cover and shifter cover leaking oil. (Head is cracked, apparently)
-RH side pipe is hitting the frame.
All the lights, frame elements, brakes, rubber etc were good. Tech didn't even mention the leak from the oil filter cover.
I don't remember seeing any leakage from the areas flagged and it's not leaking a lot. I've had a clean drop pan under it since it's been in my garage 1-2 drops max.
With the exception of the head cover, I'm pretty sure I can do most of the required repairs. I've already found some pretty good pointers on this forum.
I don't remember seeing some of the mechanical snags on the Ontario checklist so I'm wondering:

-did I walk into a greedy mechanic?
-should I get a second opinion?
-is a head cover a death sentence for the bike? I. E. Costs more than the bike is worth.

Thanks as always.

Peter

[calj737]

Valve cover gaskets will leak after some time, and are easy to replace. The biggest trick is to loosen the rockers first, before removing the valve cover. This prevents bending a vale when removing.

(This is advice for a 550/500, not so necessary on the 750).

There's lots of places/reasons why valve covers leak. Post up some pictures if you can. That will help locate the sources. You can also clean the surrounding area well, then apply some tachometer power in the suspected areas, go for a quick ride to get the bike up to temp, then return to the garage to  locate the source.

[Gordon]

I'm not sure how things work in Ontario, but around here there are places that only do vehicle inspections.  As in they don't do any repairs.  I like these places because I don't have to worry about them trying to sell me any parts or services.  There's also a Yamaha dealer nearby I like to go to because they get me in and out quickly and they don't work on older bikes. 

[Peter From Barrie.]

Thanks for the reply Gordon.
I used these guys before for my suzuki and they were sticklers but passed my bike with a pinhole exhaust leak. I'll look around to see if there's an inspection only place.
I also just discovered "JB Weld" in one of the forums here. Things are looking rosy again!

[Peter From Barrie.]

Thanks, Cal!
The tech said the cover was cracked. It must be a small crack. I'll do as you say and pinpoint the location.
If I can (to your point ref the rockers) avoid doing a top rebuild so much the better).

I just got off the phone with the tech who safetied the bike 2 years ago (rode less than 500 miles since then). He says the mechanic I went to today is an "a•shat". I'm going to get the oil and other things done and let him sign off on it.
I love old bikes!
Peter

[Peter From Barrie.]

I'm reading up on JB Weld.
It sounds like an ideal quick fix. I'm sure the purists out there would frown on its use, but as a band aid to get me through this season. Any thoughts?
Again not for long term...
Peter

[Jimsun]

Im not sure how it will hold up with motorcycle vibration. Are you 100% its cracked? Any pictures. I live in toronto and I can give you a spare head cover gasket. I just finished my top end rebuild. Hoping to ride her soon

[Peter From Barrie.]

Thanks Jimsun, my fellow Canuck and Ontarian! I'll have pics later this week. As I've said, I find it hard to believe it's cracked and leaking enough to deny a safety with only a drop or two on the floor after a 2 hour ride and then sitting in the garage all night!
I'm reading mixed reviews on JB for motorcycle applications, some great some cr•p.
I'll clean 'er up, run it and try to see if/where the leak/crack is.
Thanks again!
Peter

[BobbyR]

JB if applied properly can be quite good and safe for non stress parts. Proper cleaning is essential. The worse that can happen is your leak come back.

[Peter From Barrie.]

Thanks Bobby.

[ekpent]

Glad we don't have to jump through all those hoops around here, especially on 40+ year old machines. Next they will be telling you which way to wipe with the toilet paper and charging for it 
  Michigan though is so hungry for money can see it happening sometime.

[Vinhead1957]

Don't be hard on the mechanic! He may save your life. Think more on the lines if something happens who would you blame then? You don't ride on the edge of safety with any bike! 

[750K]

I'm glad we don't have to do a safety inspection out here in bc if its already been registered in the province, the more I hear about the way things are in Ontario the more I'm glad I left it and moved out west.

[calj737]

There is "some" merit to failing a bike based upon an oil. Of course, it all depends on where it's leaking from, how bad it is, etc.

Peter, if you say it's leaked 2 drops on the floor sitting, then it's possible once at temp the leak may be more profuse. Certainly worth investigating. Oil leaking and working it's way to your threat tire is not good. Also, may be an environmental consideration under which it failed? Perhaps the Province is becoming more strict on these old dinosaurs in effort to replace them with electric bikes only....

Then again, maybe the inspector is Harley rider and he just failed it because he doesn't like the brand-

[BPellerine]

safety inspections are a hit and miss in Canada you can go to 3 diff places and get three diff results.the Honda dealer is the best in my area,even if the bike is not Honda,some will inspect a chop and some wont go figure !bill

[BobbyR]

Peter, let's cut to the chase on what is a have to do and a need to do notwithstanding all the environmental  silliness and going broke at the same time.

Fork seals have to be changed. You have to polish the tubes  or you are wasting your time. Use Honda OEM seals.   

You should not ride with an oil contaminated brake pad. Fix the seals, change the pads, you are 1/2 way done.

If you chain is rusty or has stiff link a busted chain will crack the case and if it whacks you in the leg, you will not be happy. If it is not still and rusted you can lube it and ride till you have the money for a new chain and sprockets.

We talked about JB to stop the leak in your cracked cover and using JB weld. To gauge the leak pull out the dipstick and take note of the oil level before you ride. Ride the bike and before you ride the next time, pull and check to see if the level went down. Ride safe brother.   

[Bankerdanny]

A replacement valve cover (not head cover, a cracked head would in fact be a major issue) would be very easy to find.

People part out frozen up CB550's all the time. The cost should be minimal, but I don't know the hassles of getting the part into Canada.

I think that the CB500 cover will also work on 550 engines up to 1976.

[lrutt]

I'd have to ask on the front brake...wouldn't you notice the total lack of stopping power if the pad was saturated with fork oil? Some of the other stuff could be subjective, but if you see oil all around the brake pads.. 

[fmctm1sw]

then apply some tachometer power in the suspected areas,

 

[70CB750]

safety inspections are a hit and miss in Canada you can go to 3 diff places and get three diff results.the Honda dealer is the best in my area,even if the bike is not Honda,some will inspect a chop and some wont go figure !bill

Same in Virginia, hit and miss.  Since I have my 86 Jeep inspected every year, I have seen it all.  Sometimes they want you to replace wipers - they notoriously suck on old jeeps - but cleaning them with alcohol pad before inspection helps.

Or they have problems with steering play and ask for tie rod replacement - like two years ago while my brake discs were 0.8 mm under the minimum thickness, he missed that. 

But the main reason he failed me last year was that the parking brake was not able to hold the jeep  - not rolling on its own, he actually applied the parking brake, put it in reverse and tried to back up.  I called him an idiot and went to different shop.

[calj737]

then apply some tachometer power in the suspected areas,

 

G-dang autocorrect!!! Nice catch, FMC .


I'm guessing, you don't have tach power in Your toolbox then? Kind of like electric smoke 

[Peter From Barrie.]

Gentlemen and scholars all! Sincere thanks!

An update:

The chain needed to be tensioned no frozen links - just loose. Tightened it to spec and rode it - no problems!

The problems with the fuel lines - replaced with properly routed and new lines.

There are a couple of missing bolts - been missing for a while judging by the amount of crud I had to remove...one in the head cover, the other the shifter/sprocket cover. They will be replaced. I have pics...

The pipes on the right side were hitting the swing arm when I drove over a bump. I put a 1" spacer in between the pipe and the frame. Fixed! (Strange the mechanic didn't pick that up...)

One of the rocker access ports looks like it is leaking. At some point the PO put some gunk on the threads to try to seal the leak. Didn't help. See pics. This issue is still outstanding and troublesome. I did ride the bike hard today for over an hour and measured the oil loss with the stick (unnoticeable) and by the spots on the ground (2) see picture!

The crack referred to previously does exist. It looks like a bolt lived there at some point.
See the pics. Funny thing is there is absolutely no oil coming from the 'crack'. Looks like it's gonna get JB welded as a temp fix...Btw, I did scope the crack, just aluminum behind.

Vinhead - not jamming the tech - just the process. I know the checks are there ostensibly for my/other users of the road safety. I just think that there was some nit picking going on. Nit picking that was quoted to me at the rate of $1800!!!!! to fix!

Cal - thanks as always. If the bike were leaking profusely, I'd sh*t-can it. As noted above, the leakage doesn't seem to be connected to heat expansion. It's a mystery. The leak is definitely coming from Cyl #1 head cover. I just can't figure out where! The red arrow on the pic Cyl Leak 2 looks like where the leak is (the circle under the phillips screw). Just not sure what the 'circle' is.

Bobby! Thanks and I agree 100%! The seals are going to get fixed and fixed with appropriate OEM parts. Already lined up a mechanic to do it. Just cranking on about getting b*tched out for the grips being a 'little' loose! (Btw, I glued the sumb*tches down and good!)

Bobby and Irutt, The brakes were spongy. Just not so spongy as to lead me to believe they were unsafe. If I cranked 'em down, the bike stopped. Funny enough, I drained and bled the brakes and thought maybe I muffed the bleed. The brake pad will be replaced.

Thanks all - the journey continues!

The pics ->

[Peter From Barrie.]

Crimped hose that was replaced. Right side of bike.

[Peter From Barrie.]

The thread sealer I found... From #1 Cylinder - exhaust side.

[Peter From Barrie.]

The area where the oil is showing up...#1 Cylinder - exhaust side.