Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[DaveBarbier]

I can confirm that from 1500 rpm and higher I get a steady 14,8V on the AUX from the mUnit.
My conclusion is that the mUnit gives what it receives on it’s own input. No regulation or stabilizing function there.

Thanks Herbert, that’s what I suspected although yours is still higher than mine. I purchased the new Rick’s reg/rec designed for LiFe batteries with a lower set point (14 volts +-.2 volts. And I bought one of the dc converters Paul at C5 recommends. The same one pictured above for $15. I’ll wire them up and report back!

[h.lanooy]

I can confirm that from 1500 rpm and higher I get a steady 14,8V on the AUX from the mUnit.
My conclusion is that the mUnit gives what it receives on it’s own input. No regulation or stabilizing function there.

Thanks Herbert, that’s what I suspected although yours is still higher than mine. I purchased the new Rick’s reg/rec designed for LiFe batteries with a lower set point (14 volts +-.2 volts. And I bought one of the dc converters Paul at C5 recommends. The same one pictured above for $15. I’ll wire them up and report back!

I'm running the stock rec/reg, so the values I'm seeing are stock to my knowledge. I'm confident that with the stabilizer I won't have troubles in the future.
My problems started early on because I didn't follow Paul's instructions careful enough. I wasn't getting a tach signal from the dedicated signal cable from the plate. Because of this I tried getting a signal from one of the triggers of a coil. That was stupid. The coil immediately swelled up because of this. Like Paul says, follow the instructions to the letter. I wouldn't have issues if I did.

I'm confident it will solve your problems too.

[h.lanooy]

I can confirm that from 1500 rpm and higher I get a steady 14,8V on the AUX from the mUnit.
My conclusion is that the mUnit gives what it receives on it’s own input. No regulation or stabilizing function there.

Thanks Herbert, that’s what I suspected although yours is still higher than mine. I purchased the new Rick’s reg/rec designed for LiFe batteries with a lower set point (14 volts +-.2 volts. And I bought one of the dc converters Paul at C5 recommends. The same one pictured above for $15. I’ll wire them up and report back!

I'm running the stock rec/reg, so the values I'm seeing are stock to my knowledge. I'm confident that with the stabilizer I won't have troubles in the future.
My problems started early on because I didn't follow Paul's instructions careful enough. I wasn't getting a tach signal from the dedicated signal cable from the plate. Because of this I tried getting a signal from one of the triggers of a coil. That was stupid. The coil immediately swelled up because of this. Like Paul says, follow the instructions to the letter. I wouldn't have issues if I did.

I'm confident it will solve your problems too.

Curious about what settings in the MotoScope you used to read triple fired coils? That’s been an issue with C5 compatibility for the MotoG instruments.

It didn’t work! The problem is that the signal wite from the C5 plate gets down to about 4V when there is no trigger. This was enough difference for a stock ZXR400 rpm gauge to work. The motoscope didn’t react to it. The motoscope wants the signal to drop further. The solution came with a simple circuit using transistor to force a drop to 0V.  I posted the diagram somewhere on the forum.

[h.lanooy]

The solution for the C5 PowerArc ignition in combination with Motogadget gauges.

PowerArc with Motogadget Motoscope problem
 https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=13548&share_tid=159343&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums%2Esohc4%2Enet%2Findex%2Ephp%3Ftopic%3D159343&share_type=t

[DaveBarbier]

Hmm, my Chronoclassic works just fine. I would assume they trigger the same way...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hmm, my Chronoclassic works just fine. I would assume they trigger the same way...

Glad to hear that. I’m going to run a Chronoclassic Dark.

[DaveBarbier]

Hmm, my Chronoclassic works just fine. I would assume they trigger the same way...

Glad to hear that. I’m going to run a Chronoclassic Dark.

I got the same one, no issues...except for the moisture inside... Motogadget wants me to ride around and see if it clears up on it’s own :|

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hmm, my Chronoclassic works just fine. I would assume they trigger the same way...

Glad to hear that. I’m going to run a Chronoclassic Dark.

I got the same one, no issues...except for the moisture inside... Motogadget wants me to ride around and see if it clears up on it’s own :|

Wow!!  That sucker should be sealed. When Buz Ras (Seattle Speedometer) customizes them, he reseals them in an argon chamber.

[DaveBarbier]

Hmm, my Chronoclassic works just fine. I would assume they trigger the same way...

Glad to hear that. I’m going to run a Chronoclassic Dark.

I got the same one, no issues...except for the moisture inside... Motogadget wants me to ride around and see if it clears up on it’s own :|

Wow!!  That sucker should be sealed. When Buz Ras (Seattle Speedometer) customizes them, he reseals them in an argon chamber.

Tell me about it. This is the second time it’s happened. The first time I sent it to Germany and they “fixed it” and sent it back.

[DaveBarbier]

Small update. Got the new Rick’s reg/rec and the 12v converter from Paul at C5. This is what he recommends now for the specs of the converter.


I’ll share my wiring diagram once I wire it all up, but the converter is going to be powered off the battery with a fuse then it’s going to power the ignition plate and the coils. The converter itself will essentially be on switched power. A relay will be in there using the AUX of the m-Unit to switch it on. Unsure if I’ll put the relay on the main power to the converter or if I’ll have it only on the power feed to the ignition as Paul recommends. That’ll keep the coils powered constantly and only have the ignition on switched power. I’m leaning towards what Paul recommends.

I’m making a new electronic box and ordered a bunch of stuff from CycleTerminal.com. Micro solid state relays, fuses, terminals, etc.  Love that site.

Welded a small bracket on the bottom frame rail under the swingarm to mount the new reg/rec and converter. Here it is mocked up. Yes, I painted the converter black to help hide it. It was bare cast aluminum. I want the new electronic box I’m going to use to be less cluttered. Plus there’s much more airflow here.


Does anyone know what kind of flexible epoxy stuff they use in electronics for vibration damping? Like, the back of Rick’s reg/rec is black glossy rubbery stuff they seem to pour into the casting after they wire it all up. I want that stuff, seems very handy. AvE calls it “selastic” or something, but he makes up words all the time.

Also I bought a new starter solenoid from a Yamaha something or other. It has the main fuse built in with connections so it’s a more compact unit. Revival Cycles sells something like that but it’s probably made in China which is a copy off a Yamaha unit so I got the OEM version made in Japan.

[Nicklopic]

When you get it, could you get some dimensions of it? I was looking at those for mine but I only have about 1.75" of height that I can play with and I can't find the physical size of one.
Visually it looks like it'll be too tall so I'll probably just end up with my rotated stock one as planned but if I can simplify things more and make it cleaner in my tray I like it.

[RAFster122s]

Dave, drop an email or PM to HondaMan, Mark pots his electronic ignitions and a few other circuit designs in the potting epoxy. He could give you the name of what he uses or the proper terms and properties to look for in a potting epoxy.

David M

[DaveBarbier]

When you get it, could you get some dimensions of it? I was looking at those for mine but I only have about 1.75" of height that I can play with and I can't find the physical size of one.
Visually it looks like it'll be too tall so I'll probably just end up with my rotated stock one as planned but if I can simplify things more and make it cleaner in my tray I like it.

Yeah, totally. That was one of the things I was concerned about and why I’m making a new electronics tray in the first place. I should get it by the weekend so I’ll post dimensions soon.

[DaveBarbier]

Dave, drop an email or PM to HondaMan, Mark pots his electronic ignitions and a few other circuit designs in the potting epoxy. He could give you the name of what he uses or the proper terms and properties to look for in a potting epoxy.

David M

Thanks Dave, actually “potting epoxy” just about does it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Here's the link to the Revival unit:  https://shop.revivalcycles.com/universal-starter-solenoid-with-main-fuse/

Dave: do you have a part number for the Yamaha unit?

[DaveBarbier]

Here's the link to the Revival unit:  https://shop.revivalcycles.com/universal-starter-solenoid-with-main-fuse/

Dave: do you have a part number for the Yamaha unit?

3EL-81940-01-00

There’s actually like 20 different part numbers for this thing. I searched half of them and didn’t see any actual differences. Not sure if Yamaha has different part numbers for the same part if they’re on a different bike...

[DaveBarbier]

That kit Revival sells is good, nothing wrong with it. But the waterproof connector that they have for it adds a lot of height/width/depth...whichever way you have it oriented. And for my bike, I don’t need that kind of waterproofing. Yamaha itself only has the terminals individually connected to the pins, no big block connector.

[Nicklopic]

They might be supercisions or something stupid like that. I did parts at a heavy truck dealership for a little and I swear there were sometimes like 7  different supercisions just to get to a valid and available number.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Here's the link to the Revival unit:  https://shop.revivalcycles.com/universal-starter-solenoid-with-main-fuse/

Dave: do you have a part number for the Yamaha unit?

3EL-81940-01-00

There’s actually like 20 different part numbers for this thing. I searched half of them and didn’t see any actual differences. Not sure if Yamaha has different part numbers for the same part if they’re on a different bike...

And it's a quarter of the price of the Revival unit.

[DaveBarbier]

Here's the link to the Revival unit:  https://shop.revivalcycles.com/universal-starter-solenoid-with-main-fuse/

Dave: do you have a part number for the Yamaha unit?

3EL-81940-01-00

There’s actually like 20 different part numbers for this thing. I searched half of them and didn’t see any actual differences. Not sure if Yamaha has different part numbers for the same part if they’re on a different bike...

And it's a quarter of the price of the Revival unit.

The part I ordered was $50. Genuine Yamaha. There are others on eBay that are aftermarket and cheap...like ~$15 cheap. So I spent more money than the Revival kit considering I only got the starter but I’ll pay for a good quality unit.

It says it was delivered so I’ll try and get some measurements tonight when I get home.

[DaveBarbier]

Dimensions of the Yamaha 3EL-81940-02 starter solenoid are as follows:

1.973” (50mm) x 1.814” (46mm) x 1.636” (41.5mm)

You can reduce the last dimension to 1.514” (38.5mm) if you cut off the little tab in the back by the terminal pins.



Very nice unit, I’m not surprised. I also wasn’t totally sure, but the left fuse is the working fuse and the right fuse is a spare. And wow, it actually comes with fuses.

[Nicklopic]

That's definitely a nice little unit from the looks of it. Looks to be a little too large to work in my tray. For now, ill just use the stock solenoid. I have plenty of room surprisingly
P.S thank you for the measurements!

[DaveBarbier]

Ready for the dyno! I’ll call up Rick Stetson at Harry’s Machined Parts this week and talk about scheduling a time. I have to get the electrical stuff done first though...maybe this weekend.

Current Jetting:
YY6 needles - 4th clip
105 Mains
42 Pilots
220 Main Air Jets

I have a lot of room to go in either direction, hope we can get it in a good spot.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Ready for the dyno! I’ll call up Rick Stetson at Harry’s Machined Parts this week and talk about scheduling a time. I have to get the electrical stuff done first though...maybe this weekend.

Current Jetting:
YY6 needles - 4th clip
105 Mains
42 Pilots
220 Main Air Jets

I have a lot of room to go in either direction, hope we can get it in a good spot.

Holy smokes, you are loaded for bear!

[DaveBarbier]

Damn straight. Got everything from Mike at PowerBarn.com. Great guy and very reasonable prices. All Keihin and fast shipping. Highly recommended.