Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Funny, I just PM'd him about it.  No, no website, just and ebay store, email and phone to call.
truenetwholesale@gmail.com
Joe (248) 219-6071

[Restoration Fan]

Thanks, Don.

[DaveBarbier]

Dave,
Do you have a website for TruNet Wholesale?

Ron

Just updated that post to put in a link. Duh, I'm stupid for not putting that in in the first place, haha.

[jdizon]

I bought my m-unit for 299.00 plus free expedited shipping from AJCYCLES in NY. Customer service is great. Got my unit in 3 days from NY to CA. Site: http://www.ajcyclesny.com/

Finally got my m-Unit, and two m-Switches. They're really beautifully made. The m-unit is heavier than I thought it would be. It has a nice weight to it that makes it feel like a quality piece. I got my stuff from TruNetWholesale, cheapest place I found. They have an eBay presence but I went through them directly.

Here's their eBay store:
http://ebay.to/1UvHWHy

And email:
truenetwholesale@gmail.com

[DaveBarbier]

I bought my m-unit for 299.00 plus free expedited shipping from AJCYCLES in NY. Customer service is great. Got my unit in 3 days from NY to CA.

Finally got my m-Unit, and two m-Switches. They're really beautifully made. The m-unit is heavier than I thought it would be. It has a nice weight to it that makes it feel like a quality piece. I got my stuff from TruNetWholesale, cheapest place I found. They have an eBay presence but I went through them directly.

Here's their eBay store:
http://ebay.to/1UvHWHy

And email:
truenetwholesale@gmail.com

That's a good price! Not sure what I paid for mine because it was one price for three items. I got the m-unit, 2 button m-switch and a 3 button m-switch for $480 shipped.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

AJ's prices on ebay are pretty much the same as TruNet, but the AJ website is about $10 cheaper!

[DaveBarbier]

AJ's prices on ebay are pretty much the same as TruNet, but the AJ website is about $10 cheaper!

I can't even find their website. Link?
I see a site that Ivey be theirs, but I see no Motogadget stuff, nor on eBay for them.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

http://www.ajcyclesny.com/#!motogadget/c1s7r

[DaveBarbier]

Dave - before you go too far with the switches, test fit them around the bars. I've found in most of them, the interior edges need to be relieved a bit to get the two pieces to fit flush. Seems the anodizing is either very thick, of most of the bars I've installed them on are heavily plated.

Also, pay attention to the o-ring under the switch and use a dab of Blue LocTite once the switch is aligned.

Yeah, I noticed that the ID of the switches are a hair smaller than the OD of the bar. I'll have to sand or file them a bit.

And yup, in the manual it says to use blue loctite. Any other tips and tricks are very welcome. I'm hoping to get this finished this weekend.

[DaveBarbier]

Question: In my diagram I have two fuses. The reg/rec–battery and the starter–m-unit. Reg/rec wire is small enough to use a normal inline blade fuse holder but the m-unit wire is, what looks to be, 8awg-ish. All I can think of to use are those car audio plastic encased fuse holders which use glass fuses. Is that what I should be using?

And Cal, if you don't mind, can you post or direct me to a picture of your wired up m-unit? I just want to see how things are terminated, sheathed, screwed, etc.

[DaveBarbier]

I ran my m-unit power directly to the battery POS with an inline. And I used 10awg for the power and ground wires on the m-unit.

I've done it a few different ways. Tinned the ends and stuck them in the terminals; I've used the included crimped ends and then screwed those down, and I've even used the crimps and heat shrink. I'm fickle I guess...

Here's some pictures of some I have done:

Yeah I wanted to use the ferrules with heat shrink to the m-unit connections but I didn't want to buy another crimper. I'll just tin, heat shrink and screw them down.

As I see yours I'll probably do the same and run both POS and NEG directly to the battery from the m-unit and I'll pick up one of those inline car amplifier fuses if I can find a 15amp one somewhere.

Cool, thanks that helps a lot. I'll still have to rethink as I go based on where I can route wires but I have a pretty good idea now.

[jdizon]

I ran my m-unit power directly to the battery POS with an inline. And I used 10awg for the power and ground wires on the m-unit.

I've done it a few different ways. Tinned the ends and stuck them in the terminals; I've used the included crimped ends and then screwed those down, and I've even used the crimps and heat shrink. I'm fickle I guess...

Here's some pictures of some I have done:

Yeah I wanted to use the ferrules with heat shrink to the m-unit connections but I didn't want to buy another crimper. I'll just tin, heat shrink and screw them down.

As I see yours I'll probably do the same and run both POS and NEG directly to the battery from the m-unit and I'll pick up one of those inline car amplifier fuses if I can find a 15amp one somewhere.

Cool, thanks that helps a lot. I'll still have to rethink as I go based on where I can route wires but I have a pretty good idea now.

Hey man was planning to use your wiring diagram as reference. Maybe you should update and repost the revised version with the changes mentioned!


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[DaveBarbier]

I ran my m-unit power directly to the battery POS with an inline. And I used 10awg for the power and ground wires on the m-unit.

I've done it a few different ways. Tinned the ends and stuck them in the terminals; I've used the included crimped ends and then screwed those down, and I've even used the crimps and heat shrink. I'm fickle I guess...

Here's some pictures of some I have done:

Yeah I wanted to use the ferrules with heat shrink to the m-unit connections but I didn't want to buy another crimper. I'll just tin, heat shrink and screw them down.

As I see yours I'll probably do the same and run both POS and NEG directly to the battery from the m-unit and I'll pick up one of those inline car amplifier fuses if I can find a 15amp one somewhere.

Cool, thanks that helps a lot. I'll still have to rethink as I go based on where I can route wires but I have a pretty good idea now.

Hey man was planning to use your wiring diagram as reference. Maybe you should update and repost the revised version with the changes mentioned!

I'll definitely do that. But I might wait until I wire it up this weekend. Then it'll reflect any other changes I come up with.

[jdizon]

Right on man! Thank you and sorry for the thread high jack.


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[DaveBarbier]

Right on man! Thank you and sorry for the thread high jack.


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No problem at all. I don't consider that a hijack, haha.

[DaveBarbier]

Wiring day today. Starting with the switches. I actually didn't have the shave down the m-switches at all. They fit really well on the bars.

Drilled holes in the bars and tried to get all the burrs out but it's not easy–still sharp corners. I took pieces of tubing, heated it up and shoved it in. Then trimmed the excess and heated and formed it around the hole. Should work nice to prevent abrasion.



Here's how the switches will look on the inside.

[RAFster122s]

Not big enough for a grommet in the hole?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Wiring day today. Starting with the switches. I actually didn't have the shave down the m-switches at all. They fit really well on the bars.

Drilled holes in the bars and tried to get all the burrs out but it's not easy–still sharp corners. I took pieces of tubing, heated it up and shoved it in. Then trimmed the excess and heated and formed it around the hole. Should work nice to prevent abrasion.



Here's how the switches will look on the inside.

I like the idea for a make-shift grommet.  I'm copying that somewhere down the road!

[DaveBarbier]

Not big enough for a grommet in the hole?

None that I have, no. It's about a 5mm hole. A regular grommet would have been nicer but I didn't feel like trying to find one at the hardware store. Laziness is the mother of invention...or something like that

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Dave,

There appear to be some idiosyncrasies with the HD 550 studs and the 650 engine.  You need to use 10 shorts instead of 6/6 with the 550, and the long ones do not seem to be long enough.  I am looking into turning down some 750 long studs, if the 550 long studs are not long enough.  If that doesn't work I managed to find some long NOS 650 cylinder bolts.  Let me know if you get hung up on this when you get to this stage.   

Don

[DaveBarbier]

Dave,

There appear to be some idiosyncrasies with the HD 550 studs and the 650 engine.  You need to use 10 shorts instead of 6/6 with the 550, and the long ones do not seem to be long enough.  I am looking into turning down some 750 long studs, if the 550 long studs are not long enough.  If that doesn't work I managed to find some long NOS 650 cylinder bolts.  Let me know if you get hung up on this when you get to this stage.   

Don

Damn, yeah I'll let you know when I'm there. I'd rather not use bolts, for some reason it seems like that's asking for trouble. Thanks Don

Hmm, but maybe if I had to use bolts I could have the machine shop drill and tap larger holes and then use helicoils or some steel threaded insert. I just feel more comfortable threading and torquing down into steel rather than aluminum.

[DaveBarbier]

So I'm still having an issue with getting the right battery/starter cables. I have some really nice 6 AWG but it's too stiff to make the bends to the battery.

I do have some nice, super flexible 8 AWG wire, is that ok to run as the frame engine ground, battery to starter solenoid and solenoid to starter?

Or, do you guys have links to a good resource for super flexible 6 AWG wire by the foot?

[Restoration Fan]

Or, do you guys have links to a good resource for super flexible 6 AWG wire by the foot?

I believe AutoZone carries 6 AWG automotive wire. 

edited:
Hmmm....maybe not.  Their web site shows nothing below 10 gauge but I could swear I've seen 6 gauge at my local store.  Perhaps I was dreaming.

[DaveBarbier]

Yeah, I looked at my local advance auto (pretty much the same in my opinion) and they have battery cable but it stiff, fairly poor quality stuff.

[oldhatt45]

Dave,

Have you tried a Marine Store, perhaps like West Marine?
http://www.westmarine.com/battery-cable?page=2&q=

If I recall correctly, Marine wire is pretty flexible.

Hope this helps,

Charlie