Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[calj737]

I have seen that. But that's not how and why I know. I'm older than you might realize, and Dave did warn you about getting one bad side. He's obviously heard the stories-

[DaveBarbier]

I have seen that. But that's not how and why I know. I'm older than you might realize, and Dave did warn you about getting one bad side. He's obviously heard the stories-

Got to be mafia ties, haha. You guys better be careful or you'll be waking up in your bed next to the front end of a SOHC4.

On another note, no shims needed. Got it timed just now and it was WAY easier than with the Daiichi ones. Both 1-4 and 2-3 are rock solid between the advance marks. They're a little advanced, couple of degrees at idle, but it still idles well.

Long live TEC.

[RAFster122s]

I have a Yamaha R6/FZ6 front-end that needs the hub work done for it to find a home on a 550. (A la FunJimmy style) the FZ6 had handlebars, so the regular RSU forks on R6 can fit the FZ6 top triple and have handlebars on a retrofit.

So, I have had many parts in my bed but, I don't think the front-end made it there.

Would be quite the gift.

(I understand the joke)

[Retro Rocket]

I have seen that. But that's not how and why I know. I'm older than you might realize, and Dave did warn you about getting one bad side. He's obviously heard the stories-

Filleting fish don't count Cal....

[calj737]

Filleting a phish is far different than gutting a fish, Mick. I've done both plenty 

After a few strokes with a Kershaw, there's more net weight meat hanging in the icebox than stood on a hoof, or swam in the sea. I've been told by buddies, I work so fast that they're clean before they're dead 

[Retro Rocket]

Yes, done more than my fair share of filleting fish, its all about the blade...

[DaveBarbier]

Headlight is still going out! Is my ground not good enough? I don't smell any burning wires but after about a two hour ride my buddy looks back and sees that it's out. Any ideas for me to check?

[DaveBarbier]

Also, on my way home just now I blew my main fuse. Thank god I already got up the hill right by my house.

Battery is charged up to 13.91 volts.

And it's just the low beam. But that I think is just because that's what I had on. I assume after a while if I had my high beam on that would blow too.

[RAFster122s]

Might have a short in the harness.  With a good digital vom check the resistance of the ground wire and see if the connections are good. Then see what the resistance is between the negative terminal and the end of your ground wire.

Are you seeing good voltage at the headlamp.  I would suspect that your regulator is letting the voltage go too high blowing the low beam. Halogen bulbs don't tolerate overvoltage too well.

You can take a lighter gauge wire to get your voltage reading outside the headlamp bucket in a spare connector or just use some brass tubing the probes are a snug fit. Cover the positive vom probe so you are not risking an accident if your positive connections hits the bike's metal.

[calj737]

Also, on my way home just now I blew my main fuse. Thank god I already got up the hill right by my house. stock harness and wiring, Dave?

Battery is charged up to 13.91 volts. so that's a tad high 

Headlight is still going out! Is my ground not good enough? I don't smell any burning wires but after about a two hour ride my buddy looks back and sees that it's out. Any ideas for me to check?

Of course, start with the fuse itself. Is it the correct Amperage? Is your wiring stock? What is the Wattage rating of that unit (curiosity only?)

[DaveBarbier]

Also, on my way home just now I blew my main fuse. Thank god I already got up the hill right by my house. stock harness and wiring, Dave?

Battery is charged up to 13.91 volts. so that's a tad high 

Headlight is still going out! Is my ground not good enough? I don't smell any burning wires but after about a two hour ride my buddy looks back and sees that it's out. Any ideas for me to check?

Of course, start with the fuse itself. Is it the correct Amperage? Is your wiring stock? What is the Wattage rating of that unit (curiosity only?)

Stock wiring harness but with modifications. I rewired the back half of the bike when I was making the battery box under the seat. Stock colors and new connectors from CycleTerminal.com

I'm also using a Shorai LFX14A2. Is 13.91v a little high? From Shawn at Shorai: "Please verify the charging system output measures 13.6-14.4V at the battery when the engine is running at a high idle (~2000rpm).   The charging system should not drop below 13.1V or above 15.2V at any rpm."

Now, my battery did just go to about 7 volts last week when I was trying to time the sh*t Daiichi points. I charged it back up full and it didn't seem like it was damaged, could be wrong though. But I've been having the bulb blowing problem for the last few weeks.

Yup, correct fuse (15amp). What's the wattage rating of the unit? You mean the bulb? It's a 55/60 watt H4.

I've been considering one of the Cognitomoto 20/30 watt LED bulbs for less of a draw.

[calj737]

Distinction: battery reads 13.91v off the meter, or, reads that while bike is charging?

[DaveBarbier]

Ah yes, I see the difference. Battery read 13.91v while resting. At idle it's about the same, maybe a little less...like 13.7. At about 6k RPM it seems to cap at 14.8volts.

Also measured the resistance of the ground wire from where the headlight bulb connects to back to the negative terminal and I'm reading 00.0-00.1 ohms. Good ground, yeah?

[calj737]

Ground appears fine. Battery is overcharging though. Shouldn't see more than 14.4v normally, though it can take up to 14.8v. Stock Regulator or did you swap for a Ricks?

[DaveBarbier]

Ground appears fine. Battery is overcharging though. Shouldn't see more than 14.4v normally, though it can take up to 14.8v. Stock Regulator or did you swap for a Ricks?

Swapped for Ricks. Oh, and I forgot to say that I found why my main fuse was blowing. A worn wire to the key switch was shorting on the steering neck. Fixed that. That wouldn't have anything to do with the headlight issue, would it? I don't really see how. I think it's an isolated issue that just started happening yesterday.

[calj737]

Well, if you've got a bare wire shorting out the main fuse, it would not surprise me to see other circuits tied thru the key blowing.

From your Ricks, there's a loose BLK wire that is the 12v sensing wire. Where is it connected? I'd like you to take a meter reading of the battery (resting voltage) and check that BLK wire connection. Compare those 2 readings. Often, the R/R reads a lower voltage due to resistance thru the connectors and harness than the battery actually has. This can cause overcharging of the battery because the R/R falsely believes the battery is lower than it is. Make sense?

[DaveBarbier]

Well, if you've got a bare wire shorting out the main fuse, it would not surprise me to see other circuits tied thru the key blowing.

From your Ricks, there's a loose BLK wire that is the 12v sensing wire. Where is it connected? I'd like you to take a meter reading of the battery (resting voltage) and check that BLK wire connection. Compare those 2 readings. Often, the R/R reads a lower voltage due to resistance thru the connectors and harness than the battery actually has. This can cause overcharging of the battery because the R/R falsely believes the battery is lower than it is. Make sense?

Key on resting voltage, right? Battery is 12.8v sensing wire is 12.46v. Is cleaning my connectors in my future?

That black sensing wire is connected into a dual connector that goes into the main harness. Tied into the winker relay, rear stop switch, horn, etc. It's hooked up the same way as the stock unit. Does that answer your question?

[DaveBarbier]

I'm looking through my connectors and I see quite a few have corrosion already. I crimped and soldered these connections. I'm thinking I may have not completely burned off all the flux and that could be causing corrosion. I probably should have bought the crimper and just crimped as others have recommended. Any good way of cleaning these things? Small brass brush and electric cleaner?

[calj737]

That .5v isn't the end of the world until you get to the upper limit of the charging profile. I'd rather see a .1v difference personally, but, by the time you run through the stock connectors etc .5v is reasonable.

Realize: RED brings power from the battery, thru the fuse, then to the KEY. BLK is switched at the key, and all its travels and connections occur before you start grabbing a reading off it. If you have any charging problems in the near future, I'd reconnect the sensing wire closer to the key switch with a custom connection. This way, you're only losing the voltage thru the key before you start regulating it.

A .17 caliber rifle brush available at a sporting goods store, some Electrical cleaner spray, and some dielectric grease ought to be in your tool box. Brings them up shiny and bright 

[DaveBarbier]

That .5v isn't the end of the world until you get to the upper limit of the charging profile. I'd rather see a .1v difference personally, but, by the time you run through the stock connectors etc .5v is reasonable.

Realize: RED brings power from the battery, thru the fuse, then to the KEY. BLK is switched at the key, and all its travels and connections occur before you start grabbing a reading off it. If you have any charging problems in the near future, I'd reconnect the sensing wire closer to the key switch with a custom connection. This way, you're only losing the voltage thru the key before you start regulating it.

A .17 caliber rifle brush available at a sporting goods store, some Electrical cleaner spray, and some dielectric grease ought to be in your tool box. Brings them up shiny and bright 

So, are you saying that this might not be my problem as that I should be looking elsewhere for the headlight blowing problem?

All's I got is a 9 and 45, dang. I'll go grab a couple of those brushes, sounds perfect.

I'm cleaning a few connectors now just because I'm here. I totally see what you're saying about moving the sensing wire. I'll probably end up doing that anyway this week. I can tap it right into the new connector for the key switch.

[DaveBarbier]

If you have any charging problems in the near future, I'd reconnect the sensing wire closer to the key switch with a custom connection. This way, you're only losing the voltage thru the key before you start regulating it.

Just measured the voltage up at the key switch and it's pretty much exactly the same voltage as the battery. Thanks for this tip, I'll definitely move the sensing wire up there. I have a key switch saver relay so that's my black wire, hope that's not an issue.

EDIT: Oh, and I've been looking at the M-Unit and drooling. I might bite the bullet and get one soon. It seems so easy and that way I'd completely redo the wiring on the bike and make sure everything is perfect. Simplicity is a huge part of reliability in my opinion.

[DaveBarbier]

Ok, so I'm definitely doing the M-Unit. I can't take it anymore, watching videos and looking at beautiful wiring is killing me. My plan is to keep all electrical components – blinkers, horn, etc. I wanted to redo the wiring completely from scratch. With the M-Unit is this a tall order?

I'd like to get new wire (maybe the wiring kit from Motogadget?) and also the M-Button for more of a clutter free environment. Thoughts?

What about switches? I'd like to use the Motogadget stuff but they're pretty expensive. Any other nice switches you guys recommend?

[calj737]

If you switch to an m-unit, you want to re-wire (as you plan). The m-button is nice, but unnecessary. All the wires coming from your stock handlebar controls (if you want to keep them) run straight to the m-unit. You can essentially eliminate all wiring into the headlight bucket except for the H4 plug.

I buy and use wiring from McMaster. It's 18AWG for current carrying circuits, and I use 22awg for control circuits. It's cheaper and easier.

You still need your starter solenoid, but you can eliminate the starter safety motor as its already internal to the m-unit. Plus the Winker relay.

Your stock key switch can be reduced to only a RED wire and the BLACK. Brown and BR/WHT go bye-bye.

From your controls, wire runs straight to left side of m-unit. Output from m-unit right side is all switched 12v so that wiring goes straight to the component its controlling (brake light, headlight, turns, etc...). Super simple.

You do not need a momentary button to control the m-unit. This is only during setup, and a simple ground jumper wire is the DIY workaround.

I run all my wires inside plastic braided sleeving instead of solid sheathing for simplicity. Some heat shrink, solder, and decent crumpets and you're good to go.

What you waiting on? 

[madmtnmotors]

I'm looking through my connectors and I see quite a few have corrosion already. I crimped and soldered these connections. I'm thinking I may have not completely burned off all the flux and that could be causing corrosion. I probably should have bought the crimper and just crimped as others have recommended. Any good way of cleaning these things? Small brass brush and electric cleaner?

Plus one on the double crimp tool. According to Hondaman, the double crimp is a "gas tight" connection and is corrosion resistant due to the fact that the connection is so tight that corrosive elements can't even get into the crimp:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494


I can refurbish the entire stock harness in about two weeks, working evenings and weekends:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

[DaveBarbier]

I think I will do the m-button just because it'll really cut down on wire clutter. I kinda want to do a complete 180. I won't be keeping the stock controls, I'll try and find some nice small switches. It seems like the m-unit really shines with momentary switches.

As for the McMaster wiring, do you have your own color scheme you use or do you try to keep the stock colors? I kind of don't know where to begin. Aside from buying the m-unit first I guess and making a wiring diagram?