Author Topic: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions  (Read 1840 times)

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Offline heyitsrama

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Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« on: August 09, 2014, 09:47:25 AM »
Howdy,

Just wanted someone to verify my work before i tighten the spokes up all the way, and start to true them.
Ran into an issue on the front wheel.Hows the lacing look so far? Its my first time?

I had a question about greasing the bearings as well, it has that cover around the bearings where the balls should be, should these be removed to be greased? I got a set of them from All-Balls for both the front and the rear, there was no instructions or anything like that..

Thanks y'all! hopefully ill get this running this week :D
tires and tubes are already here too :D

This was my first attempt at a rear wheel


But I have issues with the front because of the bends that the spoke needs to make? Should i just bend the sucker down? Buchanan spokes are too expensive to break  ::)



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72' cb500
I can't believe it's not butter.

Offline 01Thomas

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2014, 10:47:14 AM »
If the bend at the bottom of the spoke is wrong you have the wrong spoke in there. The Honda CB750 wheels each have 40 spokes. 20 of them have a 90° bend at the bottom and the other 20 have something like a 70° (?) bend at the bottom. The difference is the bends is easily discernable.
The 90°  spokes are the 'outer' spokes, being pushed through the flange from the centre of the hub and then it's quite easy to line them up with the holes in the rim.

It is adviseable to do the 'inner' spokes with the shallower bend first else you won't be able to get them in once the outer spokes are in place. And the nipples should only be fitted with two or so threads, until you have all the spokes in. That gives the whole wheel more flexibility and allows you to do the last few spokes with ease. I also smear the 'well' inside the rim (that depression where the spoke-holes are) liberally with grease - if nothing else it helps keep moisture out when the wheel is finally in use. The nipples get a good dose of antiseize down the threaded hole.

You should never have to bend a spoke to make it fit but you may have to flex it slightly. It should always spring back into it's original shape.

What's nice on our CB750/500/550/400/350s is that the rear and front wheels have the same spoke pattern, so you can use the one wheel as a reference for the other. The front wheel is generally easier because the spokes are longer and there is more 'give' in them.

Cheers
Thomas
1971 Honda CB750 Four K1 [Engine: CB750E-1113521 / Frame: CB750-1113838]
1977 Seeley Honda CB750F (F1) [Engine: CB750E-2551214 / Frame No: SH7-655F]

'96 Yamaha YZF750SP & '81 Moto Guzzi SP1000 & '80 Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans II & '82 Bimota KB-3 [Frame No 49] & '66 Ducati 50 SL/1 & '53 Miele K-50 & '38 Miele 98

Offline 01Thomas

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2014, 10:55:29 AM »
Oh, and if your bearings have rubber seals or metal shields covering the balls they are sealed-for-life bearings and need not be regreased. Removing the shields or seals will damage them - trust me on this!
These bearing are relatively cheap and if you have any doubts about their lifespan it's usually a good idea to just replace them.

cheers
Thomas (who has just stripped/chromed the rim/nickelled the spokes/rebuilt both 750 K1 wheels).
1971 Honda CB750 Four K1 [Engine: CB750E-1113521 / Frame: CB750-1113838]
1977 Seeley Honda CB750F (F1) [Engine: CB750E-2551214 / Frame No: SH7-655F]

'96 Yamaha YZF750SP & '81 Moto Guzzi SP1000 & '80 Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans II & '82 Bimota KB-3 [Frame No 49] & '66 Ducati 50 SL/1 & '53 Miele K-50 & '38 Miele 98

Offline heyitsrama

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2014, 11:57:52 AM »
Thomas does the lacing look correct for the rear wheel that I completed? I'll pull then redo all the spokes after i fix the axel on my car right now. thanks for the advise   :D
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72' cb500
I can't believe it's not butter.

Offline 01Thomas

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2014, 01:04:51 PM »
Yes it looks right from here. I usually start off at the valve hole. I generally put a piece of tape over the valve hole to make it easy to spot and then go in one direction from there.

Now for your next wheel!

cheers
Thomas
1971 Honda CB750 Four K1 [Engine: CB750E-1113521 / Frame: CB750-1113838]
1977 Seeley Honda CB750F (F1) [Engine: CB750E-2551214 / Frame No: SH7-655F]

'96 Yamaha YZF750SP & '81 Moto Guzzi SP1000 & '80 Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans II & '82 Bimota KB-3 [Frame No 49] & '66 Ducati 50 SL/1 & '53 Miele K-50 & '38 Miele 98

Offline Steve_K

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2014, 01:32:46 PM »
On these older bikes, I have found that replacing wheel bearings make them easier to roll.  I had 2 550s at one time that I changed the bearings in one and when I compared it to my other 550, the new bearings made it much easier to push.
Easy to do and grease does wear out with use and time.
Steve
Steve_K

76 CB 550, 73CB750, 86 GSX-R750, 16 Slingshot
Old rides:305 Honda, CL350, 74 CB550
 05 SV1000S, 88 CBR600,92 VFR, 88 Hawk GT, 96 Ducati 900SS, 98 Kaw ZX6R, SV650

Offline heyitsrama

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2014, 07:57:27 PM »
alright, so making good progress, but just wanted to check what is up with my front rim, it seems that the spokes don't fit correctly, or perhaps my lacing is off? When i look at the wheel there seems to be too much spacing around the top of the spokes and the nipples.


While my lacing looks like
_____________________________________________________________________________
72' cb500
I can't believe it's not butter.

Offline Stoli

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2014, 03:45:28 AM »
What size rim? Buchanan's has been known to have sizing and bend issues with non standard size rims but their stock kits usually fit perfectly. In your case, I think your pattern is off on your front. Rear looks good.

Look through this thread for guidance:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=368

The above thread shows a rear wheel so hunt around for a good side view of a front and you'll see what I mean.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2014, 03:51:11 AM by Stoli »
My Project Threads:
Project #1 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=117106.0  First bike
Project #2 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=127364.0  Something different
Project #3 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=123831.0  Long and Low

Offline Mini Mo

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2014, 08:26:29 AM »
Like Stoli says, check out the link.

Your spokes need to rotate to the next set of holes. In other words they need more angle, a wider V.
750 K1 (Just finished)
750 K4 (In Process of resto)
2) 750 K6's (Restored and sold)
750 K5 (Restored and sold)
'75 850 Norton Commando (Restored and sold)
'99 Triumph Tiger (Daily rider)

Offline MCRider

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2014, 08:59:20 AM »
You have laced the front wheel to a cross 2 pattern. As others have said, spread the anglle out. Each spoke should cross 3 other spokes.

The rear is a cross 2; front cross 3.

Pick any outside spoke. Start at the hub and follow it out to the rim. It should cross 3 inside spokes.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2014, 09:01:18 AM by MCRider »
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1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
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Offline oldhatt45

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Re: Wheel Lacing and Bearing questions
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2014, 01:47:44 PM »
heyitsrama,

I just went thru a very similar problem.
Take a look at my build thread (after my signature line) on page 3 pretty close to the bottom.
I think I explained what to look for and how to figure it out.