Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[DaveBarbier]

Not big enough for a grommet in the hole?

None that I have, no. It's about a 5mm hole. A regular grommet would have been nicer but I didn't feel like trying to find one at the hardware store. Laziness is the mother of invention...or something like that

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Dave,

There appear to be some idiosyncrasies with the HD 550 studs and the 650 engine.  You need to use 10 shorts instead of 6/6 with the 550, and the long ones do not seem to be long enough.  I am looking into turning down some 750 long studs, if the 550 long studs are not long enough.  If that doesn't work I managed to find some long NOS 650 cylinder bolts.  Let me know if you get hung up on this when you get to this stage.   

Don

[DaveBarbier]

Dave,

There appear to be some idiosyncrasies with the HD 550 studs and the 650 engine.  You need to use 10 shorts instead of 6/6 with the 550, and the long ones do not seem to be long enough.  I am looking into turning down some 750 long studs, if the 550 long studs are not long enough.  If that doesn't work I managed to find some long NOS 650 cylinder bolts.  Let me know if you get hung up on this when you get to this stage.   

Don

Damn, yeah I'll let you know when I'm there. I'd rather not use bolts, for some reason it seems like that's asking for trouble. Thanks Don

Hmm, but maybe if I had to use bolts I could have the machine shop drill and tap larger holes and then use helicoils or some steel threaded insert. I just feel more comfortable threading and torquing down into steel rather than aluminum.

[DaveBarbier]

So I'm still having an issue with getting the right battery/starter cables. I have some really nice 6 AWG but it's too stiff to make the bends to the battery.

I do have some nice, super flexible 8 AWG wire, is that ok to run as the frame engine ground, battery to starter solenoid and solenoid to starter?

Or, do you guys have links to a good resource for super flexible 6 AWG wire by the foot?

[Restoration Fan]

Or, do you guys have links to a good resource for super flexible 6 AWG wire by the foot?

I believe AutoZone carries 6 AWG automotive wire. 

edited:
Hmmm....maybe not.  Their web site shows nothing below 10 gauge but I could swear I've seen 6 gauge at my local store.  Perhaps I was dreaming.

[DaveBarbier]

Yeah, I looked at my local advance auto (pretty much the same in my opinion) and they have battery cable but it stiff, fairly poor quality stuff.

[oldhatt45]

Dave,

Have you tried a Marine Store, perhaps like West Marine?
http://www.westmarine.com/battery-cable?page=2&q=

If I recall correctly, Marine wire is pretty flexible.

Hope this helps,

Charlie

[madmtnmotors]

http://bfy.tw/1ey4


As mentioned, marine grade might be a good choice (4th on the list in the link above):

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Marine-Grade-Wire-ndash-Gauge/700341.uts?productVariantId=1196763&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=39-76349772-2&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=00013183&rid=20

The finer the copper strands, the more flexible the wire. The more strands that are used increase the "effective" gauge of the wire and can actually reduce the overall diameter of the wire as the strand count (and price) increases.

[DaveBarbier]

http://bfy.tw/1ey4


As mentioned, marine grade might be a good choice (4th on the list in the link above):

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Marine-Grade-Wire-ndash-Gauge/700341.uts?productVariantId=1196763&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=39-76349772-2&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=00013183&rid=20

The finer the copper strands, the more flexible the wire. The more strands that are used increase the "effective" gauge of the wire and can actually reduce the overall diameter of the wire as the strand count (and price) increases.

Haha, the old LMGTFY. I HAVE looked, but it's hard to know what people mean by flexible. I have 6 AWG marine grade wire that was advertised as super flexible. It's just not flexible enough

This is the kind of flexibility I need.
You can see it at the 40 second mark.

They sell them only as 2' lengths. I put an email into them to see if they sell longer length, though.

Thanks for the links, both of you. I'm checking them out now.

[DaveBarbier]

Just want to give props to the double crimp tool. This thing is amazing. Works on tiny wire and big wire and also groups of tiny wire (picture of three small wires). Makes things so clean and it's quick to use.



In case anyone doesn't know where to get one: http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

[Restoration Fan]

Which model of the tool did you buy, Dave?

[DaveBarbier]

Which model of the tool did you buy, Dave?

Good question, I have no idea. It's the one in the link I added in my previous post. Which ever that model is, that's the one I have.

Only gripe: I wish the ratchet release had a lever that I could push so I could open the jaws without having to completely close the crimper. Do you have one?

[madmtnmotors]

Just want to give props to the double crimp tool. This thing is amazing. Works on tiny wire and big wire and also groups of tiny wire (picture of three small wires). Makes things so clean and it's quick to use.



In case anyone doesn't know where to get one: http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

Right on! Using them just once is usually enough to make you appreciate their value. 
That blue and yellow wires are just a practice crimp, right? If you wire the blue and yellow from the ignition like that it might be hard to start!     

Only gripe: I wish the ratchet release had a lever that I could push so I could open the jaws without having to completely close the crimper. Do you have one?

The crimp tool from Vintage connections has a ratchet release. As for the one from cycleterminal, what is that little tab under the handle?

[DaveBarbier]

Just want to give props to the double crimp tool. This thing is amazing. Works on tiny wire and big wire and also groups of tiny wire (picture of three small wires). Makes things so clean and it's quick to use.



In case anyone doesn't know where to get one: http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

Right on! Using them just once is usually enough to make you appreciate their value. 
That blue and yellow wires are just a practice crimp, right? If you wire the blue and yellow from the ignition like that it might be hard to start!     

Yes, that would make it hard to start. Good thing this is the ground for my neutral and oil pressure indicator and backlight for speedo!

Only gripe: I wish the ratchet release had a lever that I could push so I could open the jaws without having to completely close the crimper. Do you have one?

The crimp tool from Vintage connections has a ratchet release. As for the one from cycleterminal, what is that little tab under the handle?

Yeah, this has the same kind of release. But since there no external lever or button or something, if the handle is squeezed...like half way...you can't get your finger in there to press it. Unless I'm totally missing something?

[calj737]

I thought we had a conversation about GROUND wire colors... 

And, the BLU/RED and GRN/RED are the GROUND wires for the OIL and NEU light! On your gauges, you need to supply power to those circuits and use the stock BL/R and Gr/R wires as the ground side-

[DaveBarbier]

I thought we had a conversation about GROUND wire colors... 

And, the BLU/RED and GRN/RED are the GROUND wires for the OIL and NEU light! On your gauges, you need to supply power to those circuits and use the stock BL/R and Gr/R wires as the ground side-

Oh, whoops, I misspoke. The wires in the picture are the ground for the high beam indicator, the signal indicator and back light. I've been looking at wires for hours on end so I got a little confused.

[DaveBarbier]

Got an electronics question for the savvy out there. I have aftermarket gauges and my LED high beam indicator is too bright. Not sure why they made it that way, but maybe I'm just sensitive.

Anyway, I found that if I use about 30k ohms resistance then the light is perfectly bright for me. To achieve that, I used three 10k .5 watt resistors. In doing my rewire I want to keep the brightness down but I'd rather use one resistor instead. I have a 33k resistor that appears to be .25 watt. Is there an issue with that wattage? I can't imagine the LED for the gauge indicators use a lot of power but I don't want to burn this little thing up.

[RAFster122s]

You would only see 4.363635 mW being used by the resistor if it were in the circuit alone. So, it would be safe to use the .25W resistor in series with the LED.
If you wanted it to be adjustable you could wire in a 33k ohm linear potentiometer. But, then you would need to make it watertight as water inside the pot would destroy it.
similar approach for bright days would be to have the LED switched on or off taking it out of the circuit during the day. If you hook it up and it is getting too hot to hold then it is likely drawing more current than expected and could need some special handling or a larger power rating.

Home Astronomers can use a simple resistor array with low wattage resistors to keep their optics fog free on humid damp nights by warming the mirrors and lenses.  They generally have multiple settings to vary the heat output.  Simple to make for those wanting to do so.

David

[DaveBarbier]

You would only see 4.363635 mW being used by the resistor if it were in the circuit alone. So, it would be safe to use the .25W resistor in series with the LED.
If you wanted it to be adjustable you could wire in a 33k ohm linear potentiometer. But, then you would need to make it watertight as water inside the pot would destroy it.
similar approach for bright days would be to have the LED switched on or off taking it out of the circuit during the day. If you hook it up and it is getting too hot to hold then it is likely drawing more current than expected and could need some special handling or a larger power rating.

Home Astronomers can use a simple resistor array with low wattage resistors to keep their optics fog free on humid damp nights by warming the mirrors and lenses.  They generally have multiple settings to vary the heat output.  Simple to make for those wanting to do so.

David

Thanks for the reply, Dave. That is the only thing in that circuit but it's tapped into the headlight high beam circuit. Not sure if that matters or not. If you care to see the wiring diagram I'm using its back a few posts. You can see how it's wired up.

Cool thing with the astronomers condensation reducing. My friend has a nice telescope so I'll pass that info along.

Thanks again!

[calj737]

The wires in the picture are the ground for the high beam indicator, the signal indicator and back light. I've been looking at wires for hours on end so I got a little confused.

I told you to use solid GREEN for all your ground so you wouldn't get confused! Using BL and Ayala as grounds will be very confusing down the road... 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The wires in the picture are the ground for the high beam indicator, the signal indicator and back light. I've been looking at wires for hours on end so I got a little confused.

I told you to use solid GREEN for all your ground so you wouldn't get confused! Using BL and Ayala as grounds will be very confusing down the road... 

Yeah, but blue and yellow together are GREEN.   

[DaveBarbier]

The wires in the picture are the ground for the high beam indicator, the signal indicator and back light. I've been looking at wires for hours on end so I got a little confused.

I told you to use solid GREEN for all your ground so you wouldn't get confused! Using BL and Ayala as grounds will be very confusing down the road... 

But those are the wires coming out of the aftermarket speedo. What do I need to do, open the gauge and hard wire in correct colors?! I'm not that anal!

I'm using the exact colors that are in my diagram. All grounds are green! (Except the above mentioned...and ground battery cable...that's black.)

[RAFster122s]

So I'm still having an issue with getting the right battery/starter cables. I have some really nice 6 AWG but it's too stiff to make the bends to the battery.

I do have some nice, super flexible 8 AWG wire, is that ok to run as the frame engine ground, battery to starter solenoid and solenoid to starter?

Or, do you guys have links to a good resource for super flexible 6 AWG wire by the foot?

I know where you can get silicone sheathed very high wire count and flexible wire, could you use multiple strands to essentially build an equivalent to a 8 AWG wire.
It will have the drawback of being thicker than equivalent because of the added insulation.

Just a thought if you wanted to go that route.

Essentially, a stranded wire is built this way. You would just need to build the equivalent with three strands of 12ga to exceed the circular cross section of an 8awg ga cable/wire. .  They could be stripped of insulation and built as a braided strand then shrinkwrapped. It would not be as flexible as just three strands crimped into a single terminal at each end.

[Retro Rocket]

The wires in the picture are the ground for the high beam indicator, the signal indicator and back light. I've been looking at wires for hours on end so I got a little confused.

I told you to use solid GREEN for all your ground so you wouldn't get confused! Using BL and Ayala as grounds will be very confusing down the road... 

Yeah, but blue and yellow together are GREEN.   

 

[RAFster122s]

Forgot to tell you the source for the silicone wire is a good hobby shop catering to RC cars or aircraft.  Theu commonly stock at least a 14ga silicone sheathed wire snd often have a 12 ga as well.  It is at least a 49 strand or higher count strand construction.  It could be a 60, I have not counted it but it is super flexible with a good silicon insulation.  Negative about the silicone wire insulation is it can be abraded very easily by vibration and sharp edges, so you must be certain it is protected.  They carry red. And black and will often have blue.
David